varaderoguy

The flap motor issue is a different problem and they do sadly go bad. It seems to be quite a common problem. Quite seperate from the Silica teabag / bag of doom issue.

It didn't effect that engine. You should be all good.

The TDI 2.0 180/190 engines do feel lovely and peppy. They are quick and if you find a VRS with 4x4, they are super grippy too. I can say that the TSI engines are also good and again it depends on how progressive you are. If you want out/out power, then the TSI's go the extra mile. If you want quick, lots of torque without the wheel scrabling action, then a TDI is just great. Echo @Ultrasonic about making sure they you use it on long journeys. They don't like short journeys.

The only other thing I can think of - is that the MAF sensor might be playing up and incorrectly detecting the Air / fuel ratio mix. However, if there was a problem here, I would expect a code or lean code.

Nope....ACT isn't the issue...and it's the technology built into the engine to drop cylinders when load is lower. Getting back to the misfire, obviously worrying. What manufacturer did you use for the sparkplugs and ignition coils? If it's not Bosch or Skoda OE, then that is a good first port of call. There are so many questionable parts out there and VAG csrs are picky about their parts! Please also check the earth contacts for the coils as they can break if put in incorrectly or overly tightened or are too loose. Also check for corrosion on the earthing points too. Are you getting any other ignition based faults or any timing faults?

Well, first things first. A scan is needed. If it is a problem then it will be recorded. Otherwise the only other thing I can think of is something to do with the ACT system bringing in the rest of the cylinders and there being a momentary lowing of revs to bring all the cylinder ignition timing into sync.

Stupid Q. Why did you sell it if you liked it so much? There are so many good upgrades for the MK3.

Don't write it off without trying it. The 1.0TSI engine is a rocking little unit and is IMHO far more peppy than the 1.2TSI. The 1.0TSI engine is configured for 115bhp, so should be perfectly able to take you and the family up the steep hills of Kent. P.S. recommend a manual 6 speed - the auto's aren't as good.

The only way you can get rid of Component Protection is if your previous version of code was 'modified' to ignore CP. It looks like the version of code you have now (0480) is the 'official' release and therefore its probably reading the status of the CP correctly now. You need to go to your local Skoda dealer - with proof of purchase of the MIB system - and get them to remove it using ODIS. VCDS/ODBEleven cannot remove this for you.

You could compromise and get an Octavia with a 1.0tsi engine. Frugal with practicality. Here is a super cheap high mileage on for sale:

Have you considered a Scala? Smaller than an Octavia...still with the 1.0TSI engine plus they are quite rare and I think look a little bit cool.

Did you check on the Insurance database to make sure it hasn't been involved in an accident (i.e. CAT S). Get a full finance and vehicle history check (I do this when I get a new-to-me car and its saved my bacon many times over). This could be the reason why you are being flatly refused cover. The other thing to consider is that Crim's love an Octavia VRS. They are the new Golf in terms of them being stolen to order. You might not be in a 'dodgy' area, but any location near a big city tends to attract the thieves. Sad reality.

The 1.2TSI engine isn't really that frugal as its quite an old design. We used to own one - you were lucky if on a run you got 45mpg. In town, I never got over 30mpg and if you run it on E10, your MPG will drop through the floor (because those engines never really like E10). You might want to look at a 1.0TSI 70bhp or 90bhp Fabia if the Octavia is too big. The three cylinder engines are far better around town and are Euro6 compliant.

Any third party accessories put into the car (such as dash-cam)?

Two things spring to mind: 1) Make sure you have the latest version of firmware for your MIB system. Earlier versions of MIB2 (SOP2.x, SOP3.x and SOP4.x) and MIB2.5 systems (SOP4.x) have buggy firmware that stop Android Auto from working properly. You share the same firmware as an Amunsden system. These can be upgraded by a (reasonable technical competant person). 2) You can make Android Auto work wirelessly, but you will need something like a AAWireless box to connect into your MIB USB connection. It works quite well, but only if you have the latest MIB firmware installed.

Then I suspect that the door latch actuator has a problem. You should also get an error on the CANBUS network if that is happening. Can you get us a VCDS/ODBEleven scan of the car please for us to comment/check?

You got lucky here, but its really worth investing in a ODBEleven system if you plan on keeping the car.

Let us know how you get on.

A scan of the car is needed as a first port of call. VCDS/ODBEleven. Any extended cranking times will throw a code and then we can help to narrow down the issue with you. Fuel pump pressure issues etc should all show up.

Its worth getting them to check the belt and the tensioner. If the tensioner is either fully extended or worn - or worst - partly disintegrated/broken, then this would also cause that kind of noise. As I said in my first post, getting a oil and filter service done is really important and then you can re-evaluate. If the noise goes away, you know to do more servicing, if it doesn't then its worth looking at the cam-belt.

Generally, Skoda only release map updates on their website - almost never firmware updates. I cannot see how a map update would bork your system. Maybe something more problematic. You might want to go and ask the folks in the Yeti section of Briskoda if they've seen this issue before - or in the Security, Electronics and Audio section.

I'm sure you will be good either way. There is a reason why the Brembo discs are more expensive - better quality materials that don't wear so badly, but it ultimately depends on your budget. Remember to change the pads to the same manufacturer at the same time and ideally do a brake service on the car (clean, lubricate slider pins etc).

A scan of the car would show if the aerial connection is compromised or not.

An oil change/filter should be done as soon as possible. It looks like you are on extended servicing schedule (I personally do not recommend this - the car should have an oil/filter every 10,000 miles/16,000 kms). It is particually important with the ACT cylinder drop technology engines that the oil is good and changed regularly. Take the car to an independant VAG specialist and get them to do a service for you. Even your local VW dealer can do it for you if you ask nicely (although it won't show up in your online service schedule)

Most of these things can be retrofitted for little cost. Sometimes, the umbrella lives in the side of the door. It really depends on the type of seats you have. Re: First Aid Kit. Best get this online - usually plenty of them on ebay. Re: tyre noise. The Golf's and Octavia's have a habit of throwing out their wheel alignment - its a VAG thing - so try to avoid potholes where possible. My first call would be to a 4-wheel alignment shop. Your car should have rear independant sub-frame, so all 4 wheel need the alignment doing. If you are still running around on the OE Dunlop Sport tyres, get rid as soon as possible. They are noisy, uncomfortable and frankly I don't rate them. 18" rims are no more noisy than 19" (I've got 18" on my L&K and they are sublime with the correct tyre - I run Goodyear Vector 4-seasons Gen3 tyres). If all season's aren't your thing or you don't need them, then go for Eagle F1 Asymmetric 6 tyres (assuming 225/40 R18Y)