varaderoguy

So - yes, number 3 plug has a special monitoring circuits in it - and is usually the first glow plug to fail. However, I would add that if one has failed, you need to replace all 4. VAG charge silly money for all of the glow plugs, but try and put it into context that these are genuine parts and you won't have to touch them again for another 100k miles.

If you think you have a fault, then please find somebody who has an ODBEleven unit or a VCDS unit - to get them to scan your car to see if there are any genuine faults. The internal lights are all monitored by CANBUS, so any issues will be flagged.

It will probably be an Amunsden unit - with or without Canton. Luckily they are the most common of the head units. £2400 is a lot of money and I am hopefully that your insurance will cover it. Take up @pab567 on his offer; he can provide a retrofitted unit.

I think if you press and hold SETUP, go to Version, it will give you the part number there.

OH NO....not Laura....junk it....don't use, its officially even more useless than the MK3's voice assistant!!!! Use Android Auto or Apple Carplay.

They've knocked one of the DIN connectors at the back of the MIB system.....you need 4 x radio keys to check the back of the MIB system to make sure all connectors are properly home. The cables are REALLY short, so they can be easily knocked.

Welcome - and you are now in the land of conjecture (because not many people have done this). If you get a ODBEleven Pro dongle, you can now jailbreak into the modules which will allow you to get into the configuration of the system. In theory, you should be able to enable up Skoda Surround (which will MASSIVELY) improve things, but I don't have a MK4 so I cannot comment.

I feel a whole other thread coming on - but MK3's are becoming SUPER desirable cars for the crims. The MK3 VRS's are becoming the Ford Sierra Cosworths of this decade. I know of about three folk in the UK who can re-code MIB systems. Luckily, if the OP flags this issue up to Skoda, then Skoda UK will flag it will Germany and if somebody trying to get CP removed via a dealer, it won't allow ODIS to do it. Luckily the MIB2.5 systems are a lot harder to jailbreak than the MIB1's, so there is hope. As to security, its Smart-water all the way......maybe a discussion to be had with them. UV on the hands of thief's is a good deterrent.

RIGHT - we need to tag @pab567 on this. @pablotatt - we need you to send your VIN over to pab567 to make him and others aware of this (for third party retrofitting) to make sure that this unit is not processed by him. I would also speak to Skoda Customer Services to ask them to put out an Service Bulletin to make sure that ALL skoda and VW dealers are aware. You also need to make sure that West Yorks Police flag it as stolen (not your car, but the MIB system). Did you have an Columbus or Amunsden system? I will also flag this thread - and ask the moderators to flag it STOLEN at the top of the MK3 Octavia thread and also the MIB/Skoda Infortainment sections.

There is a TPI associated with creaking strut tops. Usually associated with TDI's but it has been known on TSI engines too. Speak to your local - decent - Skoda dealer [not Hasledons in Doncaster] or as you are in South Yorkshire, go and have a chat with Darkside Developments as they maybe able to assist.

Agree with @KenONeill the AC cannot recool its own intake on recycle otherwise you would be freezing on the condenser and everything would stop. That's why the AC clicks out at that point. Climatronic is quite clever in that sense.

Okay, so you have a 2014-2017 car with Xenon or Bi-Xenon headlights. I would go with the most expensive ones you can afford. The Philips Activision lamps are usually excellent. https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-xenon-x-treme-vision-gen2-d3s-single

The ebay specials are okay....one piece of chinese electronics that haven't broken in my experience! However, if you want decent units, then it is worth going to Kopacek / SuperSkoda and getting their clear len units. Don't get the dark len units as you cannot see the repeaters at all.

I don't the traffic laws are in Palestine, but it looks very dodgy. I would suggest that what has been shown is result of a miscode (when you tell a certain module - in this case, the LED lights for the number plate) to flash when the indicators flash. [ask me know how I know you can do this - I accidentally coded a client's left indicators to flash right and vice-versa.....I DID have a moment of WTF...) Sorry, that looks properly horrible. I personally won't tell you if I knew how to do it.

I would suggest you go and spend 7 euros at Skoda erwin and look up the part number yourself..... https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz

What my learned friend really means is that to assist, we will need your Vehicle year, Engine Type code and ideally the VIN number from your car, so we can proper the best result for your car as they will be different options depending . Please remember this is an enthusiast forum and a number of us also have full time roles, so the answer may not be immediate.

That's good news. Not all models had the battery control module from 2013, but it good to see those who do. MY2015 introduced it across the range. You might not have had the monitoring circuitry from the off which required the serial monitoring from day 1 hence my earlier comments.

Okay - think it is worth some more info here. If your MK3 is between 2013 and early 2015, then you DON'T need to code in your battery. It was only from 2014/15 (MY14/MY15 build) onwards then you need your battery coded in. Generally, go for a decent VARTA battery (EFM/AGM) - with a BEM code on it. Most Halfords WON'T stock this as standard. They do list a AGM battery - https://www.halfords.com/motoring/batteries/car-batteries/halfords--096agm-start%2Fstop-agm-12v-car-battery-5-year-guarantee-548638.html, but that won't work with every Octavia.

What will happen is that you will get an error code that the Actuator is unable to reset itself to zero position. Its not usually the actuator that fails, its the veins that stop the actuator from moving. The other thing that will help - will be good quality oil, which helps the engine, which improves the burn cycle. When you start use the above stuff, it will dump a load of soot and dirt into the oil, so regular oil changes are really important [between 8-10k miles]. Make sure you use good branded 504/507 rated oil. Diesel basically comes in one form; that conforms to British Standards. The supermarkets don't put any additive into their fuels, which allows them to make it cheaper. Brands [Esso/Texaco etc] do put in cetane improver, but only a little [which should be enough]. Shell are the exception in so much they make their own fuel's. Super Diesel is basically diesel with lots of cetane in it. Diesel fuel has got worse over the years due to sulphur removal and this has removed a lot of cetane which helps the burn process. All this means that the cars end up sooting up far easier than they used to if you are a gentle driver. Putting a cetane improver into a car (be careful how much you use otherwise you will trigger a NO sensor failure on VAG cars) will improve the burn cycle, keep the EGR cleaner and help remove soot and gunk from the turbos.

I think you will find that getting rid of the standard Bridgestone tyres and going to Michelin Pilot Sport will make a MASSIVE difference for you. The Bridgestone seriously upset the handling - they are useless. They are noisy too. Stupid first question, do you have anything in your driver's side door pocket?? If its metal, you will need to put some rubber padding in the bottom of the door pocket.

Agreed - the pump is faulty. You will have to remove the front bumper to get to the washer bottle and replace the pump. You might be able to get to it underneath - remove the undertray and the pump will should be visible.

The veins are gummed up.....you will eventually get a failed veins. The fuel cleaner/improver needs to clean the EGR and Turbo veins as a whole. Put it into the turbo directly will only fix the issue temporarily. Two ways forward: 1) Take the turbo actuator apart and clean it with lots of brake cleaner. 2) Continuously run the fuel improver through for each tankful and eventually it will clean it up the mechanism. The actuator should return to closed when it is not being used; I suspect the actuator is not the fault here - it will be the veins.

It sounds like the veins are sticking. Try lubricating the actuator first....this won't work unless the engine is running. Try putting through some EGR cleaner through the car. My personal recommendation is https://www.hydra-int.com/diesel-power-blast.html; then try taking the car for a fast progressive journey for about 50 odd miles.

Have you had a HALDEX oil change recently? If so, somebody has filled the Diff with Haldex oil.

Its not hard to do; for reference, this is the link from Ross-tech on how to do it - instructions can be used with VCDS and ODBEleven PRO. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Battery_Replacement