Monkhai

But only the 2020 onwards mk4. The mk3 actually comes up very well and all the other vw group cars on the same platform seem to have the similar scores. Suggests some bugs in a new platform which may or may not have been ironed out.

Frankly contactless should be cheapest as they don’t have to maintain an app and overheads. it is also the simplest and most reliable option. just my 2p worth.

Sadly when modified it can be a pain as it could be so many possibilities around bits being fitted incorrectly. Coilover wise I would just buy new top mounts, spring, bump stops and something like bilstein b4 shocks. Essentially take it back to brand new OEM spec and check the wishbone bushes etc too. You will save a chunk on insurance and a chunk on physio. 😂 once off you can probably get a reasonable amount for a coil over kit for the Passat on eBay or similar.

Isn’t this already covered here?

This is in a Passat? Sounds like oil build up, have you checked and cleaned the EGR and the intercooler pipe work? If it really is white not blue the check the coolant and make sure you’re not losing any into the cylinders? The PCV is valid too as if not functional can cause oil to end up where it shouldn’t.

On a damp day with salted roads and a bit of spray I could easily go through 3-4L when driving. Estate wise… get the mud flaps, they hugely reduced the rear window spray IMHO. Also make sure the wiper blades are in good nick particularly the rear as it can be a bit harder to find outside of dealerships. Also worth a check for the silica bag in the coolant and its condition. There is a thread on here as that can lead to expensive repairs. Change the air and pollen filters if they have not been done in the last 12-24 months and if you have hit 80k+ do the fuel filter. All give a reasonable improvement in MPG bar the cabin/pollen filter which just makes the AC work better and keep musty smells away. Finally the drivers seat took me a while to get just right. I spent the first few journeys constantly adjusting. Enjoy the car. 👍

The 2.0 tdi is a particularly adept motorway cruiser as you just get up to 6th and go. Efficient too on a good run. I used to regularly do in the region of 250-400 a day and I’d say it was great. Make sure your tyres are up to correct pressures when cold as it makes everything better. Also worth making sure your screen wash is full plus you have some concentrate to make up another 3-5L. The headlight washers drink the stuff

South or west facing with a small solar panel and most the battery camera don’t need manual charges.

New front motor inverter for AWD versions in some and coming soon in other E GMP cars. Should increase range by 5%

The service schedule is quite long on the filters something in the region of 60-80k miles IIRC. As such they genuinely might not have been done, particularly the fuel filter. Depending on how comfortable you are the air filter is an easy DIY and fuel filter is down to your comfort levels. They can really cause issues when they get old/dirty. If you have a smart battery charger, I’d try that first as a car can go mad when batteries reach end of life. It may not be these but it won’t hurt if not recently done and the battery is a simple thing to rule out. Flat batteries can leave you chasing lots of ghost errors whilst the car still runs.

Try a new fuel filter and air filter as a cheap starting place? Also try charging the car battery to full on a smart charger. Is it the original battery as a low battery can cause a multitude of sensors to play up.

The OP has clearly asked not to fill the thread with random media from the internet. As such users just posting up videos consider this as a sign to stop. If you want to put a reply and contribute to the interaction on the thread, then by all means do. If you just want to spam threads with videos or links for no reason then don’t. This is the second time this has been dealt with and if there is a third then I will apply appropriate sanctions to the user/users in question.

Moved the thread to the Octavia section of the forum 👍

It is the aux or alternator belt. It has to come off anyway, so why put the one back when £10-20 of parts for a new one means that’s done at the same time. Doing both is good advice as the cost is pretty much parts only. As already requested by John, keep it civil. Just think how you would respond if someone replied to you how you are about to reply before you post!

The i6 is interesting and aimed a bit more at the motorway miles types. Official range is better than i5 but not much better than the ev6 when you compare AWD versions. For example I believe to get 385 miles the car needs RWD, 18” wheels and digital mirrors. What will be interesting will be to see how the real world motorway at 70miles compare. The aero should really help here. I’ve gone Kia, but I am looking forward to an a6 avant etron in the future.

@Blueallblueno9 Play nice, people are only trying to help. Forum rules are quite clear on this subject.

Octavia 4 questions moved here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510136-service-and-questions-for-new-owner/

You will need to determine if it has damaged the wires from the sensor and repair them. If you’re unsure of how, I’d suggest a trip to a independent garage, but others on here may be willing to give more detailed guidance.

But what’s the price?…

Are you trying to have the company pay for an electric “fuel card” then have them charged the miles? I can see this causing a few headaches as on the one hand it’s Xp per mile, but on the other the staff member is paying for the fuel. Would it not be easier to flip the fuelling so the user pays all and you pay Xp per mile to them at the govt fuel allowance rate?

Bypassing the security is not something anyone wants discussing publicly.

I would suggest you need to speak to a local professional. As such tools can easily be abused we won’t be linking to any on the site. Winding forward shouldn’t be hard, winding back harder, especially as the mileage is stored in more than one place.

Is your car one with beam or IRS? If it’s independent rear, I wonder if the suspension from a 4x4 or scout would fit? Worth asking a garage. As for London speed humps, some are horrible , requiring you to virtually stop and crawl over them even though there’s a 20 or 30mph limit not 5mph!

Between 18” summer and 16” winters is a big difference in comfort in favour of the 16” with higher sidewalls. The 18” feels better handling/grip on decent roads in the summer, but when the roads get bad it’s no longer the case. The 18 tramline more on worn motorway lanes too. I like the 205/55/r16, but if I wanted bigger I’d stop at 17 myself. FWIW 16” 205/55/r16 are way cheaper than both the 17 and 18” tyres too. The outer diameter of the stock 16/17/18 inch combinations are virtually the same to keep the speedo accurate. Springs do sag a little after a hard life, perhaps a new set of springs and bump stops + dampers if you’re so inclined would be money better spent?

Have you considered a stick on heater pad and tracer wires for the tank and pipes?