skomaz

Might do - I had similar codes and limp mode on a Civic Diesel I had a number of years ago that I could never seem to get to the bottom of, assuming it was a MAF sensor issue - until I found that someone had failed to replace the air filter when it was serviced and hence it had been in there a long time - a new filter and no more codes!

Thanks @mac11irl . The one I'm looking at is a 1.0 MPI. I test drive another a week or so ago and just can't remember if that sounded the same but the car pulled well for 60bhp so maybe it's just the way it is. I did sneak a quick DTC check and nothing concerning c. came up. I also drove it round the block again after I posted and didn't really hear the wheeze so maybe it's my ears... If we do buy it I'll go on a hunt as my daughter's pretty keen on it... And if it needs a service, cambelt and check over it won't be the end of the world.

Probably one for the likes of @mac11irl here but... I've been looking at and test driving a 2017 Citigo Colour for my daughter. It looks to be in decent condition apart from the off scrape of paint in the boot and a couple. It needs a couple of front tyres and two wheels tidying a little but one concern I have is that it almost sounds a little wheezy with an open throttle, as if there is a slight intake leak somewhere but I cant find it if there is. Is that normal? And is there anything else I should be looking out for - eg what is the cambelt change interval? Cheers

If you can find a 35w kit with metal base burners and small slim ballasts and it will all fit inside the headlight unit. You'll then need to code the lights in the bcm as xenon without shutters.

Are the projector lenses clan. If so they can have HIDs fitted which significantly improves things and will pass an MOT

Looking at that connector I'd try pushing the blue plastic element across towards the cable then pull off

Blmey... Noticed I've still got these... Someone must want them???

I actually don't think that's correct - it's more a case of catering and protecting the lowest common denominator - namely kids or those eligible for Darwin Awards that would pull the plug and stick their tongue on it to see if it was working (and lets face it there are A LOT of those sorts of idiots around. And this ^^ is the solution to the aforementioned issue - it's easy to do by simple replacement of an existing 3-pin outlet with a bespoke socket on each ring main and a corresponding shielded and fused plug on the inverter - just as we have on EVs. Cost would be minimal, as per the cost of a replacement 3-pin outlet (a couple of quid these days), and it resolves the issues of potential electrocution in the event of the plug being removed with the inverter still 'live'. I really don't see what the issue is and why this cannot be incorporated into any legislation that comes forward allowing plug in solar to be made legal - it's not rocket science just common sense (but then a lot of politicians and others wanting it allowed clearly don't have that!).

Check also the studs for the boot struts and the bonding of the window to the frame of the hatch, especially at the top.

So a hybrid with a 'small' battery charging at night on a cheaper tariff wont be making a £200 odd difference a month... Maybe few quid according to the figures you keep telling us? So as previously stated... the heat pump is bloody expensive to run. End of story...

Eh??? You keep telling us EVs are dirt cheap to run... And if he's working from home a lot he surely wouldn't be paying a couple of hundred a month on fuel for ICE cars. So basically Heat Pumps are bloody expensive to run is what you're saying.

Jeez... That's mental for a system purposely designed for a heat pump... I'm similar (5 bed detached built 1958, with house occupied all day and me often WFH) and my combined gas and electric is £230 a month tops.

Personally I wouldn't bother... They are less 'stealable' and there is more chance of something aftermarket messing with the OE electronics. If you want something extra get something physical like a steering wheel lock or similar (chain and a padlock through the wheel and round the seat runners was recommended by ex-police friends) and get a cover or similar for the OBD port which can be reached from a broken window. Other than that keys in a faraday pouch / case when at home.

Is there water on the seal at the base of the opening for the rear hatch or inside the hatch behind the teim? If so the culprit could be the rubber grommet that goes round the wiper shaft and seals against the glass. That was what the issue was with our Octavia and Kodiaq

If they are the same as the ones in our old Fabia estate then if I remember correctly they are held in place in the metal holder in the roof lining by a spring loaded tab and once you've levered them out a bit from the metal holdér you can just about access the tab with a thin screwdriver and push it towards the light to help release them as sometimes the tab gets stuck behind the metal holder. Also re bulbs try the flat one sided 'cob' bulbs rather than cylindrical ones... Auxito are a good make in my experience.

I went for 5mm wide x 500mm long 110lm/m 12w/m led strip. So it'll be about 6w 'extra' over the existing rwo w5w bulbs.

Tried to take some pictures for you...

The LED strip came with short wire attached so I fitted the male side of a 12v battery connector to them and then fitted the female side to a length of bellwire that then feeds across to the side panel. This means that when the load cover is removed I don't have bare 12v terminals loose in the boot that could cause a short circuit. The bellwire was then fed behind the side panel to the existing light. The connector had a clip on it to stop it coming undone but I cut that off so it just pulls apart if needed, or if I forget to undo it when I take the load cover out. I just put a bit of velcro on it to hold it in place and stop it rattling. The bellwire is just connected to the original light just by baring some of the wire and wrapping it round the connecting tabs of the light fitting such that they make a good contact but are separated from each other and don't short each other out. It's been in for about 18 months or so with no issues.

As above, if you have an ELM327 obd connector you can probably check and change it with Car Scanner app on your phone. If not ask the garage that does the MOT to do it for you as they will probably have the right kit to be able to.

Are you sure the original battery is AGM... They are usually quite expensive and not normally used a original equipment. I'd therefore guess the existing one, if the car has stop-start, will be EFB already.

Our Kodiaq was similarly afflicted. So I bought a length of self adhesive 12v led strip and stuck it to the underside of the fixed bit of the pull out load cover, fitted a small push battery connector to it (the sort you get for toy cars) then rigged up a wire through a small hole where the load cover fits into the side panel to connect to the existing boot light. It work perfectly with no fault codes and is much much brighter. It's easy to do, removable and the led strips can be stuck pretty much anywhere... I just chose where I did as it seemed the most sensible but they could easily go on the side panels.

To me, given the description and the errors you quote I think it's not actually a gearbox or clutch issue but actually a brake sensor or hub bearing issue... Especially at that mileage.

God that's awful...

Decathlon used to do a waterproof spray grease for bike chain that I've found to be pretty good in exposed situations. Might be worth a look.

Oh dear... There you go again... On about sheer speed off the line in a childlike 'mines bigger than youts' way. Driving enjoyment for most people who enjoy driving is about more than just speed off the line and 0-60. Which is largely irrelevant, albeit fun for a few goes.