skomaz

Not misguided here... We've had an Octavia II 4x4 and now a Kodiaq 4x4 and always knew how it worked from day one... It's a great system. However you are slightly incorrect as with the newer versions of Haldex in the Kodiaq and other vehicles there is always some engagement of power to the rear wheels, but at a low percentage. Also the drive to the rear on the newer versions is to some degree predictive and will engage based on a variety of factors such as throttle position and steering angle etc.

I'm pretty certain you can't save those settings... From memory the EU mandated they 'reset' each time. The car is switched off and on.

@eddie2 The Climatronic in our 2007 Octavia II 4x4 didn't have a separate resistor pack like our Fabia did - as @Breezy_Pete has said it was solid state powered. I know as I removed it to fix it after it seized like yours. I'd therefore expect yours to be too and the information you have been given about a resistor pack being present and faulty to be false. As I mentioned - get under the passenger side of the dashboard and take a look at removing it and freeing the bearing up - it's one connector, a couple of screws and a bayonet type fitment. The bronze bearing can be accessed to oil it and free it up by removing the large rubber 'cover' on its base.

Take the fan out and give the bearing a dose of light oil... Chances are its just seized up.

TBH this is probably more of a battery issue than a car issue. We've always had warnings in our Kodiaq so I suspect it's the batteries that, instead of losing voltage gradually so that the car can detect a low battery, they just suddenly drop voltage very quickly. Some do some don't and there is no rhyme or reason and even 'good' brands can suffer but I've never had issues with cheap cr2032s off eBay.

There'll be a sticker on the slam panel under the bonnet but it'll be R1234YF

We had the Fabia done after about 8nor 9 years, the Octavia done after about 9nyears and I've just done ethe Kodiaq at 8 years... All due to reduced cooling rather than anything else

If it's in full sun it may be that it's too hot.. I've seen similar displays go black in direct sun but come back ok when they cool down

Mine for comparison from a couple of weeks ago

Mx5??

Hopefully just a dead battery / alternator failure???

With JLRs recall problems over thier DC to DC converters and other electrical issues that insurance quote is probably a blessing in disguise

Just seen this thread but as per the post above I'm pretty certain that the steering weight can be set using a ELM327 dongle and Carista or Car Scanner app as it was an option present when I changed some settings on my Kodiaq

Could you have caught the gear switch with your elbow / clothing as you got in knocking it into D by accident and leading it to creep forward?

To me that sounds like a boost issue - try and check the hoses between the turbo and intercooler for splits or any traces of oil spray on nearby components that might help locate it.

As I say - your choice - but I've not yet seen any evidence of early failures at all. I generally keep my cars a long time (usually well over 100k miles - the last two have been 132k and 113k). I'm sure you are aware but a cambelt change on a TSI Petrol with ACT will not be far short of £1000 given the specialist nature of the kit required to re-time the cams, and other parts of the world haven't been reporting early failures within VAG's latest changed recommendation. On the other hand - what I have seen is reports of issues AFTER such cambelts have been changed... But as I noted - each to their own.

You both make fair comment and that's your choice as it's your car. However personal experience, and that of the rest of the world that has had similar regimes (the UK was the only country that didn't follow the VAG guidance for Thier technicians) suggests they can last much longer than 4 years or 100k miles and you would therefore be wasting money changing them. But as I said... Your car, your choice

They are belts but classed as 'lifetime' so are reinforced and stronger than normal as well as the engines having oval shaped cam gears to reduce load on them. From memory the service requirements are 240,000km / 150,000mls and then only 'inspect'.

I had Eagle F1s on a civic a while back and they were poor in the wet... The vredestein ultrac sessanta i replaced them with we're far better.

Had three since 2007 and four for a while but all different... As per signature with the Civic being the fourth for a quite a while after I got the Swift...

I'm sure youve said previously you had it in the Zoe or Scenic...

That'll be one person in this thread... 🤣

Surely it doesn't really matter either way if you treat zero as zero... Which is what most sensible people do

In general no... But what it is doing is reducing spend on other things that involve travel and is therefore indirectly reducing car use.

Rather than replace it you could just get a new leather cover for it to go over the top