Jump to content

Share your snow driving tips


corradoboy

Recommended Posts

But you will as they are FOG lights, the clue is in their name. :rolleyes:

WRONG !

The name is partly a convenient abbreviation. Yes, they are use in FOG, hence FOGlights. But they can be legitimately use in heavy spray and falling snow too, so they should really be called reduced visibility lights ! Doesn't roll of the tongue quite as easily though :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

WRONG !

The name is partly a convenient abbreviation. Yes, they are use in FOG, hence FOGlights. But they can be legitimately use in heavy spray and falling snow too, so they should really be called reduced visibility lights ! Doesn't roll of the tongue quite as easily though :P

They can legally be used in really heavy spray; they'll do burger all for improving your vision though, and that's why the lens from was developed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally keep all of your movements smooth and controlled. If you do begin to understeer or spin, don't panic - it's very likely you'll make things worse. Just try to keep your cool

That's the real key to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ignore the oft-quoted wisdom about pulling away in 2nd: people burn out the clutch trying. Use the right gear for the speed, use low revs, and be gentle and smooth with the clutch and throttle.

Like others have said the key tips are:

* Leave loads of space.

* Keep speed down.

* Drive very smoothly in the highest gear that is appropriate.

* avoid the brakes as much as possible.

* Look ahead a LONG way.

* Watch out for the idiots.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the OP (1) and (3) are total nonsense; smoothness is more important than using a high gear...

How right you are, I oversaw this when agreeing with corradoboy (who, however, by and large is correct in stressing smoothness and a general careful attitude). I even prefer a lower gear than usual in bad conditions, I always have the feeling that I have better control of the car that way. But of course one has to be gentle on the accelerator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But of course one has to be gentle on the accelerator.

That's where people fail.

Often it helps to not touch the accelerator *at all*. Even with a petrol if you feather the clutch in you can pull away with no throttle.

In addition to what I said above:

* Drive very smoothly in the highest gear that is appropriate.

If you are driving slowly down a hill, that appropriate gear might be 1st, with your feet off the pedals. Like someone has said elsewhere on Brisky, it's hill descent control on the cheap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Buy a 4x4,...............

Steve

yip its what i did lol big carpark 4x4 going around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around and around till you start feeling sick or dizzy:thumbup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. Work out routes which keep to the main and cleared road sections DOH !

2. Do not go any where near hills and valley bottoms if at all possible. Double DOH!

3. Park-up on the level, where possible.

4. Once you're rolling, even if its at snail's pace keep rolling at a constant rate.

5. Travelling on snow is like going off-road - follow all the rules that apply there.

6. In extremis, for low speed journeys only, reduce tyre pressure, slightly - as demonstrated by the Off-road Icelenaders featured on TG.

7. The slightest loss of grip when setting-off will cause the wheels to spin so:-

a). Carry a spade to cut back the snow to the road surface to get some grip - I've

already done this once today.

B). Pinch from her-in-doors or buy, a plastic squared draining board cover

(hardish PVC) from a hardware store to use as an anti-slip mat -

cheap as chips an expendable - done in the past.

c). Carry a tow rope.

8. In extremely cold weather conditions and the vehicle is ungaraged the locks/hinges/parking brake may freeze-up - buy a canister of lighter gas and do the necessary.

9. Make sure, before you set off, that the engine radiator grill and engine vents at the junction of the windscreen and bonnet are free of packed snow/frozen slabs - otherwise you'll end up with a boil up.

10. Similarly make sure that indicator and stop lights are clear of snow.

11. Carry a piece of cardboard in case you need to mask-off the radiator in really cold conditions.

12. If the vehicle is undercover/garaged employ a hurricane lamp to take the edge-off the air surrounding the vehicle for easier starting.

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Although reducing the tyre pressures might seem like a good idea the tyre has been tested to work best at that pressure and it is advised that it is kept at the manufacturers levels even when driving in snow.

And tips for driving larger vehicles??

I found flooring it helped when trying to set off in the bus... only way I could get the thing to move!

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Although reducing the tyre pressures might seem like a good idea the tyre has been tested to work best at that pressure and it is advised that it is kept at the manufacturers levels even when driving in snow.

Tire manufacturers don't recommend any specific tire pressure, only a maximum safe pressure. Car manufacturers recommendations are only a guide, as every tire will have its own characteristics such as stiffer sidewalls. The same tire can be used on a variety of vehicles and the recommended pressure is relative to the weight of the car it is fitted to. A BMW fitted with 225/40/16's may need 34psi as it weighs IRO 1300kg, whereas the same tire on a 500kg Ariel Atom may only need 18-22psi. Similarly each driver can adjust pressures to suit their driving style. Low pressure will give good grip but soften steering feel, high pressure feel precise and pointy but the car is more inclined to slide. When I drive RWD cars I often run the front 2lb under and the back 2lb over so I can easily provoke oversteer. My choice !

JCB's and tractors run around 6psi in their tires to aid traction on wet, muddy or snowy surfaces, and reducing a cars pressures similarly will increase grip for traction and steering. I would recommend no less than 10psi, but state that it is vital to reinflate to a normal pressure before driving any large distances or at high speed. For a few miles on a very isolated occasion you are not going to compromise the structural and safety integrity of a modern tire !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JCB's and tractors run around 6psi in their tires to aid traction on wet, muddy or snowy surfaces, and reducing a cars pressures similarly will increase grip for traction and steering. I would recommend no less than 10psi, but state that it is vital to reinflate to a normal pressure before driving any large distances or at high speed. For a few miles on a very isolated occasion you are not going to compromise the structural and safety integrity of a modern tire !

I'll remember that, if I'm ever fitting a car with super balloon bar-grip tyres and removing the suspension. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can't drive properly stay at home. I've had fwd, rwd and 4x4 and they are all no problem in snow. If its really slippy ie ice then nothing grips whatever is driven. The worst car I've ever driven in snow was an old style Mini - wheels too small just followed frozen ruts, sometimes straight into the nearest lorry park:thumbdwn: Mind you I hated the thing anyway;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im agreeing with the 'find a big open space and have some fun'

basically, if it looks too steep and you think your not gonna make it, dont try it. i was out lastnight around leeds and wakey and there wasnt a soul out. great fun:D handbrakes are a great thing. oh by the way skud, saw you on sunday night in wakefield. i was in a 330bm. had just been in sainsburys carpark having some 360 fun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

they just been doing a thing on sky news up at silverstone. one big tip even with abs brakes is to cadence braking (pumping the brakes) to slow the vehicle and have proved you will stop quicker than putting the brakes on and leave them on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

they just been doing a thing on sky news up at silverstone. one big tip even with abs brakes is to cadence braking (pumping the brakes) to slow the vehicle and have proved you will stop quicker than putting the brakes on and leave them on.

How does that do anything more than confuse the ABS electronics? I could see it working with the old purely mechanicial Dunlop Maxaret, but electronic ABS can cycle several times faster than you can move your foot.

Also, what were the conditions under-tyre? ABS is outperformed by locking the wheels in deep fresh snow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.