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Felicia Combi 1.3 - what oil?

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3 hours ago, mikefelicia said:

Sorry my posting said 15/40 it should have said Mannol 10/40 classic now were did I put my glasses.

They are on your forehead 😅😎

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  • Skoda factory recommended at that time (1994-2001) to use mineral engine oil 10W40 for petrol engines. Since the oil technology evolved a great deal, I invite everyone to use a semi-synthetic eng

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11 hours ago, mikefelicia said:

over the 25 years many of the leading makers of oil

Why worry about leading makers of oil, why not just use the very cheapest you can get, or buy at special offer times only.  Some makes are just labels anyway and an old 'name' (brand) can be owned by an entirely different company.  The safety data sheets sometimes give the game away.

 

A few years back some of the old farts that owned "classics" (and I can put that as I was one of them, but I actually used my overpriced, over-valued old cars called "classics") thought Duckhams Q was back from the past, but it wasn't it was just called and labelled that.

 

I done an engine oil (& filter) on my neighbour's car as it hadn't been done for many years and he'd certainly not notice any difference from me ding so and neither did I when driving it again.

 

I know a (self-trained) 'mechanic' that had a galactic mileage old Ford Orion that he used as a tow-vehicle and deliberately didn't change the oil to see how far it'd go before he absolutely had to do something, not in the 3 or so years I knew of it.

 

WooHoo. 🤩

 

 

 

The ENEOS 10W-40 sounds like a real Synthetic oil, no vibrations and no ''old tractor-cement mixer'' sound in idle.

PLUS in National Highway and in Mountain Roads broke all the fuel consumption records or previous oils (of course i didn't take measures from the miserable-useless 15W-50), photos soon.

5 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

the miserable-useless 15W-50

Just to remind you the 15w-50 you used wasn't a synthetic, IIRC (which I may not) you always seem happier using a synthetic oil (which is why I couldn't understand you going to the mineral as it would be an unfair comparison for you).

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Just to remind you the 15w-50 you used wasn't a synthetic, IIRC (which I may not) you always seem happier using a synthetic oil (which is why I couldn't understand you going to the mineral as it would be an unfair comparison for you).

 

 

They misinformed me on the one hand and scared me on the other.  It turned out that 15W-50 Mineral was a complete failure !  

When i put 10W-40 Synthetic and drove several kilometers to "burn" what was left of the old oil, then the motor changed its behavior.
The sound at idle, how quickly the engine warms up from a cold start and fuel consumption are important for me, if these are are not for 1-2 guys...i just don't care.
The ENEOS, although at high revs it was not like the Amsoil, on the other hand achieved a fuel consumption record and I have many photos as proof.

 

27 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Next try this maybe it will sound even better albeit for a limited time

 

Why don't you use 20W-60?

 

Excluding the multigrade range (and any VW numbers for you) here a good oil is a good oil and a better oil is better, how much better and how much you benefit can be variable and may be small steps - or nothing if you believe they're all the same or it doesn't matter on an old car - "you pays your money and you makes your choice".  If you use an appropriate oil to your conditions you won't go wrong, up to you what degrees of going right you want or need.

 

Not my car and whether it would fully suit all of your exacting requirements but given Thefeliciahacker experience I would still think about giving a (very?) good quality synthetic 15w-50 a try particularly out of winter.

 

50 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

kilometers to "burn" what was left of the old oil

Huh? 

 

50 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

20W-60

I've tried 20w50 it's perfectly fine for southern Greece 

47 minutes ago, nta16 said:

but given Thefeliciahacker experience

 

Stock car, he drives slowly, no rev up more than 3500, no Sport driving in Mountain Roads, no more speed than 120 km in Highway.

I was driving this way (in purpose) only till i reach the ''break-in'' (or ''bedding'' if i rememeber correct) period Km limit as the car was New and went for thw 1st service in the official delaer's repair-shop.

 

20 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Huh

 

When you change engine oil, coolant, transmission oil etc does not remain something inside?

Have you the capability to drain 100% the previous? NO.

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I've tried 20w50 it's perfectly fine for southern Greece

 

Me too in this.

 

1533.jpg&ImgWidth=226

 

 

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

something inside

Yeah but it mixes instantly 

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Stock car, he drives slowly, no rev up more than 3500, no Sport driving in Mountain Roads, no more speed than 120 km in Highway.

Exactly as the felicia is meant to be driven... That's why it's meant to have that oil, 

I dare you to post your MOT results to see whose engine is running better. 

I dare you! 

12 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Yeah but it mixes instantly 

 

If you have in your gas tank good gasoline but only few litres only and someone drops many litres gadoline with water when you start the car "instantly" the engine will start "cough"?

No, it will burn first the good gasoline in the lines and then the problems will start.

 

I have posted the MOT results for brakes-suspension and your "sticky" show up immediately (collusion).

Since you used twice the word "dare" ,tomorrow morning you will see my fuel consumption numbers and later at night the emission ones, would these enough for you?

12 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Exactly as the felicia is meant to be driven... That's why it's meant to have that oil, 

 

Take your car with 20W-50 ''old tractor sound" oil then, attached a accessoire like this

https://agraria.gr/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Φρέζα-–-Καλλιεργητής.jpg

or this

https://cdn7.regie-agricole.com/l86112968-1/zagroda-wiesenegge-8m.jpg

and make it more useful, that's it's meant to be used by you.

  • 4 months later...

Update:

 

Since this disastrous, crappy, useless oil removed

 

TOTAL-QUARTZ-15W-50-1La.png.68d61025407ca58bf26cdd64dc7c2f41.png

 

and since the Felicia isn't a vehicle like this to use 20W-50

 

1-816-600x501.jpg.27763784ef8593768f0dfb64fa25b7b5.jpg

 

 

i return to the 10W-40 Synthtetic, ENEOS now.

I have it only for 1500 Km, mainly hard City Traffic plus 2 trips with Mountain Roads and Highway and of course the results are FAR more better that the previous miserable oil but i haven't tested it yes in hard summer conditions with high temperatures that we have here.

The Fuel Consumption is FAR better compared to the 15W-50 (although the Synthetic 5W-40 beat it a little bit in City Traffic) so things are Ideal? Not so, i have faced something in Winter (had to do with the smoke from the exhaust) and i will explain it to you in the next post.

 

 

On 14/05/2024 at 12:27, D.FYLAKTOS said:

i have faced something in Winter (had to do with the smoke from the exhaust)

 

What i have noticed in the Winder and only with the ENEOS 10W-40 was that even when the car was hot (the thermostat was opened at 1st scale, the radiator fan had already began spinning or was ready to) and as i was in the traffic light (same route, same hour every day) i noticed from the mirror smoke coming from the exhaust.

Here is an example from other car, not too thick smoke but was present.

 

ScreenShot_20240522114911.png.64cd3ac9fdae85ec5ebe29b26d0d857b.png

 

 

Yes that's normal in Cold Starts in Winter and disappears after a while but in that case stayed more time than usual.

I have the suspicion that maybe was gasoline's fault, i was using from a specific gas station but due to a scandal here in GR with Xylene i stopped visit it.

No sign of that smoke in Spring so mustn't be the engine oil.

I have done from 2006 some experiments with additives in gasoline, you can still find them by Google search my nick name.

You are referring to original Xylene, as with alcohol there is the original (expensive) and the fake (very cheap).

One example are the "bomb drinks" that they serve in night-clubs.

  • 10 months later...

After a lot of searching, I think I found the best oil for the 1.3 Mpi.

Albeit very hard oil to get but worth it as you get both perfect cold start performance and high temp protection

IMG_20250326_104812.jpg

Base oil + additive package = oil in can/bottle/container.

And it's at a very low price compared to the ordinary Castrol oil that was originally recommended by VWŠkoda and used at Dealership in the UK for my wife's 2015 Fabia at £11.95 one litre (full price).

I have use in the past this:

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSBeZERn59Lg2ozMpK9MYo

Motul 300v Power Synthetic Car Oil 5W-40

100% synthetic racing engine oil based on ESTER Core technology Improves the performance of latest generation engines Resistance to time and high temperatures

The acoustic result from the engine was like rattle snake.

23 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Ester oil and High mileage oil match?

Its not full ester it has enough to help with VI noack and sealing.

Actually, its group III + group V. Quite good blend if you ask me

In comparison to Motul 15W50 which is group II + group III also heavy paraffinic

Edited by Thefeliciahacker

9 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Motul 300v Power Synthetic Car Oil 5W-40

100% synthetic racing engine oil based on ESTER Core technology Improves the performance of latest generation engines Resistance to time and high temperatures

The acoustic result from the engine was like rattle snake.

Has nothing to do with that
It's prohibitive to use oil below 10W on Felicia. I always try to source a lighter winter weight and a 50-weight hot oil.

And now I found it in a very, very premium flavor.

So really I think it's the most premium NON racing 10W50 on the market, not like you have a plethora of options or something

Edited by Thefeliciahacker

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