I know there has been a lot written about how crap the Furby brakes are. The upgrade options I understand are in order of costs:

1) Upgrade pads

2) Upgrade to larger disks and octy callipers

3) Go for a 4 pot full upgrade

I think 2 and 3 need 17" wheels

I was wondering what percentage increase each option gives you and the costs. I'm starting to think they need an upgrade I do love very good brakes.

Thanks

Graham

Only 3 needs bigger wheels, and depends on diameter of discs really.

Option 2 is your best bet, fits under std wheels and look almost factory. Find a set second hand and your laughing. I have fitted quite a few sets to the Fabia (did Walkie's today) so feel free to PM me for info if you cant find it on the site.

Budget around

cool Ross What type of increase in braking 20-30%???

I presume the pedal feels the same you just scrub the speed off quicker. I'm not sure if I like the soft pedal feel.

P.S I presume you have to know which year octy so you can chnage the pads?

Depends alot on what pads you use. John said on his the pedal travel has increased a little but brakes bits ALOT harder and give alot more feedback. Xavier has said much the same.

On Jims that I did today his pedal felt quite firm and even though he's bedding them in the potential is there for sure. He chose Green Stuff pads and EBC Turbo groove discs front and rear for his and DOT 5.1 Fluid, felt very good and looked superb.

Skoda should have fitted 312mm brakes std, end of.

Thanks Ross... Looks like a new year project

And 312mm brakes be it Audi S3, Audi TT, Leon Cupra, 4 motion Golf, or Octavia vRS all use the same pads.

Thanks Ross... Looks like a new year project

Hello mate, see your looking at the 312mm conversion, just give you my opinion. The travel in the pedal is the same, but you dont need to push down as much as it bites within about an inch, it is very progressive which is good, and if you hammer the pedal it is amazing, feels a lot safer and you can stop dead within yards of rounderbouts, junctions etc

heres a piccie, ill post some better ones in the day light

any more info you want, part no's of disks etc feel free to ask

Think I'll be dooing something with the brakes in the new year. Pads front and rear are starting to get a bit on the low side.

what DOT is the standard stuff, I thought it was all DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 these days?

Would it be worth getting some bradied hoses, had them on the clio and they made alot of difference.

I *think* the standard stuff is dot4. Super dot 4 is better, as is dot 5.1.

However, dot 5.1 isn't compatible with dot 4, so unless you do a complete brake purge, you can only upgrade to super dot 4.

I haven't had any problems with mine, and even with my fairly consistent stamping yesterday, I didn't experience any brake fade or excessive pedal travel.

Colin (Neo_vr) said he did manage to cook his though and he has the same setup as me - ds2500 pads on oem 312mm front discs with super dot 4 fluids.

I have some custom made pads arriving this weekend to be put on at 20K service.

Colin (Neo_vr) said he did manage to cook his though and he has the same setup as me - ds2500 pads on oem 312mm front discs with super dot 4 fluids.

True.... altho i was lapping you every 10 laps so i may have been a tiny bit more aggressive on brake usage... and i didnt spin my car either

Colin, was yours the one breaking very early for all the corners? MF*****?

Me I'll just settle for my standard(ish) brakes, seem to be more than adequate for my sedate style of driving

Re the original question, uprate the pads to DS2500 and put some Super DOT4 fluid in. Unless you are a maniac, you shouldn't fade them. More than adequate brakes for everyday use and the occassional trackday, in my very humble opinion

Colin' date=' was yours the one breaking very early for all the corners? MF*****?

Me I'll just settle for my standard(ish) brakes, seem to be more than adequate for my sedate style of driving

Re the original question, uprate the pads to DS2500 and put some Super DOT4 fluid in. Unless you are a maniac, you shouldn't fade them. More than adequate brakes for everyday use and the occassional trackday, in my very humble opinion[/quote']

nope... im a MA reg

tho i was braking relatively early for the hairpin later in the day as me pedal goes almost to the floor now (and this is WITH super dot 4 fluid + ds2500) :thumbdwn:

does that make me a mainiac?

Nope, it makes you a girl :P

I knew I kept seeing a Manc area registered car, couldn't remember if it was MF or MA.

Nope' date=' it makes you a girl :P

I knew I kept seeing a Manc area registered car, couldn't remember if it was MF or MA.[/quote']

lend me your slicks next time then

I really enjoyed myself.. apart from the brake problem.. and the naff tyres :(

My brakes have gone very soft today since yesterday's activities. Not sure why, cos the stopping power is still there, just takes more pedal travel and effort to produce it. Any ideas, experts?

My brakes have gone very soft today since yesterday's activities. Not sure why, cos the stopping power is still there, just takes more pedal travel and effort to produce it. Any ideas, experts?

Boiled fluid... same as my problem :(

So is it permanently damaged by the boiling then? Strange as it's Super Response and less than 6 months old - can't have much water in it yet, surely? :confused:

Still - easy enough to replace, if that's all it is ...

Unless you can't lock up your wheels with the standard set up, uprated discs and pads will not improve your stopping distances, just reduce fade. Tyres are the limiting factor.

Steve

Unless you can't lock up your wheels with the standard set up' date=' uprated discs and pads will not improve your stopping distances, just reduce fade. Tyres are the limiting factor.

Steve[/quote']

Interestingly my brakes cause less lockups since the upgrade (pads and fluid only) but feel much more progressive and reassuring.

Unless you can't lock up your wheels with the standard set up' date=' uprated discs and pads will not improve your stopping distances, just reduce fade. Tyres are the limiting factor.

Steve[/quote'] Perhaps so and maybe it's a placebo effect but I feel the car stops quicker on drilled&grooved + 2500's all round than the oem setup. This in my mind is the pad that makes the difference, the underlying discs and fluid do not effect this distance or speed of braking.

The fluid and discs however effect how much you can do before getting a fade in braking response. So couple it all togehter and you can quite happily go about heavy hard braking (say on a tackday or hard A road) for a great period of time where as a OEM setup will boil and fade after 4 or 5 laps, I may get 15-20 before noticing anything vaguely thought of as fade.

But yes unless your after stopping quickly; which is a worry as much as it is a benefit on the open road, pads and fluid should suffice then work up as needs dictate.

If had to choose one mod to my car and only one; it would be the brakes.

The major negative is the guy behind on the open road, many who follow me I feel in the standing on the anchors scenario, would just hit me and I know I would hit some other braking setups which in turn means I'm now leaving a far larger gap than ever where this tailgater situation arises.

So is it permanently damaged by the boiling then? Strange as it's Super Response and less than 6 months old - can't have much water in it yet' date=' surely? :confused:

Still - easy enough to replace, if that's all it is ...[/quote']

When fluid boils, it produces gas.. and gas, as you know is compressable alot more than fluid.

same theory with the water retention.. over time, the fluid will absorb water which lowers the boiling point. so its easier to get airbubbles in the brakelines.

ds2500 pads do run MUCH hotter than oem ones, and the vag 288/312 caliper isnt very well designed for heat transfer.

When fluid boils' date=' it produces gas.. and gas, as you know is compressable alot more than fluid.

same theory with the water retention.. over time, the fluid will absorb water which lowers the boiling point. so its easier to get airbubbles in the brakelines.

ds2500 pads do run MUCH hotter than oem ones, and the vag 288/312 caliper isnt very well designed for heat transfer.[/quote']

Yes but my points were:

1. Is the fluid permanantly damaged? If it's boiling and producing vapour, when it cools that vapour should be re-absorbed, so by today it should be back to normal, unless it's undergone some kind of molecular change.

2. The fluid is quite new so there shouldn't be much water in it.

Not sure how boiling water leads to air bubbles? :confused:

Anyway - first step will be to change the fluid. Thanks

Nope' date=' it makes you a girl :P

I knew I kept seeing a Manc area registered car, couldn't remember if it was MF or MA.[/quote']

Not BX..... then But I will admit I wasn't trying hard enough with the brakes.

I'm well impressed to how the 312mm (fitted by Ross ) stood upto the day. Not one hint of fade. Remeber the first session at Brunters last year, brakes lasted about 4 laps :thumbdwn: