looking good there Luca. I just did the B&Q vent on mine today as I had drilled like yours. I can honestly say that the difference in the size of the air flow path must be 20-1. I also gave it a clean out but really am waiting for Millsey to get things sorted as one SMIC would be cool for now . Was only thinking about a twin standard setup if this turned out to be no big improvement as they do go cheap on ebay sometimes. All we need to hear now are those famous words(cue cheesey gameshow music and annoying MC) "Come on Down - The Price Is Right" :D .

Just a quick point but how is it mounted?

thanks Karl, nice one on doing the vent, need to get my new vent mounted asap, did those as a quick measure before i drove to italy in june, i think it helped but as you said will not compare to a proper vent!

the smic mounts to the stock location so is as OE fit as possible, basically bolt off bolt on in minimal time with as little fabrication/modification to the car as possible. The plastic OE surround that vents air to smic from the front lower bumper intake will need cutting down but doesnt look hard to do so i will do this when i do the vent (and my brake pads) and take more pics accordingly!

Edited 15 August, 201015 yr by sweedish

Hi guys,

just a quick post as im jetting off to Canada in the morning.

So just to echo the thoughts on Lucas initial post, the upgrade went really well, everything went to plan (barring the weather ), and i was really pleased with Luas initial impression on the set up, i think the smile on his face when he first took it out pretty much summed up our day lol .

Anyways the data logging did'nt run as smoothly as anticipated, it was extreamely difficult to get the consisteny between the 2 tests (standard Vs upgrade), this was mainly due to the road conditions (traffic etc), there was initial temp decrease of 4-5 degrees C, I will publish the full data at a later date.

All though the temp decrease is respectable i feel i can get it down, my company is in the process in buying a new fin machine which will give me 17-18 fpi, I wont bore you by going into detail but i feel this fin will offer an even better improvement.

The better boost conditions described by Luca was due to the inner working on the IC, my company has invested alot of money into IC extruded tubes and the tube we are curently using is seen to be the best in the market as it gives excellent air flow but also has great cooling capacity.

So to summarise, the project was a great sucess, needs a litle tweeking but I think that its pretty much up there with the 'big boys', so to speak (not bragging or nothing lol), so its really up to you guys to give me some feedback regards were i go with this now.

My next project is to design an alternative 2 pass FMIC to the Forge one, but lets see how we get on with this one first.

Cheers guys

Well done to the person/s that have built this smic

I looked at an uprated smic for my Octy vRS, but at the time the only decent ones came from the USA...... and by the time you added shipping, import tax, duty etc it worked out no cheaper than a good quality fmic (which is what I fitted).

Just a couple of small points that may help you;

Dont paint the smic core and end tanks as it acts as an insulation and therfor reduces thermol efficiency.

The smic will need support brackets otherwise the inlet/outlet hoses will fail.

In order for this smic to work it is vital that the ambient air feed is modified to suit the new core and reinstated. And when modified the ambient air feed has to be of a reverse cone design ie small inlet, large outlet, which will create high pressure at the bumper inlet and low pressure at the smic core face which will help reduce reversion of the road draft air.

Bill.

Well done to the person/s that have built this smic

I looked at an uprated smic for my Octy vRS, but at the time the only decent ones came from the USA...... and by the time you added shipping, import tax, duty etc it worked out no cheaper than a good quality fmic (which is what I fitted).

Just a couple of small points that may help you;

Dont paint the smic core and end tanks as it acts as an insulation and therfor reduces thermol efficiency.

The smic will need support brackets otherwise the inlet/outlet hoses will fail.

In order for this smic to work it is vital that the ambient air feed is modified to suit the new core and reinstated. And when modified the ambient air feed has to be of a reverse cone design ie small inlet, large outlet, which will create high pressure at the bumper inlet and low pressure at the smic core face which will help reduce reversion of the road draft air.

Bill.

Cheers Bill ,

Have to say though mate, the reduction in thermal effiency is absolutely minimal when painted.

And regards the brackets, its actually bracketed off the initial mounting points, I literally had to line up the cooler and weld on the brackets when Luca arrived, I was working from snippets of information from Rob Clubley and other members on here, hence why it took so long.

So rest assure the unit is bracketed

Sounds pretty good so far guys.

Luca - I've forgotten what mods yours is running, what sort of power is the engine putting out at the moment? Stage 1 or Stage 2 remap (or standard?)

If this SMIC will happily cool the boost enough for a Stage 2 setup then I reckon 90% of the people on here will want one

Edited 15 August, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

I want one regardless What I like most of all is the ability to retain the stock look, which was why I was keen on getting a twin setup with some DIY pipework. This seems to be the way to go though, as Tom has said it is all about the core design. Tube and fin wins over bar and plate for efficiency so this project was well worth waiting for.

So then Tom. When will we be getting a price for 1 of these delivered? Before or after you visist Canada?

Karl

I want one regardless What I like most of all is the ability to retain the stock look, which was why I was keen on getting a twin setup with some DIY pipework. This seems to be the way to go though, as Tom has said it is all about the core design. Tube and fin wins over bar and plate for efficiency so this project was well worth waiting for.

So then Tom. When will we be getting a price for 1 of these delivered? Before or after you visist Canada?

Karl

Straight to the point Karl I like it lol, will be after my hol now mate, im only away for a week so dont have long to wait, when ill get back ill join the freedom membership and go from there.

stage 1 remap jamie, been spending all my time on supsension and braking :yes:

yes i think you are right, this could be a very good alternative and cant wait to see how it works when i finally get a new turbo on the car!

Will be keeping an eye on this for a finalised kit and details of necessary mods to make it work as I was thinking of getting a forge smic. Quick question on this, is it necessRy to remove the bumper to fit or can it be done by removing the wheel arch liner?

For venting the wheelarch liner, is there a replacement liner that will bolt straight in instead of cutting the standard one up?

Yes and No

Yes you need to remove to the bumper

4 bolts, and a few screws. Very easy.

No, there's no pre-venting wheel liners out there.

Again. It very easy to mod the existing bit of plastic.

on the arch liner I thought the S3 one was close but needs a small amount of trimming? the best vent I found is the one from a Hyundai Tucson, there is also a good one on the Fiat Brera I think it is? failing that the biggest one you can fit from a diy store, but use the plastic ones and cut notches out of it so it bends to the contours of the liner and rivet in place (or use small bolts) The metal ones dont flow as well either.

Edited 16 August, 201015 yr by karlbar2k

Ok, where are the bolts/screws that need to be removed? Does it involve removing the black strip on the bumper? Is there a guide anywhere?

I just wondered if there was as some other vag cars use them, sounds like a trip to the local Hyundai dealers is in order, or a word with my local spares shop.

I nearly got one from a breakers but as soon as they realised what it was for the price went up!!! guess he had a 1.8T himself???

to remove bumper

prise off corner of side moulding bump strip undo to 10mm (iirc) bolts either side

4 screws in wheel arech liner (bumper to liners)

3 screws when open bonnet and look down at top of bumper infront of rad and by bonnet release handle)

prise out side lower vents (left and right) they pull out towards you then undo 2 screws either side

finally under front bumper there are some screws going up holding shielding in place (mine only has a couple)

thats pretty much it

to change you will need access to the intercooler from side so bumper really needs to come off.

to remove bumper

prise off corner of side moulding bump strip undo to 10mm (iirc) bolts either side

4 screws in wheel arech liner (bumper to liners)

3 screws when open bonnet and look down at top of bumper infront of rad and by bonnet release handle)

prise out side lower vents (left and right) they pull out towards you then undo 2 screws either side

finally under front bumper there are some screws going up holding shielding in place (mine only has a couple)

thats pretty much it

to change you will need access to the intercooler from side so bumper really needs to come off.

I've had mine off about 8 times now getting my FMIC fitted - it's pretty easy to do.

What? get the bumper off or fit an Ebay FMIC

What? get the bumper off or fit an Ebay FMIC :giggle:

on the arch liner I thought the S3 one was close but needs a small amount of trimming?

I got a TT arch liner for mine and tried to fit the liner straight in but no way that was going to happen so ended up just cutting the vent section out then fitting it into the Octy liner. It's a lot of money to pay when you're only using a small bit of the arch liner though

Ok, where are the bolts/screws that need to be removed? Does it involve removing the black strip on the bumper? Is there a guide anywhere?

Guide on how to remove your SMIC to clean it here:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/115290-cleaning-intercooler-mk1-octavia-vrs/page__view__findpost__p__1448136

I got a TT arch liner for mine and tried to fit the liner straight in but no way that was going to happen so ended up just cutting the vent section out then fitting it into the Octy liner. It's a lot of money to pay when you're only using a small bit of the arch liner though

i think thats why looking for a vent from a diy store is a better idea, its a lot cheaper

Don't forget the tin of BBQ paint as well I used the "Plastikote" one to spray both sides so it is less noticable than a white vent

Ok, where are the bolts/screws that need to be removed? Does it involve removing the black strip on the bumper? Is there a guide anywhere?

I just wondered if there was as some other vag cars use them, sounds like a trip to the local Hyundai dealers is in order, or a word with my local spares shop.

Here is some info and pics for you:

You have 2 bolts either side of bumper underneath the plastic trim. Use small thin flat screwdriver to lift up trim, use a cloth to protect paintwork

The 3 screws on top of bumper

2 Bolt's behind the bumper grills (bumper grills just pull out)

2 screws underneath bumper(not all VRS have these)

and both of the wheel arch liners have screws hold to the bumper

I got a TT arch liner for mine and tried to fit the liner straight in but no way that was going to happen so ended up just cutting the vent section out then fitting it into the Octy liner. It's a lot of money to pay when you're only using a small bit of the arch liner though

I went with TT arch mod on mine too, though did mean cuttng the vent form TT arch liner as you mentioned, and as i wanted OEM look ended up sealing in place with black tiger seal and used a whole load of clamps to hold in place as the arch liner is curved. A lot of hasle but in the end i liked the result.

I also like the fact that the vent slat's s are pointing downwards so rain and road crap does not fill up the intercooler.

Although have FMIC so not much need for the arch mod now. Can swap with someone if they want this for a standard arch liner.

Millsey, I also have loads of pics of the Forge FMIC / pipework etc i installed if you need any or help in making up a FMIC alternative

Cheers for the link to the thread, guide and pics. I will get on to this tomorrow when I have picked up the new intercooler. If you want a standard wheel arch liner again I will swap with you, if your anywhere near me.