Photography Thread

[mrcrow]

WoW !!!  you are way ahead of me 

send some more shots as you do them

that is some lens...which camera? As if it should matter 

cheers

geof

[Xavier]

Body was my old Nikon D3s. Just because I have a RRS L bracket for it so quick and easy to fit on my tripod with arcaswiss jaws.

 

Great fun shooting sunset to night time where there is something like 15+ stops of light change.

This is by no means perfect, but gives an idea: 

 

[mrcrow]

19 hours ago, Xavier said:

Body was my old Nikon D3s. Just because I have a RRS L bracket for it so quick and easy to fit on my tripod with arcaswiss jaws.

 

Great fun shooting sunset to night time where there is something like 15+ stops of light change.

This is by no means perfect, but gives an idea: 

 

very charming...at first it seemed like no sunset...then there it was

good work

cheers

geof

[mrcrow]

20 hours ago, Xavier said:

I've found that up to 15 seconds, it's fine. From 30s onwards, you start to see trails when pixel peeping.

 

Lens is one of my favourites: 24mm f/1.4. cost me a small fortune but shallow DoF for journo style shooting or night scenes is brilliant.

 

I've also started to do some serious timelapse work with LRtimelapse. Awesome software and excellent usage of xmp sidecar files for transferring changes in and out of lightroom.

my film cameras...used for trannies... were nikkormat EL's...all mechanical except for the metering.. and took the AIs lenses...i had the old lenses as well where you set the limits of the aperture to co-ordinate with the metering system

i mention this because i bought all nikkor AIs lenses and had a set from 24 to 500 mirror

as you mentioned i had some which were really open...second hand and costly...looking through everything was so bright and clean and manual focusing...de rigeur in those days for real photographers...auto focus was coming in...1988 etc..and wasn't felt as being "pure" enough...was greatly assisted...

cheers

geof

 

 

[B33fy]

Great efforts xavier, might be worth giving hdr a go to get a similar effect with the forest and night sky.

 

Slight change of direction for me.. a rugby match, results poor to mediocre imo, though the bladdered players and manager were pleased with my efforts.. Free beer for more goes lol.

 

I’m changing my approach for the next game, will let you know if it works. A couple of images below..

 

 

[mrcrow]

like the colours..just enough red and green to sizzle the shots...and the sun..

is that your racing lens you were using...they are the type of shot usually on the sports pages

i score the first one the best...all the faces...except the defender...and the expressions tell a tale

from a nit picking point of view on that one i would have cropped out the flag and sign on the left..just that much

then the composition becomes more centred and the eye doesnt waste time going back and forth to those items

cheers

geof

Edited 2 October, 2018 by mrcrow

[B33fy]

Thanks Geof, quite like the first one myself, all eyeballing the deadman.. except the one eyed monster on the right. All with the pro lens.

 

All excited got a new toy arriving soon an upgraded body, 80d. 7fps along with faster focus. Fingers crossed it arrives before Saturday,.. off to Lydden to catch some racing.

 

[mrcrow]

https://i1c.adis.ws/i/canon/1263C044_EOS-80D-18-55-IS-STM_1/1263c044_eos-80d-18-55-is-stm_1.jpg?bg=white&fmt.options=interlaced

 

qw by mrcrow_uk, on Flickr

 

is this the one...that would suit me fine...although i am still learning the ropes with the G5 lumix

be good to see if you get some good shots with that...and you have the lens sorted out

i will be in ireland starting sunday next for a week...killarneys..o i may get a leprechaun shot or two..and kiss the blarney stone

definitely have a guinness or two...we were there a few years ago...tralee.. and although it rained it was a great holiday..

they knew we were coming because when we got to the ring of kerry there was a visitor map there with "you are here"

so they even knew the date and time...amazing..

ps dont fall out of the tree..

cheers

geof

[mrcrow]

hi B££fy..

i have been looking at the canon 7d and considering the 18-55 kit zoom

what i find is that there is a number of 18-55 lenses all canon at varying prices....second hand of course

i reckon its to do with the max aperture

what light can you throw on this...have you used one and what is the best aperture and model designation to go for

seems there are a lot of bodies going for sale...not the 7 mk2 though...

cheers

geof

[B33fy]

7d mkll is the top spec pro cropped sensor camera.. the one up from my new one.  Rumour has it it’s being replaced mid part of next year as it’s been around a bit. It’s missing a few key functions for me such as WiFi connection and nfc, for easy upload of images. In the field so to speak I connect an iPad to remote the camera when on a tripod. Helps with composition and bracketing etc. I also use it for uploading images to iPad and straight to the net or for viewing in the clubhouse!! I think the rear screen is fixed, I prefer a swivel screen for easy viewing. It isn’t touchscreen either, using a touchscreen it’s easier to access menus, camera setting etc. Low pixels as well in comparson with others with 20MP compared with 24MP not the end of the world that one lol.

 

I’m hanging on for it’s successor and might make the jump if Canon add all the bits missing as described. Don’t get me wrong it’s an excellent camera especially for sports/action stuff.. it’s just that I’m used to working with the aspectsit hasn’t got, both on my current camera and the new one. There may be cash back offers from Canon on the 7d.. worth checking.

 

I’m also sticking with a cropped sensor for now as this gives me a longer reach using EF lens which are normally used with full frame cameras.

 

Lens are a bit of a mine field though. Generally with lens the more you pay the better the quality.. There are some exceptions where some fanbois will rant on about the wonders of a £2 lens though few and far between. Lens seem to hold their value as they are not upgraded as frequently as camera bodies. Also with upgrades unless you are a pro, the differences are negligible. My motto is do it once do it right and go for the best you can stretch to. I’ve made a conscious decision to go for Canons top range pro   L series lens to get the quality and if I buy with some savvie minimise my losses if circumstances change and I need to part with the gear. Some say the canon Lens are over priced but Im happy to stick with the brand.

 

Differences in prices tend to mirror build quality plastic bodies etc, quality of glass, complexity, and aperture size. Also the auto focus system/motor used and on board image stabilisation. Cropped cameras use the EF-S range of lens and generally quality wise they are not quite as good as the full frame EF lens, though are cheaper.

 

Best bet is to decide what you want to photograph and go for lens sizes to suit working through recommendations and reviews.

 

It is a minefield, it’s taken me ages to work out canons range of cameras and options. Haven’t a clue with Nikon, though they tend to mirror cannons range as they are direct competitors. ( not much between them tbh)

 

Happy to offer my views advice etc, though it is just that I’m sure you will weigh it up for your self Geof, as I would feel awful if the bought the wrong thing for you based on my ramblings alone!

 

BTW just about to throw an advert out for my 760d and 18-200 lens, keep an eye out if it’s something that might interest you.. hard sell over lol

 

Oh nearly forgot.. enjoy Ireland know the area well father was from just over the next county in Newcastle West, Limerick.. great opportunities for landscapes coasts etc. Safe journeys Geof. 

Edited 2 October, 2018 by B33fy

[mrcrow]

@ B33fy

Thanks...that was quite a comprehensive bit of info on the canon stable...

the body i think i could afford...second hand is the EOS 7D which is around £330 without a lens..mpb.com where i just bought my lumix G5 from body only...but!! glad you mentioned it...it has a fixed back viewer which i cant use...not for tripod setups....a bendy rupert one is better..

your minefield simile is tending to set me against changing now and finding myself in a wilderness of lenses

...i think i will stick with M43 for now...as you can see i dont really see myself doing any photo-journalistic photo pics, and just busy myself with landscape and portraiture...all for phun..fotografy is phun..

.

the last time we  visited ireland we went to the irish stud farm and saw the skeleton of Arkle.

our visit to cobh is my second "visit" ...in 1948 my ship...the queen mary lay offshore to pick  up passengers on our way to new york..usa.. i was 5 and this was my first of 6 crossings of the north atlantic, uk to new york on various vessels including the ss united states twice ...blue riband winner for translantic crossing...and other cunarders...i ended this time of voyaging in 1956 when i was 13..in my homeland of scotland.

that may account for my entering marine engineering as an apprentice in a shipbuilding yard..1959.

ah the memories of it all an all....like the days of the kerry dancers ...gone but not forgotten.

cheers

geof

 

 

[fabdavrav]

55 minutes ago, mrcrow said:

@ B33fy

 

...i think i will stick with M43 for now...as you can see i dont really see myself doing any photo-journalistic photo pics, and just busy myself with landscape and portraiture...all for phun..fotografy is phun..

 

cheers

geof

 

 

 

I'll say it again...going for full frame or asp-c etc does not mean better pictures...the ones I posted on here were all taken with a Oly TG4 which is a very small sensor size..a rubbish 3 element lens...however it is a f2.0 & 16MP size..

 

But compered to a M4/3 16MP oly camera picture both at 100% pixel peeping you can tell the diff..& that's down to the lens..

 

more pixels means you can enlarge more (print bigger), & keep the same detail/res as for hand holding a 6x4 inch print.....which is 254 to 300dots of ink per inch...

 

The panos I posted earlier I have printed out at 254DPI & got a print 36inch across & very sharp & good.....& that's a down grade from the file as the file is 300ppi....but for biger you stand further away so you can print at lower dpi....bill boards are 50dpi approx...

 

All that I see most full frame die hards are going on about 24 to 42MP ...thats because they can stand far away from say an insect & crop the picture of a small insect with loads of background...right down to an insect filling the frame & still have say a 16MP dimensioned picture....with a smaller MP number (not sensor size)...you have to get closer or use a telephoto...to get the insect to fill the frame..

 

I have a nice new 20MP OMD EM1mk2...has it improved my photography??..No..made it worse as I am re-learning what this camera can do....the only reason I got it is because the glass (f2.8 12-40 (24-80 at 35mm)...so virtually no flaws from the glass show on the picture...so clear pictures at 100% pixel peeping.....& better far distance clarity.....all down to lens...

 

 

If you want the proof of how much difference a lens makes look at the new Nikon Coolpix P1000....same 16MP 1.2/3 sensor in my TG-4......but with a 17 element 125x zoom lens.....

Edited 3 October, 2018 by fabdavrav

[mrcrow]

well said!!

 

i have the G5 lumix...and kept my 14-45 kit zoom...

i did hanker for the olympus om d e mk2....but hesitated at the cost...

now

considering what you are saying...and what i also maintain....its lenses that collect data for the sensor...the sensor i guess is a collector and doesnt really enhance the data...just like double/triple glazing doesnt actually generate heat...and neither does thick insulation...but contains it...for useful purposes

my 14-45 kit lens 3.5-5.6 seems to get a decent review....

should i be looking at upgrading to make the most of my "new" specifications, which for me are a step up...especially the electronic viewfinder and touch sensitive screen...which takes a bit of time to use correctly...hence me buying a G5 manual...still reading bits and pieces as i go along...manual focussing setting for instance

happy you came in there with your experienced observations...

i am looking for crispness and detail...i got that recently with iso 200 and f7.1 at 1/3200...cant imagine what that felt like to the camera but that is the data on the lr software anything i need beyond that its manageable in software..what i hate is having to do sharpening and then noise reduction to get some edge to the images...cant use a tripod all the time?

thanks again

cheers

geof

 

 

• 16 MP Live MOS sensor
• ISO 160-12,800
• 3.0", 920k dot touch-sensitive LCD with Touchpad AF control
• 1.44 million dots electronic viewfinder with eye sensor
• Full AVCHD 1080/60p video with 1080 30p MP4 recording option
• 6 frames per second continuous shooting, 3.7 fps with AF-tracking
• 14 Creative Control filter effects options

 

[fabdavrav]

1 hour ago, mrcrow said:

well said!!

 

 

my 14-45 kit lens 3.5-5.6 seems to get a decent review....

should i be looking at upgrading to make the most of my "new" specifications, which for me are a step up...especially the electronic viewfinder and touch sensitive screen...which takes a bit of time to use correctly...hence me buying a G5 manual...still reading bits and pieces as i go along...manual focussing setting for instance

happy you came in there with your experienced observations...

i am looking for crispness and detail...i got that recently with iso 200 and f7.1 at 1/3200...cant imagine what that felt like to the camera but that is the data on the lr software anything i need beyond that its manageable in software..what i hate is having to do sharpening and then noise reduction to get some edge to the images...cant use a tripod all the time?

thanks again

cheers

geof

 

 

 

 

Every Camera I shoot with I set the file/image size to maximum pixel & fine/superfine....so you capture the most amount of detail from the sensor all the time.....I might only shoot at 4/3 or 3/2 or 1/1 ratio to insitu crop the picture, but most times I shoot at either 3/2 or 4/3 ...so on the TG4 & omd em1 4/3 is the full sensor size ratio...

 

I then shoot at the lowest native ISO...so on the TG4 its 100ISO...on the OMD its 200ISO...(OMD dose 64ISO but its software not native)….

 

I then have camera in aperture mode only...& still go by the old adage of shoot faster than focal length.....now at 200ISO thats quite low light to get below 1/80sec on the 40mm (80mm equ 35mm) end of my lens......so then alter the ISO up...

 

For fast objects say bees etc flying around ISO 800 is fast enough in most light with my lens....go over 800ISO with any camera and you start to get noise creeping in...basically ISO800 & fast film was grainy anyway..

 

Your lens isn't that good compared to my fixed f2.8 12-40mm oly pro...or some of the nice primes...& I have my eye on their 40-150mm f2.8 also....nice...but £££...but cheap & v light small compared to 35mm lens of same spec...

 

BUT I would use your camera kit as it is now...get used to it & push the camera to its limits...like I have done with the TG4...most people even the Oly rep couldn't believe the pictures I got on such a "lowly" camera.....

[Lady Elanore]

On 02/10/2018 at 20:44, mrcrow said:

hi B££fy..

i have been looking at the canon 7d and considering the 18-55 kit zoom

what i find is that there is a number of 18-55 lenses all canon at varying prices....second hand of course

i reckon its to do with the max aperture

what light can you throw on this...have you used one and what is the best aperture and model designation to go for

seems there are a lot of bodies going for sale...not the 7 mk2 though...

cheers

geof

 

 

I think B33fy pretty much nailed it about the 7D and lenses, but I can add a little about the 7Dii which is my main shooter. It might be a bit more than the mkI version, but if you shoot sports it's worth it imho (I had the 7Di too) The autofocus is derived from the 1DX (top Sports pro camera at the time), the max shooting speed of 10fps is great and the body is all alloy and fully weather sealed just like a real pro camera. the only weakness really is the cop sensor which is a little behind the best these days. But the rest of the camera more than makes up for this.

 

Also, as it has dual card slots, you can put a CF flash in one slot and the 'Canon Wifi' card in the SD slot. This will give you wifi control to an Android or Appley thing. In fact the wifi card works with several Canon cameras. I have one and it works well, even if the connection part of the wifi can be a little cumbersome.

 

The 18-55mm Canon lens is probably best in the mkii guise with image stabilising. Called unsurprisingly... the '18-55mm ii IS'. there is a mkiii version but I think it is pretty much the same optics as the mkii and I don't believe it has 'IS' It's a decent thing and although it's a slow lens (small max aperture) it does have a 4 stop stabiliser built-in which is pretty much cutting edge for a lens. 

 

 

Edited 4 October, 2018 by Lady Elanore

[fabdavrav]

7 hours ago, Lady Elanore said:

 

 

I think B33fy pretty much nailed it about the 7D and lenses, but I can add a little about the 7Dii which is my main shooter. It might be a bit more than the mkI version, but if you shoot sports it's worth it imho (I had the 7Di too) The autofocus is derived from the 1DX (top Sports pro camera at the time), the max shooting speed of 10fps is great and the body is all alloy and fully weather sealed just like a real pro camera. the only weakness really is the cop sensor which is a little behind the best these days. But the rest of the camera more than makes up for this.

 

Also, as it has dual card slots, you can put a CF flash in one slot and the 'Canon Wifi' card in the SD slot. This will give you wifi control to an Android or Appley thing. In fact the wifi card works with several Canon cameras. I have one and it works well, even if the connection part of the wifi can be a little cumbersome.

 

The 18-55mm Canon lens is probably best in the mkii guise with image stabilising. Called unsurprisingly... the '18-55mm ii IS'. there is a mkiii version but I think it is pretty much the same optics as the mkii and I don't believe it has 'IS' It's a decent thing and although it's a slow lens (small max aperture) it does have a 4 stop stabiliser built-in which is pretty much cutting edge for a lens. 

 

 

 

 

I looked at ASP-C sensors, but when stuck in a huge SLR body make no sense to me TBH....big body small sensor..might as well go the whole hog & get a full frame job as 20MP full frame in SLR size are dropping in price as 42MP etc are now in vogue...

 

I think APS-C will fade out as a sensor size because of this...& because if you go smaller to M4/3 you get smaller/lighter lenses, & bodies...& virtually no technical/quality diff loss dropping down to M4/3 from ASP-C sensor size...

 

ASP-C is now an odd size/format..neither full on full frame, or light & compact M4/3...

 

My Oly Om-D E-M1 MKII specs:-

 

20MP

dual SD card slots, one supports UHS-II

60fps in full lock up & electronic shutter...

15fps with mechanical shutter & focus & exposure locked

10fps fully unlocked with mechanical

5.5 stops of in body image stabilisation..

6.5 stops total (extra 1stop) of image stabilisation when used with an appropriate lens with lens IS

fully weather sealed/waterproof alloy body (seen people leaving these in tubs of water..& is got a higher IPX rating than all the other OM-D cameras

-10C operating temp...

574g body & battery...& with the 12-40 f/2.8 (382g) gives a total weight of 956g...so under the 1kg weight I set for buying specs for me..

 

Canon 7Dmkii is 910g for body & battery....still got to add the lens weight...

 

"mrcrow" is already in M4/3...might as well stick to it....no advantages in moving to ASP-C....if he wants more pixels..get the OM-D E-M1 mkii...as the rest of the specs for the camera beat many ASP-C offerings...

Edited 4 October, 2018 by fabdavrav

[Xavier]

I moved over to full frame quite a few years ago, here's a brief summary of my journey:

After having an old point and shoot stolen from my 5* hotel room, early 2000s, I decided to go down the dSLR route and bought a Nikon D60. Compact sensor, 6MP, it came with the kit lens (18-70 DX / crop sensor).

I also bought a cheap 70-300mm zoom lens, not knowing much about aperture / speed, etc. For motorsport, it was fine as it gave me the reach and I was never after a super fast shutter speed so light wasn't an issue.

Then, a year or two later, I bought a D200. First prosumer body. I also bought a nice Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC (crop only).

A few years after that, I had to choose: do I upgrade and get a D300 or do I go the whole hog and go for the D700 (first prosumer full-frame body that was starting to be affordable).

As I only had the 18-70 kit lens and the Sigma that were crop-only lenses, I decided to start my full-frame journey and picked up the D700.

The step-up for me at that time was immense. As reach was becoming less of a priority, I didn't mind losing out the 1.5x magnification the crop sensor brought, and started to appreciate the extra light the larger sensor benefited from. I sold the D200 with the 18-70 kit lens and Sigma 30mm f/1.4 to a friend.

Then, I bought a D3s as I wanted something sturdier.

And more recently, I bought a D800 (about 4-5 years ago). That's the last body I bought. Since then, it's been just lenses. I have:

Nikkor AF-S 24mm f/1.4G ED N RF

Nikkor AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8G ED FX

Nikkor AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8 VR1

Nikkor AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6G

Nikkor AF-S 200mm f/2.0 VR1 (my favourite!)

Nikkor AF 85mm f/1.4D (my second favourite. Great for portraits in natural light. Signature chromatic abberations on OoF / edges, but I love it!)

Nikkor AF-S 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED VR Macro

Nikkor TC2.0 III (turns the 200 f/2.0 into a 400mm f/4)

Sigma 12-24mm f/4-5.6

Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG

Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 EX DG HSM. I hardly use this nowadays and prefer the 200mm f/2.0 as focussing is lighteningly quick. I'm rarely at the wider end, so with the 200mm, that's enough and I can always crop for more "reach".

 

IME, jumping to full frame can be expensive, especially if you already have several crop-only lenses, but unless you need silly reach, the extra light and control you get is worth it.

[Lady Elanore]

The funny thing is I have a full frame 5Diii and yet spend more time with the crop sensor 7Dii   Mostly this is because of the extra reach the 7Dii gives me as the two bodies are physically identical. Even the buttons are pretty much in the same place and the autofocus is very similar too. I'm starting to try and use the 5Diii for more sporting stuff these days and it's a bit of a learning curve how to adapt to the compromises of the full frame sensor and slower frame rate. The extra stop of noise reduction the 5Diii gives is nice though, as is the Bokeh

 

I should add that I occasionally hire the 'big white' Canon lenses as it works out at around 1% of the purchase price for 2.5 days and includes the insurance and I can choose from the whole pro Canon catafalque. The 300mm F2.8ii is sharper than a squirt of lemon in your eye! 

Edited 4 October, 2018 by Lady Elanore

[mrcrow]

12 hours ago, Lady Elanore said:

*snip*....The 18-55mm Canon lens is probably best in the mkii guise with image stabilising. Called unsurprisingly... the '18-55mm ii IS'. there is a mkiii version but I think it is pretty much the same optics as the mkii and I don't believe it has 'IS' It's a decent thing and although it's a slow lens (small max aperture) it does have a 4 stop stabiliser built-in which is pretty much cutting edge for a lens. 

 

 

thank you your eminence, for the above insight..as B33fy said...its a jungle trying to work out value against ££...and that is after committing oneself to the marque

by 14-45 is IS ....hic...rather MEGA OIS..

"A definition of Power OIS. Power Optical Image Stabilizer. A technology used by Panasonic in its Lumix range of cameras to prevent image blur resulting from hand shake. This is said to provide almost twice the degree of correction as the company's previous Mega O.I.S system.13 Jun 2012"

 

what i have been fortunate to have that in my present lens is and can be really helpful since it also has a f3.5 min aperture...and it seems to work well.. i havent switched it off but some do??

 

interesting the letters IS are attached to image stabilisation in the digital cameras...my old mechanical nikons' lenses were designated AI-s...aperture indexing and an improvement on the AI lenses of old which required indexing to set aperture limits to synchronise the metering with the lens aperture range... the s was added to the newer design in which the metering was set by a piece of metal on the lens attachment end which engaged with a lever on the body face..and so did all the work

the newer lenses with no prong...were "s" inasmuch as they indexed via the plate and lug on the body

if you had older pre "s" bodies you could still buy newer lenses as they had the indexing prong...and a hole each side to allow the aperture settings to be read more easily

i had an "old un" indexing lens...and the optics and clarity were extraordinary...it was a 3.5 50mm manual focus and went on my first nikkormat Ft which had a little meter set on top for the manual metering..and 1000's of gears...all metal

choosing equipment was easier then...nikon bodies/nikon lenses..the older the better.

 

cheers..

geof

Edited 4 October, 2018 by mrcrow

[fabdavrav]

1 hour ago, Xavier said:

 

As I only had the 18-70 kit lens and the Sigma that were crop-only lenses, I decided to start my full-frame journey and picked up the D700.

The step-up for me at that time was immense. As reach was becoming less of a priority, I didn't mind losing out the 1.5x magnification the crop sensor brought, and started to appreciate the extra light the larger sensor benefited from. I sold the D200 with the 18-70 kit lens and Sigma 30mm f/1.4 to a friend.

Then, I bought a D3s as I wanted something sturdier.

And more recently, I bought a D800 (about 4-5 years ago). That's the last body I bought. Since then, it's been just lenses. I have:

Nikkor AF-S 24mm f/1.4G ED N RF

Nikkor AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8G ED FX

Nikkor AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8 VR1

Nikkor AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6G

Nikkor AF-S 200mm f/2.0 VR1 (my favourite!)

Nikkor AF 85mm f/1.4D (my second favourite. Great for portraits in natural light. Signature chromatic abberations on OoF / edges, but I love it!)

Nikkor AF-S 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED VR Macro

Nikkor TC2.0 III (turns the 200 f/2.0 into a 400mm f/4)

Sigma 12-24mm f/4-5.6

Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG

Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 EX DG HSM. I hardly use this nowadays and prefer the 200mm f/2.0 as focussing is lighteningly quick. I'm rarely at the wider end, so with the 200mm, that's enough and I can always crop for more "reach".

 

IME, jumping to full frame can be expensive, especially if you already have several crop-only lenses, but unless you need silly reach, the extra light and control you get is worth it.

 

 

That's a shed load of ££…& weight.....

 

& nothing personal, ….but I've see people with big collections of lenses etc & they still produce pictures which may be sharp but are totally rubbish composition etc..& I would be ashamed to show anyone...just look on Alamy!..all the gear & no idea is definitely the in thing....

 

"crop factor"......I hate the term as it misused to by many to claim that 35mm digital is way better than anything else smaller.....using the same components in a system to take a picture & then similar spec components  in a different system, does not mean you cannot take the exact same picture with both systems....infact if the MP number is that same eg 16MP or 20MP then the pictures will be the same total size...so long as the in camera ratio is set the same eg 4:3, 3:2 or 1:1

 

35mm is a new format..medium format & large format were around way before...& 35mm is a "crop factor" of medium format & large format..& therefore by the same stupid logic 35mm is rubbish....& the best landscape photographer ever ...Ansel Adams..& he used usually 4x5 & 8x10..inch!!…& thus everything else must be rubbish as a smaller crop factor...

 

Medium format has been the choice pro camera for many decades & the format for studio portraiture...& yes you can buy digital ones....& when the price comes down further more people will move back....away from the "inferior" crop factor of 35mm digital....you see the same logic of crop factor makes 35mm better than all small formats also applies to 35mm when compared to the superior medium & large formats...lol...

 

I hate big weight & spending loads of time on gear.."do I take this lens or that lens"??...I need to the gear to do exactly what I want quickly, easily..be light weight..& cope with -10C operating temp, & weatherproof.

 

So M/43 is the best..for me.....& the lenses are fantastic...sharp edge to edge...small & light weight....& more so when you go long focal length....the Oly 40-150mm (same FL as 80 to 300mm in 35mm) fixed f/2.8......760g without tripod adaptor...try getting that in a 35mm spec...!!!

 

or even better the Oly 300mm f/4.0...(600mm FL in 35mm)….1270g without tripod adaptor....& 227mm long (hood retracted)…& 92.5mm diameter...much better, way less conspicuous...& easier to carry all day long....try that in 35mm...

 

 

As far as light & control in M/43...not had a problem with as I don't shoot in pitch black...& when I have done fairground stuff at night I use the OLy mode of live composite.....this is their unique mode & it works very well...I posted an image earlier on in this thread...

Edited 4 October, 2018 by fabdavrav

[Lady Elanore]

If you have a spare few hours I can recommend looking at the cartoons of 'What the Duck'  They show the frustrations of a pro photographer and are genuinely funny. You can buy loads of merch too  Try the linky below

 

 

Photo Duck Linky

[Xavier]

I wasn't suggesting crop is bad, and my use of the term "crop sensor" was in respect to full frame 24x36mm film cameras (which yes, are a crop on 8x10").

 

With the advances in technology, some smaller M43 is arguably as good as pro gear from 15 years ago that cost a fortune. Pros and cons for everything

 

And yes, WTD is funny and worth a look

[mrcrow]

29 minutes ago, fabdavrav said:

35mm is a new format..medium format & large format were around way before...& 35mm is a "crop factor" of medium format & large format..& therefore by the same stupid logic 35mm is rubbish....& the best landscape photographer ever ...Ansel Adams..& he used usually 4x5 & 8x10..inch!!…& thus everything else must be rubbish as a smaller crop factor...

35mm is full frame....the film width was used in its entirety and had sprocket holes for indexing accurately one shot to the next...and the use of a winder!!

...one could get half frame cameras to get double the shots off of one cassette...

medium format used different film and cameras...

lots of war correspondents used 35mm...for the cassette reasons and amount of shots on one load up, motor wind, and ttl viewing...

the nikon F was a workhorse in WWII along with the photomic which had metering..all metal all mechanical solid cameras

cheers

geof

 

 

 

Edited 4 October, 2018 by mrcrow

[fabdavrav]

16 minutes ago, Xavier said:

I wasn't suggesting crop is bad, and my use of the term "crop sensor" was in respect to full frame 24x36mm film cameras (which yes, are a crop on 8x10").

 

With the advances in technology, some smaller M43 is arguably as good as pro gear from 15 years ago that cost a fortune. Pros and cons for everything

 

 

I wasn't having a go...just trying to put a more correct perspective on it...one of my mates shoots medium format film still....& also has 35mm "full frame" digital.....still prefers the medium format for sharpness....

 

but then taking that gear on all day hike in winter up mountains is not for everyone..which is why I get photos even on my "lowly" TG4 that makes people with bigger cameras very jealous....

[fabdavrav]

1 hour ago, mrcrow said:

35mm is full frame....the film width was used in its entirety and had sprocket holes for indexing accurately one shot to the next...and the use of a winder!!

...one could get half frame cameras to get double the shots off of one cassette...

medium format used different film and cameras...

 

cheers

geof

 

 

 

 

I'll say it differently....35mm may have had sprockets top & bottom so "full frame"....but its size is smaller than medium format & large format.....therefore it is a so called "crop"...in digital there are no film & no sprocket holes so there are no "full " or "part" frame versions.....so you can argue there is no crop...just a different system.....take your pick....

 

you just have smaller or larger sensors (physical size)……..& all due to the actual physics of light/circles of confusion etc....the smaller the film size or sensor the shorter the focal length to get the same focal length as a bigger film/sensor size....

 

so compared to a small sensor..a large format lens is pinhole telephoto....& the small sensor has a short FL wide angle fish eye compared to the large format..& both to get the same field of view...

 

EDIT to add:-

& that's where the size & weight saving come in....smaller diameter of glass for smaller film/sensor....less weight..also shorter actual lens size even if element number & field of view & f/ the same

 

Edited 4 October, 2018 by fabdavrav