I used the existing wiring harness on the car then did a bit of 'Blue Peter' work and made some spade type connectors to go on the end of the new horns wires and connected them up to the car. That way I didn't cut into the original wires like it suggested, as if there is a problem with the car I can switch them back for warranty work.

I've only had to use the horn once but it was certainly heard by the other driver!

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Edited 13 July, 201312 yr by jonro2009

http://www.ebay.co.u...d=281120420538

These are the bulbs I have used, very impressed with them, and no error codes! On the subject of DRLs I am wanting to get hold of a VCDS cable/software to activate the tail lights with the DRLs and also to have the dash binnacle lights to come on with ignition.

Horn is, excuse the pun, 'fab' I will post a real quick video when I have someone to toot the horn for me. So easy to fit, the only thing that took anytime was creating my own wiring loom to just 'plug and play' with the Fabias existing socket. Plenty of room for a fanfare horn behind the bumper...it was Childs play.

http://www.ebay.co.u...d=281120420538

 

 

Are these CREE bulbs for the Monte DRL a direct fit?

Edited 13 August, 201312 yr by Lewisb1989

Yes, just a case of removing the old ones and twisting in the CREE ones.

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I've been a cheap arse and bought these 

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121149260588?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

They arrived and look like good quality. Tried to fit them today but they don't seem to be working for some reason. Initially it somehow blew the fuse. So changed that and tried again and i carnt get them to fire up for some reason. I tried one cree and one original to make sure i hadn't blown the fuse again. But no cree action. Went to put the original ones back in and the filament has totally detached in one of them some. So I've had to leave them both out now, don't want to be driving round with one on. In all of the instances I have not seen any canbus error on the maxidot. Does that mean the DRL's arnt in the canbus system or is that what is stopping them working?

 

The cree bulbs definitely work, I put a 9V battery across them today. Am i missing something or do I just need to bite the bullet n pay +£20 for some with built in resistors? Dont want to mess about with separate resisters. 

Hmmm.... odd one.

So the originals still work apart from the one with the dodgy filament. The CREE don't work in the car but do with a 9V battery. Have you tried reversing the polarity of the bulb. ....putting it in upside down?

Resistors can be bought for the bulbs you have and from memory are about £6 plug and play with your existing wiring and new bulbs.

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Yeah the original ones work just fine. I suppose it could be a polarity thing because obviously with a filament bulb it doesn't matter but with the bayonet type bulb like these rotating the bulb wont do anything. One pole is at the bottom and the other all around the side. Can you rotate the plug to switch polarity or will it only go in one way?

These are the correct cree bulbs (10 watts per bulb) which work without any errors:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-P21W-CREE-Q5-10W-LED-1156-382-BA15s-STOP-TAIL-REVERSE-BULBS-DRL-BRAKE/281120420538?

 

Could it be that the cheaper ones are only 7 watts per bulb hence the problems?

Edited 30 August, 201312 yr by FabFabFabia

No that is just the power usage, That wont have any effect. Its like changing he bulb in you housed from a 80W to a 40W. The lower wattage just means it uses less energy and is therefore cheaper to run. Also it generally means dimmer with a like for like bulb.

It could be that the more expensive ones don't need resistors? All I know is that there are dozens of choices out there so I played safe, spent a bit more, and got ones that were recommended to me by Jonro2009 because, quite simply, they were proven to work right out of the box.

Just want to get one thing straight here : the 2 * 5 watt (10 watt)-lamp is actually 2 * 1 watt.
It's 5-watt diodes that are getting fed with 1 watt of power.

The "50"-watt lamp haves 10 diodes and they are also fed with 1 watt of power per diode.

I think it's really really bad of the company to post faulty information to its customers.

Makes you think if they really know what they are doing...

Just had a thought. The bulbs with 2 CREE XPE each might only have one working at a time. One might be wired one way and the other the opposite. Therefore, no matter which way the car is wired up the bulb will work and 1 XPE is that bright that you would never notice or even be able to see that only half of the bulb is working.

1 xpe is not very bright when it's pushing 1 watt through it, it depends on the electronics inside off it.

Either it's multidirectional or not, very easy .

Sounds like a very stupid solution to have one wired one way and the other wired the other way .

The key must be to have them multi directional then but I've not read many listings on eBay that state if they are or not though.

Well, skip Ebay then :P.
I know off a company that sells multidirectional lamps, but I think it wouldn't be okay for me to link it here since it would be like commercial...

Just fitted these

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281112776357?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

nice and bright with no errors & fast delivery

I looked at these but want sure. Do you have any pictures of them working on your car? Would be very interested in seeing them.

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Here you go

 

 

 

Jonro I'm interested in the Horns you got, are they much louder than standard?

The light really fills the whole unit with a very crisp light. . Nice.

The horn is much louder than standard, being two tone it certainly sounds better than the little toot toot you get as standard. I would liken it to the sound of an A3 or ford Focus. Many people say What's the point, but if you need to warn somebody you are there, or something to that effect you need to be heard and taken seriously.

For the price and effort is a good little mod, even I managed to fit it myself.

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Here you go

 

 

 

Jonro I'm interested in the Horns you got, are they much louder than standard?

Just ordered these. Does anyone know which ones fit the fog lights H8 or H11? led

H8 and H11 are very similar fitment, only a few mm in it so they can both be used. Many bulbs are advertised as H11/H8.

If you do go for them some pics and links would be good. Also be interested to know if they throw up any error codes.

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I'm coming at this from a different angle, so would appreciate appropriate advice.

Firstly, I don't like DRLs so after getting my new car home I removed the right fuse to disable them.

My wife DOES like them and I can see her point with the Reaction being a grey car. On other cars this hasn't been a problem as they have been switchable, but its likely that she'll win this argument.

I've no idea how long the conventional incandescent bulbs will last, but I might as well bite the DRL bullet sooner rather than later for the sake of longevity.

Can anyone recommend a "basic" but reliable and compatible bulb that gives no errors and requires no additional resistors. I don't want anything fancy. In fact the more discrete - the better.

If I have to have them I just want something that works (preferably ONLY from the front), isn't blindingly bright,and saves the faff of changing bulbs in the future - all at minimal cost. Of course the premium for LEDs will be less if I just leave the existing ones to blow.

Any links would be appreciated as all the acronyms are Greek to me.

^^^

There's a switch under the dash to turn them on and off.

 

As for the bulbs, any P21W Canbus LED's will work.  There's loads of different types to choose from (SMD, Cree, etc) and they should in theory outlast conventional bulbs.

P21W is the fitment type. ..looks a little like the push and twist bulb you would use at home.

Canbus is the error monitoring system that measures the resistance to each bulb. ... to little resistance means the system thinks the bulb is out, hence the need for resistors built in or otherwise. Saying that I had a DRL go out and no error was on the dash.

LED. SMD. CREE are the type of diode used for illumination. Each one should easily outlast any standard filament bulb. They are all a brighter cleaner white light than filament which can look a bit yellow.

All DRLs are only active at the front, rear lights are not illuminated.

If you aren't a fan of DRLs and don't want them to be too in your face I would suggest just leaving the standard bulbs in and replacing the fuse. The bulbs normally have a decent enough lifespan.

As Jim says there is a switch behind the fuse box cover you can use instead of removing a fuse. I always worry that if involved in an accident and you have knowingly disabled the DRLs by removing a fuse your insurance company may take a 'dim' view. .excuse the pun. If it was just a case of having a switch in the off position you could easily plead ignorance and say what switch? Most aren't activated on PDI and most dealers don't know the switch exists!

Sorry if any of the info is patronising but you said anacronyms are Greek so I went for basics

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Thanks jonro2009, a very helpful explanation of everything. I'm very happy with the CREE LEDs that I ordered and fitted from your recommendations.

That's great Fab! Glad you are so happy. ...I know I am. Still haven't bitten the bullet and done the fog lights though..... not sure if it's worth the money for the amount of time I would use them, plus I have the awesome HID conversion.

Rapid. .....im my opinion LEDs look a little 'star trek' & 'cheap' behind the lens when off. ..

This is the kind of bulb I would go for if subtle is your bag

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281064869868?redirect=mobile

As compared to these which I don't like the look of when off. ..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-1156-BA15S-382-P21W-White-50-SMD-LED-Tail-Brake-Turn-Signal-Light-Lamp-Bulb/281155994953?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D74%26meid%3D1754762858407717159%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1048%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D281115364101%26

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