ok so i have the hugely unpopular bilstein b14 coilovers on the vrs and for a while now my car has been pulling more than it should to the left...

took it into a garage where they did a suspension alignment 'test' and i was provided with information that the left front camber was completely on the p*ss

I then took the car to a reputable garage after being sceptical and was told that i couldnt adjust the camber on the fabia so somehow i have drunk camber on one side that cannot be fixed??

how does that work....

comments appreciated

I literally had the same done last week lol nee tyres and laser alignment showed the camber was out on the front left. I have a worn bush there would that be the reason?

ok so i have the hugely unpopular bilstein b14 coilovers on the vrs and for a while now my car has been pulling more than it should to the left...

took it into a garage where they did a suspension alignment 'test' and i was provided with information that the left front camber was completely on the p*ss

I then took the car to a reputable garage after being sceptical and was told that i couldnt adjust the camber on the fabia so somehow i have drunk camber on one side that cannot be fixed??

how does that work....

comments appreciated

Fronts can be adjusted by playing with tolerances on consoles etc. As the strut is clamped to the hub rather than bolted, it's not possible to use camber or wobble bolts. OTOH, camber adjustable top mounts are available for some VAG cars. I don't know specifically about their suitability for the Fabia though.

Rears require more thought. There are rear shim kits available that will adjust rear camber but they require the hub/stub axle removed to fit a shim behind. "Basil" looked VERY hard before finding and fitting these.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/90281-diy-pic-guide-proper-re-alignment-of-rear-axle/

J.

Critical areas are console bush condition, consule housing in relation to the front subframe, and the position of the subframe relative to the chassis.

with new bushes, and nothing bent, camber can be 'evened out' between the front wheels, by aligning the consules, and then the subframe.

Not ideal, but then it's a built to price car.

Critical areas are console bush condition, consule housing in relation to the front subframe, and the position of the subframe relative to the chassis.

with new bushes, and nothing bent, camber can be 'evened out' between the front wheels, by aligning the consules, and then the subframe.

Not ideal, but then it's a built to price car.

fair point

would the fact that the steering wheel isnt straight when the car actually goes in a straight line be relevant too?

fair point

would the fact that the steering wheel isnt straight when the car actually goes in a straight line be relevant too?

Yes, the wheel should be very close to centered when driving straight. However, that can also be caused by garages adjusting tracking, using one track rod end only. Tracking errors, should be adjusted using both track rod ends, to ensure the steering wheel doesn't go out of alignment. You may also find you are constantly fighting the PAS slightly at low speeds.

Agree with above^^^^^^^^^^^ the steering wheel should be clamped at 12o'clock and the the track rod ends adjusted. The subframe an console units have about 5mm total of play in them...so slacken off the bolts etc as per my post.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/165720-fabia-nut-and-bolt-tightening-torques/page__view__findpost__p__2314024

****************************************************************************

Front pivot bolt for lower wishbone = 70Nm (52lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Lower arm rear mounting bracket plate (console) has 1 large bolt and 2 small ones.

Large = 70Nm (52lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Small = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew these bolts.

Front (console) subframe to underbody bolt (the one that you get to through hole on wishbone) = 50Nm (37lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn (Yes I know that this is a lower torque than rear bolt, but logically the rear one takes more force as the suspension tries to go up and back into bodywork, which is why it also has a reinforcing place and a further 2 bolts!!

Steering rack to subframe/console/underbody (four bolts) = 50Nm (37lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Gearbox link to subframe bolt = 40Nm (30lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

***If you have had to move/replace console, ARB, etc. I have found this to help setting it up even!! Slacken all the above bolts up to line ******(especially front pivot). Then push the aluminium consoles (you might also have to push the subframe) to rear of car and outwards max diff is about 5mm. Then fully tighten the rear console bracket bolts (6 total) and front console bolts (2). Then tighten (evenly) the front pivot bolts to 1/2 torque (this positions the sub frame), then fully tighten the four steering rack bolts. Now you can go back and fully tighten the front pivot bolts, and the gearbox link to subframe bolt!!!

Agree with above^^^^^^^^^^^ the steering wheel should be clamped at 12o'clock and the the track rod ends adjusted. The subframe an console units have about 5mm total of play in them...so slacken off the bolts etc as per my post.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/165720-fabia-nut-and-bolt-tightening-torques/page__view__findpost__p__2314024

****************************************************************************

Front pivot bolt for lower wishbone = 70Nm (52lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Lower arm rear mounting bracket plate (console) has 1 large bolt and 2 small ones.

Large = 70Nm (52lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Small = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew these bolts.

Front (console) subframe to underbody bolt (the one that you get to through hole on wishbone) = 50Nm (37lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn (Yes I know that this is a lower torque than rear bolt, but logically the rear one takes more force as the suspension tries to go up and back into bodywork, which is why it also has a reinforcing place and a further 2 bolts!!

Steering rack to subframe/console/underbody (four bolts) = 50Nm (37lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Gearbox link to subframe bolt = 40Nm (30lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

***If you have had to move/replace console, ARB, etc. I have found this to help setting it up even!! Slacken all the above bolts up to line ******(especially front pivot). Then push the aluminium consoles (you might also have to push the subframe) to rear of car and outwards max diff is about 5mm. Then fully tighten the rear console bracket bolts (6 total) and front console bolts (2). Then tighten (evenly) the front pivot bolts to 1/2 torque (this positions the sub frame), then fully tighten the four steering rack bolts. Now you can go back and fully tighten the front pivot bolts, and the gearbox link to subframe bolt!!!

thanks