Hello Skoda owners!

I have owned my silver Skoda Fabia 1.4 16V Elegance estate 06 plate for nearly 2 years now and have been generally delighted with it. However, there has been an ongoing problem with it that will not go away. Here is a brief history:

1. Bought in August 2009

2. Ran fine for a month although always felt a little sluggish particularly from a standing start - almost juddery moving off in 1st gear

3. On a longish trip to Glasgow the engine management light (fuel system) suddenly went on and the car went into limp mode. The AA were called out and reset the fault. Everything fine.

4. Couple of weeks later the same thing happened and this time took it to a Skoda dealer where the fault was checked and found to be one of the cylinders misfiring. Luckily the cylinder coil pack was replaced under warranty.

5. Ran fine for over a year with regular servicing.

6. There was then an intermittant EGR valve fault which was reset by my local garage.

7. Not long after this the engine management light came on again, with no apparent change in performance and this time my local garage found it to be the oxygen sensor which was replaced at a costly £200!

I am now a month on from the oxygen sensor replacement, and yet another sensor fault has occured! In this instance, I was driving up to a junction and started to slow down (foot off accelerator but not yet on the brake), and the car judders suddenly and all mannner of lights are on. To be specific the ASR (traction control) light was on solid, the oil light was flashing and the same engine management light as per previous was on. I stopped the car, turned off the engine then attempted to restart it but it took some effort after several turn overs. I then switched off the engine again (for longer this time) and it started perfectly, but the engine management light remained stubborn and alight

I have since taken it to the same garage to get it plugged into the diagnostic machine and the following error has occured:

16706 Engine RPM Sensor-G28 No Signal P0322 Intermittent

Now the mechanic has suggested that I now get this replaced but I am weary of spending yet more money on this if this only fixes the problem temporarily! I have read in other forums that updating the EMS software may fix this, so could this be a good place to start?

Has anyone had similar problems with their 1.4 16V Skoda that may help me in my quest for a non-illuminated engine management light?

Apologies for the long post, but I thought a short history may help anyone willing to help

Thanks in advance,

Mike

Good luck in your quest.

The ECU firmware upgrade can only be performed by your dealer and should be free if done with a full service.

The sensor you list is not expensive and is extremely easy to replace.

I suspect your EGR valve may actually be failing since you have had it reset once already, you should probably get it changed and re-adapted to be sure since they are really hard to accurately diagnose.

Does anyone else have some suggestions on a fix for this problem?

The car is being taken into the garage this Monday to get the Engine RPM sensor (crankshaft sensor) replaced. I've read on these forums of problems with piston rings, and while I know the engine is a BBZ and not AUB this still worries me. I have been using Octane 95, is it advisable to use Octane 98? And if so should I make sure the tank is empty as possible, fill up with 98 a few times and get filters changed etc?

The issues I have described previously are really niggling at me and I'm worried these little problems are never going to go away (and cost me a fortune!). The car isn't even paid for yet and well out of warranty!

Cheers,

Mike

The piston ring thing is a red herring, please ignore it.

You should really use 98 octane for better performance and economy, changing the filter is unnecessary, 95 isn't dirty!

The piston ring thing is a red herring, please ignore it.

You should really use 98 octane for better performance and economy, changing the filter is unnecessary, 95 isn't dirty!

Seeing as you have the same engine in your motor mate thanks for the advice! Have you had any problems with sensors, in particular EGR valve, oxygen (lambda) sensor, and engine RPM sensor? I'm starting to think that my choice of fuel has been the main problem with regard to these, in particular the oxygen sensor as perhaps the 95 fuel is too lean?

Cheers,

Mike

In a word. YES!

Which is why I suggested the EGR valve be replaced if you've had a code throw it up.

That one component can cause a multitude of other codes to rear up since the Lambda probe can soot up easily if the EGR system is malfunctioning.

Engine RPM sensor can cause problems when the car is used for a lot of short journeys since the sensor tip actually corrodes due to condensation build up, these engines are very prone to condensation issues causing creamy oil filler caps and subsequent head gasket hysteria.

The 95 fuel is not too lean but it forces the ignition to retard really badly to avoid pinking, check your spark plugs too because pinking absolutely eats them.

In a word. YES!

Which is why I suggested the EGR valve be replaced if you've had a code throw it up.

That one component can cause a multitude of other codes to rear up since the Lambda probe can soot up easily if the EGR system is malfunctioning.

Engine RPM sensor can cause problems when the car is used for a lot of short journeys since the sensor tip actually corrodes due to condensation build up, these engines are very prone to condensation issues causing creamy oil filler caps and subsequent head gasket hysteria.

The 95 fuel is not too lean but it forces the ignition to retard really badly to avoid pinking, check your spark plugs too because pinking absolutely eats them.

Great advice, thank you! I do a lot of shorter journeys in my car and only do around 8000 miles a year. It can often sit in the drive throughout the week without being driven (result of a 3 minute walk to work!). So have the EGR valve and engine RPM sensor problems related in any way to each other? The garage has ordered the new RPM sensor and I am due to get it replaced on Monday. Is there a possibility that if the EGR valve is replaced the engine RPM sensor problem will go away or would you advise that both are replaced? Would obviously rather fork out for one replacement than both if one is not really required. I feel I am closer to a fix now, so thank you for your help

Cheers,

Mike

I have been using Octane 95, is it advisable to use Octane 98? And if so should I make sure the tank is empty as possible, fill up with 98 a few times and get filters changed etc?

Defo do this!

Run tank to empty (almost) fill up with Shell Vpower then run tank to empty (almost) then fill tank again with Vpower and also add a bottle of Cataclean to the tank....then run to empty (almost) then change fuel filter.

These engines only like 98ron if you want to run them properly!!!

Cataclean info;

http://www.systemproducts.com/

Great advice, thank you! I do a lot of shorter journeys in my car and only do around 8000 miles a year. It can often sit in the drive throughout the week without being driven (result of a 3 minute walk to work!). So have the EGR valve and engine RPM sensor problems related in any way to each other? The garage has ordered the new RPM sensor and I am due to get it replaced on Monday. Is there a possibility that if the EGR valve is replaced the engine RPM sensor problem will go away or would you advise that both are replaced? Would obviously rather fork out for one replacement than both if one is not really required. I feel I am closer to a fix now, so thank you for your help

Cheers,

Mike

Ok, stick with the sensor replacement for now, change the fuel you use and try and change the usage pattern a little.

It sounds to me like the car spends too much time in 'cold start' mode and this is causing the sooting up of your Lambda probe, cat and EGR system.

Try giving the car an 'Italian tune' from time to time and undertake some longer journeys where the car spends time in lean cruise, this will fully heat up both Lambda probes, the catalyst and EGR system and burn off the sooty deposits and also evaporate all the condensation inside the engine.

Don't be surprised or concerned if you see a creamy deposit on the oil filler cap after this, the CEL or EPC may also come on as the system cleans up and the ECU has to recalibrate itself, you shouldn't notice any difference in performance if this happens though and it should self-reset after a while.