I had my brake light switch pack up on me the other day with the usual intermittent brake lights, then complete failure of the switch and glow plug light flashing. A similar thing happened in my MK4 Golf, infact I'm pretty sure it's the same part.

This was done on my 2006 Fabia VRS

You will need:

- 1 Skoda Fabia with broken brake light switch

- Torx Bits

- Small flat headed screwdriver

- Replacement switch

Now, I did some research on the switch before I went out and bought it. VAG dealers will supply you with the 3rd incarnation of this switch, which is reported by many to be easily broken and a pig to fit without damaging it. I managed to get an older style switch from Eurocarparts for about £8.50. As you'll see from the photos the design is different but they fit the same.

Begin by removing the headlight switch panel. To do this, set the dial to O and push the dial in firmly until it goes in and then turn clockwise. It won’t go far but once it’s turned you should then be able to pull the switch panel outwards.

Unclip the harness from the switch, by pushing in the clips and pulling apart. Don’t pull by the wires, for obvious reasons. Once the switch is separated, put it to one side.

Next, remove the offside trim panel covering the fuse box. You’ll notice there’s a slight gap in the lower quarter where you can pop either a small screwdriver or the end of your car key.

There are 4 clips holding this trim in place so you’ll need to carefully pull the trim outwards until they are all free, before pulling it towards you to remove it completely.

Using a Torx Bit remove the screws as circled in RED and keep them safe.

Make your way under the steering wheel and remove the 3 torx screws as circled in RED below and keep them safe. I’d already removed 1 before I remembered to take a photo. There’s no need to remove the torx screw where the Yellow X is.

Moving up to the Cluster, gently pull the RIGHT SIDE ONLY of the trim below the cluster towards you to reveal another Torx screw. There’s no need to remove this piece of trim completely, so just be gentle with it.

You might need to adjust the steering wheel to get access with your Torx Bit. Remove the Torx Screw and keep it safe.

With this last Torx Screw removed the lower dash trim is now ready to remove. It should come away with a gentle tug, pull it towards you and slightly down. It’ll come 4-5 inches away from the rest of the dash.

You’ll then need to remove the rubber hose that feeds air to the storage compartment and depending on how long the harness is, the wire that goes to the Onboard Diagnostic Port. Mine was long enough to just rest the trim in the footwell and still give access to the brake pedal.

The brake light switch on mine is the Brown circle style as shown below. Remove the cabling by pushing in the clips as circled RED and pull upwards.

To remove the Brake Switch, get a good grip with your hand and turn it ANTI-CLOCKWISE 90 degrees. It should then come away from the switch holder.

Now, this bit is the hardest part. These switches aren’t very strong so be careful with them. I couldn’t take photos while I did this as you’ll need to use 2 hands. With 1 hand fully depress the brake pedal as far as you can physically push the pedal. With your other hand insert the new Brake Switch into the holder and turn it 90 degrees CLOCK-WISE until it sits comfortably and securely. Keeping the brake pedal depressed use your free hand to pull the piston part of the switch out as far as you can until it rests against the arm of the brake pedal. Once the piston of the switch is touching the arm of the pedal, release the pedal and reconnect the wiring to the switch.

Now, check the operation of the switch by pushing the brake pedal a few times and check the operation of the brake lights. You might need somebody to check they’re working for you if you’re working in daylight or you can’t see the reflection of the lights off a surface.

Once you’re satisfied the switch is operational, retrace this guide backwards to refit all the necessary trim.

I hope this guide is helpful, it takes just a small amount of common sense and took me about 20 minutes to do. Please don’t take this guide as professional advice and consult an auto-electrician or professional if you’re unsure, as I cannot be held liable for any damage or other misfortune whilst performing this procedure.

Brilliant guide, thanks very much.

Ta, mate. Great guide.

Just one thing, when you remove the panel between the wheel and the EIC, there are two torx screws. I dunno if you forgot one or the RHD Fabia has one while the LHD has two, but i pretty near broke the panel while removing it when i missed the screw. And it doesn't come off with it. I can guarantee that.

EDIT: dual post due to laggy mobile....

Edited 19 May, 201214 yr by DaKKs_152

Have just managed to change my brake light switch in 19mins thanks to this excellent post, and all for a grand total of £8. Many thanks GrahamVRS, you've saved me a lot of time any money here!!!

Hey, I jut replaced the switch and brake lights seem to be working fine but the glow plug warning light is still flashing? Any ideas?

If you are fitting the type of brake light switch with the narrow end do NOT push down the pedal when fitting. Leave the pedal where it is, this will set the internal ratchet mechanism properly.

The later better switches as here..

http://www.fabia-vrs.com/technical-info/brake-pedal-switch-failures/

You can fit either way, no internal ratchet mech to worry about. Also the switch isnt set until it has clicked fully round, then the lights will work.

great guide.

just replaced my broken switch with a black switch from a skoda deale - £12.

it didn't work for us until we didn't push the pedal down when fitting the new switch.

would this be the same setup /procedure for a 2000 1.4 hatch fabia?

Fitting black switch again tomorrow. Would ppl suggest reconnecting the 4 pin first before putting switch into place or attach after switch fitted?

I paid someone to fit mine last week as it was snowing and I dont have a garage/dry place to do it. plus fecking cold! its again stopped working. ..annoyingly. do you think the parts busted? or other?

if they try to charge me again i'm gonna do this myself.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300778425716?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

anyone used the part from gsfparts on the bay?

I just fitted this before coming to work. Was a pain and broken clip on the first replacement switch :S. however my brake lights work fine now so I'm much happier

Brilliant, Graham. Thanks very much for taking the time. Saved the day!!

Tony

Hello guys, is this guide only for Fabia or also for Octavia mk1 ? I have quite a similar problem, first came the glow plugs flashing... and then i have tried to change the brake bulbs,,, and now the right one bulb even though is new does not light and the glow plug is not flashing anymore :(... But not no brake light on the right side ! :(

Great write up here, cant tell you just how much time and swearing this probably saved me!

I got my switch from skoda on saturday so I would assume its a newish version and as below, it didnt work until I fitted it without pushing the pedal down. Glow plug light went out after a very short time driving.

great guide.

just replaced my broken switch with a black switch from a skoda deale - £12.

it didn't work for us until we didn't push the pedal down when fitting the new switch.

Fantastic!

 

This is what car forums are about.

Great guide just replaced switch this morning ,coil warning light was flashing when engine was running all sorted now

Just replaced this switch on my wifes Fabia (2004 1.4 16v). EPC warning light was on and no brake lights working. Bought the switch from gsfparts on E bay (you can specify exact vehicle details to get the right switch).

Followed this guide for fitting and it was brilliant. Thanks for taking the trouble to post it. Brake lights now all working. EPC light still lit though.

Fantastic guide, 15 mins and it was all off!

Was told around £200 job from the garage.

 

Although, my replacement switch is different.

It's black and the piston part that rests on the arm is plastic and doesn't pull out to reach the arm when the pedal is pressed.

When the pedals up, it's on there, and on there for the first centimeter or so of pedal movement, then it's not touching.

 

The parts shop said that the later model of the sensor (the black plastic one I have) still works the same.

I've also changed the back two bulbs because that's what it said on the diagnostic kit, new sensor and 2 new bulbs.

 

Going to look again and see if it will pull out if I try a bit harder, and hopefully not break it.

On the upside, if I do it's only 6 pound or so with my dads discount.  :clap:

 

e/ took it out, put it back as instructed and connected the wires.

Still doesn't work, and now I can't turn it anti clockwise to get it out, so I think I've broken it.   

 

Anyone got ideas of what I'm doing wrong?

Edited 1 October, 201411 yr by AdamOP94

Fantastic guide, 15 mins and it was all off!

Was told around £200 job from the garage.

 

Although, my replacement switch is different.

It's black and the piston part that rests on the arm is plastic and doesn't pull out to reach the arm when the pedal is pressed.

When the pedals up, it's on there, and on there for the first centimeter or so of pedal movement, then it's not touching.

 

The parts shop said that the later model of the sensor (the black plastic one I have) still works the same.

I've also changed the back two bulbs because that's what it said on the diagnostic kit, new sensor and 2 new bulbs.

 

Going to look again and see if it will pull out if I try a bit harder, and hopefully not break it.

On the upside, if I do it's only 6 pound or so with my dads discount.  :clap:

 

e/ took it out, put it back as instructed and connected the wires.

Still doesn't work, and now I can't turn it anti clockwise to get it out, so I think I've broken it.   

 

Anyone got ideas of what I'm doing wrong?

 

Reading through this thread, I see you do what you refer to as 'black ones' without pressing the pedal.

I've took it out and re installed it numerous times, both pressing the pedal and not and still can't get it to work.

 

Please help me, haha.

I'd hope that you have got this sorted out by now, but, as Tech1e said, these latest (black with BIG top part), need to be fitted with the pedal in the top rested position. I was advised by my VW parts guy to fit it with the pedal down, if you do that, the internal plunger gets locked up in the wrong position - that advice was wrong!  By the way, it is said that these switched are "reusable" - ie get it out and try again, mine worked correctly second time, then I discovered how they are meant to get fitted on the "web"!

Excellent guide thank you. I was such a numbnuts though, I didn't know the switch was adjustable (because I didn't read the guide all the way through!) and my brake lights were left stuck on after I refitted the dash! Stupid "Yeah, it'll be alright" attitude! Had no-one to check or reflections to see, ended up leaning phone against tool bag to video my testing!!

 

Anyway sorted now! I guess this is just a reminder to follow the guide through if you are as stupid as me! 

 

Thanks again.

Just replaced this switch on my wifes Fabia (2004 1.4 16v). EPC warning light was on and no brake lights working. Bought the switch from gsfparts on E bay (you can specify exact vehicle details to get the right switch).

Followed this guide for fitting and it was brilliant. Thanks for taking the trouble to post it. Brake lights now all working. EPC light still lit though.

i still have the epc light and same problem. does anyone have any ideas? should it sort itself out after driving a few mile or is it something a garage would have to fix. fyi, i have just hit 60,000 and due for a service so inspection light has just come on. could this be related?

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What fault code do you have stored?