what kind of sealant did you use? You need to use something which sticks to wet/damp surfaces, otherwise it'll never seal properly. check where you've sealed for any obvious leaks/dribbles of water.

Hope that helps.

Black gutter/roof sealant which does exactly what you say mate ,,, think i'll give it another go at the weekend

I know there are 21 pages to this now with plently of very useful tips, but if you take the time to read them all it is pretty clear on how to do this simple job. :yes:

Edited 5 April, 201115 yr by micklecats

I am agree,

very easy job if follow instructions,

just done my rear ones today, I used profesional car trim adhesive sealant (for free ) so coudnt be more happy

hope that will resolve my really bad ones

My car was in for a service yesterday and got a quote for getting this done because am lazy...

I am now doing it my self I was quoted near £100 for both rear doors iirc!

My car was in for a service yesterday and got a quote for getting this done because am lazy...

I am now doing it my self I was quoted near £100 for both rear doors iirc!

Yeah, it's a ridiculous price to pay for it! My front passenger side door is leaking again... no good :no:

on a plus side ,,, the curtains are working a treat !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My car was in for a service yesterday and got a quote for getting this done because am lazy...

I am now doing it my self I was quoted near £100 for both rear doors iirc!

Not surprised as the Skoda bodge kit to fix this costs almost 45 quid retail. My stealer quoted 180 quid for all four door and that was off the top of his head without examining the computer so you can imagine how many times they do it.

Fix it yourself, you know is is done right. If you put plenty of sealant on and smooth it with a plastic card it won't leak again.

Done my fabia a few weeks ago and it's great now. I have noticed one of the doors on the Octavia has started so the sealant gun will be out again soon.

Anyone know how to completely remove the door card? I followed the video on page 18 and can get it off so its hanging and can rest on seat but I want to remove it completely. Is there any way as I would like to remove them today and then I have time to get sealant and have a look at why the central locking mechanism doesnt consistently work in the rear. Cheers.

Handy tip. If you are doing this and you do not want to take the door card off completely.

A decent size umbrella wedged between the ground and the underneath of the door card will prop up the door card just enough for you to get the sealant gun in to do the job.

Good luck

I done this last night and took them off without too much trouble.

The screw behind the tweeter is the one that could catch you out. It just has to be prised off and the screw removed and then you can battle with the inner window seal as it's very very tight on the top of the doorcard.

The seal on my drivers side was persished away to dust so it removed most of it and replaced it with a B&Q P profile foam door/window seal. It's basically what's on the original panels. Then I put a bead of silicone around the panel for good measure. If I had time to do it properly I would just remove the inner door panel and door lock module in one unit and replace the foam seal all the way round. There would be no real need for the bead of silicon other than piece of mind if it was done properly.

Is it ok to seal all the way around the carrier? I sealed around the whole thing but now realise that the water wont have anywhere to run into atall now. Ive noticed everyone else has just sealed the lower half, should I scrape the seal on the top off?

it's supposed to be a complete seal all the way round anyway.

Thats what I thought, but why has no one else done it on the pics on here?

Because if the water is 2 feet high inside your doors you're either parked in a lake or you've welded up the drain holes in the bottom of the door.

The water only drips out the bottom when the seal is perished.

Just repaired the carriers on my VRS. As mentioned, a very easy job. I used some Tremco Illbruck industrial sealant which has bonded extremely well to the metal. Hoping for things to stay dry... for now

At least 3 of my doors are now showing some signs of this... Got a curtain on the LHR door.

A few questions.

1/ Can someone recommend a sealer/glue that will go on and adhere even if there's wetness about?

2/ Has anyone made more discreet or permanent curtains? ATM mine is a cut up Sainsbury bag and clothes pegs.

3/ Anyone used flashing tape or similar instead of "gunky stuff"?

Can someone recommend a sealer/glue that will go on and adhere even if there's wetness about?

"Plumbers Gold" as I've mentioned before

At least 3 of my doors are now showing some signs of this... Got a curtain on the LHR door.

A few questions.

1/ Can someone recommend a sealer/glue that will go on and adhere even if there's wetness about?

2/ Has anyone made more discreet or permanent curtains? ATM mine is a cut up Sainsbury bag and clothes pegs.

3/ Anyone used flashing tape or similar instead of "gunky stuff"?

I also had 3 doors leaking. I used this Wickes Roof & Gutter Sealant and it seems to have done the trick and can be used in wet conditions.

I used some black plastic bags with some little black plastic mini clamps as curtains, not quite as noticeable as Sainsburys bags.

Good luck with it

Edited 26 June, 201114 yr by peterpickles

Oke thought I'd see if I get a reply here before starting a new thread,

I've so far sealed up both rear and front passenger door, no problems.

BUT I can't for the life of me get the drivers door card off. I can't seem to pop the handle and window switch bit off to gain access to the 3 screws ? is there something different with this door ? driving me nuts lol please help ?

cheers SI

Oke thought I'd see if I get a reply here before starting a new thread,

I've so far sealed up both rear and front passenger door, no problems.

BUT I can't for the life of me get the drivers door card off. I can't seem to pop the handle and window switch bit off to gain access to the 3 screws ? is there something different with this door ? driving me nuts lol please help ?

cheers SI

Strange, I had exactly the same problem. Only brute force and a lot of prising with a small screwdriver seemed to remove it in the end. All the other handles came off easily.

I hope you have sorted it now...

Strange, I had exactly the same problem. Only brute force and a lot of prising with a small screwdriver seemed to remove it in the end. All the other handles came off easily.

I hope you have sorted it now...

I did a lot of searching and I found that skoda use a special tool which they put in a hole under the the armrest to pop the clip holding it in place.

I bent an extra long allen key in an arc put it in the hole and wiggled until I felt it unclip and **POW** window switch bit came off.

I wonder if a haynes manual would have told me this ? never looked in or read one before so not sure on the level of detail they go into.

si

I did a lot of searching and I found that skoda use a special tool which they put in a hole under the the armrest to pop the clip holding it in place.

I bent an extra long allen key in an arc put it in the hole and wiggled until I felt it unclip and **POW** window switch bit came off.

I wonder if a haynes manual would have told me this ? never looked in or read one before so not sure on the level of detail they go into.

si

Glad to hear you sorted it

The Haynes manual is not very detailed. The guides on this site is much easier to follow.

My car was in for a service yesterday and got a quote for getting this done because am lazy...

I am now doing it my self I was quoted near £100 for both rear doors iirc!

I paid 100 quid for one door!!! I'm totally fecked off with the whole leaking doors thing.

I paid 1!!! One pound at poundstore to fix the leaking rear doors on mine! Half a year later on- now I can tell you-Gutter sealant from pondstore does work a treat! not too difficult the process itself! loads of how to's on here and on youtube!

I sealed my nearside rear door with the help of self tappers back in March (page 18). Since then there have been many heavy showers and my carpet is bone dry! Thanks to micklecats for acknowledging and using the idea, hopefully others will also benefit.

I paid 1!!! One pound at poundstore to fix the leaking rear doors on mine! Half a year later on- now I can tell you-Gutter sealant from pondstore does work a treat! not too difficult the process itself! loads of how to's on here and on youtube!

I'll 2nd that! Poundland roof and gutter sealant worked first time every time, smelt nice too.

si