Hey All !

I have been the proud owner of an 02 plate Laurin and Klement MK1 octavia for over a year now and it has given me the best part of 7 months trouble-free motoring having only covered 52,000 miles!

I've decided to start a new topic now though as despite hours of reading existing threads on overboost (code 17965) and popular remedies for getting around it have decided to start my own thread to see if anyone else can help me better pinpoint my problem around this code in VAG COM.

I have spent in excess of around £400 trying to resolve the classic "overboost" problem that seems to strike on these engines.

I have had a new n75 valve fitted, new hoses , boost control sensor, and various other small bits all to no avail, I even tried a rather sizable shot of Miller's Diesel treatment which, although seems to have improved the engine at idle, has not cured the overboost condition.

The only option i had left to try was the Mr Muscle treatment and today, have proceeded to pump some mr muscle into the turbo, and it still seems to have not cured the problem :(

The only other thing I can think of is that I had my car remapped in January by a company called Remap science which I believe took the car from 110 - 140bhp.

There were no signs of this occurring at the time , and it seems to have only developed in recent months. I am still curious however as to whether a remap could cause this overboost behaviour or whether i am missing something else.

Does anyone else on here have experience of a remap science Octavia remap having caused any similar issues (or any other remap for that matter) ? Or can offer any further specific advice for parts I can try swapping out to get my Octavia running smoothly again?

The "limp" seems to kick in around 70 - 80mph when giving the car some beans it suddenly locks in and am unable to then coax any power whatsoever until turning the engine over again.

I would appreciate any advice anyone could offer.

Is there anyone near to the Hertfordshire area even that could offer assistance to me who is experienced with this sort of issue on a Skoda?

I look forward to popping a few photos into the introduce myself section soon

EGR / inlet manifold nice and clean?

Vacuum pipe leak?

Are you getting full (and smooth) travel on the actuator control arm on the turbo?

Has the MAP sensor been changed?

Any logs/graphs of MAP / MAF / duty cycle of the n75 valve.

As a short term you can bypass pretty much all your other vacuum pipework and just drive the n75 and the vacuum ball.

was the mr muscle in for 2hrs? Did you pump actuator repeatedly during this time? If not it may have not worked.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/243533-the-mr-muscle-vnt-turbo-treatment-thought-we-needed-a-guide-of-sorts/

A map has in past and could be the source too though.

Yep had the EGR Valve removed and completely cleaned, was one of the first routes I took.

Unfortunately, I'm not particularly handy when it comes to cars but I need to target specific fixes to try and get my mechanic to fix this as soon as possible as it's starting to turn into a money pit.

I could just drive like a grandad and keep driving it as I am forever, but that's no fun and not always safe on the motorway !

I'm not too sure about the state of the inlent manifold, mind will have to get someone to have a look at that.

Is there a reliable way to check if I have a vacuum pipe leak?

To be fair, the mr muscle was a quick attempt tonight (< 1 hour) as it was getting late. I will have another go perhaps next weekend, wasnt able to spend a great deal of time doing it due to lack of light but some of it went in the hole, gave it a good blast up the motorway and started limping quite quickly after revving high into the gears to try and push the muck out barely made 70mph before limp mode came on...

This is driving me absolutely nuts, am half tempted to have the mapping company put it back to stock (although I've got to go up to them to do that) and even then I guess it may not cure the problem and I'll be 30bhp worse off :(

In that case it won't have worked, and mr muscle will still fix it! It has to be 2hrs and actuater pumped regularly. I tried a shotcut before and no dice. I really have planned it with optimum timings for effectiveness. Have another bash , word for word follow the guide.

You say some of it went in the hole? Did you use a long pipe and insert it right down into turbo as far as it will go? This is crucial, or it will have done nothing at all. Pipe right in until it stops, muscle down pipe til it comes out of hole

Let us know how it goes

Edited 30 September, 201213 yr by Lofty79

I thought all l&k diesels had the 130 engine as standard?

If yours is the 130 and its been remapped for the 110 that'll be your problem

Sent from my Galaxy S2 not a Crapple!

I have a feeling there are some 110L&Ks around, but they are much more rare.

Plus doesn't the 130 have a different type of turbo?

I'm almost 100% it's a 110 variant of the Laurin and Klement, which I found at a used dealer in Middlesex, at the back of the lot feeling rather sorry for itself covered in cobwebs last July.

Pity as the 20BHP would have probably been very useful to have at stock , but it still flies like a rocket when it isn't overboosting, anyway !

Thank you for the advice guys, Lofty I shall give the Mr Muscle a proper good shot with some proper pumping next weekend and report back afterwards, seems I've not quite carried the proceedure out as effectively as I should have.

I am hoping that is the issue as I do tend to just poodle around and only give beans when really necessary on the motorway to overtake (I often change up early).

@mbames - noticed in your sig you have had the overboosting , I take it Mr Muscle sorted it for you?

I fought with my car for years to clear the overboosting issues. I changed the turbo - the problem came back, I cleaned the turbo (took it off) - the problem came back.

I am sure that with my car the root cause of problems was a vacuum leak, so I never got full actuator travel on the turbo when I should have done.

Mr Muscle'd it a couple of months ago and currently it is ok. Pretty sure I have had one instance when it went into limp, but I never got around to clearing the codes after cleaning it. Giving the car some stick (when warm) is a good thing - 3rd gear up a hill is generally the best time to get "limp", and thus suggests most vane movement in the turbo.

I have been the houses with mine. New vacuum hoses, new n75 (twice), new MAF, new CTS, elephant mod, EGR cleaned.

What engine code does your car have? Sticky label under the carpet in the boot, or on the service book - that should confirm if you have 110 or a 130.

Before you start with Mr Muscle, remove the vacuum pipe from the n75 (lower left, iirc) and suck on it while you have your hand on the actuator on the turbo - do you get full, smooth movement? If so then the problem is unlikely to be the vanes / control ring sticking.

Do you have a boost reading? It could be the remappers simply didn't put the boost limiters high enough, so the small spikes you get will trip overboost.

The only way to 100% know the turbo vanes are clear and free is to pull the turbo and clean them. Not cheap or easy though.

We've had similar at work with a mystery boost pressure control deviation error getting logged by a car, where the cause hasn't been obvious. Over the years it had a turbo clean, a N75, a MAF and a pressure sensor, all of which offered an improvement, but it would still occasionally go into limp mode.

It's all sound advice above plus you need to get some data. Logging measuring block 011 should give you requested boost and actual boost and when it goes into limp mode during logging VCDS will allow you to put a marker on that point. We found on that the requested boost peaked at 1950mb and at the point of limp mode it was boosting at 2500mb for a few seconds. After we had fixed it it was still boosting in excess of the requested, though for a shorter time, which I took to mean that the ECU was managing the boost better.

There are indeed L&K110s; I've seen a couple on a 52 plate. Look at the "TDi" badge: If the D is black and the I red, it's a 110. Other indicators I think are that the 130 has a 6-speed gearbox, and DS3 front calipers rather than FS111s.

I've never heard of this mapper, but if they just turned the boost and fuel up, that could be the issue; 140bhp with just those parameters changed might exceed the limits of the standard map error checking.

i did think 140 was alot for that engine, on a basic map

Thanks Guys.

I have no clue how to get a boost reading from the car, does anyone know of anywhere around Hertfordshire that specialises in this sort of Skoda work?

I am very tempted to have the car put back to stock based on the feedback above, even if I have to drive the car 170 miles to where the remappers are based.

But first, I will have another go with the Mr Muscle.

http://www.remapscience.co.uk/ were the guys that did it, they certainly seemed to know what they were doing at least. They have a rolling road to test if you take the car to them.

Edited 1 October, 201213 yr by MurphmanL

Logging boost values is done via VCDS/VAG-COM as Fordfan says.

I followed this guide on the MKIV forum see link here: http://uk-mkivs.net/...spx?PageIndex=1 which I managed to do ok but posted my findings and nobody replied!! I did post my graph on here and the TDI experts confirmed all ok.

For info, the graph I plotted is here http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream which is what it should look like if everything is working properly!

Dan

Edited 1 October, 201213 yr by octaviadan

A friend of mine who helped me do this (unsuccessfully) last week is going away for a few weeks so wont be free to whack in more mr muscle anytime soon :( Anyone on here experienced in doing it close to Hertfordshire who would consider doing it for a few crates of beer?

I am THRILLED to report that the Mr Muscle treatment has worked a TREAT :-D

NO MORE OVERBOOST !!

A good friend of mine spent several hours actuator pumping and squishing some mr muscle in there and into the EGR valve whilst at it and ouila - pulls like an absolute train !

Many thanks to all on here who have offered the advice, only regret is not insisting on having this done first rather than replacing the parts, but hey ho at least they are fresh parts and removes the likelihood of needing to replace any of them anytime in the cars life now pretty much !

With pulling power so strong at stock now, i really do wonder what it would have felt like if i had mr muscle'd it before having it put back to stock the other week !

Cool mate i always like when my thread works for folk. Do us a favor and report on the guide thread so folk can see more people results in one place.

Happy for ya