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The 1.8T diag thread

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I have to wait 30 days for my injectors, they are out of stock :wall:

I have finally managed to sort out fuel starvation when using in tank walbro pump. Ordered from ebay the biggest sock available, little bigger then the housing. It was a pita do get it in but with a little help from wd-40 she slide in, also the big/main hole at the bottom of the housing from which pump sucks fuel must be plugged and two smaller holes must be drilled on the bottom of the housing to prevent swirl pot draining to fast. This prevents fuel starvation when cornering.

Any pics buddy.

I have not had starvation issues yet on mine. I have the same pump that has the large mesh hole in the centre of bottom pump. What did you block it with and how big holes did you drill.

Sent from my Galaxy S3.

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  • Hi Folks a update on my issues   I decided to remove the solder and re crimp the extended wires. This had no effect and i still got low down hesitation   So I think perhaps the hesitation is not

  • how is your boost gauge connected?

  • My modified version

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I didn`t take any pictures but I did it according to this guide; http://www.golfgtifo...=212466.0;nowap

Only thing different is that you and I are using GSS340 which has big center hole. I have raised the pump inlet 3mm higher than stock pump so it can suck fuel from side holes of the swirl pot.

It doesn`t sit as low as yours,your pump practically sits on the gauze, right?

Also what I have noticed is that the fuel starvation is happening only with raised fuel pressure from 3 to 4 bar but I`m not 100% about this.

Edited by Gonzaga

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Right.

Done a compression test but may have screwed it up. As all four came back as 200 psi. I didn't hold the throttle open whilst doing it so like I say that result may be skewed.

Right.

Done a compression test but may have screwed it up. As all four came back as 200 psi. I didn't hold the throttle open whilst doing it so like I say that result may be skewed.

It doesn't really matter what the numbers are (as long as there not mega low), if all 4 are within 10% of eachother then you don't have an issue with compression.

iirc all 4 of mine were 180psi and I didn't open the throttle either :)

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Cool so there's life in the old dog yet. That was a very hot test. I litterally pulled up and tested.

So what exactly does the test rule out ???

Spoken to a local expert again today. He did say last week that it was highly unlikely that the rings had gone. He also has the linear pedal and vvt patch for the map ;-)

All in good time lol

I still need to get the boost leak tester on there at some point. Just to be 100 percent.

Kinda lost again now lol

I can't remember, but have you logged blcok 060 and block 001 at the same time ?

060 shows what the throttle is doing, if your asking for 100% at high revs and it starts closing then I would put money on it being a fueling issue still.

EDIT: it's been a while now, it might be block 062

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I don't think I have tried that combo yet. Can do I in the morning. My netbook is getting a fair bit of use these days. I did change the fuel filter back last year. Which thinking about it cured an issue then. I'll see if I can find the thread.

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Oh yeah he did a test to check if the cat was good/not blocked. This involved revving the crap out of it to get it hot. Reckoned this would get the cat really hot if it was knackered Whilst he did this there was a bit of black smoke which is unburnt fuel. I'll bung up some pics in 5 of the plugs which show lean running. Again... confused lol

Revving an engine when stationary, isn't the same as when your hard on the throttle in the higher gears.

It's possible for it to be mega rich when stationary at 5500 - 6000rpm but lean at the same rpm, when you add load and boost into the equation.

  • Author

I think he was trying to get the cat hot rather than anything else, he did say the wind cools it too much on the road.

In order backwards four to one

4.

20130430_181956_zps6b7ed265.jpg

3.

2013-04-30182516_zps251c640d.jpg

2.

2013-04-30202010_zps95b9dcdb.jpg

1.

2013-04-30202834_zps87096d37.jpg

3,2,1, look oily because of spillage when filling lol, shaky hands, wind and full five litre cans don't mix, or because my plug socket is still minging from the leaky rocker cover gasket, at least I think so !!

He reckoned the oil use is more than likely turbo seals which leak into the exhaust and get burnt before I'll ever see it as smoke, he said just keep using the oil and do something about when it becomes visible.

So it looks like it's leaning out, what causes lean again .....LMAO.

And here is cylinder two, they all looked like this mind you, very crappy black carbon in the, which I have read could up the compression, which could be why I got 200 psi !!

20130430_202142_zps397cade3.jpg

The pic of plug 4 isn't showing up, but the other 3 look pretty normal, remember when your cruising about the car will be running around lambda (14.7afr) which is lean, so the plug tips will be white, but the outside of the plug is black, which means it has seen some rich fueling.

The problem with these cars, is the ecu is too damn clever for it's own good at times, it detects that the car is lean, so it closes the throttle, this then forces the car to run rich as the load and boost both drop the fuel system can then cope again, so even when on the dyno it's not easy to workout what is going on.

What fpr and fuel pump did you try using ?

New or used, and where they 3bar or 4bar ?

Also did you try 1 then the other, or both together ?

  • Author

Pic should be ok now, was editing just a sec ago

I did the 3 Bar FPR on thursday, from Billys 112k mint engine, and the fuel pump last night from an 1.8T Golf which was flying along this time last week until the oil strainer struck, so as far I know they are both tip top.

I'm currently running Billy's DV, MAF, N75, and FPR, gonna switch it all back tomorrow as mine are all behaving the same.

Pic should be ok now, was editing just a sec ago

I did the 3 Bar FPR on thursday, from Billys 112k mint engine, and the fuel pump last night from an 1.8T Golf which was flying along this time last week until the oil strainer struck, so as far I know they are both tip top.

I'm currently running Billy's DV, MAF, N75, and FPR, gonna switch it all back tomorrow as mine are all behaving the same.

See this is basicly what I was doing, swapping parts with used parts of a similar age and mileage (well 2002 - 2004 and 92k - 104k).

Swapping between the standard fuel pumps etc didn't change anything, I then borrowed a used cupra R fuel pump that had done around 100k, and again nothing changed, even when used with a 4bar fpr.

But then I fitted a new cupra R 4bar fuel pump, and with the 3bar reg still nothing changed, but with the 4bar reg fitted, the issue's went away and the car was suddenly running rich.

Then I removed the 4bar reg, and refitted the 3bar reg with cupra R injectors and had it remapped to suit.

With my road car, as I said last night, I am seeing similar issue's now that I have changed the map on it to one that is more agressive, as this car runs a 4bar fpr, I will simply swap the pump from the track car, and see if that cures it then :)

  • Author

So give me your best shot at what I need to log to check fueling and O2 stuff.

You tell me and I'll log it !!

block 001, 060 and 062 first off, as I can't remember if it's 060 or 062 that gives the requested and actual throttle position.

Then block 001, 002 and 032 as this will show what your fueling is doing, what your maf is reading and then your short and long term fuel trims.

But you need to use all revs, and in 3rd and 4th gear really, so nip to cardiff airport in the morning and borrow there runway for 2 mins ;)

  • Author

But you need to use all revs, and in 3rd and 4th gear really, so nip to cardiff airport in the morning and borrow there runway for 2 mins ;)

Cool.

As always, I ring ahead and they open the gate down the end of the runway.

I'll make a nice new folder for the logs, so's not too mix them all up.

You can monitor in real time what is going on with you AFR.

Log meas group 031 and gun it in 3rd and 4rd gear from 2000rpm to redline.

First group shows what lambda sensor see and second one what ECU is requesting, it is in volts. After you finished in excel multiply those values with 14.7.

Usually when everything is ok, you should see values going from 15@2000rpm to close 11@6500rpm. And there shouldn`t be any jumps in value,something like this 14.1,14.0,13.5,15.0, 13.

  • Author

You can monitor in real time what is going on with you AFR.

Log meas group 031 and gun it in 3rd and 4rd gear from 2000rpm to redline.

First group shows what lambda sensor see and second one what ECU is requesting, it is in volts. After you finished in excel multiply those values with 14.7.

Usually when everything is ok, you should see values going from 15@2000rpm to close 11@6500rpm. And there shouldn`t be any jumps in value,something like this 14.1,14.0,13.5,15.0, 13.

Should I be logging rpm in with this as well ??

Heres block 31 on it's own under normal driving traffic

LOG-01-031-xxx-xxx.CSV

Looks like the actual and spec are slightly out too me !!

  • Author

post-8833-0-43450300-1367415750_thumb.jp

Shouldn't they be equal ???

They should be overlapping each other if you use Vag scope, also log rpm because it`s essential. AFR falls from 15ish to 11ish as rpm increase. Don`t log crap,push start when you are in 3rd gear and immediately stop as you hit 7000rpm.

Also don`t take your foot off the pedal, it MUST be pushed all the way.

Edited by Gonzaga

  • Author

How do I get rpm to show on the left of the excel graphs ??

You can monitor in real time what is going on with you AFR.

Log meas group 031 and gun it in 3rd and 4rd gear from 2000rpm to redline.

First group shows what lambda sensor see and second one what ECU is requesting, it is in volts. After you finished in excel multiply those values with 14.7.

Usually when everything is ok, you should see values going from 15@2000rpm to close 11@6500rpm. And there shouldn`t be any jumps in value,something like this 14.1,14.0,13.5,15.0, 13.

It logs in lambda not volts ;)

Ok today I have been playing, and this might help you, or it might not lol.

But my road vrs, was closing the throttle at 6000rpm since I changed the map.

Well the setup was standard injectors, 3bar fuel pump, 4bar fuel reg = lean top end.

So I pulled the 4bar pump from the track car and went for a drive and the issue is gone.

So I then tried the 3bar pump in the track car and that is also fine.

SO....

Standard injectors + 4bar fuel pump + 4bar fuel reg = no issue's

Cupra R injectors + 3bar fuel pump + 3bar fuel reg = no issue's

  • Author

Only thing that springs too mind is that yours is stg 2 isn't it ???

Mines only a mild tune so probably doesn't ask as much of the fuelling. Mine has been at this point of tuning for years so nothing has changed. Just a sudden drop in performance.

I'll add a little interesting info in a bit. Over me mams a sec and tea is ready lol

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