DIY Lower Grille

[33q]

Thank you for the comments made about my grille. To help others who want to go down the DIY route I hope the following guide will help.

I wanted the grille to look integrated, to be ready removable without tools (for servicing, cleaning etc). I wanted no permanent fixings to the car….and I didn’t want visible fixings.

Parts needed

· Grille mesh….I already had some from a Cmax project that didn’t get done. It’s freely available from eBay. I chose black satin aluminium. Honeycomb mesh.

· Trim for the edge. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STD-Black-Car-EDGE-TRIM-SEAL-PVC-Rubber-Caravan-Trailer-Camper-Van-RV-4x4-/321030895962?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4abeeeb95a

· 2 lengths of 9mm aluminium angle from B&Q to stiffen the top and bottom and to give the correct curvature. I can’t find a link but for those familiar with B&Q I’m sure you will manage.

· Black satin paint to colour match the aluminium angle

· 4 tool clips…25mm size. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390531870686?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

· 4 self tappers….I used recycled ones from an old storage heater. About 6mm long. I used a 2.5mm drill as a pilot’

· 4 lengths of black cable tie to tighten the ‘waists’ of the tool slips.

· A length of black hot melt glue stick to weld the top joints. You could use black silicon sealer or Tiger seal. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270751294970?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Tools

· Some stiff card to make a template for the grille opening and some small nuts bolts and washers to secure the card to the mesh to transfer the shape from card to mesh. A template is easier…trust me. And you will never hold it firm without temporarily fixing it.

· Scissors to cut the card template

· Tin snips or similar to cut the mesh

· Gloves to protect your hands whilst cutting the mesh and fitting the edge trim. Believe me, mesh makes a mess of your hands!

· Small paint brush

· Bent nose, long nose pliers to insert the aluminium angle into the edge trim

· Masking tape and a marker pen

· Cordless or hand drill and 2.5mm drill bit

· Screwdriver to fit the self tappers – PZ1 in my case

· Glue gun

· Bench to work on and an anatomical bending device….also known as a knee!

….and so to the workshop

· Cut the template to fit the grille opening…and then cut about 4mm off all round to give clearance for the edge trim.

· Fasten the cardboard template to the mesh with the nuts, bolts and washers and cut the mesh

· Fit the edge trim to the mesh. Bend the trim ‘back’ to open the slot and carefully seat the trim. Mine runs in a ‘U’ shape and the top is a separate piece.

· Check the assembly fits the aperture and adjust if required. You will need 3 hands to bend it back to the vertical slats.

· Cut the aluminium angle to fit the top and bottom. The top goes all the way across the bottom needs to be about 70mm short each end to allow for the slight upward curvature of the lower part of the grille.

· Paint the aluminium angle…..and let it dry! Tea at this point is good.

· Fit the angle into the edge trim. It goes in OK but I found it seated really well using the bent nose pliers

· Check the fit of the grille again and bend the top and bottom to suit the grille curvature. I did this by trial and error using my hands and knee. Be careful not to buckle the assembly. Bit at a time…softly softly…etc

· Once you are happy with the fit attach a small length of masking tape to the top and bottom edges and mark where the vertical grille bars are. The tool clips grip around these.

· Drill some small holes through the back of the edge trim and into the aluminium using the masking tape/marker positions. Be careful not to drill into the front face of the edge trim.

· Screw on the tool clips, fix the cable tie around the waist of the tool clip to increase the tension

· Seal edges with glue gun etc

· Click it into place and admire your hard work.

· It might be an idea to road test the car at this point stopping off to buy flowers and perhaps book a meal to appease your wife who had probably suffered the worst of your temper during the construction period. She likely to have put the plasters on your hands because real men don’t wear gloves.

And finally…

I really did enjoy making this and I am very pleased with the result. It was not a cheap option but that wasn’t the point. Hopefully I will not suffer another holed radiator on a dark M1 at midnight like I did with my Honda Civic many years ago.

It was not straightforward….the above is how I would do it next time.

I dread to think how much it really cost to experiment but I don’t drink or smoke, have plenty of time, a super workshop and treat my car as a hobby. All the unused bits will eventually come in for some other project.

Nigel

[Brijo]

^^ :clap: :clap: :clap:

[mannyo]

Excellent guide, moved to pride of place in the Yeti Technical guides section.

[ejstubbs]

Many thanks for posting this extremely useful guide! I can at last think seriously about using that mesh I bought ages back.

Regarding the aluminium angle, B&Q list the following in 10mm x 10mm - I couldn't find any 9mm on their web site:

- 1000mm anodised

- 1000mm raw

- 2000mm anodised

- 2000mm raw

Are any of them right for this project? (I'd guess that raw would be adequate. no need for anodised.) Any idea whether 1m would be enough? (Although it's only a couple of quid at the end of the day, and I'm sure any left over would come in useful for something else another time. My garage is chock full of material like that...)

One thing you could clarify for me is exactly how the angle fits in to the edge trim. As I read your photo, the 'leg' of the angle that doesn't go under the edge trim projects inwards, and in doing so provides a convenient ledge for the tool clip to butt up against. Is that right?

[Llanigraham]

Isn't it like this:

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/hardware/ironmongery/sheet_metal___profile_metal/-specificproducttype-metal_corners/FFA-Concept-Anodised-Aluminium-Corner-L-1000mm-x-W-10mm-x-H-15mm-9283870

or

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/hardware/ironmongery/sheet_metal___profile_metal/-specificproducttype-u_profile_metal/FFA-Concept-Anodised-Aluminium-L-1000mm-x-W-23mm-x-H-10mm-9283881

??

[33q]

I'm sure the sides are 9mm by 9mm angle. Mine was a metre length times 2 . Just tried to find a scrap but I must have put it somewhere safe!

10mm is fine.....It was £1.84 per length....just says ALUM ANGLE on receipt...no code or anything.

and raw is fine....it's painted ....and hidden.

.....and yes....one side of the angle is pushed inside of the edge trim and the other side does provide a ledge for the clip....and the clip retaining screw goes into the aluminium.

Nigel

[ejstubbs]

Well, thanks to EeebygumBay and Byonkew I now have all the materials necessary to have a go at replicating Nigel's minor miracle. (The excess tool clips will come in handy in the shed, reducing the risk of being clouted on the bonce by falling rakes, hoes and similar horticultural toolmongery.) If the wind dies down enough over the weekend I might even be able to hold a piece of cardboard in place in the front of the car long enough to make a template.

For anyone wondering where to get suitable mesh, I bought mine from this listing on eBay. The seller does loads of different styles so even if you don't like that one you'll likely be able to find one you do like. Shipping was pretty prompt.

Now then, where did I put my tin snips...

[33q]

Hope it goes well. We have the builders in this week so car tinkering is having to take a back seat.

[175GDY]

Installed the mesh behind the grille. Both upper and lower grille.

[CHILLEY]

Hi,  for the lower grill on my Yeti, I used 'Rolson' Plastic gutter mesh, it's the correct hight for the lower grill, I just had to trim the edges for the length, push it though the one of the grill holes spred it out behind the grill with long nose pliers, then used

the smallest black cable ties, you have to bend them to come back on them selves, tighten them up and and push the little

fastner round towards the back of the grill rib so you dont't see the fastner. job done,

 

The other day I found a stone in the mesh so it works, the mesh is very strong and looks great, you just don't see the black cable tie's make sure the tie's are at the far ends.

 

Look on Amazon for the mesh.

 

[Great Yeti]

Hi CHILLEY 

 

WOW I have some of that stuff already! I was going to go down the Metal Mesh route but this may be even easier. Could we please have some pictures to see how it looks when finished..................Tony

[Brijo]

Hi Chilley and welcome.  Especially as you turn up with what could be a very good idea!  As Tony says - any pics. please?

[CHILLEY]

Sorry I have not back to you all, regards the 'Gutter Mesh' for the lower yeti grill, I am unable to put photo's on this site. all I can say it so simple to do

looks great, I used 4 cable ties, you can use as meny as you like, I only fiited them to the horizontal bars. I also made a little tool with an 'L' shaped end

to it so I could pull the mesh towards the bars, then bend the small thin black cable ties into a letter 'U' so they come back out a gain to fasten.
:angel:

[Kenny R]

I might just give this a try, £6 for a roll of gutter mesh, nothin to lose.

[Brijo]

I've had the kit for several weeks (a roll of mesh and a packet of black ties at £1 each from - wait for it - the Pound Shop) but free time and a weather window haven't coincided yet.  Anyone else in the game?

[KaroqKent]

I haven't got my hands on my Yeti yet but I have the mesh and as soon as I know which length of cable ties I need I'll get them as well.

 

Should get the car tomorrow so I could be trying this out at the weekend if I get everything else done that needs doing (mud flaps, stubby aerial, accent trim (interior and exterior) Briskoda sticker, etc.).

[KaroqKent]

I've just finished installing the Rolson gutter mesh behind my lower grill. I used 2.5mm x 100mm cable ties on the vertical slats but had to go up to 3.5mm x 140mm for the horizontal slats.

 

Quite happy with the results (especially for the price) and happy that the air con radiator has some extra protection now. 

[Brijo]

I've just finished ..

You win!  :clap:

[Kenny R]

Yep, you win, I've got the mesh and cable ties, weather not nice for fitting though, maybe in the spring.

[Brijo]

^ Kenny - I reckon it must be a bit warmer down there in Kent than up in the hills, don't you?

[KaroqKent]

I would attach a picture but I can't seem to work out how. I've tried selecting a .JPG file using the "More Reply Options" screen but when I click on "attach file" file my computer just locks up "waiting for Briskoda.net" and then returns an empty box where the selected file should be. I've checked out the youtube video and can't see what I'm doing wrong. :(

[7029bob]

Neil

I found the easiest way was through Photo Bucket, if you put Photo Bucket into the Briskoda search there is a detailed description how to do it.

I managed and I'm not exactly up to date with technology.

[KaroqKent]

 

Not sure how big this photo is going to be so not sure whether you'll be able to see the Rolson gutter mesh behind the lower grille.

[Brijo]

You must have made some sort of template first - any tips?

[KaroqKent]

No template, just a quick measurement and cut about 730mm off the mesh roll. Having fed it through the lower grille I used long nose pliers, as per CHILLEY's instructions, to position the mesh and then thin garden wire to hold in place.

 

This is easy to fold to form the U shape which can then be fed through the mesh and wrapped around the grille whilst you perform the trickiest part of the whole operation, feeding through the cable ties. I probably overdid the cable ties using eight on the vertical slats and another four on the horizontal slats.

 

Once the cable ties are in place they can be trimmed and the temporary garden wire snipped and removed. The whole process should only take 30-45 minutes depending on how cold your fingers get and how much patience/skill/luck you have with the cable ties!