Buying a CRD-T tuning box from DTUK

[nestorint]

Hi Andrew. How is a progress on testing of new firmware?

Yesterday my car engine stall and I got Check Engine light on. I had to remove DTUK and after resetting ECU (disconcerting battery for 3 hours) its running fine.

As of now I don't want to use DTUK at the present state, I afraid to damage engine or DSG.

Please give me a good news.

[xpower]

Hi Andrew. How is a progress on testing of new firmware?

Yesterday my car engine stall and I got Check Engine light on. I had to remove DTUK and after resetting ECU (disconcerting battery for 3 hours) its running fine.

As of now I don't want to use DTUK at the present state, I afraid to damage engine or DSG.

Please give me a good news.

You don't need to disconnect the battery for 3 hours to remove the management light. Simply switch ignition off, unplug the box fit the planking plug in and restart the engine - light will go out.

If the management light has come on, just turn the box setting down starting with the jumpers then moving to the main maps.

ie. if the light came on running 4.2 try 4.1 - if it comes on still try 4.0 then 3.2

Simples :-D

[nestorint]

You don't need to disconnect the battery for 3 hours to remove the management light. Simply switch ignition off, unplug the box fit the planking plug in and restart the engine - light will go out.

If the management light has come on, just turn the box setting down starting with the jumpers then moving to the main maps.

ie. if the light came on running 4.2 try 4.1 - if it comes on still try 4.0 then 3.2

Simples :-D

Thank you XPOWER for your advise and if you read my comments above I did tried to lower output with jumper settings. I didn't try to go to negative territory though (i.e. 4. -1 .-2) do you know btw what represent those settings? There are 4 different fuel maps I understand, what are jumper settings represents -3...+3? Boost?Or is it also dial down into map table?

Go down in power band with jumper settings (let say it boost) will it give increase of 5 hp? Does it worth to spend more than 300 pounds for this increase? Off course these questions is up for individual who purchase DTUK to answer ...

[Andrew@DTUK]

All 4 maps increase the power over standard, the + amplifies the map the - reduces the power

[Andrew@DTUK]

What setting were you using serge? And what's the current ambient temperature ?

[nestorint]

The temp is: + 20 to + 26 C.

I run the Map 2 -1

[Such]

I'm currently having problems with eml although I dropped map from 4+2 to 4+1 and ran 4+1 for 1000 miles for eml to come on again.

Have fitted blanking plug for now and so far no issues with any warning lights.

Had a reply from andrew who has passed this onto someone else, who has not replied to my emails sent earlier this week.

So I'll leave it off for a while until I can eliminate any fault, but so far covered 600 miles without it

[Brooksuk]

Hmmm. Won't be buying one of those then.

[Andrew@DTUK]

I'm currently having problems with eml although I dropped map from 4+2 to 4+1 and ran 4+1 for 1000 miles for eml to come on again.

Have fitted blanking plug for now and so far no issues with any warning lights.

Had a reply from andrew who has passed this onto someone else, who has not replied to my emails sent earlier this week.

So I'll leave it off for a while until I can eliminate any fault, but so far covered 600 miles without it

Simons been emailing you but his emails have been bouncing back, I've been in n out of the office this week as my wife is due to give birth in 5 weeks and our 15 month old was taken into hospital last weekend.

So all in all the week has been a shambles

We've ran our own Skoda now for over 5.000 miles on map 4 plus 1 which is what I/we recommend without any issues whatsoever. As soon as we select plus 2 we see an engine management light.

I have mentioned several times about which settings should be used as going too high can upset the car and by the sounds of it this is exactly what's happened.

If you send your system back I'll swap it with the kit off our own VRS that hasn't skipped a beat and well run your kit on our car and see if we can replicate the issue.

I know of several new 150/184 on the continent and the uk that have had boost sensor faults and these are cars that ARE NOT tuned . So there could well be an underlying issue with the car that the box has amplified

But as I've suggested, return your kit and I'll send you ours and well see if we can replace your issue, and if you have issues with our kit then this would suggest an underlying issue somewhere

If you mark it for my attention I'll get it swapped and turned around ASAP and sorry for not replying earlier

[Andrew@DTUK]

Hmmm. Won't be buying one of those then.

Faults and problems occur and as per my reply above, we pride ourselves on sorting issues.

If this was a common problem this thread would be full of issues, but from what I've read it's 99% positive replies and well hopefully get to the bottom of the issues mentioned above

[Andrew@DTUK]

The temp is: + 20 to + 26 C.

I run the Map 2 -1

Serge

Have you checked the cables for physical damage? We ship the kits worldwide as you know and are currently tuning 15/20 of these engines a week .

Please drop me an email or as I suggested a while ago if you can send the PCb board back to us I can test it for you

[Andrew@DTUK]

Such, when I say kit I mean the box itself. If you send the whole box and loom back to me I'll replace the loom as long as there are no physical signs of damage but send you our module with a brand new loom . We have an adapter cable and can run the older 170 loom on our 184 to see if we can get it too fault, as if there is a problem with the look or box it will cause issues on any vat the kit is fitted too.

[Such]

Such, when I say kit I mean the box itself. If you send the whole box and loom back to me I'll replace the loom as long as there are no physical signs of damage but send you our module with a brand new loom . We have an adapter cable and can run the older 170 loom on our 184 to see if we can get it too fault, as if there is a problem with the look or box it will cause issues on any vat the kit is fitted too.

Andrew, sorry to hear your little one is in hospital. I hope he/she gets well and is home soon.

I will check my email as I have been receiving, but have had a problem sending mail.

I will send the kit back next week as I now have the loom off, but if it is ok then you can send the same one back.

Will the box you are currently using on your MK3 VRS work on my MK2?

As I said before, I ran on 4+2 for about 1000 miles if not more before any problems occurred, and then same amount of mileage on4+1 before the eml came on.

The car felt the most responsive at 4+2 though

I do appreciate you taking time out, during what must be a stressful time, to reply, and wish you and your family all the best

Paul

[Andrew@DTUK]

Hi Paul the mk3 box can and will be reprogrammed for your car bud

I'll send a new loom with my PCb board and run your kit on ours and thanks for being understanding

[nestorint]

No visible damage to a loop. Actually when I said I removed DTUK, I just plugged blank plug that came with the kit and after that problem goes away, so it seems not a problem with a cables.

I'll send you e-mail about board. 

Serge
Have you checked the cables for physical damage? We ship the kits worldwide as you know and are currently tuning 15/20 of these engines a week .

Please drop me an email or as I suggested a while ago if you can send the PCb board back to us I can test it for you

 

Serge
Have you checked the cables for physical damage? We ship the kits worldwide as you know and are currently tuning 15/20 of these engines a week .

Please drop me an email or as I suggested a while ago if you can send the PCb board back to us I can test it for you

[WaveyDavey]

Just wondering if there are any graphs around showing the CRD2+ and CRD-T performance when fitted to the CR140?

Cheers

Dave.

[Andrew@DTUK]

Just wondering if there are any graphs around showing the CRD2+ and CRD-T performance when fitted to the CR140?

Cheers

Dave.

We've only even dynod 170 tdis with our CRDT module, never a 140 for some reason.

[xpower]

Just wondering if there are any graphs around showing the CRD2+ and CRD-T performance when fitted to the CR140?

Cheers

Dave.

If the gains are anything like the box fitted to my CR 184 mk3 they are outstanding. The engines got 3000 mile on it now and it's really loosening up - it's getting better and better :-)

Edited 9 June, 2014 by xpower

[nestorint]

Andrew any update on newer firmware version? 
The only way to partially prevent (when engine cold this behavior still persist but to lesser extent than on maps 2, 3, 4) jerking behavior of the car is to switch to map 1 .0

 When engine in normal operational temp. RPM goes up and down + - 200-300 rpm withing 1-2 seconds interval when engine idle.

This car behavior drives me nuts when it fitted with the box.

[Andrew@DTUK]

Andrew any update on newer firmware version?

The only way to partially prevent (when engine cold this behavior still persist but to lesser extent than on maps 2, 3, 4) jerking behavior of the car is to switch to map 1 .0

When engine in normal operational temp. RPM goes up and down + - 200-300 rpm withing 1-2 seconds interval when engine idle.

This car behavior drives me nuts when it fitted with the box.

As I've said before we need to kit back to test/evaluate it

[WaveyDavey]

We've only even dynod 170 tdis with our CRDT module, never a 140 for some reason.

 

 

Do i get a further discount if you use mine for the readings then???

 

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Dave.

[nestorint]

As I've said before we need to kit back to test/evaluate it

Do you want to send me RMA # and address where to ship back to you?

[Such]

Hi Paul the mk3 box can and will be reprogrammed for your car bud

I'll send a new loom with my PCb board and run your kit on ours and thanks for being understanding

 

Andrew, just some feedback, have been running box on 4, 2 for nearly 2000 miles so far, with no issues.

 

Hope family is well

 

All the best

[VRSPhil]

Mine arrived next day (well it would have, had I been at home to receive it!).

Box and loom appear nice quality. The look seems well measured to allow comfortable slack to reach the required connectors and position the box in a safe location, without the need to use too many cable ties.

Fitting time was about 15 minutes. In reality, it's a 2 minute job to plug in the four connectors, but I took a few minutes to route the cables etc. for now, the box is wedged with some foam between the battery and air filter... I think I'll look at some Velcro for a more permanent solution.

I've only driven the car about a mile so far and it was in a built up area... More of a test to ensure the engine still works and will get me to work tonight, than a performance test.

Mine came set to map 4 and I've switched it to 4+1 as suggested above. I'll see how I get on during my 70- mile round commute tonight!

I'm not one for blowing smoke up people's a***s, but credit where it's due, Andrew actually text me mid order to let me know I had made a mistake and was about to miss out on the discount. It leaves me confident that should I have any problems, the customer service is likely to be good. Top man.

Will update later with my thoughts on the performance side of things.

[nestorint]

Do you want to send me RMA # and address where to ship back to you?

Andrew I didn't got any e-mail from you. I want to send the unit back to you.

Now I cannot even run on map 1, If the engine was petrol I would say it misfiring