Does that say 224hp?

I can also see 100% drivetrain efficiency! which confuses me! especially with a 4x4.

But then again I no very little about all this.

we had 254 hp before he started to map it, so I hope not 

 

 

Now we just need the scaling!

 

Off to collect it tomorrow, so will publish the results. OR should I keep them private and see if people can guess.

 

 One thing Wayne did say is that he has mapped it more balanced then out and out bhp at maximum revs apparently better drivability, after all it is torque that does the work.

It could be 224 at the wheels, which with 4MO drivetrain losses would probably be close to 280bhp crank??

I'm expecting 300-320.

It is a decent size V6 after all.

It looks to be dynod in 2wd mode ie. Yank the Haldex fuse

It looks to be dynod in 2wd mode ie. Yank the Haldex fuse

It is being dyno'd in two wheel drive, I think it is fuse 31 that was pulled, this kills the ABS and the Haldex, something to do with wheel sensors, I am going this morning to see for myself the results and to arrange collecting the Golf tomorrow as i need the trailer.

I reckon around 280bhp, it's only a low boost setup don't forget.... The next hike up in power will be super expensive and cost him a set of custom made low compression pistons.

I reckon around 280bhp, it's only a low boost setup don't forget.... The next hike up in power will be super expensive and cost him a set of custom made low compression pistons.

I have read on VR6 forum (so it has to be true) that I can change the injectors to 630cc, fit a head spacing compression drop plate and run up to 25psi, this will give circa 400 hp depending on turbo choice, all ok on the standard rods and pistons.

 

 Here is what United Motorsport has to say about it;

 

400hp is VERY easy to get on these engines, but its how that 400hp is delivered that you need to pay attention too.

Use a small frame turbo with a small turbine and you'll make 400hp with HUGE torque down low that will destroy clutches and gearboxs and drive horribly; or you can use a bigger frame turbo with bigger a turbine housing to produce 400hp with a decent torque curve. Your gearbox and clutch will have more respect for you this way and the car will drive 100  times better.

My advice to you is to NOT to listen to peoples OPINIONS on forums, as that is just what it is; The opinion of SOMEONE else. Another other reason is over half of them have no experience of what they talk about.

There is an over whelming amount of info about this in the net, if you have to ask, "Does xyz work" and you cant find the answer on the net, the chances are that it doesn't work.

Stock bottom end

8:1 cylinder head spacer plate

Turbo (my personal preference on the 12v is the GT35R with a 1.06 AR turbine, ive tried 'em all)

440cc injectors

95mm MAF with decent software

This will make 400hp everyday, and youll be able to drive it those days too 

Fuel pumps, be careful. Over half the walbro stuff out there is Chinese copy and the same goes for the bosch 044. The bosch 044 is very old technology now that is very noisey and doesnt really support alot of power, as some people will have you believe. Have a look at some of the new technology pumps that you can just drop in your tank 

 

I have the head spacer already, so will be looking for some injectors and a big MAF, also my car is 24v and not 12v as described above.

Just spoken to Wayne and paid him, he has squeezed 280.6bhp at 6450rpm and 274 lb/ft torque at 4300rpm with 6psi boost, so I am quite happy with these figures, from a stock block and piston, he has also made sure that things like the knock sensor are working within there limits so the engine should be safe for use.

Sounds ideal Jay, it's all about area under the graph as you know!

Look forward to seeing it in action at some point soon!

Been to get some new discs today, I opted for EBC grooved discs, also managed to get a trolley box to go under my top tool box, don't tell the wife!

 

Been to get some new discs today, I opted for EBC grooved discs, also managed to get a trolley box to go under my top tool box, don't tell the wife!

 

 

Are they the Ultimax (USR) Jamie?  I had those with the Brembo's on Fabia, nice discs and the black coating kept the non-swept parts looking tidy.

Are they the Ultimax (USR) Jamie?  I had those with the Brembo's on Fabia, nice discs and the black coating kept the non-swept parts looking tidy.

No mate, they are the GD version, a bit cheaper than USR's  

Where is wayne working from now? He packed up from his premises in milnrow over two years and was supposed to be going mobile. Never heard or seen anything of him since. Sorry to thread hi-jack

Fitted my new discs and pads today, weather was lovely and I had a bit of help too. Bermuda's could do with a lick of paint but not too bothered, the mechanical parts all work well so cleaned them up and slotted the new pads in, they are so easy to change makes me wonder why other types of calliper are so awkward!

 

 Old pads were definitely ready for replacing as you can see.

 

 

 

 

Here is my helper, Winston, never left my side the whole time I was outside 

 

 

 

New Discs fitted.

 

 

New Pads too, DS3000's

 

 

 I also have the front off the car so I can fit the oil cooler, this is proving a pain as the take off plate is confusing Mocal, whilst the front is off I am removing the A/C radiator, pump and everything else to reduce a bit of weight, new shorter ancillary belt has been ordered too.

Where is wayne working from now? He packed up from his premises in milnrow over two years and was supposed to be going mobile. Never heard or seen anything of him since. Sorry to thread hi-jack

 Wayne is working out of Nine Meister in Warrington, he is also mobile, I had to jump the queue with him as he has so much work on he is difficult to track down, a mate of mine knows him well so he squeezed me in as a favour.

Wayne is working out of Nine Meister in Warrington, he is also mobile, I had to jump the queue with him as he has so much work on he is difficult to track down, a mate of mine knows him well so he squeezed me in as a favour.

No wonder ive not heard anything then if hes based in warrington now lol. Cheers mate.

After fitting the pads and discs I decided to remove the A/C and look at getting my oil cooler fitted, Demon Tweeks do oil cooler kits so I rang them, they don't do a kit for the VR6 MK 4, they asked me to remove the bits where the sandwich plate will fit and fetch them in, so I did, and they still had to call Mocal to see what they recommend, as it stands my car looks like this;

 

 

 

This is where the oil cooler will take its feed from, it is on top of the oil filter housing, the part that fits there now is a small heat exchanger that has oil and water running through it, my plan is to remove this and put a thermostatic Mocal sandwich plate on there to feed an external cooler. The water feed for the old item will just be looped.

 

 

 

 

Final job after removing the A/C aluminium pipes from the engine bay was to separate the radiator from the A/C radiator, this was quite a simple job and by doing this I think the cooling efficiency of the system will improve, as you can see from the picture, there was a lot of debris between the two radiators.

 

 

After fitting the pads and discs I decided to remove the A/C and look at getting my oil cooler fitted, Demon Tweeks do oil cooler kits so I rang them, they don't do a kit for the VR6 MK 4, they asked me to remove the bits where the sandwich plate will fit and fetch them in, so I did, and they still had to call Mocal to see what they recommend, as it stands my car looks like this;

 

 

 

This is where the oil cooler will take its feed from, it is on top of the oil filter housing, the part that fits there now is a small heat exchanger that has oil and water running through it, my plan is to remove this and put a thermostatic Mocal sandwich plate on there to feed an external cooler. The water feed for the old item will just be looped.

 

 

 

 

Final job after removing the A/C aluminium pipes from the engine bay was to separate the radiator from the A/C radiator, this was quite a simple job and by doing this I think the cooling efficiency of the system will improve, as you can see from the picture, there was a lot of debris between the two radiators.

 

 

The rad don't look in too bad a nick, did you bin of the sai system too I can't see the air pump, good bit of weight saving from the front too aircon gone have you got the shorter belt? I've got the part number somewhere for when I did the bora

Yes the SAI has gone and been mapped out too, along with post cat lambda's and the evaporator thing from the fuel tank.

 Rad looks ok but I think it may be weeping as I have flushed it through and it now seems to be staying wet at the bottom corner, it is now stood up with the pipes at the top and it is full of water to see if it is empty by tomorrow.

 

 The belts for the A/C delete, you did send me the number and the length, I still have the PM and this is it.

 

Should be 21.36 X 1264mm (OE Number 066 145 933 K)

Whereas the belt for cars with air con is 21.36 X 1320mm (066 145 933 J)

 

Thanks Trev.

Should be good.  I noticed a good improvement in the efficiency of the main water rad after removing my A/C condensor.  It used to be the water getting too hot that brought me in on trackday sessions - now its just the oil getting a bit warm which stops me.

You need a big oil cooler Jason, keep it cool, I bought a 19 row cooler and continuos flow sandwich plate, if it is too cold I can gaffer tape a few rows off on the cooler

A/C compressor has gone and all the pipework, a new aux belt has been fitted because the path is now shorter, I have also fitted the oil cooler, pipework and sandwich plate, all joints are dry and leak free and attached to a 19 row Setrab cooler.

 The problem came when the bumper had to go back on, as the front of the Golf is enclosed in plastic the cooler was completely hidden behind the bumper. I have overcome this problem with the aid of cutting equipment and some mesh to cover the hole, in the process I have improved air flow too, not looking too pretty though but I don't really care, it is functional.

Lol

Here is the hole, a bit of mesh will cover this nicely, job for tomorrow.

 

 

You're right James.

Functional is a good way to describe it. Did you say you had some mesh to put in the gap too? Should look purposeful.