Are these the right plugs? No mention of them being platinum tipped?

Correct ones.

Moved to correct thread!

Edited 24 January, 20197 yr by Lee

Just a quick question. 

 

Ever since i change my plugs to denso’s it idles really lumpy on initial start up? 

 

Mellows out after a few minutes... 

 

i have noticed it runs (SOMETIMES) a little lumpy when at the lights etc etc. 

 

Is this a concern i ahould be worried about or is it due to the bigger gaps on the denso plugs? 

Regards 

Did you get the SKJ20CR and from a trusted supplier.

If the 4 plugs are in and at 0.8mm they should not be the issue.

 

The car should start at about 1,100 rpm and drop to about 800rpm in about 40 seconds, but not be lumpy.

 

Hopefully your air filter is fresh, the pipes / breather pipes all on OK.  

2 hours ago, Skoffski said:

Did you get the SKJ20CR and from a trusted supplier.

If the 4 plugs are in and at 0.8mm they should not be the issue.

 

The car should start at about 1,100 rpm and drop to about 800rpm in about 40 seconds, but not be lumpy.

 

Hopefully your air filter is fresh, the pipes / breather pipes all on OK.  

Will give it all a check over the weekend and report back 

cheers 

Changed the plugs on my VRS cave fabia. Ngk plugs used, ngk vw plugs were in it. Now the hot idle rpm is at 1100 which is up from around 850 before the plug change! Anyone else had this? 

Thanks

Welcome.

It should start at 1,100rpm and drop to about 800 rpm in about 40 seconds when you start the engine. Sure you just did not notice before?

 

Not sure what you mean about 'Hot idle'.

Is it at 1,100rpm all the time when stationary and is the DSG in D or S when at that?

 

If sitting at 1,100rpm when stationary have you got the breather pipes all back on correctly?

Edited 4 March, 20197 yr by Skoffski

36 minutes ago, Skoffski said:

Welcome.

It should start at 1,100rpm and drop to about 800 rpm in about 40 seconds when you start the engine. Sure you just did not notice before?

 

Not sure what you mean about 'Hot idle'.

Is it at 1,100rpm all the time when stationary and is the DSG in D or S when at that?

 

If sitting at 1,100rpm when stationary have you got the breather pipes all back on correctly?

Hot idle, I mean that engine is at normal operating temp and engine is idling not under load. Definitely has increased idle rpm since plug change. I'll check breather pipes but pretty sure they're on correct. 

Thanks for response 

@Bonamassafan happened to mine after changing plugs 

which i posted in my thread. 

 

Iv since had an ecu update which seems to have gotten rid of that problem. 

Really!

Wow, fussy little buggers ain't they lol. 

Thanks very much for passing that on. Would that be trip to dealers? 

Yeah mate  or get it remapped which isnt wise until oil fixed that is if yours doesn't burn oil

Edited 5 March, 20197 yr by GT0161

3 minutes ago, GT0161 said:

Yeah mate  or get it remapped which isnt wise until oil fixed its all in my thread mate u will find i have asked your questions too lol 

Ok thanks

Really!

Wow, fussy little buggers ain't they lol. 

Thanks very much for passing that on. Would that be trip to dealers? 

Changing the spark plugs for the correct spark plugs with the correct gap should not require a software update or resetting fault codes because of Misfires or ECP or Exhaust Emissions Light on.

 

That is if the job is done correctly and the Plugs in, Coils on undamaged and the pipes and wires as they should be.

Fussy has nothing to do with it, just the job done correctly & in a competent manner.  & not hooky or fake spark plugs purchased. Lots of dodgy ones about.

@Bonamassafan Any update on if you are sorted out now?

Edited 10 March, 20197 yr by Skoffski

On 05/03/2019 at 08:01, Skoffski said:

Changing the spark plugs for the correct spark plugs with the correct gap should not require a software update or resetting fault codes because of Misfires or ECP or Exhaust Emissions Light on.

 

That is if the job is done correctly and the Plugs in, Coils on undamaged and the pipes and wires as they should be.

Fussy has nothing to do with it, just the job done correctly & in a competent manner.  & not hooky or fake spark plugs purchased. Lots of dodgy ones about.

I purchased the plugs from Euro Car Parts, genuine NGK. I am a qualified vehicle technician, dealership trained (not Skoda admittedly), I now teach Motor Vehicle at a college. I appreciate that experience is everything and  I was tapping into people's experiences to see if anyone has had this issue before. Common practice in the Motor Trade as it can save time and money. 

Thanks for all advice given. Hope this clears up any doubt of the job done correctly or with competence.

Thanks

8 hours ago, Skoffski said:

@Bonamassafan Any update on if you are sorted out now?

Not as yet, had so much on lately not had a chance. Hoping for another look this week sometime. Will let you know when I find something lol. 

Thanks for asking 

 

Yes lol.

Not to be cheeky, but something went a bit Pete Tong then.  

Its been the case over the years that even Skoda / VW / SEAT / Audi trained technicians co0ck up a simple thing like changing spark plugs in a twincharger.

Odd that.

Edited 10 March, 20197 yr by Skoffski

On ‎10‎/‎03‎/‎2019 at 10:06, Skoffski said:

@Bonamassafan Any update on if you are sorted out now?

Managed to have a look today, boss was off :-) There was a tiny split in one of the waste gate pipes, the one that has the 90 deg set in it. I obviously aggravated this when changing the plugs. Repaired it with the appropriate glue, no more problem

Which plugs would you guys recommend if the car is getting an APR stage 1 map? (Late CTHE engine) and potentially an air intake? Not chasing power, but if it’s there to be had easily then why not! 

@thomasaspinor @Mickmartinare likely to know what the latest opinions are on the plugs to go with and the gap. 

 

I would be sticking with the Denso plugs that i used and recommended for years in the many many Twincharger Spark Plug threads. 

 Buy from a trusted trader whatever you are buying.

Edited 11 August, 20223 yr by roottoot

On 11/08/2022 at 11:55, roottoot said:

@thomasaspinor @Mickmartinare likely to know what the latest opinions are on the plugs to go with and the gap. 

 

I would be sticking with the Denso plugs that i used and recommended for years in the many many Twincharger Spark Plug threads. 

 Buy from a trusted trader whatever you are buying.

Having run both NGK and denso I found the denso to be a better reactive plug and the engine did behave better with them but lasted far less time than the NGK if you replace them every year each are as good as one another in honesty! On standard coil packs I recommend a gap of 0.6 mm to make up for the weak coil but on R8 coil packs you can get away with a 0.8mm gap as they are more powerful 

How many km does the coils last. My car has done 145 000km. 

Hello all. New to the forum and joined because I’ve purchased a CTHE VRS 2013 with a lowly 32,000 miles on the clock.

I’ve changed the plugs myself and gapped at 0.6mm and found the engine to run smoother and it seems more powerful,  but that could be because one of the old plugs was not tight and compression could be up?

But reading through this thread has got me slightly worried as I’m wondering if I should have gapped at 0.7mm? Also, I torqued at 30nm, into a stone cold engine with no lube round the spark plug threads, but I’m also wondering if that should have been 28nm and I’ve over done it?

 

All seems fine with my VRS but it’s hard to work out from all the postings, what the correct setting are?….plugs are NGK iridium which quote a torque setting of 25nm to 30nm. Thanks.

 

 

1 hour ago, JoeyVRScthe said:

Hello all. New to the forum and joined because I’ve purchased a CTHE VRS 2013 with a lowly 32,000 miles on the clock.

I’ve changed the plugs myself and gapped at 0.6mm and found the engine to run smoother and it seems more powerful,  but that could be because one of the old plugs was not tight and compression could be up?

But reading through this thread has got me slightly worried as I’m wondering if I should have gapped at 0.7mm? Also, I torqued at 30nm, into a stone cold engine with no lube round the spark plug threads, but I’m also wondering if that should have been 28nm and I’ve over done it?

 

All seems fine with my VRS but it’s hard to work out from all the postings, what the correct setting are?….plugs are NGK iridium which quote a torque setting of 25nm to 30nm. Thanks.

 

2Nm extra is irrelevant, most cheap torque wrenches aren't even that accurate so forget about it.

 

Also the gap is fine, well within tolerance of +/- 0.1mm.

 

Try and ignore all the pomposity and self-importance on here to cut through to what's actually important; which is regular plug checks and changing at the first signs of wear.

 

I was going to change them every 10k, which is yearly in my case. I will go with the densos next time as they seem to be the plug of choice on Briskoda but no hardship if I can’t get them as the NGK’s seem great.