just a quick heads up chaps i was in the skoda garage on friday as i needed a new tyre and some software updates and diagnostics as my car wasn't running correctly after a engine replacement (MAF SENSOR faulty) as i was in there another vrs came in (green 2011) that had a chewed up plug on one of the cylinders don't  no wether it was remapped or anything or wether that lads on here but just check them as that car was way out of warranty so that chaps gonna get shafted by VAG. i would get them replaced TWICE a year me personally for like 50 quid for plugs its piece of mind. 

Could this maybe Vrs-Fletch's vRS that you are talking about.

Post started last Sunday.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/348086-vrs-engine-death

The gap on these denso plugs says 0.4mm is this OK?

Too small, should be 0.8mm ideally.

 

As for the above misfires:

1. Check your fuel trims, AFR and Lambda readings - do a log from cold to running temps and after oil gets to above 85C hammer it and log as well. Do it with and without the box.

2. I do not think you have your coils nackered, if they were faulte your motor would be ailing with and without the tuning box

3. My money is on the box massively overfuelling and thus causing misfires, is your engine air intake filter new? Might be completely bunged up and not enough air is getting in.

4. have you played with the tuning box settings?

Hi jabozuma, I.have kept the setting the same on the box all the timE.it has been running for a few month Fine then had a missfire last week. Changed plugs and still the same. My air filter is the standard one I have 29000 miles on clock don't think it's been changed. I was going to change the ignition coils. But maybe the box is broken now? Not sure what to do now... Car is running fine without the box so.not putting it back on but have I.got a problem somewhere? The plugs I.have bought are the vk20 denso and are recommended for my car And come as 0.4mm

In that case there could be two things.

1. Box developed a fault - looks like it and is good as it means your motor is fine

2. The compression is less than ideal and it was getting worse in time and now it reached a threshold where the box is simply showing it. This is bad.

 

Have you checked the compression in your pots?

 

0.4mm is a very small gap really. If that is indeed what the correct Denso plug for your car is set up for I'd go with a different plug. The bigger the gap without misfires the more power and better mpg you are going to get.

I got the plugs ordered through eurocarparts. I've not checked the compression but maybe I should now then to be on the safe side.. Hope it's just the box.car seems to be fine. Fingers crossed all is ok. Cheers m8

Did those VK20 come set at 0.4mm ? 

They are not recommended are they, just the ones that ECP list and supply.

One of the Australian members said he uses them.

 

The Denso i use and have recommended are the SKJ20CR~A4  *3371*  

 

the VK20 must be ok, but not at 0.4mm gap

Hi George Yeah they are the ones I have put in.when I say recommend I should of said that's what comes up on a couple of motor factors. They say 0.4mm on the box they are what's in now And seems ok as standard. Should I remove these now then to adjust the gap

I have boxes of DENSO plugs here that i use and they do not give the gap on them.

 

Did you check all 4 before putting them in and were they at 0.4mm ?

I have the box here.They came in.individual boxes. Denso vk20 5604 iridium tough. 0.4mm iridium tip. Oh stupid me that must obviously be the tip not.the gap...

Sorry my mistake

We will just trust that they were all OK gap wise if you never checked the gaps on each,

and hope then never got a dunt before being fitted.

I hope So mate. I'm.going to have to do a compression test to make sure everything is ok.

I was about to comment that the 0.4mm is the tip diameter.  I'd recommend you take the plugs out & regap them.  You should always double check the gap as there is no guarantee they are correct ex-factory.

While we're at it, does anybody know how much is the recommended torque for tightening them plugs? I have a large torque wrench for wheel bolts that just starts at 28Nm and applied that but I think it might be something around 20Nm.

Edited 30 March, 201511 yr by newbie69

I do it by hand

ooohh errr missus......

While we're at it, does anybody know how much is the recommended torque for tightening them plugs? I have a large torque wrench for wheel bolts that just starts at 28Nm and applied that but I think it might be something around 20Nm.

14mm taper seat are 9-20Nm.  Cheapest place you'll get a torque wrench for it will be one of the online bicycle parts places (wiggle, etc).

 

Alternativly, screw in by hand until it seats & snug it down another 1/16-1/8 of a turn (it's bugger-all - just a nip so it seats - it's only a single finger pressure).

 

The above is without any lube on the threads.  Supposedly the plating on the threads is anti-seize enough but I can't help myself & put a scrape of black moly on the threads.

14mm taper seat are 9-20Nm.  Cheapest place you'll get a torque wrench for it will be one of the online bicycle parts places (wiggle, etc).

 

Alternativly, screw in by hand until it seats & snug it down another 1/16-1/8 of a turn (it's bugger-all - just a nip so it seats - it's only a single finger pressure).

 

The above is without any lube on the threads.  Supposedly the plating on the threads is anti-seize enough but I can't help myself & put a scrape of black moly on the threads.

 

Cheers Brad. I never lube the threads when I care to follow the manufacturers torque values, and anyway, by checking them every 5K and changing every 10K they won't be there long enough for them to stick... 

Edited 31 March, 201511 yr by newbie69

Dielectric Grease, has its uses where required and should be used sparingly. I like it's use with coils and plugs. Not on the threads, their is the correct antifreeze for that.

I use no lubes, seats better that way

I use no lubes, seats better that way

Yes, you don't really want the plug excessively insulated from the head as there is a certain level of heat transfer needed.

 

As I said, I can't help myself, it's habit that was drummed into me 35 years back as an apprentice.  I uses a match head size dollop per spark plug.  It makes me stop worrying the boss will sneak up behind me & smack me on the ear.

 

I've known a few modern Subabrus that are on 100,000km change intervals that have had the rear spark plug seize in the head so I don't think the anti-seize coating applied by the manufacturer is as good as it could be. 

 

Cheers Brad. I never lube the threads when I care to follow the manufacturers torque values, and anyway, by checking them every 5K and changing every 10K they won't be there long enough for them to stick... 

 

that would work but it sounds a bit like owning a Morris Minor.

that would work but it sounds a bit like owning a Morris Minor.

 

Better safe than sorry, especially when tuned and since these engines are showing such a tendency to cook plugs much earlier than the foreseen interval even at stock power. I don't mind the cost at all, it is still a much cheaper car to run at this power.

Edited 1 April, 201511 yr by newbie69

Did those VK20 come set at 0.4mm ? 

They are not recommended are they, just the ones that ECP list and supply.

One of the Australian members said he uses them.

 

The Denso i use and have recommended are the SKJ20CR~A4  *3371*  

 

the VK20 must be ok, but not at 0.4mm gap

 

George, would these Denso plugs be suitable for use in 2011 Ibiza Bocanegra? And if so, do you have a recommended retailer for them?

 

Thanks

Yes it is the Identical Engine.

Any Motor Factor should order them in. 

Maybe Dingbro,

or

http://thetradepartsspecialists.co.uk

 

at least 3 types of Spark Plugs usually appear on the Computer System.

Just be sure that the understand is for the 

Seat Ibiza Boncanegra / Cupra 2009-2012 1.4 TSI 132 kw CAVE (same as Cupra 2013-2015 CTHE)

 

If they dither,

say the same Plugs as Skoda , VW , Audi 1.4 TSI / TFSI 132 KW & 136kw