I think it is possible to alter the MPG correction factor/calibration using VCDS but would be a bit of a trial and error process

Actually thinking about it more won't it be impossible to use the onboard system for MPG now seeing as the box intercepts both fuel and boost signals and sends it's own? As it will be doing it's own thing constantly the reading will never be a 'set amount' higher or lower? Or am I overthinking this and does the car measure fuel injected after the box?

 

I'll use the brim to brim method for the next tankful and see what the difference really is.

I corrected mine to 112% and it is around the same as the actual consumption

Well I finally took the plunge and purchased the Stage 2 kit. I ordered it on a Friday afternoon and enquired with Andrew whether it would be delivered on the Saturday or Monday...he said Saturday and indeed at 12.30 the postman turned up with the DTUK box in hand.

I could see through the little window on the box that it was preset to 4-0 and the manual said to drive the car as preset and then when happy increase it step by step. I'm not usually one to follow instructions like this but seeing as it was being applied to a £25,000 car I decided to follow.

Fitting was as simple as changing a house bulb. The engine cover literally pulls off and the two connectors are very easily accessible on the top sides (left and right) of the engine. No bending hands around car parts and scrapped knuckles!

Popped the engine cover back on and started the car.

Unfortunately it was raining but performance increase was obvious. After driving for an hour I returned home to change the box settings. I undid the screws on the box (using the supplied torx bit), removed the cover and then couldn't work out how you access the pins and jumpers to change the settings as they are on the other side of the exposed ECU board. Quick message to Andrew and within 2 or 3 minutes he text my phone with a YouTube link which had a 10 second video on how to change the settings. It was very simple and just involved wiggling the loom plug and out came the plug and ecu board.

I moved the jumpers to 4-1 and then the next day when the roads has dried out 4-2. I haven't changed up to 4-3 yet to see if the car takes it but plan to this weekend.

Performance:

The performance is incredible. Acceleration between 50 and the wrong side of 70 is outstanding and so smooth. It just keeps going and going and going. There's an obvious kick in power but not as I expected. It's much more smooth and refined. I drove the car today without the box and it seemed so slow (even though I was completely satisfied before fitting) going from 50 - 70.

Flying through the lower gears it's a lot more violent than before and you can certainly feel the extra torque. Wheel spin was easily manageable though as I hardly ever find myself racing away from traffic lights! Coming from an entire history of petrol cars I've found it hard to adjust to changing gear lower down the rev range but this box gives you power for longer and further up the rev range.

I've taken quite a few people out in the car both before and after and they've all commented on the difference. I've now clocked up 600 miles with the box and extremely happy.

Economy:

An added bonus is I am now achieving an extra 5-7 mpg consistently. This is with tank to tank measurements and not the onboard display which shows a much higher figure. As I haven't got many miles on the clock yet MPG is constantly improving so it's a little hit or miss but hopefully in a few thousand more miles I will be able to update everyone again.

Summary:

Love it!

I assume those using the box have reported it to their insurance company... What was the hit for putting it on?

P

Sent from my HTC One mini 2 using Tapatalk

I assume those using the box have reported it to their insurance company... What was the hit for putting it on?

P

Sent from my HTC One mini 2 using Tapatalk

 

For me it didn't cost a penny extra (esure). I did declare it when taking out the policy at the start though so avoided any admin costs of changing mid policy (if they apply).

MPG readout is useless unless corrected when the box is fitted - if you have seen my review on mine then the above (a bit further up) is correct.

In to the instrument panel adaptations and change correction from 100% to either 112 or 113 depending on the setting you have the box on.

Mine is 4+1 and 113% is bang on real calculated tank to tank MPG, if you don't have a tuning box fitted then set to 102% to get an accurate reading.

Edited 22 May, 201412 yr by xpower

Andrew, I've put my box onto 4+3 and the car is happy (so am I!), but do you have any rolling road figures for 4+3? I've got a rolling road session next month (group session arranged on here) and want to rolling road it with 4+3 but only if it's definitely a higher output than 4+2. It feels it to me but could be the placebo effect.

My car won't run on anything higher than plus 1, and as I've mentioned earlier I recommend plus 1

Got one this week and have to say I'm very impressed. Installation was easy and power increase is significant. I'm on 4+1and I did some timing with RaceChrono.

Edited 15 June, 201411 yr by SkodaMies

for the sake of feedback - I initially ran mine on 4+3 with no problem, then coil light showed,so knocked it down to 4+2 and the car ran fine until this week and coil light showed again, previously if I turned the car off and on again it cleared, but now the car Won't stand it, so

After 5000 miles I cannot run anything higher than 4+1, I hope I doesn't get any further issues, but generally everything has been fine and I fitted the box at 500 miles. Plus I have pedal box fitted...

perhaps it is down to the cars characteristics settling down.

Have you had any other issues other than the coil light? I had some vibration yesterday when accelerating in a high gear which stopped when I lifted off the accelerator and repressed the pedal down. Not sure if it's due to the box or not as it's only done it once in around a month of having it fitted.

None at all whatsoever, it's just as if the car is getting less tolerant with the box...

I'll stick with the 4+3 for now then. If it does it again I'll drop it to 4+2 but no errors as yet.

I remember the issue discussed some months ago, but just can't remember wether or not anyone actually reached a conclusion or if one did, which was it. But here's the thing: there seem to be some talks around about DSG-box cutting torque. The figure I have in my mind is 400 Nm. Some say that the 6-speed DSG can handle way more, up to +500 Nm. However, buing a box for measly +20 Nm (380 -> 400) and some +20 Hp wouldn't be frugal IF the transmission cuts down the power @ 400 Nm.

 

So, anyone out there whose done it with a DSG, or with a definite information about the matter? Does it need a DSG-remap? If it does, have VAG improved encryption in their transmission's coding like they've done to the ECU, meaning that can the DSG even be reprogrammed nowadays?

Edited 16 June, 201411 yr by Hammi

for the sake of feedback - I initially ran mine on 4+3 with no problem, then coil light showed,so knocked it down to 4+2 and the car ran fine until this week and coil light showed again, previously if I turned the car off and on again it cleared, but now the car Won't stand it, so

After 5000 miles I cannot run anything higher than 4+1, I hope I doesn't get any further issues, but generally everything has been fine and I fitted the box at 500 miles. Plus I have pedal box fitted...

perhaps it is down to the cars characteristics settling down.

The higher ambient air temps will be causing issues Steve, but nice to know that youre now in my ball park

Ive never been able to run anything higher than plus 1 from day 1.

Makes sense... Less air mass/density... I forget basics sometimes... It will effect the overall fueling ratio/performance. But you tend think modern engines will compensate, probably on the contrary.

But you never miss what you never had, and I had it and now miss it. HA

I suppose I'll have to wind it back up come winter...

What have DSG users been running theres on?

Edited 20 June, 201411 yr by SkodaMies

That's impressive, 6.3s 0-100 kph on the lap timer. About 1.5s quicker than videos of standard TDi DSGs I've seen.

Double post

Edited 20 June, 201411 yr by Spudey

That's impressive, 6.3s 0-100 kph on the lap timer. About 1.5s quicker than videos of standard TDi DSGs I've seen.

Can someone else confirm these figures? Comparing with the petrol, 0-100 (km/h) in 6.8 seconds, would 20 hp (240 instead of 220 stock) extra really shave off half a second? Haven't considered the extra torque, just seems too good to be true. When I asked Andrew, he thought stage 2 would give 0,5-1 second faster.

When I asked Andrew, he thought stage 2 would give 0,5-1 second faster.

 

I think this is the bit that's confusing me... I kind of understand the difference between the different modding stages, but there's nothing on the DTUK website which suggests you need to upgrade anything in order to use the Stage 2 box.  And given that both the Stage 1 and Stage 2 boxes are the same price, I don't see why anyone would ever buy the Stage 1 box... unless you do need upgraded other bits as well.

You don't need to upgrade anything for either the stage 1 or 2, the difference between the 2 is that stage 1 only effects the throttle where as stage 2 controls the throttle and boost in the turbo I believe, hence why stage 2 gives more power. 

 

Why would you get stage 1 and not stage 2 I don't know, but I was considering getting a stage 2 and based on the insurance quotes I got this week I don't know how any one does, the best quote I got was £1100 this is up from £227!!!

I think this is the bit that's confusing me... I kind of understand the difference between the different modding stages, but there's nothing on the DTUK website which suggests you need to upgrade anything in order to use the Stage 2 box. And given that both the Stage 1 and Stage 2 boxes are the same price, I don't see why anyone would ever buy the Stage 1 box... unless you do need upgraded other bits as well.

Within the product description on the website it states that no hardware updates are needed for the stage 2 option

Also there is a £50 difference between the 2

Crd2+ £389 - £80 member discount

CRDT £439 - £80 member discount

Feel free to pm me If you have any questions

Andrew