You don't need to upgrade anything for either the stage 1 or 2, the difference between the 2 is that stage 1 only effects the throttle where as stage 2 controls the throttle and boost in the turbo I believe, hence why stage 2 gives more power.

Why would you get stage 1 and not stage 2 I don't know, but I was considering getting a stage 2 and based on the insurance quotes I got this week I don't know how any one does, the best quote I got was £1100 this is up from £227!!!

Regarding insurance I would suggest giving us a call before speaking to your insurers as we maybe able to help

Can someone else confirm these figures? Comparing with the petrol, 0-100 (km/h) in 6.8 seconds, would 20 hp (240 instead of 220 stock) extra really shave off half a second? Haven't considered the extra torque, just seems too good to be true. When I asked Andrew, he thought stage 2 would give 0,5-1 second faster.

Petrol can do 0-100km/h in under 6 seconds stock, tried, timed and tested on mine with GPS gear (even Evo managed 5.8 in theirs), best time on mine has been 5.6 seconds, however mine has been running on 99 ron fuel and rumour has it will be kicking out over 240bhp standard!!

Took my car for a run Sunday morning and the results are above. The car is run on standard diesel, none of that expensive stuff. The box was set to 4+2.

If I'm honest I am a little disappointed in the figures after seeing the graphs towards the start of this thread as that was run on 4+1 BUT they are just numbers at the end of the day. When you consider how the box has transformed the pull through the rev range I'm over the moon.

I'll have to run it again on another meet and pay for a couple of runs to try it on a few settings to compare.

Took my car for a run Sunday morning and the results are above. The car is run on standard diesel, none of that expensive stuff. The box was set to 4+2.

If I'm honest I am a little disappointed in the figures after seeing the graphs towards the start of this thread as that was run on 4+1 BUT they are just numbers at the end of the day. When you consider how the box has transformed the pull through the rev range I'm over the moon.

I'll have to run it again on another meet and pay for a couple of runs to try it on a few settings to compare.

 

That's a healthy output.

 

It's been said a few times on this forum that dyno calibrations are not consistent, with some being more optimistic than others. A before/after comparison on the same dyno is more useful than comparing results obtained at different places.

I fully understand that and it's why I want to run the car standard and then with different settings on the box to get the 'real' figures in terms of gains from the original figure. As yesterday was a group session with just 2 runs each it was impossible to test the box on different settings.

Don't get me wrong though - The car is a dream to drive and I would highly recommend it to anyone.

Top speed comparison with and without the box.

4+1 and same location in both drives, straight and flat German autobahn.

Sorry about the shaky picture.

...I had some vibration yesterday when accelerating in a high gear which stopped when I lifted off the accelerator and repressed the pedal down. Not sure if it's due to the box or not as it's only done it once in around a month of having it fitted.

Had the same kind of vibration yesterday. High gear and accelerating. It felt like the clutch was slipping.

The vibration hasn't reoccured since so might have been a one off for me - It has been over a week since and we've had both cold and very warm temperatures so its not related to air temperature. No coil lights or anything like that either so I won't be panicking.

 

One thing I didn't realise was this occured when the box was set to 4+2 not 4+3 as previously stated. I switched down from 4+3 to 4+2 because I thought it was drinking too much fuel but after speaking to a few people at the weekend who've had remaps they think it could just be related to my heavy right foot and enjoying it more. I'm planning on switching back to 4+3 at some point this week and seeing how it goes.

Edited 24 June, 201411 yr by JamesVRSmk3

Regarding insurance I would suggest giving us a call before speaking to your insurers as we maybe able to help

 

Interested to know how you can help with this? Some sort of tie-up with a broker? Please enlighten us!

Interested to know how you can help with this? Some sort of tie-up with a broker? Please enlighten us!

 

At a guess, tell them that the device is designed to increase the efficiency of the engine and that VAG employ really poor designers and engineers because despite the millions that they spend on maximising the efficiency of their units in order to be able to publish the highest possible mpg figures, they can still be made more efficient by the addition of a sub £300 box.

Had the same kind of vibration yesterday. High gear and accelerating. It felt like the clutch was slipping.

This, is why I was asking about what testing has been done on the clutch on the new VAG engines, seems no one has an answer for that yet.........

At a guess, tell them that the device is designed to increase the efficiency of the engine and that VAG employ really poor designers and engineers because despite the millions that they spend on maximising the efficiency of their units in order to be able to publish the highest possible mpg figures, they can still be made more efficient by the addition of a sub £300 box.

 

VAG don't make them as efficient as possible for every environment - that's the whole point.  They make them as reliable as possible for all environments.  For the UK, with pretty easy driving conditions and high quality fuel, they can be made more efficient as the tolerance doesn't need to be as high.

 

I'm still undecided about a tuning box - I like the idea of getting better performance (never mind the supposed economy gains), but I'm not sure I want to put one on a new car that is still under warranty, no matter what anyone says.

The vibration hasn't reoccured since so might have been a one off for me - It has been over a week since and we've had both cold and very warm temperatures so its not related to air temperature. No coil lights or anything like that either so I won't be panicking.

One thing I didn't realise was this occured when the box was set to 4+2 not 4+3 as previously stated. I switched down from 4+3 to 4+2 because I thought it was drinking too much fuel but after speaking to a few people at the weekend who've had remaps they think it could just be related to my heavy right foot and enjoying it more. I'm planning on switching back to 4+3 at some point this week and seeing how it goes.

James, if you're running the system on plus 2 or 3 the vibration is probably the result of excessive low down torque.

As I've suggested on several occasions, our recommend setting is plus 1.

That's what we use on our own manual vrs and we've not had any kind of issues at all

I never witnessed any vibration on any setting, started on 4+3, then 4+2 and now the car seems to have settled on 4+1 with no coil light showing... and that is with Pedal Box fitted.

I would love to run the 4+3 again, but as explained in an earlier post, perhaps the (slightly) warmer temperatures we are having now effect it, I first fitted the box in November on my car on 4+3 with no problems and it was extremely quick with the pedal box

James, if you're running the system on plus 2 or 3 the vibration is probably the result of excessive low down torque.

As I've suggested on several occasions, our recommend setting is plus 1.

That's what we use on our own manual vrs and we've not had any kind of issues at all

I noted your recommendation but it read as if you were only recommending it because that's all your car could take rather than any specific reason which is why I've increased it step by step as the manual suggested.

Is there a risk to the car running higher than 4+1 that you know of then?

It's only happened the once but if it happens again I will drop it back a setting unless there is a danger in keeping it where it is.

I noted your recommendation but it read as if you were only recommending it because that's all your car could take rather than any specific reason which is why I've increased it step by step as the manual suggested.

Is there a risk to the car running higher than 4+1 that you know of then?

It's only happened the once but if it happens again I will drop it back a setting unless there is a danger in keeping it where it is.

The risk is your coil light will show and you will lose power and go into limp mode, whilst this will not (As far as I can tell) harm your Car, it may leave you in a situation when you are depending on the power and don't have it, for example in spirited overtaking maneuvers...

Well I was going to post asking how easy it is to get the light off but I've just found out as it's come on twice in the last 15 mins :(

At first it was a 0-60 sprint which I went a little too high of the rev counter (not red line) and it's came on. Turning the car off and on cleared it but another 15 mins later it returned while cruising on the motorway at 70ish. It could have been on a little before I reached cruising speed but didn't notice until I tried overtaking.

Looks like the fun of 4+3 and 4+2 is over and I'll have to drop it down to 4+1 which is pretty disappointing.

Edited 26 June, 201411 yr by JamesVRSmk3

Agricultural vehicles, nuff said ?

 

Agricultural vehicle, what did you expect !

 

Agricultural vehicles, nuff said ?

 

Yes you've said enough, now leave us tractor drivers to our own torquey fun.

Is it my imagination or does 4+1 feel a lot different to 4?

I don't think I've never used mine on 4 so couldn't comment on that. I think it came preset to 4+1.

Well I was going to post asking how easy it is to get the light off but I've just found out as it's come on twice in the last 15 mins :(

At first it was a 0-60 sprint which I went a little too high of the rev counter (not red line) and it's came on. Turning the car off and on cleared it but another 15 mins later it returned while cruising on the motorway at 70ish. It could have been on a little before I reached cruising speed but didn't notice until I tried overtaking.

Looks like the fun of 4+3 and 4+2 is over and I'll have to drop it down to 4+1 which is pretty disappointing.

It's boosting over the configured boost threshold and that's why it's going into limp mode, hence the advice to run in +1

It's strange though that I have run the box for 2500 miles without it boosting over the configured boost threshold then all of a sudden it's doing it. Surely the box should be consistantly boosting to the same figure every time I drive?

Edited 27 June, 201411 yr by JamesVRSmk3

Maybe the air temp humidity etc is affecting if?

Edited 27 June, 201411 yr by Crogers

Maybe the air temp humidity etc is affecting if?

You're 100% correct

It's progressively become warmer and the air is less dense which will result in an imbalance. As soon as we move into autumn you'll be able to run plus 2/3 (probably)