Show your Octavia III Dashcam setups

[stever750]

I've thought about having one fitted, I drive around 35 to 40k a year but in that time I see something worth noting (not reporting) about one every 6-9 months. I'm guessing also having one fitted is a bit like having a speed limiter fitted. 

[wingzee]

On 03/09/2016 at 19:38, mabnz said:

Hey guys

 

I've got an O3 with a fair few options, and after trying to use fuse 47 (rear wiper) I've found my fuse tap physically won't fit in as it hits fuse 50 (boot lid) on the way in. Turn it around the other way and it hits fuse 45 (operating seat adjustment).

 

I got a multimeter in there and it literally looks like only two fuses are ignition switched - 47 and 49, neither of which I can use with the fuse tap I have.

 

Has anyone else got any other suggestions?

 

 

Mike.

 

Same issue for me - VRS wagon with all options ticked. Fusebox looks pretty full - may just tap on fuse 37 like what you did. I assume it’s a mini (not micro) size fuse & fuse tap?

[Dave77]

Just bought an Aukey DR02D - front and back camera, has anyone installed one before?

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075T8H9XJ

[mabnz]

8 hours ago, wingzee said:

 

Same issue for me - VRS wagon with all options ticked. Fusebox looks pretty full - may just tap on fuse 37 like what you did. I assume it’s a mini (not micro) size fuse & fuse tap?

 

 

Yeah it's mini.

 

You have a lot of fuses! Did you also get canton, the sunroof and park assist?

 

 

Edited 1 November, 2017 by mabnz

[wingzee]

11 hours ago, mabnz said:

 

Yeah it's mini.

 

You have a lot of fuses! Did you also get canton, the sunroof and park assist?

 

 

 

Yeah fully optioned with all bells & whistles. In Australia we only get “packs” of options unlike in UK/EU where you get to tick individual options.

 

Any issues with the piggyback on fuse 37 (headlight) so far? Likely to tap on the same one given the limited surrounding space for fuse 47.

[wyx087]

22 hours ago, wingzee said:

 

Same issue for me - VRS wagon with all options ticked. Fusebox looks pretty full - may just tap on fuse 37 like what you did. I assume it’s a mini (not micro) size fuse & fuse tap?

 

What's being used in your fuse location 48? The red 10A one, bottom right.

 

Do you mind have a quick look into your manual?

[wingzee]

4 minutes ago, wyx087 said:

 

What's being used in your fuse location 48? The red 10A one, bottom right.

 

Do you mind have a quick look into your manual?

 

That been assigned to blind spot monitoring.

[Dave77]

Hi, I've just bought an Anker Roav dash cam, can anybody recommend a dash cam wiring kit for it (micro USB) to piggy back onto fuse 48

 

Has anyone used one of these? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Converter-Voltage-Parallel-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00GXXFBC0

 

I guess I could use the above with the wire that came with the dashcam then i'd have a spare USB for a rear camera

Edited 22 November, 2017 by Dave77

[Dave77]

 

On 22/11/2017 at 14:15, Dave77 said:

Hi, I've just bought an Anker Roav dash cam, can anybody recommend a dash cam wiring kit for it (micro USB) to piggy back onto fuse 48

 

Has anyone used one of these? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Converter-Voltage-Parallel-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00GXXFBC0

 

I guess I could use the above with the wire that came with the dashcam then i'd have a spare USB for a rear camera

 

I fitted the Anker Roav C1 at the weekend using the above converter and a piggyback fuse connecter. Using fuse slot 48 as it was empty. I exptected to only need 1 fuse for the new circuit but it would only work with 2 fuses in the piggyback plug. Is that because i plugged the piggyback connecter in the wrong way round?

Edited 27 November, 2017 by Dave77

[wyx087]

1 hour ago, Dave77 said:

 

 

I fitted the Anker Roav C1 at the weekend using the above converter and a piggyback fuse connecter. Using fuse slot 48 as it was empty. I exptected to only need 1 fuse for the new circuit but it would only work with 2 fuses in the piggyback plug. Is that because i plugged the piggyback connecter in the wrong way round?

Yes.

 

If you turn the piggyback fuse around, you should only need to insert a fuse into the outer/top slot. The bottom slot is meant to be for the car's built-in stuff. In fuse 48's case, blind spot monitoring system.

[Dave77]

22 minutes ago, wyx087 said:

Yes.

 

If you turn the piggyback fuse around, you should only need to insert a fuse into the outer/top slot. The bottom slot is meant to be for the car's built-in stuff. In fuse 48's case, blind spot monitoring system.

 

Thanks, it was a bit tricky with fuse 48 as there is a relay underneath so not as easy to put it in the other way around, i'll try harder! Most of the other posts with images seem to show the wire coming out of the top of the piggyback connecter, so maybe they're wrong too? Assuming all piggyback connecters are the same.

[wyx087]

5 hours ago, Dave77 said:

 

Thanks, it was a bit tricky with fuse 48 as there is a relay underneath so not as easy to put it in the other way around, i'll try harder! Most of the other posts with images seem to show the wire coming out of the top of the piggyback connecter, so maybe they're wrong too? Assuming all piggyback connecters are the same.

I thought all piggy back fuses work the same. Either way, requiring 2 fuses on somewhere you previously didn't have a fuse definitely means you've got it the wrong way round.

 

But it works, and I don't see any reason why there would be any problems. This is a case where right way and wrong way doesn't really matter.

[Dave77]

2 minutes ago, wyx087 said:

I thought all piggy back fuses work the same. Either way, requiring 2 fuses on somewhere you previously didn't have a fuse definitely means you've got it the wrong way round.

 

But it works, and I don't see any reason why there would be any problems. This is a case where right way and wrong way doesn't really matter.

 

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/piggy-back-fuseholders-a-right-way-and-a-wrong-way.7524/

 

For me using fuse 48 it won't make a difference but for those piggy backing an existing fuse it may do.

[wyx087]

Well, I have purposefully put it wrong way round on my Nissan Leaf (yes, I fiddled in the fuse box on an electric car). Because the right way round won't fit, same issue as you, Dave.

 

This is on the 12v socket fuse. Look at it this way:

• previously the electrons will travel along one pin and split into two, one to original destination via lower fuse, the other to your piggyback wire via top fuse
• now, the electrons will travel through lower fuse first, split one to original destination, the other to your piggyback wire via top fuse

You still get the same protection either way. Difference is that in the "wrong" way, the lower fuse has more load. So in my case, original fuse was 20 A, I've put it in the lower slot and put a 10 A in the upper slot. If the dashcam shorts, it'll blow the upper fuse first and 12v socket still functions. Problem only occurs when people don't understand the wiring and put a lesser rated fuse in the bottom slot.

Edited 27 November, 2017 by wyx087

[wingzee]

Finally got mine installed over the weekend. 2hrs job all-in (but hours invested prior in reading guides, found this particularly useful: https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/sg9665gc-hard-wiring-into-skoda-octavia-mk3-2017.30501/)

 

Hardwired installation with fuse piggyback on fuse 37 (mini size, for Headlight - Left) as my fuse 47 (Wiper - Rear) is blocked by other fuses (car came fully-optioned). All cabling routed through roof lining edges the top of A-pillar trim (where it meets windscreen), all the way down edges where it meets the dash then into the fusebox) - read a few which where routed below the A-pillar into the rubber seals, much easier but may interfere with curtain airbags deployment.

 

[wingzee]

Some other photos of my installation:

 

Edited 3 December, 2017 by wingzee

[wingzee]

On 04/09/2016 at 12:43, mabnz said:

 

Thanks for the idea. Managed to find a switched fuse (don't know how I missed them yesterday) but hooked into 37 (headlight left). 36, 35 and 33 are also ignition switched.

 

 

 

 

Just to ensure my setup has the correct fuse tap orientation - mine is tapped to fuse 37 as well (I don’t have a multimeter but apparently one need to ensure the fuse tap orientation is correct as otherwise the cam wouldn’t be protected despite having a fuse on) - do you have any photos of your fusebox with the fuse tap installed and can confirm that the setup is working well so far? Mine is like this. Should the red wire be pointing upwards (instead of downwards now) from the fuse tap and fuses facing right (instead of left now)?

 

 

 

Edited 3 December, 2017 by wingzee

[Dave77]

9 hours ago, wingzee said:

 

Just to ensure my setup has the correct fuse tap orientation - mine is tapped to fuse 37 as well (I don’t have a multimeter but apparently one need to ensure the fuse tap orientation is correct as otherwise the cam wouldn’t be protected despite having a fuse on) - do you have any photos of your fusebox with the fuse tap installed and can confirm that the setup is working well so far? Mine is like this. Should the red wire be pointing upwards (instead of downwards now) from the fuse tap and fuses facing right (instead of left now)?

 

Assuming all fuse taps are the same, I believe it should be pointing upwards. Try taking the bottom fuse out, if you dashcam doesn't work with just the top fuse in then it's the wrong way

 

This explains it well

 

[savman]

My dashcam setup is nextbase duo 

[spinifex]

On 04/12/2017 at 09:48, wingzee said:

 

Just to ensure my setup has the correct fuse tap orientation - mine is tapped to fuse 37 as well (I don’t have a multimeter but apparently one need to ensure the fuse tap orientation is correct as otherwise the cam wouldn’t be protected despite having a fuse on) - do you have any photos of your fusebox with the fuse tap installed and can confirm that the setup is working well so far? Mine is like this. Should the red wire be pointing upwards (instead of downwards now) from the fuse tap and fuses facing right (instead of left now)?

 

 

 

 

 

I can confirm that in my car (Octavia Mk3 RS), the fuse tap must be fitted with the piggyback wire DOWN.

ie: the fuse box is wired so that the TOP pins are incoming 12V, and the BOTTOM pins are the output to whatever device/circuit the fuse is protecting.

Fitting the tap upside down, will still work (provided there is a fuse in the bottom slot) - but that will only provide protection to the original circuit.

Even with a fuse in the top slot of the fuse tap, the way the piggyback is wired, means that fitting with the piggyback output wire pointing up, the circuit has no fuse protection.

 

I assume being mass-produced cars, that ALL Mk3 Octavia fuse-boxes are also wired in a similar manner.

So... be a man, and point those dangly bits down !!!

[wingzee]

39 minutes ago, spinifex said:

 

I can confirm that in my car (Octavia Mk3 RS), the fuse tap must be fitted with the piggyback wire DOWN.

ie: the fuse box is wired so that the TOP pins are incoming 12V, and the BOTTOM pins are the output to whatever device/circuit the fuse is protecting.

Fitting the tap upside down, will still work (provided there is a fuse in the bottom slot) - but that will only provide protection to the original circuit.

Even with a fuse in the top slot of the fuse tap, the way the piggyback is wired, means that fitting with the piggyback output wire pointing up, the circuit has no fuse protection.

 

I assume being mass-produced cars, that ALL Mk3 Octavia fuse-boxes are also wired in a similar manner.

So... be a man, and point those dangly bits down !!!

 

Do you have a photo of your installation? Which fuse slot did you ended up piggybacking on? Based on your post, it does looks like my orientation (red wire pointing down) is correct then? The photo in my original post shows that It is pointed down but routed upwards as it's closer to the grounding point.

 

Other guides that I found for the MK3 seems to suggest that point up is the right way. Confused!

 

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/sg9665gc-hard-wiring-into-skoda-octavia-mk3-2017.30501/

 

Go to 8:16

 

Edited 6 December, 2017 by wingzee

[Dave77]

On 04/12/2017 at 10:18, Dave77 said:

 

Assuming all fuse taps are the same, I believe it should be pointing upwards. Try taking the bottom fuse out, if you dashcam doesn't work with just the top fuse in then it's the wrong way

 

Oops, I meant pointing downwards, sorry!

[wingzee]

25 minutes ago, Dave77 said:

 

Oops, I meant pointing downwards, sorry!

 

No worries mate. All good. Since left it at where it is - pointing downwards.

[spinifex]

2 hours ago, wingzee said:

 

Do you have a photo of your installation? Which fuse slot did you ended up piggybacking on? Based on your post, it does looks like my orientation (red wire pointing down) is correct then? The photo in my original post shows that It is pointed down but routed upwards as it's closer to the grounding point.

 

Other guides that I found for the MK3 seems to suggest that point up is the right way. Confused!

 

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/sg9665gc-hard-wiring-into-skoda-octavia-mk3-2017.30501/

 

 

 

 

Yeh, I read right through that forum as well, and watched a few YT videos on the piggyback taps..... and from what I could work out, pointing down is MORE correct than the other way around.

BOTH ways will operate..... BUT the correct way will operate both circuits independently and in parallel (ideal) and the wrong way around will operate both circuits dependently and in series (NOT ideal).
 

 

 

 

Pin A is the input side of the fuse tap.  This leg goes all the way up through the first fuse (original) to the second fuse (piggyback), so Pin A is the leg of the fuse tap that must be connected to the input 12V side of the fuse box.
Pin B output leg is NOT connected to the red output wire of the piggyback.

Therefore, the original circuit (Pin A input ===> bottom fuse ===> Pin B output) is TOTALLY independent of the piggyback circuit (Pin A input ===> top fuse ===> piggyback wire output.  The only commonality, is that they are both fed 12V from the shared input Pin A.

This is why it must be inserted correctly.

In this method, the circuits are connected in parallel, and are independent of each other.

 

NOW:  Consider mounting it the other way around..... Pin B connected as input to the 12V of the fusebox. 

With a fuse installed in bottom position, it will operate & protect the original circuit, as 12V will flow from Pin B input ===> bottom fuse ===> Pin A output.

NOTE that once this occurs, Pin A becomes live with 12V... all the way through the common-leg of the fuse tap..... so that the upper piggyback circuit will now have 12V available on Pin A.

 

So - with a fuse installed in top position, the piggyback circuit is also completed, and 12V will flow through to the output wire as desired.

 

BUT:  in this scenario, the top piggyback circuit is DEPENDENT on the bottom circuit, and the two circuits are then connected in SERIES, which is not ideal.

The current flows in one direction through the bottom fuse, then in the opposite direction through the top fuse to the output wire.

This is why, if the bottom fuse blows, the top circuit also fails - and is why the current draw is increased through the original circuit, as it is also having the piggyback circuit current flowing through it as well.

Which in turn, will be more likely to blow the bottom fuse.

 

--------------

 

And to answer your other questions - because I'm installing mine with a power magic pro unit, I need to connect to both permanent live power AND switched power.... so I've had to get 2 fuse taps for my installation.

My plan at this point, is to piggyback off fuse 40 (the cigarette lighter circuit) for permanent power.... since this is what I've been plugging the camera into anyway..... and use the rear-wiper fuse (I think it's 47?) for the accessory/switched power supply.

But I'll definitely be mounting mine with pigtails down.... as long as I can fit them without interference.

 

Hope all of this made sense.  While I'm not an electronic engineer, I've deduced my explanation above, from the various forum discussions & YT videos I've watched on the subject.

 

[wingzee]

These guys seemed professional enough and the installation for the MK7 had the pigtail pointing down too. I’m convinced now.

 

https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/manufacturer/volkswagen/mk7-golf/mk7-golf-dash-cam-install/