56 minutes ago, CookieMonster87 said:

Engine Oil Change:

 

Petrol

 

Long Life / Variable - Up to every 30,000 Km (18,641 Miles) or 2 years maximum

 

Time & Distance - Every 15,000 Km (9,320 Miles) or 1 year

 

Diesel

 

Long Life / Variable - Up to every 50,000 Km (31,068 Miles) or 2 years maximum

 

Thats from the first post.

Odd, my diesel mkii couldn't do that with vcds

When I collect I'll give the service history another going over to be sure.

 

Wouldn't be anything to put you off though would it? Considering it's had all its servicings carried out by main dealers at the intervals I stated.

 

You'd like to think they would have noticed/pointed out it was due. 

18 hours ago, CookieMonster87 said:

When I collect I'll give the service history another going over to be sure.

 

Wouldn't be anything to put you off though would it? Considering it's had all its servicings carried out by main dealers at the intervals I stated.

 

You'd like to think they would have noticed/pointed out it was due. 

 

After double checking it turns out that a long life oil change was carried out at the second service (after roughly 20k miles) but the brake fluid change was the only thing recorded as being carried out on the Skoda system. 

 

So if ever enquiring with Skoda about a cars service history etc be aware that they may not have recorded all work carried out which can be misleading unless you have the service book and receipts to hand. 

Hi All, what oils are recommended for the gearbox + quantity, as I dont think that there's a specified  distance for changing I would like to change it now and again. cheers Stuart

hi guys .. 

 

part numbers for the cr170 service parts ??

 

 

On ‎05‎/‎08‎/‎2017 at 23:34, benbissett93 said:

hi guys .. 

 

part numbers for the cr170 service parts ??

 

 

071115562C oil filter

 

3C0127434 fuel filter

 

1K0129620D air filter

 

JZW819653B pollen filter (if AC fitted)

 

N90813202 sump plug with washer

 

ZGB115QLB00501 Quantum long-life oil (5 litres)

 

These are the part numbers from when I first got service parts from TPS, if you have a Dingbro branch near you then you'll get exactly the same stuff (less oil!) from them but in a MANN box.....for a bit less £ !    (09 VRS CR)

Edited 10 August, 20178 yr by JohnMack

Following on from @benbissett93's request for part numbers...

 

Does anyone know the service item part numbers for an '08 Octavia Scout TDi (BMM).

Had a service plan on the car but now going to do the servicing myself from now on...

On 11/03/2015 at 21:16, 0wl said:

As per Anddenton's post I don't believe the 1.9 PD TDI was ever fitted with a DPF on the Octavia Mk2 in the UK market.

A way to check for a specific car is by looking up the list of VAG PR codes you'll find on the sticker on the front of the service book and under the carpet in the boot (top left of spare wheel well).

0GG - EU4 emission standard with no DPF

7GG - EU4 emission standard fitted with DPF

Here's a list of all the VAG PR codes:

http://vag-codes.info/files/options/vag-option-codes.pdf

These are useful lookup tools:

http://igorweb.org/equidec/

http://vag-codes.info

I've got a 2007 vrs pd engine. I was told that it does have a DPF. 

Airfilter change is really due to 90k? It is extremely long. The cost of these things are really minor , much safer to change every year, oil/air/pollen/fuel filters....

 

anyway the first summary post is very useful

On 9/9/2014 at 22:22, Mikecoulson207 said:

May sound silly but how do you know if it is on long life servicing?

 

Same question, didn't see an answer to it 

The easy way would be to watch for the service indicator; if it doesn't come on for a full year you're on the 2y cycle. If it does, the car could still be on that cycle, but AFAIK you can change at every service. It's mostly a question of the kind of engine oil they put in, no? 

1 minute ago, RJVB said:

The easy way would be to watch for the service indicator; if it doesn't come on for a full year you're on the 2y cycle. If it does, the car could still be on that cycle, but AFAIK you can change at every service. It's mostly a question of the kind of engine oil they put in, no? 

Well tbh this is why I found this thread. I've been on a pretty steady 10,000 mile service interval since new (62 plate bought second  hand 3 years ago). Last service @62k which included water pump and cambelt. 

 

I'm now approaching 72k and light should have been on a while ago, but nothing. Serviced at a VAG specialist as usual last time. 

 

Keep going till light comes on? 

That's what I'd do. Of course you can check what important things are scheduled at the next service, of course you can schedule a service a year after the previous as usual, and of course you can contact the specialist to ask if he prepared the car for a 2y interval. But if all fluid levels are OK and the car runs (and consumes) as usual I wouldn't worry.

 

Waterpump at 62k miles? I think that in my TDI the cambelt is rated at 180k km (112k miles or so) and changing the pump usually means changing the belt too. Did you have a leak or other issue with the pump? 

Edited 27 April, 20188 yr by RJVB

Was at 5 years RJVB which is recommended interval eh? You on the Mk2?

 

Thanks for the advice though, just wasn't sure, some seem to say after 10k oil should be changed, happy to keep her going till service light comes on

5 years? No, I'm on a 2y interval. I think I heard about brands that offer models which are service-free for their first 4 years (so why not 5), but I'm pretty certain that they went back to a more traditional service interval afterwards.

 

Dumping the oil more often may be useful if you have a very demanding driving style or a tuned engine. Otherwise the "X miles or Y years whichever is reached first" should be fine. That's probably how the service light is programmed (and we're not talking about warning or error lights indicating a specific condition, right? )

 

I have a 2009 TDI, the face-lifted MkII. I'll admit I know nothing about the petrol versions.

Hi all, looking to change out my gearbox oil on my 2012 1.6 tdi. How much would I have to buy and any recommendations on type also? Thanks

Edited 10 August, 20187 yr by RichyG

Owl great info there. Cheers.

 

I need clarification regarding engine oil grade for Skoda Laura L&K 1.9 PD 2007 without DPF.

 

I've posted the detailed question in oil topic. Apologies if spamming, as i'm just a rookie.

 

Anyone got the details on the vRS brakes yet? Wanting to change mine soon.

On 27/04/2018 at 15:26, Granite66 said:

 

Same question, didn't see an answer to it 

There is a label on your seviceplan and arround the spare wheel or under the carpet. Looks like this http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Misc/Audi_PR_Codes.pdf

 

QG1 = Variable Service Plan (up to 30k km or 2 years)

QG2 = Fixed Service Plan (10k to 15k km or 1 year)

 

If you wonder what other codes are?

http://vag-codes.info/ or http://vag-codes.info/vag-option-codes

Super info thanks,

I've got a 2011 Octavia vrs 2.0 tfsi.

When starting the engine judders alittle until warm, is this normal?

I've only just had a full service. 

Hey i am using a 1.8 tsi CDAA engine in my 2010 octavia mk2. I am quite happy with the vehicle but i have some lingering issues with my engine where it starts consuming oil.

 

I tried noticing but couldnt find a drop in power or any blue smoke from the exhaust. There isnt even a drop of oil from any part of the vehicle so the car is not even leaking oil from any parts. 

 

Can u guys help me out with this piecular problem i have. Is this normal with this engine?

 

I was also told that this car needs a timing chain swap after certain kms. run....... Can someone shed some light on it please.

 

Thanks in advance.

Not that I'm an expert mechanic, but you did check the engine bottom cover for traces of oil, didn't you? On my motorbike I used to find condensed engine oil in the breather box; bikes tend to have a special evacuation system for that (plugged on modern bikes). Have you checked there (assuming car engines have an equivalent )

 

How did you check the exhaust smoke; car idling in neutral? IIRC one of the reason when an engine can get the consume oil is when the segments are getting worn (seals between the cylinders and cylinder walls). I think it stands to reason that this will happen first at higher pressures, i.e. when you're accelerating on a slope (or possibly, after you've done a sudden good bit of engine braking). If so, then you'd see it only from a follower vehicle. I wouldn't expect that kind of wear in a 2010 engine, but then your post doesn't say how many miles you have on the car.

Edited 30 March, 20197 yr by RJVB

39 minutes ago, RJVB said:

Not that I'm an expert mechanic, but you did check the engine bottom cover for traces of oil, didn't you? On my motorbike I used to find condensed engine oil in the breather box; bikes tend to have a special evacuation system for that (plugged on modern bikes). Have you checked there (assuming car engines have an equivalent )

 

How did you check the exhaust smoke; car idling in neutral? IIRC one of the reason when an engine can get the consume oil is when the segments are getting worn (seals between the cylinders and cylinder walls). I think it stands to reason that this will happen first at higher pressures, i.e. when you're accelerating on a slope (or possibly, after you've done a sudden good bit of engine braking). If so, then you'd see it only from a follower vehicle. I wouldn't expect that kind of wear in a 2010 engine, but then your post doesn't say how many miles you have on the car.

I followed my car using my bike and asked my friend to drive my car.......no smoke whatso ever from the car even on load. 

 

My car has done 63k kms in total which i dont think is a reason for the leak. I regularly change oil in 10k kms or 1 year and have been doing so for 3 years. 

 

I have observed one more thing that the car consumes more oil only if i am driving enthusiastically and with a heavy foot. On a light foot the oil consumptions r signafically less. Almost acceptable.

Edited 30 March, 20197 yr by Alexius727
Mistake in details.

I was going to reply to your remark about the oil specs. 0w instead of 5w means the oil is more liquid when cold. No idea how much more so in this case, and the rating is identical at working temperature (40). It oil consumption is noticeable only with a heavy foot the 0w spec shouldn't be responsible, I *think*.

 

How much oil is disappearing (per distance covered)? Someone here should be able to say if you're even supposed to see something at the level of the exhaust for those quantities. Or if it's worth it to have the compression verified.

2 minutes ago, RJVB said:

I was going to reply to your remark about the oil specs. 0w instead of 5w means the oil is more liquid when cold. No idea how much more so in this case, and the rating is identical at working temperature (40). It oil consumption is noticeable only with a heavy foot the 0w spec shouldn't be responsible, I *think*.

 

How much oil is disappearing (per distance covered)? Someone here should be able to say if you're even supposed to see something at the level of the exhaust for those quantities. Or if it's worth it to have the compression verified.

I edited it as i remember i am using 5w40 itself. Was pondering on the idea of using 0w40 but then thought to play safe rather than sorry.

 

Approx. 300-500 ml per 1000 kms higher side on a heavy foot.