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Does your seatbelt not fully retract, or retract slowly?

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This thread might be best placed in the techinical guide section, but thought it would get more views here. If moderators think it should be moved, thats ok.

Anyway after pulling my passanger seatbelt out to it's full strech, I noticed it wouldn't fully retract, so I decided to investigate. I found that there is a plastic guide, that guides the belt onto its reel that seems to be a weak point, and that it's lugs snap impeading the flow of the belt (Its happend on previous felicia's I have had) 

Shown in the picture below:

(I apologize for my super fancy seat covers in advance)

 

SAM_0040_zps4792b5bc.jpg

 

 

So here is a handy guide to repairing this issue with out buying a whole new seatbelt. I will also point out that this doesn't affect the safety aspect of the belt at all. But if you are unsure don't attempt this modification! Also if the guide isn't broken on inspection it's likley that the inertia reel is faulty and needs replacing.

 

To start remove the plastic trim over the seatbelt top securing bolt. Then the bolt it's self, with the top mount, make sure not to lose the washer, behind the bolt.

 

SAM_0034_zps146c5f59.jpg

 

 

SAM_0035_zps0366f126.jpg

 

Then remove the screw that holds the top trim in place, then release the trims from the door seal (make a mental note of how these fit for later) top trim first then bottom. (No screw holding bottom trim)

 

eb31e5ef-fc5b-4c7e-a8c5-046bae3d91c2_zps

 

Now you can get at the plastic guide, you can see the broken lug in this photo.

 

DSC00026_zpsdc6a2d5a.jpg

 

So a subsitute screw will have to be found. Top screw is a 38mm drywall screw, for comparrison purposes

 

DSC00027_zps92dc8d39.jpg

 

Cutting a thread with the drywall screw. Then with the final screw.

 

SAM_0041_zps6d8f70c1.jpg

 

SAM_0042_zpsa14e133f.jpg

 

Then it's just a case of putting the screw through the hole the broken lug used to fit into, and retaining the guide in place. Don't tighten the screw too much because you need the guide to still be able to swivel freely.

Here is Final fitting (photo taken from back seat)

 

DSC00028_zpsa3d6a6fe.jpg

 

Reverse removal process to refit trims/seat belt. Bottom trim clips behind the base trim. And make sure the trim is correctly located behind the door seal, as noted before.

Then check operation of the seatbelt.

Top mounting bolt torque = 40Nm

Thanks, nice write up.

Topic moved to technical guides section.

  • 2 weeks later...

My front seatbelts are lazy too. I checked for that broken plastic guide and it is intact. My impression is that:

  • the spring got weak
  • the seatbelt material got dirty & sticky -> bigger friction in top bracket

I will try to wash them with detergent.

  • 2 years later...

The washing of the belt and guides solved the problem.

  • 2 years later...
  • 4 weeks later...
2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Where do you spray that. 

Won't it leave oily residue. 

 

Dry, surface lubricant to treat mechanical parts of metal and plastic, where no residues of oil or grease are desired.

PTFE dry leaves no residues of oil or grease (dry film) and prevents wear and sticking. PTFE dry has a very low friction factor and an excellent adhesion and is resistant to weather influences. PTFE dry is suitable for parts which are liable to light load and low speed. MoTip PTFE Dry can also be used as release agent for moulds, where the use of silicones is not desired.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Believe it or not Teflon derivative sprays will leave marks on clothes just transparent ones. 

22 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Believe it or not Teflon derivative sprays will leave marks on clothes just transparent ones. 

 

I have done this in the past to the co-driver's belt

Mine is this: https://www.corbeau-seats.com/product/luke-ghr-3-point-harness/

 

No need to spray to the side which touches the clothes but the part which is inside the column and in the base of the retract mechanism.

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