How do you check the compression? Also found an interest post about one one unfortunate piston story.

http://www.sciroccocentral.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14390

I guess if you've got a 2011 car no way to tell if it has the newer pistons?

 

 

You need to get here first i.e. remove the plastic cover, remove the ignition coil

 

 

This is the tool I made myself (bent two nails and welded them to a metal rod)

 

 

You shine a light down and spark plug appears, remove using thin walled deep spark plug removal socket, 16mm if I remember correctly - enjoy my ash caked plug

 

 

 

Then you plug a compression tester in. My one is on a rubber hose with a plug at one end and dial at the other. You just turn the rubber hose finger tight

 

 

 

 

 

 

One thing not many people mention is the test procedure itself. What you need to do is to remove two fuses, one for ignition system and the other for fuel delivery. I think it was described as injectors or sth like that in the manual, cannot remember. I do remember it was straight forward. 

Then turn over the engine for few seconds and check the reading. Make sure you test one pot at a time with other plugs still in to maintain the overall system compression while engine is turning over. Some people test it on a workable hot engine some on cold. Thing is to work reasonably quick so temp stays the same.

Jabozuma excellent! Thanks for the detail description. I'm going remove the plugs to fit NGK 7's so I'll check this at same time. What should the compression range be?

I've been looking for upgraded coils to improve spark but could only find a couple. The ones previously discussed from okada which are very expensive and others from DTM called genesis hivolt yellow. I'm going give them a ring as not much info on the later ones but was wondering if you'd heard of them? Might be worth me creating a thread for them by itself.

Again i could take the view if it isn't broke don't fix it but surely there must be a better alternate to the standard OEM coils at a reasonable price.

Off the shelf you get "red R8" coil packs, expensive but cheaper than Okadas 

http://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=3606

http://www.awesomegti.com/red-ignition-coil-pack-set-2-0tfsi

 

Have not heard about the genesis ones but that means nothing

 

http://www.okadaprojects.com/usa/products_direct.htm   PD4002108R @ $835 is the part number I belive, but might be wrong so needs to be checked and confirmed before purchase. Okadas are needed for top levels of tune really. 

 

With better coils you can increase the spark plug gap to get better flame front geometry and stronger spark at top revs. 

Bump for Newbie69,  Zabozumas posts.

Cheers!

has anyone used the audi r8 packs ? i heard they were a wee bit longer than standard but the dogs swingers ?

Reading all this is putting me of tuning mine when it comes out of warranty

If your car is no older than 2 years there firms which will give you full 2 years warranty on their tuning . If you know what you are doing and car is healthy tuning is perfectly safe. There are twinchargers in Greece producing well over 400bhp...

Off the shelf you get "red R8" coil packs, expensive but cheaper than Okadas

http://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=3606

http://www.awesomegti.com/red-ignition-coil-pack-set-2-0tfsi

Have not heard about the genesis ones but that means nothing

http://www.okadaprojects.com/usa/products_direct.htm PD4002108R @ $835 is the part number I belive, but might be wrong so needs to be checked and confirmed before purchase. Okadas are needed for top levels of tune really.

With better coils you can increase the spark plug gap to get better flame front geometry and stronger spark at top revs.

These Coilpacks fit the 1.4 tsi? All websites state that they are only for 2.0T?

PD4002108R - this is Okada part number for the twincharger

 

The "Red R8" coil packs are indeed for the 2.0T motor, they are slightly longer than the OEM ones for the 1.4 twinchargers (so the retaining clips will not hold the coil packs and some other retaining mechnism has to be devised, say cable ties ) and the electrical clips have to be rotated 180 degs but otherwise it will fit no problem.

 

Unless you are taking the car past Stage 2 there is really no point in Okadas but the red tops might be worth fiddling with as they are pretty affordable. To get a benefit form them the plugs would have to have be re-gapped to larger gaps, value by experimentation.