It is a Sunglasses kind of Day, and later on with Dry roads & cooler air the Twincharger will be at its best.

 

Maybe at hand over ask the Salesperson to go grab a Tyre Pressure gauge and check the pressures and save paying 50 pence 

if the tyres need adjusted. (The Scottish way, 'Tight'.)

Then once the pressures are right, set the 'Tyre Pressure Monitor System / TPMS',

 Button beside the Hand Brake.

 

Please just for me.

When the car is sitting when you arrive, pop the Bonnet and dip the oil, and see where it is on the dipstick.

 

& Have Fun.

You and your dipstick , this is bordering on obsession !

20 miles out! Thanks guys it's definitely a fab day to be on the road. Took some cracking shots on my phone of scenery too.

Thankyou George I'll be sure to check and set a tyre pressures before I leave and I'll check the oil before I start the car. What should it be at?

richf,

It is a replacement engine fitted, and AC technicians and salespeople are known to over fill,   regularly, they put in too much oil.

 

so no point driving away with the oil over the top orange marker..

 

Each to your own if you know what you are doing.

 

..................

EDIT.

Sitting cold,  between the top of the Cross Hatch Area and the Orange Marker is OK. 

If above the top Orange Marker when cold, then they put in 3.9 or 4 litres. 

 

**Do not drive it until they get it in the Work shop, Drain the Oil and put in no more than 3.6 litres.**

 

PPS.

As someone reads this at Arnold Clark,  

they might just hot foot it out and pop the bonnet and check the oil.

Edited 5 February, 201511 yr by goneoffSKi

vRSFab92 - Enjoy your new car mate, you'll love it. I know I did when I had mine!

 

Sorry to bring up the whole 97 or 98 ron saga again........

 

BUT: I have not read any more phish on this forum than the view that 97 ron fuel is somehow better for the VRS than 99. 

 

Somebody needs to stop sniffing 97 ron fuel... :wonder:

Needs asking, well at least just to satisfy my nosiness.

 

Did it all go well, car purchased and home?

 

george

 

 

Modern cars advance and retard ignition to deal with low or high octane fuel - FACT. The specified fuel is specified for a reason - FACT.

 

 

I almost fell of my perch spasming from laughter ha ha ha ha.

 

I need to have a look in my fuel tank or somewhere in the car for that chemical lab which tests the octane value of the fuel so ECU can adjust the timings correctly. Or perhaps there is a setting somewhere I must have missed, like with winter tyres on the maxidot?

vxh26, why are you doing it to yourself pal? Have some sympathy for yourself, please!

I am sure, wherever you live there must be a library if you are not keen on buying books - go and read up a little bit.

You would be surprised how simple those things are called "the principles of internal combustion engine workings" are. Perhaps you might even find out that for "modern engines" RON number is not that important really and you should be looking at MON numbers instead. 

But this is never going to happen really as this would require a smidgen of interest in learning something, some self criticism and a pinch of humbleness.

All is well and home safe. Love the car.

Good.

I thought you were maybe car jacked before getting it home.

5 days to get back?

Thought these VRS's were sposed to be nippy?

No no just something else got me on the way back. M74. Unlucky going. It's quick. Shockingly quick

I almost fell of my perch spasming from laughter ha ha ha ha.

 

I need to have a look in my fuel tank or somewhere in the car for that chemical lab which tests the octane value of the fuel so ECU can adjust the timings correctly. Or perhaps there is a setting somewhere I must have missed, like with winter tyres on the maxidot?

vxh26, why are you doing it to yourself pal? Have some sympathy for yourself, please!

I am sure, wherever you live there must be a library if you are not keen on buying books - go and read up a little bit.

You would be surprised how simple those things are called "the principles of internal combustion engine workings" are. Perhaps you might even find out that for "modern engines" RON number is not that important really and you should be looking at MON numbers instead. 

But this is never going to happen really as this would require a smidgen of interest in learning something, some self criticism and a pinch of humbleness.

The car cant tell what fuel is in it but can tell whether there is knock or not using the knock sensors fitted to the ecu

 

The car has a map that has a series of timing "targets" at specified rpm's and loads

 

An Evo one looks like this

 

 

 

 

If the engine detects knock it "interpolates" between this ideal map* and an secondary map with much lower timing targets thus retarding the ignition, lower octane fuels are more likely to cause knock.  

 

On a modern engine you shouldn't feel knock since they are so good (when stock) at controlling it but you can often feel the difference in performance when the ignition is retarded

 

*Often the same can be said for the fuel map since adding more fuel can help reduce knock

 

What is knock - http://www.progl.com/General/detonation.htm

^ that. 

 

Fuel map and ignition map are interdependent and work together since with the same ignition advance you can get detonation if AFR to lean as well as getting lots of un-burnt fuel when AFR is very rich, say above 5.5k in vRS at full load to cool the combustion chamber. Fuel octane matters as the advance ceiling is theoretically higher for a tuner but that is for max performance gains. 

Counter intuitively, the lower octane fuel burns "easier", is more volatile compared to higher octane fuel i.e. it is more difficult to ignite the higher octane fuel. 

 

Check this out - this is how much fuel one of eight cylinders uses  in a 10k bhp top fuel/funny car dragster  - one might call it a tad rich lol.

Top fuel cars don't have to ignite that fuel for more than a couple of seconds as the cars burn out their plugs and are dieselling from half track or even earlier

The run lasts less than 4 secs in any case and nope, they don't, not intentionally by any stretch of imagination. They have two plugs per pot with arc welder strength spark going through them provided by twin MSD magnetos each delivering native 40amps current .

When plugs burn out, and they do from time to time, it is instantly obvious as you can see all that nitro squirting from the exhaust header (and it does not burn on exit). The loss of power is plainly evident  as well and unless the opponent suffers the same, lights up the rubber has the supercharger bakfire etc it is a lost run. What is also quite interesting is the fact that the exhaust generates enough downforce (between 1.0g and 1.5g) that when one pot or more is lost on one side the dragster goes instantly off course. 

That's awesome!

Not sure itll meet euro 6 though

Nitromethane ( CH3NO2 ) burnt in the engine produces nitric acid NHO3, rather poisonous **** - Euro6 I believe does not include nitric acid levels in combustion by products so it will be all fine lol.

Nitromethane ( CH3NO2 ) burnt in the engine produces nitric acid NHO3, rather poisonous **** - Euro6 I believe does not include nitric acid levels in combustion by products so it will be all fine lol.

Sorted then

When are ya dropping one into the skoda? Haha

The run lasts less than 4 secs in any case and nope, they don't, not intentionally by any stretch of imagination. They have two plugs per pot with arc welder strength spark going through them provided by twin MSD magnetos each delivering native 40amps current .

When plugs burn out, and they do from time to time, it is instantly obvious as you can see all that nitro squirting from the exhaust header (and it does not burn on exit). The loss of power is plainly evident  as well and unless the opponent suffers the same, lights up the rubber has the supercharger bakfire etc it is a lost run. What is also quite interesting is the fact that the exhaust generates enough downforce (between 1.0g and 1.5g) that when one pot or more is lost on one side the dragster goes instantly off course. 

 

 

Plugs always burn out but the cylinders dont always drop out . Nitro fumes can paralyse your diaphram so I was told , the worst thing is it is addictive and can become very expensive! I raced on and off for 13 years and worked on some nitro and alky bikes occasionally.

 

Some good stuff here especially from 2mins in

 

Preaching to the converted lol. I love that sport, unadulterated race to put the power down. Yes, agreed, plugs bur out and clutch plates are welded solid after each run. As far as I know the plugs melt after the run. If they do during the pot without spark might diesel away but it is nowhere near the power output from the ignited one. Ignition is massively advanced there (2015 NHRA introduced much heavier fuel and ignition is even more advanced!) and diesel combustion only starts near TDC when the pressures are the highest. Fuel is the coolant here so without plugs firing temps go down rapidly (nitro changes phase very fast thus cooling things rapidly) and dieseling stops. 

It all happens within 4 secs lol. 

 

That is a good vid

Sorted then

When are ya dropping one into the skoda? Haha

As a matter of fact I do have a small bottle of cut nitromethane at home so...

With twinchargers you'd probably be much better off with adding some castor oil

speaking of oil I've just put some v power nitro in the tank for the first time (sorry :-() and my check oil light has come on. What oil do I need to top it up with?

speaking of oil I've just put some v power nitro in the tank for the first time (sorry :-() and my check oil light has come on. What oil do I need to top it up with?

So youve had the car six days n the warning lights come on?

Did you check it when you first got the car?

How many miles have you done?

I hope its not going to be a user....

Slightly worrying :(.

Castrol Edge 5W30.