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The 280PS Thread


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Yes quite often, I regularly pass 4x4’s (Range Rovers etc) abandoned because they cannot get up the hill!!

 

They must be muppets mind as I also used to pass them without winter tyres fitted (but at a much slower speed!)

Edited by Gizmo68
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I assume they are using winter tyres in this video, but still this is very impressive!

Well not the winter tyres we have here up north. Those roads would've been driven with a FWD equipped with decent winter tyres, no problem. There are huge differences in "winter tyres" made for Central Europe and tyres made for real winter.

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I'm close to taking delivery of my 280. I have read loads of conflicting stuff about running in a new engine on the web.

Do you guys with 280s have any tips, any do's and don'ts when breaking in the new motor?

TIA

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I'm close to taking delivery of my 280. I have read loads of conflicting stuff about running in a new engine on the web.

Do you guys with 280s have any tips, any do's and don'ts when breaking in the new motor?

TIA

 

I was about to link you to my running in thread, but then I noticed you're posted in it. :D 

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Sorry mate I'd have linked it if I knew you was actively looking. 

 

RM... I think your running in post is worth a sticky.... Enough people ask the questions .... Lets see what Giz thinks ...

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This was probably asked a wile ago but, has anyone come across any numbers what the 280 will do around Nurburgring? I actively searching for that and films on dyno runs. Doesn't seem like anyone have tested or remapped a suberb yet. Or it's just me that's not searching good enough!

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I'm close to taking delivery of my 280. I have read loads of conflicting stuff about running in a new engine on the web.

Do you guys with 280s have any tips, any do's and don'ts when breaking in the new motor?

TIA

Hi,

My preference would be to run it in according to the Manufacturers instructions but probably for a bit longer but then crucially change the oil/filter as the former will be well past its best.

Even when the motor is bedded in properly the oil is pretty much shot at 5-6k, I know as always have it tested at refill.

 

Personal choice of course.

Cheers

Yves 

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Hi,

My preference would be to run it in according to the Manufacturers instructions but probably for a bit longer but then crucially change the oil/filter as the former will be well past its best.

Even when the motor is bedded in properly the oil is pretty much shot at 5-6k, I know as always have it tested at refill.

 

Personal choice of course.

Cheers

Yves 

I'm also thinking of buying the 280 by the way, awesome motor.

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Hi,

My preference would be to run it in according to the Manufacturers instructions but probably for a bit longer but then crucially change the oil/filter as the former will be well past its best.

Even when the motor is bedded in properly the oil is pretty much shot at 5-6k, I know as always have it tested at refill.

 

Personal choice of course.

Cheers

Yves 

 

I would be amazed if a VW 504.00 spec oil was 'shot' at 5k even during run-in. Was it 504.00 / longlife oil (eg Mobile 1, Castrol FST, Shell Helix) that you had tested?

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I would be amazed if a VW 504.00 spec oil was 'shot' at 5k even during run-in. Was it 504.00 / longlife oil (eg Mobile 1, Castrol FST, Shell Helix) that you had tested?

Original factory fit oil. Truth is the additive packs wear out quite quickly but you wouldn't know this in the absence of scientific oil analysis.

Cheers 

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Original factory fit oil. Truth is the additive packs wear out quite quickly but you wouldn't know this in the absence of scientific oil analysis.

Cheers 

 

So you guys would recommend an oil (and filter) change after running in the engine (2000-3000 km)?

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So you guys would recommend an oil (and filter) change after running in the engine (2000-3000 km)?

 

I would do especially as the cost is quite small. I buy my own oil/filter and get a local Skoda Specialist to do the work. £100 all in well spent!

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buy the oil and filter from skoda (or tps), and get yourself one of these suction pumps, a socket to fit the filter housing (36 mm iirc) and do it all from the top. the oil filter is plainly accessible, and then use the suction pump down the dipstick hole. make sure the car is on the flat, and you are good to go.

 

its a very clean and quick job, and you should get it done for less than a ton the first time, and cost of oil and filter thereafter. 

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Hmm, I’m a bit puzzled by all this out-of-schedule oil changing. When the ‘service required’ light comes on my dash, I book the car in and the oil also gets changed. Simples. Why do more than the manufacturer recommends (requires to cover the warranty)? They must set those schedules for a reason. Isn’t this getting a bit anal?

 

Modern cars are so low maintenance; I hardly ever check the oil anymore – virtually lost that habit long ago. I have no idea, or care, what type of oil it is. Relatively high performance they may be, but they’re hardly racing engines (or treated as such) where you do indeed need to be rather more thorough. 99.9% of the time they’re just used for gentle cruising, surely? Just get in, start it up and chillax.

 

BTW: If you so still have an oil-burner and feel it isn’t dirty enough, there’s a fix - http://www.nytimes.com/2016/09/05/business/energy-environment/rolling-coal-in-diesel-trucks-to-rebel-and-provoke.html:D

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Removing any type of emissions filters or fuel economy gizmos is a thriving business in the USA - just do an internet search and the results are all from across the pond. It always struck me as a bit hypocritical that they scream blue murder when companies fake their emissions then pay money to remove/override them anyway.

 

Isn’t this getting a bit anal?

 

Word-perfect quote of my thoughts about this thread in recent days  :thumbup:

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I didn't spend over 35K on a new car to open the bonnet!

It's booked in for an oil service on 13th October as directed to me by the car, (9k miles) why would I change the oil at any other time.

Edited by philsmith
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