Ooh I didn't see that....any chance of a link ?

 

No problem.

 

This is the one for the Estate

 

http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/SUPERB-III/Superb-III-Combi-flip-folding-boot-mat-textile-rubber-original-Skoda-Autoas

 

And this is the one for the Hatch

 

http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/SUPERB-III/Superb-III-Limousine-flip-folding-boot-mat-textile-rubber-original-Skoda-Autoas

 

A picture of it being used in the Hatch

 

http://www.superskoda.com/images/Interier/3V5061210.jpg

 

Happy to help

Today I've finally got around to fitting the mud flaps. It was pretty straightforward. I'll describe the process as best I can. This guide should be used in conjunction with the instructions on the packaging.

 

Tools used:

• Torx 25 socket bit & driver attachment
• Drill with 4mm & 7mm bits
• Pointed mini screwdriver or similar, needs to be less than 2mm wide
• Water pump pliers or similar
• Torch
• Something to lie/kneel on

 

Front nearside - (Without removing the wheel).

1. Turn the steering to full left hand lock to ease access.
2. Offer the front nearside mud flap up to the car to understand where the fixings are. There are fixing points on the vertical part of the wheelarch liner and one underneath. You will create a fourth fixing point by drilling into the plastic liner.
3. Use the Torx bit/driver to remove the two Torx screws on the vertical part of the wheelarch liner.
4. Look underneath and you will see what looks like a screw head, this is actually a plastic push fitting and you'll need your pointed mini screwdriver or similar to push the centre pin through to release the fitting. The pin you've pushed through can be recovered if you wish but both the pin and the push fitting are now redundant.
5. Now take one of the two metal speed clips provided and slide this onto the metalwork of the car body in line with where you've just removed the push fitting from. You'll have to pull the liner back a bit to do this, it's a bit fiddly. Ensure that you fit the clip the correct way up, the larger hole needs to be facing the floor.
6. Offer up the mud flap and put the new Torx screw supplied through the hole underneath, this should locate with the speed clip you've just fitted. Tighten the screw finger tight for now.
7. Replace the two original Torx screws through the other holes on the vertical of the mudflap. Ensure you're happy with the alignment before tightening both, then tighten the screw on the underside.
8. Now you need to drill the plastic wheelarch liner through the one remaining hole on the mud flap. At this point I found it easier to turn the steering to full right hand lock which allowed me to get the drill behind the wheel to drill in a straight line. I drilled a 4mm hole first, then used the 7mm bit to make the final size hole.
9. Insert the push fitting through the hole in the mud flap and into the hole just drilled, push it home tight.
10. That's one fitted, repeat for the front offside.

 

Rear - (Without removing the wheels).

1. Offer up the mud flap to see where the fixings will be.
2. There are two Torx screws underneath which are easily accessible, remove these.
3. I couldn't fit my Torx driver between the screw & the tyre face to remove the two vertical Torx screws. Rather than remove the wheel, I held the Torx socket bit in the mouth of a pair of water pump pliers and used this to start undoing the screw, then removed it by hand. A pair of pliers would probably do the same job.
4. Then offer up the mud flap, fix the inner most underside screw first, finger tight.
5. The top of the mud flap has a 'hook' which needs to be persuaded to go behind the fold of the bumper, it will go with a little gentle persuasion.
6. Replace the two vertical Torx screws using the pliers to tighten up.
7. Replace the second underside screw and tighten the first screw properly
8. That's it, repeat for the other side.

Please note that the rear mud flaps also come with speed clips and screws for the underside which UK cars (well mine at least) do not require.

 

Apologies for the lack of photos but hopefully someone will find this useful. 

 

Cheers.

Pete

Edited 10 December, 201510 yr by Pete T

Good guide, I did mine in situ as well.

 

I drilled the 7mm hole in one go with a sharp drill bit... it took no pressure and went through very easily, one issue if you do drill a pilot hole 1st is if it is not in the centre of the mud flap hole then the push fitting will be harder to fit.

 

 

Please note that the rear mud flaps also come with speed clips and screws for the underside which UK cars (well mine at least) do not require.

 

On the 190 at least, the n/s wheel arch liner has a hole in it which will line up with the mud flap

Good guide, I did mine in situ as well.

 

I drilled the 7mm hole in one go with a sharp drill bit... it took no pressure and went through very easily, one issue if you do drill a pilot hole 1st is if it is not in the centre of the mud flap hole then the push fitting will be harder to fit.

 

My 7mm bit is not particularly sharp and was just pushing the liner initially so I resorted to a 4mm to help it along. I was a little bothered about putting too much pressure on the drill as I was worried how far the bit would go through and what was behind it to potentially damage!

Today I've finally got around to fitting the mud flaps. It was pretty straightforward. I'll describe the process as best I can. This guide should be used in conjunction with the instructions on the packaging.

Tools used:

• Torx 25 socket bit & driver attachment
• Drill with 4mm & 7mm bits
• Pointed mini screwdriver or similar, needs to be less than 2mm wide
• Water pump pliers or similar
• Torch
• Something to lie/kneel on

Front nearside - (Without removing the wheel).

• Turn the steering to full left hand lock to ease access.
• Offer the front nearside mud flap up to the car to understand where the fixings are. There are fixing points on the vertical part of the wheelarch liner and one underneath. You will create a fourth fixing point by drilling into the plastic liner.
• Use the Torx bit/driver to remove the two Torx screws on the vertical part of the wheelarch liner.
• Look underneath and you will see what looks like a screw head, this is actually a plastic push fitting and you'll need your pointed mini screwdriver or similar to push the centre pin through to release the fitting. The pin you've pushed through can be recovered if you wish but both the pin and the push fitting are now redundant.
• Now take one of the two metal speed clips provided and slide this onto the metalwork of the car body in line with where you've just removed the push fitting from. You'll have to pull the liner back a bit to do this, it's a bit fiddly. Ensure that you fit the clip the correct way up, the larger hole needs to be facing the floor.
• Offer up the mud flap and put the new Torx screw supplied through the hole underneath, this should locate with the speed clip you've just fitted. Tighten the screw finger tight for now.
• Replace the two original Torx screws through the other holes on the vertical of the mudflap. Ensure you're happy with the alignment before tightening both, then tighten the screw on the underside.
• Now you need to drill the plastic wheelarch liner through the one remaining hole on the mud flap. At this point I found it easier to turn the steering to full right hand lock which allowed me to get the drill behind the wheel to drill in a straight line. I drilled a 4mm hole first, then used the 7mm bit to make the final size hole.
• Insert the push fitting through the hole in the mud flap and into the hole just drilled, push it home tight.
• That's one fitted, repeat for the front offside.

Rear - (Without removing the wheels).

• Offer up the mud flap to see where the fixings will be.
• There are two Torx screws underneath which are easily accessible, remove these.
• I couldn't fit my Torx driver between the screw & the tyre face to remove the two vertical Torx screws. Rather than remove the wheel, I held the Torx socket bit in the mouth of a pair of water pump pliers and used this to start undoing the screw, then removed it by hand. A pair of pliers would probably do the same job.
• Then offer up the mud flap, fix the inner most underside screw first, finger tight.
• The top of the mud flap has a 'hook' which needs to be persuaded to go behind the fold of the bumper, it will go with a little gentle persuasion.
• Replace the two vertical Torx screws using the pliers to tighten up.
• Replace the second underside screw and tighten the first screw properly
• That's it, repeat for the other side.

Please note that the rear mud flaps also come with speed clips and screws for the underside which UK cars (well mine at least) do not require.

Apologies for the lack of photos but hopefully someone will find this useful.

Cheers.

Pete

Thanks Pete,

Got a set of mud flaps for Christmas together with some rubber mats. Was really easy fitting them using your instructions as a guide. I did need to fit the two speed clips on my rear guards (I've got an estate/combi).

Hopefully this will decrease spray up the sides and stop my door sills filling up with grime and silt.

Matt

They do make a huge difference on the estate/combi but they havent completely stopped that annoying muck in the door sills on mine. Still get muck in the cills and the sides but none of the heavy splattery stuff.

+1 on that. They do help keep the worst off the car.

Today I've finally got around to fitting the mud flaps. It was pretty straightforward. I'll describe the process as best I can. This guide should be used in conjunction with the instructions on the packaging.

 

Tools used:

• Torx 25 socket bit & driver attachment
• Drill with 4mm & 7mm bits
• Pointed mini screwdriver or similar, needs to be less than 2mm wide
• Water pump pliers or similar
• Torch
• Something to lie/kneel on

Front nearside - (Without removing the wheel).

• Turn the steering to full left hand lock to ease access.
• Offer the front nearside mud flap up to the car to understand where the fixings are. There are fixing points on the vertical part of the wheelarch liner and one underneath. You will create a fourth fixing point by drilling into the plastic liner.
• Use the Torx bit/driver to remove the two Torx screws on the vertical part of the wheelarch liner.
• Look underneath and you will see what looks like a screw head, this is actually a plastic push fitting and you'll need your pointed mini screwdriver or similar to push the centre pin through to release the fitting. The pin you've pushed through can be recovered if you wish but both the pin and the push fitting are now redundant.
• Now take one of the two metal speed clips provided and slide this onto the metalwork of the car body in line with where you've just removed the push fitting from. You'll have to pull the liner back a bit to do this, it's a bit fiddly. Ensure that you fit the clip the correct way up, the larger hole needs to be facing the floor.
• Offer up the mud flap and put the new Torx screw supplied through the hole underneath, this should locate with the speed clip you've just fitted. Tighten the screw finger tight for now.
• Replace the two original Torx screws through the other holes on the vertical of the mudflap. Ensure you're happy with the alignment before tightening both, then tighten the screw on the underside.
• Now you need to drill the plastic wheelarch liner through the one remaining hole on the mud flap. At this point I found it easier to turn the steering to full right hand lock which allowed me to get the drill behind the wheel to drill in a straight line. I drilled a 4mm hole first, then used the 7mm bit to make the final size hole.
• Insert the push fitting through the hole in the mud flap and into the hole just drilled, push it home tight.
• That's one fitted, repeat for the front offside.

Rear - (Without removing the wheels).

• Offer up the mud flap to see where the fixings will be.
• There are two Torx screws underneath which are easily accessible, remove these.
• I couldn't fit my Torx driver between the screw & the tyre face to remove the two vertical Torx screws. Rather than remove the wheel, I held the Torx socket bit in the mouth of a pair of water pump pliers and used this to start undoing the screw, then removed it by hand. A pair of pliers would probably do the same job.
• Then offer up the mud flap, fix the inner most underside screw first, finger tight.
• The top of the mud flap has a 'hook' which needs to be persuaded to go behind the fold of the bumper, it will go with a little gentle persuasion.
• Replace the two vertical Torx screws using the pliers to tighten up.
• Replace the second underside screw and tighten the first screw properly
• That's it, repeat for the other side.

Please note that the rear mud flaps also come with speed clips and screws for the underside which UK cars (well mine at least) do not require.

 

Apologies for the lack of photos but hopefully someone will find this useful. 

 

Cheers.

Pete

Can I ask if you have 18" or 19" wheels?

Can I ask if you have 18" or 19" wheels?

17" Stratos.

17" Stratos.

Thank you

Can I ask if you have 18" or 19" wheels?

 

Mine has 19” and the process is the same

Mine has 19” and the process is the same

Thank you, I was wondering if you might have to take the wheels off to fit them if you had the 19" wheels fitted

Thank you, I was wondering if you might have to take the wheels off to fit them if you had the 19" wheels fitted

 

Don’t get me wrong on the rear ones it is very tight, I could not get my ¼” ratchet in there so I used the torx bit with my fingers and then nipped them up with a spanner on the torx bit.

 

My ¼” UJ joint was knackered though so I couldn’t use it so it was fingers or remove the wheels, the front ones were not an issue as you just turn the steering wheel (which you need to do to drill the hole anyway)

Installed mine this afternoon, nice and simple. The Spring clips are a bit tight for the fronts! Not sure they look very good but if they stop some chips I'm happy.

Edited 16 January, 201610 yr by nicowalker85

Don’t get me wrong on the rear ones it is very tight, I could not get my ¼” ratchet in there so I used the torx bit with my fingers and then nipped them up with a spanner on the torx bit.

 

My ¼” UJ joint was knackered though so I couldn’t use it so it was fingers or remove the wheels, the front ones were not an issue as you just turn the steering wheel (which you need to do to drill the hole anyway)

Cheers Gizmo68

Quick question, can you get skoda to fit Mud Flaps as an option? I'm looking at a lease car, so don't want to be drilling holes in it if i can help it. Cheers

Quick question, can you get skoda to fit Mud Flaps as an option? I'm looking at a lease car, so don't want to be drilling holes in it if i can help it. Cheers

The only holes you might need to drill is in the plastic inner wing. So no harm done whatsoever.

OK cheers

Quick question, can you get skoda to fit Mud Flaps as an option? I'm looking at a lease car, so don't want to be drilling holes in it if i can help it. Cheers

 

yeah I did. Just asked them to fir prior to pickup. They charge though. I'm a lazy git :-)

Any photos of installed flaps. May invest in some if you chaps out there think they do a job of reducing muck up the sides and back of the motor.

yeah I did. Just asked them to fir prior to pickup. They charge though. I'm a lazy git :-)

Same here. Paying them to whack em on after I ordered them from Superskoda. They're doing the pedals for me too as I just can't be bothered (and don't want to get it wrong!)

Can't wait to pick up on Saturday morning!

Mud flaps look fine, not too obvious. That is, they dont look aftermarket.

They do improve the muck on the side significantly but not altogether. Much as expected really. Crap that would build up under the cills behind the wheel arches is much reduced.

 

Worth every penny from Superskoda and being another lazy old so I got my local fixer to do them for £25. All done for less than Skoda UK want to charge you for the flaps.

Any photos of installed flaps. May invest in some if you chaps out there think they do a job of reducing muck up the sides and back of the motor.

 

You can see mine here : http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/367311-the-superb-iii-picture-thread/page-15

I pick my car up on friday. Cheeky sod i am the dealer is fitting some i bought on superskoda on the pdi. Great customer service and saves me messing about crawling on the floor in the cold and wet.

Gratus that is. I have spent a lot of money with them. Might be worth a cheeky ask from your dealer.