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Build quality of Superb III


mtl

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Like others, I have the dashboard vibration, appearing to come from top centre. It's definitely not trim related.

It first happened just above tickover when cold, but after a couple of visits the dealer fixed that ("moved heater pipes"), but it has now morphed into doing it at around 1800 rpm under slight load with a hot engine. The dealer has subsequently had three goes at it, including removing the dashboard and re-siting the heater box, without success (although I think it might have improved slightly). It's mostly reproducable when driving up a hill so you can keep it at 1700-1900 revs while under constant load. On the flat you zip through that rev band pretty quickly, so it's not so intrusive.

It hasn't been doing it so much when the outside temperature has been below about five degrees Centigrade so I'm guessing it's something to do with external air temperature, so possibly exhaust pipe/heat shielding related? I'll take it in again when the weather warms up and I'll let you know if they crack it.

Five visits so far, so they're doing their best!

  

The vibration is very temperature sensitive... seems not so bad at 5 degrees C and below.

I've also had the glovebox pop open, and rattle occasionally. A bit of pressure top left and just left of the latch helps the lugs to engage - seems to improve things.

Going in to the dealer again (5th time) tomorrow for the dashboard vibration - but the weather's going to be cold, so I don't know if I can reproduce it!

  

Took it in today and they're going to order a replacement part at the rear of the engine bay at the top, which is a sort of junction box of pipework (heating I assume) before they pass through the bulkhead. Apparently the part has been redesigned. I'm hopeful this will fix it... I'll let you know if it does!

Took it in today and they're going to order a replacement part at the rear of the engine bay at the top, which is a sort of junction box of pipework (heating I assume) before they pass through the bulkhead. Apparently the part has been redesigned. I'm hopeful this will fix it... I'll let you know if it does!

 

Repacement part fitted, no difference.

I think I'll get in touch with Skoda Customer Services and see what they have to say.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 14:27, dstev2000 said:

I've taken a proper look at this infuriating luggage cover rattle. 

 

I removed the cover and took it indoors. I opened it out and wedged the mechanism to stop it winding back in before suspending the back of the cover (where the pull handle is) between to dining room chairs to simulate its position in the car. 

 

By tapping the back of the cover, I could recreate the rattle it made in the car. I removed the plastic handle (3 Torx screws) to ensure it wasn't that. With it removed, the rattle was STILL there. 

 

I replaced the handle and checked it again. I finally tracked it down to the bar that runs the width of the cover, just in front of the handle. 

 

It appears there is a thin piece of metal wrapped around the plastic that runs from one side to the other, presumably to add stiffness. It was this thin metal that was tapping against the plastic inner. 

 

Note: the following paragraph is highly technical, so please try and keep up with me on this one......

 

I clouted it three times with a small hammer which essentially pressed the steel up against the plastic inner  :giggle:

 

I've replaced the cover and there aren't any rattles so far. Fingers crossed the next few days will prove if my high tech fix has worked. 

 

post-6717-0-96903400-1461849915_thumb.jpg

 

 

Mine does this too.

 

Fully open...  no rattle

Half open...  no rattle 

Fully closed.... rattles badly on rough roads

 

Thanks for the tip

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57 minutes ago, Mickey43 said:

Mine does this too.

 

Fully open...  no rattle

Half open...  no rattle 

Fully closed.... rattles badly on rough roads

 

Thanks for the tip

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. But the rattle hasn't completely gone away. It seems to be where the plastic latches lock in place when the cover is completely closed. The hard plastic is probably the cause of it. To be honest it's the least of the car's problems at the moment so I've not investigated further. 

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29 minutes ago, dstev2000 said:

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. But the rattle hasn't completely gone away. It seems to be where the plastic latches lock in place when the cover is completely closed. The hard plastic is probably the cause of it. To be honest it's the least of the car's problems at the moment so I've not investigated further. 

Thanks 

 

Might just leave it half shut!!!  

 

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  • 6 months later...

Has anyone gotten to the bottom of the dash vibration? My car has 300km on it and is only a couple of days old. It's had it since I picked it up and it's quite loud, between about 1200-2000 rpm. It's a MY18 190 manual. 

 

I'm going to remove the trim around the wipers to see if there is anything lose or potentially vibrating there. I've heard something about heating pipes so I want to make sure they're secure. 

 

Any other ideas?

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5 hours ago, Steviedakota said:

Eoin, the car is under warranty so bring it back to have that rattle seen to. If you go at it yourself your risk voiding the warranty on any repair.

 

It's going in tomorrow. I only had a quick look at anything obvious tbh. Nothing seems like it would cause a rattle. It's gotten quite bad now so hopefully it's sorted. Kind of ruining the new car buzz. 

Edited by EoinM
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Hello!

 

I´ve owned the S3 for roughly 1,5 years for now.

The worst part about the car is definetly the build quality.

At this point I call my car the four seasons, because every season one rattle leaves the RATTLE team and one rattle joins the team.

In winter the center dash is the allstar of the team.

In summer the air vents and safety belt plastic pieces rattle.

And so on and so on. Pretty much every rattle that I have has gone through this topic atleast once.

The main thing is that at the beginning there were numerous times when I drove the car to the dealer, but no success thus far.

They can´t either understand it or they do not seem it is necessary to fix it. All in all a lot of wasted time through out the time I´ve owned this car.

But for the client, even if you do not need to pay for the inspection it is still a waste of time.

So I gave it up. I still like the car, but concerning the fact that I spent 30k and my dads 2 year older -8k VW Golf has a better build quality makes me a little bit sad.

Don´t get me wrong, every car has its rattles, even the beloved Audi and BMW do, but for 30k you should have some of them, not season-various rattles.

My suggestion to your guys is simple, turn up the volume and drive. Nobody will give you back the time it takes, and as long as I´ve read this topic then it becomes more and more clear, that Skoda services can´t really fix these problems.

 

 

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Some dont rattle as some owners comment but a lot do. Spend over 30k with this brand does not ensure you will receive any better quality than any other mainstream brand. 

A lot of the rattles are poor quality materials badly engineered to fit.

Also when reading through the forum it appears no skoda leaves the line the same thus repeatable quality is not maintained.

 

My octavia had its problems but i liked the dsg so much i stayed with skoda. This dsg at present in my superb is pathetic and this car cost 10k more! Figure that out.

 

It also rattles and creaks like the mary rose in rough sea. How on earth skoda have the nerve to call this a premium family car. Granted the car was quiet on the test drive thus i can only deduce after adding only 1000 miles in 2 months most pieces in the car have come loose. 

 

The dealer will be getting this car to fix. But as its second time around with grief and problems its skoda no more. I just dont get what its about. Cheap (not really), well made owing to the VAG connection (in a lot of cases NO).

 

If i had to buy from VAG again it would be a SEAT. i would expect that car to be crap so i would never be disappointed.

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Went to the dealers today. Two heater pipes were rubbing off each other.  Separated them a little and and I was out in about 20 mins. And no damage from messing around with it. I'm absolutely delighted with it. 

 

Finbarr Galvin's in Cork if any of the Irish lads are having the issue, service department there is always excellent. 

Edited by EoinM
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On 08/09/2017 at 21:22, EoinM said:

Went to the dealers today. Two heater pipes were rubbing off each other.  Separated them a little and and I was out in about 20 mins. And no damage from messing around with it. I'm absolutely delighted with it. 

 

Finbarr Galvin's in Cork if any of the Irish lads are having the issue, service department there is always excellent. 

That was the same problem and cure for mine. 

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On 5/31/2016 at 11:40, drex said:

I have the exact same issue with my Estate. Contacted the dealer, hopefully get it back to them soon so they can sort it out. Minor annoyance. 

 

Dropped my Nov 2015 estate into the dealer with this issue today. Described it in person to a member of staff on Monday evening, showing them how the trim at the top of the offside rear door had been bent and was sticking out. Work order I signed at the garage this morning simply referred to fixing this section of rear door trim....

 

Explained issue again.  I had intended getting them to check the driver's door at the November service this year as the seal has never really been good -- you repeatedly hear noise from it when driving over even minor road imperfections. The door has always been a little reluctant to shut at first time of asking, though I'm not someone who slams car doors shut, and there is sometimes a bit of a clunk when opening the door from the inside that sounds and feels like it is coming from the lock at the B pillar. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Anybody have a squeak from the centre console on a 220 sports line mainly on cornering

Very annoying !!!

 

Trip to Skoda service its only 6 weeks old but a great car.

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On 14/09/2017 at 10:26, T800 said:

Dropped my Nov 2015 estate into the dealer with this issue today. Described it in person to a member of staff on Monday evening, showing them how the trim at the top of the offside rear door had been bent and was sticking out. Work order I signed at the garage this morning simply referred to fixing this section of rear door trim....

 

Explained issue again.  I had intended getting them to check the driver's door at the November service this year as the seal has never really been good -- you repeatedly hear noise from it when driving over even minor road imperfections. The door has always been a little reluctant to shut at first time of asking, though I'm not someone who slams car doors shut, and there is sometimes a bit of a clunk when opening the door from the inside that sounds and feels like it is coming from the lock at the B pillar. 

 

Well, the work was done on the day. Trim on offside rear door seems OK. I think it was just pushed back into place rather than having any bonding agent applied to it. The driver's door seems to close more easily. I'm still hearing more noise from the door seal than I would like, though, as if the seal is inadequate and little bursts of air are moving past it. This is just at low speeds on a commute -- haven't been on a main road with the car since the work was done. The chrome strips at the top of the offside doors are now noticeably out of alignment.

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  • 6 months later...

Hello 

 

well ive seen on here people having problems with vibration. Well I have a 65 plate Skoda superb with 65k on the clock and I have found out what the cause of the vibrations and it’s the flywheel (£1500) to replace. I’m a taxi driver so hence 2yr warranty. Gutted. Also to add I’ve had 4 shock absorbers go on the car at 40k.  My car 65 L&k manual.  

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Difficult to see how 4 shock absorbers could have gone in 3 years. What mileage? Different or same positions? Or did you replace them as pairs? Standard shocks or DCC?

Edited by xman
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So the car has 65k. And the front had been replaced and the left rear. It has the adaptive suspension. The big problem I have is a flywheel going wrong on what I class as relatively low milage. The shocks were leaking. Being a taxi in my area we have a compliance test which is very in-depth and you get failed very easily. 

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On 28/04/2018 at 13:31, r500ude said:

So the car has 65k. And the front had been replaced and the left rear. It has the adaptive suspension. The big problem I have is a flywheel going wrong on what I class as relatively low milage. The shocks were leaking. Being a taxi in my area we have a compliance test which is very in-depth and you get failed very easily. 

Hi what was the symptoms of the faulty fly wheel?

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Well they haven’t said what caused it. However they’re going to pay 70% of the bill. Which I’m ok with. Although the mechanic wasn’t surprised by the fault. 

 

A horrible clicking noise over the engine and also sounds like a tractor. 

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