Superb II Detachable Tow Bar recommendations

[mushroomnr]

On 27/11/2020 at 09:25, mushroomnr said:

 

Is it something like that ?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-VW-POLO-6R-13-PIN-TOWBAR-TOWING-ELECTRICS-WIRING-KIT-ECU/283028496851?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225114%26meid%3D4e2c11791a914f17a494da1df0ea7896%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D283028496851%26itm%3D283028496851%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DVW&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A513bbd8b-3092-11eb-b5bd-2a35f04cbef1|parentrq%3A0904724e1760acc737a64181fff85a18|iid%3A1

 

 

 

Hello all,

 

Can someone confirm that it will fit my superb ? I can extend cables, that is not a problem, just would like to confirm that this unit will fit and work as it should  ? 

[Walder]

I have ordered this the other week and hopefully will be fitted by the end of Monday along with my ebaich springs 

 

https://www.pfjones.co.uk/skoda-superb-estate-dec-2009-2015-westfalia-detachable-towbar.html

[G2EO]

Hi all, 

 

I'm also posting in this feed because I've installed a OEM wiring but I wanted to know if someone who did this also could share me is long coding of the trailer module ? 

Cause it seems mine is brand new and need to be coded. My long coding is : 010000010000000

 

Regards

[G2EO]

53 minutes ago, G2EO said:

Hi all, 

 

I'm also posting in this feed because I've installed a OEM wiring but I wanted to know if someone who did this also could share me is long coding of the trailer module ? 

Cause it seems mine is brand new and need to be coded. My long coding is : 010000010000000

 

Regards

 

i found it my self the long code is 010000020000000

[chimaera]

I have mine set to 010D000101000000. Can't remember what settings that corresponds to though. The long coding helper in VCDS is pretty good at highlighting what the options are.

[G2EO]

8 minutes ago, chimaera said:

I have mine set to 010D000101000000. Can't remember what settings that corresponds to though. The long coding helper in VCDS is pretty good at highlighting what the options are.

This is what is in the long coding helper

 

BYTE 0 : 00 control module not coded/ 01 rest of the world/ 02 North American Region/ 03 Australia

BYTE 1 : 00 control module not coded/ 0D Type/ Swiveling Function: Fixed/ detachable/ Preparation [PR-1D1/1D2/1D7]

BYTE 2:  no info

BYTE 3 : 00 terminal 30 Output switched (Pin 9) NOT active/ 01 terminal 30 Output switched (Pin 9) active/ 02 terminal 30 Output switched (Pin 9) active while Trailer connected

BYTE 4 :  00 terminal 30 Output (Pin 10/Chargin Relay) NOT active/ 01 terminal 30 Output (Pin 10/Chargin Relay) active [OLD]/ 02 terminal 30 Output (Pin 10/Chargin Relay) active while Trailer connected/ 01 terminal 30 Output (Pin 10/Chargin Relay) active [NEW]

BYTE 5 : no info

BYTE 6 : no info

BYTE 7 : no info

[G2EO]

Hello, 

 

I have a big problem with my OEM installation. I ran out of battery since i've installed the tow bar.

So I've install a new battery and took some mesures. I've follow once again all the tutorial of @Lutzwhich is really complete and I have done all the same wiring. But i took mesures with a multimeter of which fuse is causing a drop of power (didn't know the english word sorry :s ) and it appears that when I remove fuses in position 44 (20 amp) and 45 (15 amp) the drop of power stop. 

Could you help me please and explain why I have a consumption of power when those two fuses are back in place ? 

 

Normaly when your cars is closed with all lights off etc your multimeter must indicate between max 0.05mAmp and min 0.01mAmp. For me with the fuses back on the multimeter indicate 3.7Amp 

 

Could someone help me please ?? 

 

Best regards! 

[3T51704x4]

Where did you connect the three wires going to 43 44 and 45? 
Which kit did you use? 13 or 7 pin?

which wiring diagram did you use?

is anything connected to the tow plug?

Do you have the additional relay kit?

Has the tow ecu been coded?

Is it a second hand (previously installed) kit?

Do you have experience with Skoda wiring diagrams?

Can you take a photo of the two ecu and rear of the SC fuse box showing where the three wires going into 43 44 45 go to?

No magic fix, you have to work through methodically to find out where you went wrong or if the ecu is pulling current. 
Do you have a split charge system?

Have you  installed the two battery mod in your car?

70 mA is the factory limit for static current as you already know 3.7A (3700 mA) is way too high 47watts and will kill the battery quickly.

[G2EO]

11 hours ago, 3T51704x4 said:

Where did you connect the three wires going to 43 44 and 45? The 3 wires goes in one which is plugged in the 
Which kit did you use? 13 or 7 pin? It's a 13 pin. But unfortunately I bought the following reference : EEA 800 004 EL which is for vehicules which are pre-wired to received the tow bar. But mine isn't, so I bought a second wiring kit (for a VW) and I create the second part of the wiring).

which wiring diagram did you use? I used the one found in previous pages of this topic

is anything connected to the tow plug? Not yet

Do you have the additional relay kit? My wiring is connected to a module which as this reference : 1K0 907 383F is this one ? Or a second one ? If it's a second one I didn't have one.

Has the tow ecu been coded? The tow ECU was  brand new and originaly coded like this : 010000010000000 now it's code like this : 010D00020100000

Is it a second hand (previously installed) kit? Nope a new one like i said above it was incomplete so I had to "built" the second part (going to the fusebox)

Do you have experience with Skoda wiring diagrams? I can read some wiring diagrams but couldn't find any on the web :( 

Can you take a photo of the two ecu and rear of the SC fuse box showing where the three wires going into 43 44 45 go to? I have only one ECU in the left of the trunk for the three wires going into 43,44,45 do you mean the red ones or the others color ? For the red one I connect it to the spare permanent terminal of the fusebox

No magic fix, you have to work through methodically to find out where you went wrong or if the ecu is pulling current. 
Do you have a split charge system? I temporarly disconnected the battery to prevent it from discharging. 

Have you  installed the two battery mod in your car? Nope could you tell me more about it ? 

70 mA is the factory limit for static current as you already know 3.7A (3700 mA) is way too high 47watts and will kill the battery quickly. Yeah I know that's why i really want to solve this mess to correctly use my tow bar.

 

Thanks for your reply! 

 

I aswered your question inside the quote  

[G2EO]

Where did you connect the three wires going to 43 44 and 45? The 3 wires goes in one which is plugged in the permanent live feed

 

Sorry I didn't finish my sentence ^^ 

[3T51704x4]

So if when you remove the two fuses your load disappears, you just need to leave those two fuses disconnected rather than disconnect the battery. 

Then you need to work back to the trailer ecu. As the two fuses are affected, you may have trapped the two wires when putting the car trims back together. Or you have connected the wrong wires to the output side of 44 and 45.

Also check the wires in the tow plug are terminated correctly with no loose strands shorting to another pin.

[G2EO]

1 hour ago, 3T51704x4 said:

So if when you remove the two fuses your load disappears, you just need to leave those two fuses disconnected rather than disconnect the battery. 

Then you need to work back to the trailer ecu. As the two fuses are affected, you may have trapped the two wires when putting the car trims back together. Or you have connected the wrong wires to the output side of 44 and 45.

Also check the wires in the tow plug are terminated correctly with no loose strands shorting to another pin.

 

Ok i'll try to look at the 13 pins if there's something wrong.

Do you have any wiring diagram for the trailer ECU ? 

[3T51704x4]

These are the fitting instructions from my kit. I have access to online Elsa CFDs but I am forbidden to post on here as it is a live factory document and it has my watermark ID on it.

29220508PF_SKODA_Superb_12_13.pdf

[LuPuS]

1 hour ago, G2EO said:

 

Ok i'll try to look at the 13 pins if there's something wrong.

Do you have any wiring diagram for the trailer ECU ? 

 

[3T51704x4]

Sometimes it is easier to buy the one for your exact car to reduce the chance of these problems. They are more expensive, but in terms of sorting things out time wise, it is the better option, same with buying parts from TPS, you get the latest revision and know it will fit first time (assuming the parts specialist knows their stuff).

Regarding the second battery retrofit, I did some info way back when.

[3T51704x4]

@LuPuSThanks!

 

So if both 44 and 45 pull 3.7A; disconnect the ecu plug. If they still pull 3.7A the fault is a trapped wire. If the load disappears, the fault is either the ecu or further towards the 13 pin plug.

No load should be pulled IF connected correctly with nothing connected to the trailer plug.

The other option is you don't have white/red  (ws/ro) wires going to output of 44 and 45 and something else is connected to the permanent feed.

Edited 21 December, 2020 by 3T51704x4

[chimaera]

I pulled this map of the two connectors on the OE controller from the wiring diagrams a while back: it gives pin assignments and wire colours for both connectors. Weirdly, the factory wiring diagrams never show the SC9 connection which the Skoda installation kit comes with, so I've no idea exactly what it does or where it connects on the controller. 

trailer_wiring_summary.pdf

[chimaera]

Pin 10 on the 13-pin trailer connector routes straight back to the SC fuse panel, to one of 43/44/45 (I can't recall which) so I'd start by looking at those three and make sure they run correctly. I would also double check the pin assignments on the 13-pin connector. Mine had two pins mixed up during manufacture and it drove me mad trying to find the problem. They push out of the housing to the rear if you do need to swap them.

[G2EO]

6 minutes ago, 3T51704x4 said:

Sometimes it is easier to buy the one for your exact car to reduce the chance of these problems. They are more expensive, but in terms of sorting things out time wise, it is the better option, same with buying parts from TPS, you get the latest revision and know it will fit first time (assuming the parts specialist knows their stuff).

Regarding the second battery retrofit, I did some info way back when.

 

A huge thanks for the wiring diagram! I'll look at it closely! @LuPuS

Thanks @chimaera also for your correspondant table it'll be precious ! 

 

@3T51704x4I totally agreed with you concerning buying the parts for your car. That's what I was thinking ordering the first kit but when I opened the package I was really surprise to see that I've made a mistake for just one digit (3 instead of 4) in the ref. 

Sorry but what's the acronym TPS for ? 

 

I'll check all the tracks you gave me to resolve this mess ^^ 

[LuPuS]

@G2EO
 

No problem. Keep yourself busy over xmas

[3T51704x4]

Hope you get to the bottom of your issue quickly, at least you can keep your battery connected and use the car by just having the fuses removed.

TPS is a branch of Volkswagen AG, they supply genuine parts to the automotive industry and operate a franchise system mainly to owners of the main dealers like Inchcape group, JCB, Harwoods etc. I only buy parts for my car from them, unless it is an accessory like a removable towbar or Blackvue dashcam.

 

Look closely at the changes which need to be made to the other vehicle control units so they know a tow bar is fitted, most important one is 03 the brake system ecu so ESP is coded correctly with a trailer fitted. Also you don't want your parking sensors working with a trailer, or your (auto park system if fitted) along with the rad fan needing to work differently should you be in a hot country with a caravan towing in the mountains for example. 

By logging into the factory system, all changes are made with a single code input, but most folks need to do it manually with something like VCDS, lots of other companies are starting to emerge which can do the same, I only have experience with VCDS HEX NET and ODIS-S and E.

[G2EO]

Quick post to whish you all a happy new year! And also give you some updates  I finaly succeed to find where was the issue in my wiring and could fix it, so everything is fine now! Thank you so much for you help  

[rover220]

On 04/01/2021 at 16:27, G2EO said:

Quick post to whish you all a happy new year! And also give you some updates  I finaly succeed to find where was the issue in my wiring and could fix it, so everything is fine now! Thank you so much for you help  

Perhaps share what the issue was, may help future posters. 

[G2EO]

On 05/01/2021 at 23:18, rover220 said:

Perhaps share what the issue was, may help future posters. 

Yep, I had a problem with a shore to ground and inversion between pos 8 and 43 

[leszek_c]

On 18/08/2020 at 16:40, Yearofthegoat said:

Cheers.

 

I've managed to get the wiring up and into the dash, all okay so far.  Like you @rover220 I managed to fish the wire through from the wheel arch to the dash. Didn't need to remove the B pillar trim other than a little at the bottom of the rear OS passenger door.

 

The last piece of the puzzle is the fuse wiring.

 

The instructions show this:

 

 

I got the pink secondary lock slid over okay, and the correct wires are in 43, 44 and 45. They've clicked in, feel sound.

 

However, judging by the diagram, it seems that the other end of the 3-wire connector plugs into the bottom half of the aircon fuse location (unless I've mis-read the diagram). There is no tab sticking up from that location and of course there is already a wire in there - for the aircon I presume.

 

This is probably a laughably simple thing for someone who's done this before, but where can I connect that "B+/30" end?  (B+/30 means positve buss 30A?) Do I shove it in with the aircon connector?

 

Thanks again. Nearly there now...

 

He says hopefully.

 

 

Hi folks,

 

I bought a kit from PF Jones. Westfalia tow bar with a dedicated wiring kit FF29220508PF. My car Skoda superb estate 2014 2.0TDI. . I installed the towbar, routed the electric harness along the car, and stopped there. The problem is that I can't fit the terminals into the fuse box. Do you have to use force to insert them or are they just not right. The terminals go halfway and I still can't push them in, they can be easily removed. 

Thank you kindly for answers.