I bought an 'action cam' that has a dashcam function. It also has a Sony sensor and pretty good picture quality day and night. The only dubious thing about it is the name - Git 2.

 

I also bought a nextbase hardwire kit from maplin.

 

The camera and holder

 

I was going to get a dedicated dashcam but it seemed a bit of a waste. With this I have a fun little toy that can go in its clear plastic case and be taken under water - drive to the airport car park then take the camera with me.

I have a smaller, neater adhesive mount but thought I'd use a suction one for now while setting it up.

 

So on to installation. The glove box stay nearly stumped me before I started. If the manual had shown the keyhole slot it would have been obvious which way to move it to release. As it was the arrows in the picture made me push the wrong way.

 

First thing I did was feed the usb cable through the back of the glovebox

 

Ran the cable in the headlining using a spoon handle to help it in. Then it has to go round the pillar so just kept it as neat as I could.

 

The camera on its suction mount

 

Cable is untidy. need a 90deg adaptor plug

 

Down the bottom having flipped up the edge of the rubber trim to hold/hide the wire it just goes round to under the glove box.

 

I needed an earth from somewhere and there was a torx screw under the lid that felt like it screwed into metal

 

Having looked at other threads on here (Thanks Gizmo) I knew the red 10A fuse was ignition switched. I tested it with the meter and also checked the screw was a good earth. Don't have enough hands to meter and take a picture.

 

Pulled the 10A fuse and plugged it into the piggy back unit that came with the hardwire kit then turned the ignition on - we have power.

 

Had a lot of excess wire so I just cable tied it and propped it in front of what I'm guessing is the pollen filter. It will flip out of the way if need be.

 

I've tested it. With the camera set to dashcam mode it turns on and records when the car starts. It carried on recording using its own battery afterwards. Don't know how long it keeps going but the internal battery is supposed to do over an hour.

Edited 25 March, 201610 yr by RobertP

Did almost exactly the same wiring with mine, a Nextbase 512G.

That earth screw was very thoughtfully placed.......almost made for the job :-)

Great post with great pics but Which 10 amp fuse did you pull I have all the kit but not sure on which fuse to use.

Great post with great pics but Which 10 amp fuse did you pull I have all the kit but not sure on which fuse to use.

 

It's the one in the bottom row in the 9th picture and is the same one I used. It may be numbered 47 and definitely controls the blind spot detection. It's the only practical one that I could find as the rest were either permanent live or I couldn't fit the piggy back plug in as it fouled other fuses.

 

I fastened all the gubbins behind the passenger side dashboard cover (accessible by opening the passenger door fully) and used the bolt in there as a grounding point.  You can see the bolt in the top-left of the picture.  In the top-right is a piece of rubber trim to stop the wire from the fuse box rubbing on the metal edge.

 

I also wrapped the wires with cloth tape to stop rattles.

I think I'd seen your picture before but didn't find it. I looked at the cover but left it alone for fear of breaking something!

 

As said it was the red 10 fuse between the blue 15 and miniature 5 on its side.

 

I'll add some sample video if its not too boring once I actually go somewhere in daylight and night time.

 

just a thought - there is some very lightweight felt stuff stuck to the back of the glovebox. wonder it that is supposed to suppress rattles but is too soft? Mine doesn't rattle but I've seen some complaints here.

Edited 26 March, 201610 yr by RobertP

Hi all

Managed to fit mine is pretty much the same way

Only problem I have is that the piggy back fuse I have does not fit

I have the rear window wiper which is 15amp and position 47 but there are relays either side, so cannot use this without bending fuses.

This is the only non perm powered fuse I know to use as used it in my old superb

There are loads of micro 10 amps fuses that I could use but have no idea which are switched on with the ignition and are not perm live?

I think I have the following options

Option 1 is to find a different type of piggy back fuse that fits, just been googling and they seem all the same unless anyone knows differently? If I could get one that was 2 to 3 mm taller I would be ok I think?

Option 2 would be to get a micro piggy back fuse and attach it one of these, can anyway advise what they have used and which ones are not perm feed. I do not have a multi meter and if I did I doubt I could work it lol

Thanks

Not sure I can help if your layout is different.

 

Mine is an estate and has a rear wiper. The fuse adaptor that came with the nextbase hardwire kit fitted with no problem. There was a micro size adaptor in the kit as well that I obviously haven't used.

The yellow fuse (or maybe a relay) in the bottom left corner has a metal surround and is stamped 'Audi'. The piggyback in my car pushes against that a little but not enough to dislodge it.

 

I planned to use the rear wiper fuse slot but couldn't but I can't quite recall why apart from it definitely fouled on another fuse.

Thanks

I have managed to work it out

Used fuse position 48 (blind spot detection) as this is a live on ignition and not used in my car

Works a treat now and there is space for a standard size piggy back fuse. As its one position further away than fuse 47 (rear wiper)

Comes on and off with the ignition as I wanted

Cheers

Anyone fitted a hard wire kit to a car that isn't specced with BSD or a rear wiper? Otherwise I'll dig the multi meter out.

Thanks

Hi leeboy

I didn't have blind spot detection fitted but the position had power when the ignition was switched on, so not permantley.

This was position 48 and this position gives you the space needed for the piggy back fuse

Will try and do a pic tomorrow

Hope that helps

Ok that's good news, didn't think there would be power to a fuse point if no option fitted!

I also used bsd for the piggy back, just bought a 10A fuse as there won't be one there

Must admit it as more luck than judgement, but it worked so got lucky as was running out of options

Cheers

Just wanted to say thank you so much to RobertP for this great post. I've hardwired my Transcend dashcam today and this post and images was very useful.

Thanks

I have managed to work it out

Used fuse position 48 (blind spot detection) as this is a live on ignition and not used in my car

Works a treat now and there is space for a standard size piggy back fuse. As its one position further away than fuse 47 (rear wiper)

Comes on and off with the ignition as I wanted

Cheers

 

Thanks for the tip!

Edited 20 May, 201610 yr by r08shaw

Ran the cable in the headlining using a spoon handle to help it in. Then it has to go round the pillar so just kept it as neat as I could.

 

 

Down the bottom having flipped up the edge of the rubber trim to hold/hide the wire it just goes round to under the glove box.

 

 Good write up, my OCD would not me leave any visible cables though, fortunately both of these trims simply pull off (the pillar one only needs prising out slightly) so the cables can be tucked away out of sight.

Thanks. It's been a couple of months now. I've never had a dashcam before. So far I've not needed anything it has recorded and obviously hope it stays that way.

 

Yesterday on a 2 lane dual carriageway I was about to move back into the inside lane when a car leisurely pulled out of a lay by in front of me (no indicator) and more importantly in front of the lorry I had just passed. I avoided it easily but the lorry had to emergency stop - all of which I watched in the rear view mirror. Made me wish I had a rear facing camera to record it.

 

clip

 

 

YouTube has knocked the quality a fair bit.

 

 

So I may be looking at another camera fitting before too long.

Edited 21 May, 201610 yr by RobertP

Did you have any trouble getting the suction mount to attach to the shaded area of the windscreen ?

I intended to replace the suction mount with a self adhesive one but in 2 months it hasn't fallen off so for now I've left the suction mount. It is still on the dotted shaded area of the screen and obviously holds fine. It is quite small maybe 1 1/4" diameter.

I intended to replace the suction mount with a self adhesive one but in 2 months it hasn't fallen off so for now I've left the suction mount. It is still on the dotted shaded area of the screen and obviously holds fine. It is quite small maybe 1 1/4" diameter.

Thanks for your reply Robert.

Perfect. Just done today. No more hanging wires at last ! Thanks mate great guide.

Just fitted mine today. I transferred it from my old car in which I just had cables trailing, not particularly tidily, to the switched 12v outlet in the centre console. Now, thanks to the excellent posts in this thread, I fitted it properly in my new car in about 20 minutes, with barely any wires visible, and it goes on and off with the ignition as it should. Cheers guys!

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Edited 28 May, 201610 yr by grebble

Thanks

I have managed to work it out

Used fuse position 48 (blind spot detection) as this is a live on ignition and not used in my car

Works a treat now and there is space for a standard size piggy back fuse. As its one position further away than fuse 47 (rear wiper)

Comes on and off with the ignition as I wanted

Cheers

HI, did you have the picture? I am going to do mine this weekend, just want to double check if everything is same as yours.

Thanks

Just wanted to add some more info to this thread.

 

It seems that the Blind Spot position loses power when Start/Stop turns the engine off.

On my camera, the loss in power triggers the camera to turn off.

 

I need to investigate if power is restored when the engine restarts, my guess is that it does. I've only noticed it a couple of times now when driving as it's not obvious.

The camera takes about 15 seconds to shut down totally so it could be that the power has been restored, but doesn't override the shutdown process.

 

Will post my findings.

R.