Hi. Got some seized nipples on the wife's Fabia.  I need to tackles these with a gas torch due to rust and would like to replace them IF I get them out without snapping.

 

They are: FSIII calipers from a 2001 SDi.

Any one know what size/spec they are and where to get them?

 

Any advice on corroded nipple free-ing? They are pretty bad.

 

Thanks

 

Nic.

PlusGas, followed by a tea break whilst it gets to work.

Item 10 here.  M10x1 thread, VAG part number 357615273.

Six-sided deep socket is probably the best tool to try,  if access allows.

I find it's best to slacken them off when the brake calipers are hot.

 

DB.

they were seized on my 06 1.2 fabia and lots of wd40 along with some heat and they eventually loosened off - definitely make sure you have new ones to fit though as I just started to round mine off on one side as I was re tightening them up (hopefully i wont have to do them again whilst i own the car they will be a pig to get off again)

Actually, maybe combine #2, #3 and #4 in that order?

Tighten them a fraction first to break the lock after soaking them in plus gas.

Wow! Great info. Thanks guys.

 

Seems part number is now a discontinued item in my google searches.

 

Would this item fit? I've no idea of the length of the bleed screw. See this link:

 

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/bleed-nipple-m10-x-1-00-bn-m10

VWheritage have loads of ebay listings for the part number I quoted, e.g. this one. Comparing the pictures of your linked one, it's not completely clear to me that it isn't going to bottom out before it closes, being shorter?

Hmmm...Thanks for the link. I see what you are saying. From what I recall of looking at the nipple a few months back it seems more like the pic in my link, but if you say that this is the part number from the ekta catalogue then it's more likely to fit.... I hate it when things are not so clear cut!

 

It will be impossible to positively identify until (if) I can remove one. Perhaps I'll buy both as they are relatively cheap...

Hmmm...Thanks for the link. I see what you are saying. From what I recall of looking at the nipple a few months back it seems more like the pic in my link, but if you say that this is the part number from the ekta catalogue then it's more likely to fit.... I hate it when things are not so clear cut!

 

It will be impossible to positively identify until (if) I can remove one. Perhaps I'll buy both as they are relatively cheap...

 

Hmmm, they're both the bloody same!

 

M10 x 1, same taper and sufficient length, style and hex size are unimportant as long as it screws in and seals. Metric is metric.

Hmmm, they're both the bloody same!

 

M10 x 1, same taper and sufficient length, style and hex size are unimportant as long as it screws in and seals. Metric is metric.

 

As long as the taper is the same with sufficient length then all's good. However, how do I know how long it should be without a) being too short to seal and b.) too long it might foul something or get knocked?

 

Is there a standard taper for bleed valves?

 

I just want to be sure I have the right one when I do the job. Nothing worse than not being able to complete some works as you have the wrong part then have to wait days without a car until you can get it finished.

Edited 13 September, 20169 yr by Golf-Fiend

NB.  not ISO Metric, but may be found under "10mm spark plug"  should threads need cutting/fettling

Remember to scrub these areas well with wire brush so that the Plusgas etc can creep down the threaded holes. And remember that is something like Plusgas that was mentioned earlier, soaking it with WD40 is for mugs and will stop anything like Plusgas wanting to creep down that now wet area!

I do it this way and it works for me - Scrub it with a wire brush, spray it up with your favourite release spray (WD works, Plusgas works, other stuff works, just more expensive stuff works better), ideally leave it overnight, spray it again, have a brew. Don't even think about pussyfooting about with a spanner - stick the full sized mole grips on them and shock it in the right direction. Throw bleed nipple in bin, fit new one with the tiniest speck of copper grease on the thread (every time).

 

Different pokes for different folks, but that's what works for me. 

 

My brother uses a micro blow torch and a brake spanner, seems to work for him. 

Edited 14 September, 20169 yr by StevesTruck

 (WD works,

 

Standard WD40 is very poor as a penetrant. Even they themselves recognise that fact and produce more appropriate versions.

 

WD for show, Plusgas for a pro...

Works well enough when I use it. I'm not a "pro" though, so I don't need shelves full of shiney things with the right names on. I'm just someone who's been mucking about with old cars, vans and bikes for knocking on 30 years, so I've probably never undone a rusty bolt. 

Edited 14 September, 20169 yr by StevesTruck

Works well enough when I use it. I'm not a "pro" though, so I don't need shelves full of shiney things with the right names on. I'm just someone who's been mucking about with old cars, vans and bikes for knocking on 30 years, so I've probably never undone a rusty bolt. 

Or don't value your time. When I bought PlusGas I'd spent ~4 hours messing about with Water Dispersant 40 without getting the lock nut to move; £8 for the can and 15 minutes penetration later it was like working with a new component!

Works well enough when I use it. I'm not a "pro" though, so I don't need shelves full of shiney things with the right names on. I'm just someone who's been mucking about with old cars, vans and bikes for knocking on 30 years, so I've probably never undone a rusty bolt.

True, give it another 10 years and you will have come up against so rusty ones! There was a guy at work that used to run a Lotus Elan, he used to claim that nothing ever rusted up on it - we all just knew that it was always being taken to bits maybe because it was having problems, so nothing had enough time to rust up! Poor old WD40 is just Castor oil with added smell and a solvent to help it out of the can, at work I used to have a tub of that mixed with Copper grease to protect some jig fixings that frequently went from ambient temperature down to -55C and back up to +85C lots and lots of times - that kept things from seizing/rusting!

Or don't value your time. When I bought PlusGas I'd spent ~4 hours messing about with Water Dispersant 40 without getting the lock nut to move; £8 for the can and 15 minutes penetration later it was like working with a new component!

You spent 4 hours on one nut and you say I don't value my time? If it's that bad, cut it, or split it and renew. It's not like you're going to put it back on if it's that rusted are you?

You spent 4 hours on one nut and you say I don't value my time? If it's that bad, cut it, or split it and renew. It's not like you're going to put it back on if it's that rusted are you?

Adjuster for the clutch cable, and I didn't have a new one, or any way of getting one in less than a week.

Wow! All I asked for was some advice on rusty caliper bleed nipples!!!    

Wow! All I asked for was some advice on rusty caliper bleed nipples!!!    

And, until someone started acting like Water Dispersant 40 is a dismantling lubricant, advice on how to remove seized bleed nipples without mullering the callipers was what you were getting!

Wow! All I asked for was some advice on rusty caliper bleed nipples!!!    

 

Everyone has an opinion when it comes to nipples