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Skoda Owner 3 month update...


TasMan

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Its been 3 months since picking up our 14 plate Tour de France Estate and being new to Skoda I thought I would share my Skoda experience to date.  Hope I don’t bore you with my rambles…..!

 

With a young family who take several long distance trips per year to visit family we were looking for a load lugger and the Superb ticks all the boxes for us.  Skoda wasn’t on our radar originally but reading all the reviews and a visiting the local dealer a few times was enough to make me seriously look for a Superb Estate.  Test drove a couple of Mondeos and Volvos but kept coming back to Skoda as it felt the right option for us.  I also do a bit of towing now and again which takes me off road into fields etc with a trailer so 4x4 was one of the features I wanted.  Having discounted a couple of cars this one turned up at the local Skoda dealer, well maintained, one owner, already fitted with a tow bar and low mileage at 18000.  Even came with all the unused TDF seat covers etc.  Ticked all the boxes and loved the colour so a deal was done against our ageing Focus and I became a Skoda convert.

 

Done about 3000 miles so far, not a huge mileage but enough to know this has been the right choice for us (so far!).  On our first long trip up north last month the boot swallowed everything we threw at it and the legroom in the back is brilliant with the two kids seats fitted.  A roof box is still required (the amount of stuff two young kids require is ridiculous!) but fits nicely on the roof bars with minimal hassle.  Having everything in the boot was luxury compared to the Focus where we had stuff crammed everywhere, so it made for a very relaxed journey.

 

Going from a gutless petrol Focus to the 140 diesel has been great.  I know the 170 would be even more potent, but the 140 does everything we require and I don’t notice any issues when overtaking etc.  4x4 really makes a huge difference pulling away, on B roads etc, gives real confidence when pushing on.  The TDF doesn’t have all the toys and I miss a heated windscreen but you get a lot of car for the money.  Driving feel is excellent and relaxed and comfort is very good.  Hill hold on this model is brilliant, didn’t realise it had it so this will come in very handy for towing.

 

Running costs are pretty good considering the 4x4, I try to have a light foot where possible.  Getting an average of 42MPG roughly 14 p/mile actual fuel cost.  Not too bad.  Been running V Power as Shell is the handiest garage.

 

Now to the niggles…!  Had it at the dealer the other week…

  • Passenger sun visor light was working intermittent – dealer replaced visor under warranty due to faulty switch.

  • Engine rattle at 1000 RPM – Idle is about 800 RPM, at around 1000 RPM there is sometimes a noticeable rattle from the engine area, almost sounds like tappets or something rattling in a metal tin.  Comes and goes but always there, often worse after 15 mile morning commute and engine hot.  Hold it at 1000 and it is rattling away.  Dealer couldn’t fault it despite a road test.  Will be monitoring this one closely and first chance I get will have a look myself under the bonnet.  People talking of the air intake box, heat shields etc on here.  Or is this just a trait of the CR140 engine ?

  • Cabin creaks and squeaks – Noticeable amount of trim noise, in particular glovebox has an annoying creak, seems to be LHS of door rubbing on dash.  Also very annoying creak/rattle from behind driver at head level, possibly the plastic pillar trim.  Dealer couldn’t fault either but as soon as I drove out the garage the noises were there….!  Seems to vary with interior temperature.  I am going to try wiping some silicone spray on the glovebox and any other suspect trim joints to see if that improves matters.

  • Brakes seem below par – Always drive with good distance to front vehicle but a couple of sharp braking manoeuvres and I was wondering if the car would draw up.  Dealer has checked brakes but all ok.  Seems to be a trait of this model from what I read on here, so an upgrade of the brakes may be an option.  I notice the fluid is due a change at this age so may make a difference…?

  • KESSY – whilst I really like the keyless system it is a pest when you have to fumble about for the keys to unlock the back doors.  Also you can’t open the boot with the engine running.  I assume this needs coding but I can live with it.

 

Couple of upgrades/improvements….

  • Started changing the interior lights.  Superskoda boot and door warning LEDs are brilliant, bought on their recent sale. Changed dome lights and have still to do footwells, glovebox, numberplate and puddle lights, these were from Ebay as a kit, hopefully finish doing these soon.

  • Bought OEM boot netting system which have been very handy.

  • Still to fit the OEM child rear view mirror bought from Superskoda.

  • Fitted full set of rubber mats and tunnel cover which are a must, again from Superskoda.

  • After a lengthy saga I ended up with a cheap boot liner from Ebay.  It was too long for the boot, so after receiving a full refund for the item I ended up trimming it to suit at the boot lip and it actually does the job ok.  No need for an expensive liner at the moment.

  • Remap – currently weighing up the pros/cons/risks….!  I did read a re-mapped 140 can be more responsive than a 170 but I wouldn’t like to get something done that could damage the engine.

 

So that’s about the summary of Skoda ownership to date, despite a couple of niggles really loving the car and look forward to driving it every time.  Next service and warranty up in July, probably get it back in to the dealer to look again at the noises and engine rattle if I can’t pinpoint the sources, maybe request a technician actually sits with me and I will point them out.  If anyone can relate to my experience I would be pleased to hear from you ! J

 

Cheers
Dave

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Instead of a re-map - try a chip - you can use it for few days and if you don't like it you can return it. Easy to install and if you buy from DTUK - you can select between higher mpg or more power.

Edited by jafo
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Avoid tuning boxes - they just mess with sensor data to increase output from the fuel pump or turbo. A poor alternative to a good remap from a reputable tuner. When you consider that they cost almost as much as a remap they make very little sense.

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9 hours ago, TasMan said:

Its been 3 months since picking up our 14 plate Tour de France Estate and being new to Skoda I thought I would share my Skoda experience to date.  Hope I don’t bore you with my rambles…..!

 

With a young family who take several long distance trips per year to visit family we were looking for a load lugger and the Superb ticks all the boxes for us.  Skoda wasn’t on our radar originally but reading all the reviews and a visiting the local dealer a few times was enough to make me seriously look for a Superb Estate.  Test drove a couple of Mondeos and Volvos but kept coming back to Skoda as it felt the right option for us.  I also do a bit of towing now and again which takes me off road into fields etc with a trailer so 4x4 was one of the features I wanted.  Having discounted a couple of cars this one turned up at the local Skoda dealer, well maintained, one owner, already fitted with a tow bar and low mileage at 18000.  Even came with all the unused TDF seat covers etc.  Ticked all the boxes and loved the colour so a deal was done against our ageing Focus and I became a Skoda convert.

 

Done about 3000 miles so far, not a huge mileage but enough to know this has been the right choice for us (so far!).  On our first long trip up north last month the boot swallowed everything we threw at it and the legroom in the back is brilliant with the two kids seats fitted.  A roof box is still required (the amount of stuff two young kids require is ridiculous!) but fits nicely on the roof bars with minimal hassle.  Having everything in the boot was luxury compared to the Focus where we had stuff crammed everywhere, so it made for a very relaxed journey.

 

Going from a gutless petrol Focus to the 140 diesel has been great.  I know the 170 would be even more potent, but the 140 does everything we require and I don’t notice any issues when overtaking etc.  4x4 really makes a huge difference pulling away, on B roads etc, gives real confidence when pushing on.  The TDF doesn’t have all the toys and I miss a heated windscreen but you get a lot of car for the money.  Driving feel is excellent and relaxed and comfort is very good.  Hill hold on this model is brilliant, didn’t realise it had it so this will come in very handy for towing.

 

Running costs are pretty good considering the 4x4, I try to have a light foot where possible.  Getting an average of 42MPG roughly 14 p/mile actual fuel cost.  Not too bad.  Been running V Power as Shell is the handiest garage.

 

Now to the niggles…!  Had it at the dealer the other week…

  • Engine rattle at 1000 RPM – Idle is about 800 RPM, at around 1000 RPM there is sometimes a noticeable rattle from the engine area, almost sounds like tappets or something rattling in a metal tin.  Comes and goes but always there, often worse after 15 mile morning commute and engine hot.  Hold it at 1000 and it is rattling away.  Dealer couldn’t fault it despite a road test.  Will be monitoring this one closely and first chance I get will have a look myself under the bonnet.  People talking of the air intake box, heat shields etc on here.  Or is this just a trait of the CR140 engine ?

  • Cabin creaks and squeaks – Noticeable amount of trim noise, in particular glovebox has an annoying creak, seems to be LHS of door rubbing on dash.  Also very annoying creak/rattle from behind driver at head level, possibly the plastic pillar trim.  Dealer couldn’t fault either but as soon as I drove out the garage the noises were there….!  Seems to vary with interior temperature.  I am going to try wiping some silicone spray on the glovebox and any other suspect trim joints to see if that improves matters.

  • Brakes seem below par – Always drive with good distance to front vehicle but a couple of sharp braking manoeuvres and I was wondering if the car would draw up.  Dealer has checked brakes but all ok.  Seems to be a trait of this model from what I read on here, so an upgrade of the brakes may be an option.  I notice the fluid is due a change at this age so may make a difference…?

 

 

Mine is a 2014 Superb - albeit with a much smaller engine :sleepy:

 

  • Clearly no rattle as mine drinks from the other pump
  • I've been OK for rattles but I did have one around the glove box which turned out to be a glasses case stored in the door pocket. Also had a difficult to locate rattle which turned out to be my spare driving glasses stored in the overhead glasses compartment - seemed to throw the rattle noise...
  • My brakes have been - er Superb even fully laden - although I do have a slightly lighter engine. Worth checking the servo vacuum pump? My brake fluid has just been changed at the 3 years checkup and made no difference to the braking.

Still loving the very refined drving experience after nearly two years of ownership (car nearly 3 years old with 40k miles)

 

 

 

 

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16 hours ago, jafo said:

Instead of a re-map - try a chip - you can use it for few days and if you don't like it you can return it. Easy to install and if you buy from DTUK - you can select between higher mpg or more power.

 

16 hours ago, chimaera said:

Avoid tuning boxes - they just mess with sensor data to increase output from the fuel pump or turbo. A poor alternative to a good remap from a reputable tuner. When you consider that they cost almost as much as a remap they make very little sense.

Thanks jafo, I had thought about trying a tuning box but weighing everything up I think I would prefer to have a remap and session on a rolling road to prove the remap and output, as chimaera recommends.  I will look into tuning boxes and remaps a lot more before finally deciding.  The other thing I wonder about is the VAG emissions recall, swayed towards not going for it, and when I asked the other week at the dealer they have had no further updates.  Odd how some folk are reporting getting it done yet other dealers have no further information....   Cheers

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9 hours ago, bigjohn said:

 

 

Mine is a 2014 Superb - albeit with a much smaller engine :sleepy:

 

  • Clearly no rattle as mine drinks from the other pump
  • I've been OK for rattles but I did have one around the glove box which turned out to be a glasses case stored in the door pocket. Also had a difficult to locate rattle which turned out to be my spare driving glasses stored in the overhead glasses compartment - seemed to throw the rattle noise...
  • My brakes have been - er Superb even fully laden - although I do have a slightly lighter engine. Worth checking the servo vacuum pump? My brake fluid has just been changed at the 3 years checkup and made no difference to the braking.

Still loving the very refined drving experience after nearly two years of ownership (car nearly 3 years old with 40k miles)

 

 

 

 

Sounds like your Superb is rattle free...hoping to investigate the noises later this week.  The engine noise comes and goes, difficult to describe but it is quite noticeable just above idle at 1000 RPM, more so when the engine is hot.  Any doubts and I will be back to the dealer.  Still not convinced on my brakes despite the dealer checks, really have to stomp on them to get a good biting response.  Interesting you mention about being fully laden, it was on our recent trip north, fully loaded that I noticed the brakes seemed under par.  Have tried a couple of times on a quiet road braking hard to 'clean' the discs and pads but seem to notice little difference afterwards.  When you brake hard are you getting the wheels locking and ABS coming on ?

Cheers Dave

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With the brakes, as bigjohn suggested I'd have the fluid changed if there's no other record of it having been done. Beyond that, you could ask your dealer to adjust the brake assist function to provide more assistance under heavy braking.

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Try stopping hard from 70 mph to about 30 a couple of times on an empty stretch of motorway. When I bought my car the brakes were disappointing, but a couple of hard stops at speed fixed them. The car had been doing mostly motorway miles before I bought it, so the brakes were a little glazed. The brake assist means that if you hit the pedal suddenly the brakes stop harder than if you push the pedal gently with the same force too, so the default behaviour of the brakes is to stop more gently. Upgrading the brake pads is the other option, but changing brake fluid is the first thing to try before replacing anything else.

 

I have a lot of the same rattles - try pushing the glove compartment door while driving and see if the noise goes away. Padding the lip of the door has silenced this for people. I've yet to hear anyone with a solution to the B pillar rattle though :(. I've got a clunk in the driver's door since the garage replaced the window regulator a couple of years ago too - I suspect they left the bit of wood I was propping the window closed with in the bottom of the door :(. Not annoying enough to justify pulling the door card off again though - I notice it, but other people don't.

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My 140 4 x 4 had terrible brakes when I bought it at 5000 m , new rear pads sorted it , I also had it remapped as it was really sluggish , very disappointed with performance . it's transformed after the remap, leaps into life with a bit of throttle

Edited by peterposh
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Thanks for the input guys.

Chimaera - no record of brake fluid change, 3rd service will be due in July but if I am back at the dealer before I may ask for this to be done ahead of the service.  I am on fixed servicing apparently.  I am expecting the Haldex unit to have an oil change also I am assuming circa 25kmiles...

Psycholist - Will give that a go, nothing to lose in terms of some hard braking.  Fluid will definitely be on the cards, and have also been looking at pad upgrades.  Sounds like my rattles are common to the model, the glovebox I am pretty sure is squeaking on the left hand corner against the dash, as soon as you open the glove box it stops.  Going to try some silicone spray wiped on, furniture polish might even do the trick.  The B pillar rattle only started recently, it is really annoying, seems to be at head level just behind driver, wondering if it is the trim on the pillar where the seat belt height adjustment is, lots of rattle potential there. Pity about the bit of wood being left in, a bit lazy of your garage just to dump it in the door, although to be fair it may have fell in and the mechanic forgot about it.

Peterposh - Thanks for that, have read a couple of folk saying new rear pads make a huge difference, did you buy standard or upgraded pads ?  Will probably get the pads changed along with the brake fluid.  Interesting about your 140 comments, this is my first diesel and my impressions are pretty good, nice and torque compared to the Focus.  I expect the 170 would be much more up to the mark with a 4x4 given the 4x4 will be sapping more of the horses.  I am surprised the Outdoor model wasn't specced up with the 170 engine as standard, and also things like a heated windscreen ....!  Odd how the mirrors are heated but not the windscreen....but I am digressing.  Remap is being considered.

Cheers

 

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How's it odd that the mirrors are heated and windscreen isn't? None of my cars have heated windscreens, yet all have heated side mirrors. I've yet to come across a car made in the last 25 years that doesn't have heated mirrors.

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9 hours ago, TasMan said:

 Interesting you mention about being fully laden, it was on our recent trip north, fully loaded that I noticed the brakes seemed under par.  Have tried a couple of times on a quiet road braking hard to 'clean' the discs and pads but seem to notice little difference afterwards.  When you brake hard are you getting the wheels locking and ABS coming on ?

Cheers Dave

 

Yes, I had to do an emergency stop recently and I felt the ABS chatter through the brakes. As my car is poverty spec it may be missing such things as brake assist. 

 

The one slight problem I had when fully laden (including 4 adults peope, three between 6ft4"-6ft7"  & a stagering amount of luggage!) was having to be careful over speed humps to avoid the rear scraping. My fuel consumption even dropped to as low as 38mpg (usually does about 50mpg on a long run!)

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6 hours ago, TasMan said:

[...] I expect the 170 would be much more up to the mark with a 4x4 given the 4x4 will be sapping more of the horses. [...]

 

Haldex - gearbox responsible for 4x4 - transfers power to the rear only when needed :) most of the time it's just FWD car :)

Only when you accelerate too hard or loose traction it will kick in.

Edited by jafo
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On 28/02/2017 at 18:50, bigjohn said:

 

Yes, I had to do an emergency stop recently and I felt the ABS chatter through the brakes. As my car is poverty spec it may be missing such things as brake assist. 

 

The one slight problem I had when fully laden (including 4 adults peope, three between 6ft4"-6ft7"  & a stagering amount of luggage!) was having to be careful over speed humps to avoid the rear scraping. My fuel consumption even dropped to as low as 38mpg (usually does about 50mpg on a long run!)

Cheers bigjohn, will give the brakes some further testing when safe to do so, and report back.  Everything being said here suggests things not up to scratch.  Not noticed too much of a change in fuel consumption, fully loaded and with a roof box.  Based on fuel receipts from my trip north and recent every day runs maybe 2 - 3 MPG worse off with the roof box etc. 

20 hours ago, jafo said:

 

Haldex - gearbox responsible for 4x4 - transfers power to the rear only when needed :) most of the time it's just FWD car :)

Only when you accelerate too hard or loose traction it will kick in.

The other morning my work car park was iced up, I am always first in so with an empty car park I gave the throttle a prod and all four wheels spun up, confirms the Haldex working....need to have a little fun now and again!  :)

 

Engine rattle noticeable today when cold, and the bl##dy B pillar creak/clicking is getting annoying....day off tomorrow and am planning on a few checks under the bonnet and at the pillar, however just found this thread so I have a few things to check :biggrin: 

 

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hi i also have a 2014 140 tdf estate...overall im very pleased with it..can i ask how much you paid for yours as i would be intrested to see what mine may be worth although mine has a few less miles on than yours.

i have a couple of the issues you have,-the brakes are lacking in stopping power unless you stamp on them...and i also have an awful clunk from the drivers door if i hit a pothole...

also you can program what doors open with the kessey system from the mfd on the dash....

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On 02/03/2017 at 13:03, Dustybin1923 said:

hi i also have a 2014 140 tdf estate...overall im very pleased with it..can i ask how much you paid for yours as i would be intrested to see what mine may be worth although mine has a few less miles on than yours.

i have a couple of the issues you have,-the brakes are lacking in stopping power unless you stamp on them...and i also have an awful clunk from the drivers door if i hit a pothole...

also you can program what doors open with the kessey system from the mfd on the dash....

Thanks for that, not alone with the brakes issue.....!  Pricewise, basically going rate on Autotrader from a main Skoda dealer, minus paltry trade in for my old Focus.  I was happy with the deal as another Skoda dealer had a TDF in Candy White which had over double the mileage of mine, no towbar and not quite in as good nick.  It turned out to be an ex-taxi but was almost a grand more than the one I bought.  Bear in mind what I paid will be a fair bit more than the trade in value.

 

I have sorted the Kessy programming, I must have missed the section in the book about programming Kessy, now opening by 'side' and have switched on Auto Lock.

 

Bit of progress on the rattles today.  Engine rattle seems to be the air box area.  My Dad searched around the engine bay on a cold start while I was holding the throttle at 1000 RPM.  Touching the air intake box the noise immediately stopped.  Lots of posts about that on here so will read up further and then might be back to the dealer.

 

B Pillar rattle seems to actually be the drivers door.  When I push the door I can occasionally replicate the noise.  It is most prominent when driving around 30 - 40mph on rough roads and when you are coming up to roundabouts with the heavy painted rumble strips, clunking every time you go over one.  Tried silicone lube on the door catch but no joy, will try some lithium grease.  Have gone round all door seals with furniture polish as that can cure many a creak, also good when wiped on the metal bars of head rests, makes them glide!  Will see if that makes any difference tomorrow.

 

Silicone spray wiped on the edge of the glovebox and the rubber stops seems to have improved the creaking for the moment...

 

Cheers

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Further update...

Driver door creaking/rattle is getting annoying.  I have sprayed all the latches with white lithium grease but no improvement.  Next to be checked is the join between the door rubber and B pillar trim that only becomes visible with the door open. 

Glovebox area creaking continues, but will now check out the cover on the side of the dash, and the trim line mentioned on another thread where a small piece of foam cured the noise.

Air box rattle still ongoing but will leave that to the dealer to sort out as I can see another dealer visit happening soon...!

Still enjoying the car though....lol!

 

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Hello Tasman

 

Is the rattle from the door metallic in sound?  My previous Superb had a really noticeable metallic clonking when going over bumps, ramps, potholes etc.  3 attempts by the dealer failed to cure the problem - including reseating the door trims, adjusting door and boot latches.  The solution was to wrap a bit of electrical tape around the door catch - the bit on the B pillar.  That sorted the problem.

 

Glen

 

 

Door catch.JPG

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Glen, yes it does sound metallic at times, very difficult to describe.  When on a bumpy bit of road its like a creaking from the top of the door but when driving over heavy painted rumble strips at roundabouts each one gives a noticable clunk.  The lithium grease hasn't worked, and the polish to all the door seals made no difference.  I was going to look at the trim at the B pillar this weekend, and also the top of the door card seems to rub on the door metal which were all contenders.  I did wonder about the latch and thought of what you mention but would be worried about the tape tearing and jamming things up.  Was this ever a problem ?  I am sure my old Focus had a black plastic sheath over the latch come to think of it....  I will update once I look further.  Many thanks....Dave

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I had a metallic rasp / clicking noise in my estate when I picked it up. Stripped the car of anything that would rattle and it was still doing it! I eventually traced it to a metal clip rattling on the drivers side C pillar. It was the plastic trim on the C pillar and the top one had come lose. Obviously had been taken off at some point and didn't quite sit right back in. Took it off; opened the prongs slightly and put it all back. No rattle since. Sounded like it was coming from besides me. 

 

Do you have a sunroof as that does squeak due to the seals. 

 

Do you have DSG? I think the brakes were better on my old manual. Mainly due to occasionally it feels like the DSG is fighting and not bringing in the clutches quick enough. Were has I would have pulled the clutch in manually at that point; they're still out. Drop it into neutral and she pulls up nice and sharp! 

 

Its better since I had the brake fluid done recently (last done touch over 2yrs ago)

 

 

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On ‎18‎/‎03‎/‎2017 at 09:05, Nathanio said:

Do you have a sunroof as that does squeak due to the seals. 

 

Do you have DSG? I think the brakes were better on my old manual.

 

 

No sunroof so that rules out any roof squeaks!  The door noise varies between creak and clunk...!  I am pretty convinced it is the lock bumping against the latch but haven't managed to get some tape on the latch to check.  If I eliminate it with tape than I can report to the dealer to see if they can offer something permanent.

Some progress on the glovebox noise but yet to cure the issue...  I sat in the passenger side with my wife driving, the noise almost stops when you open the glove box.  I happened to give the glovebox door a shake from side to side when open and this replicated the noise!  Repeating this with the car stopped and door open you can actually see the whole side of the dash flexing which includes the removable side panel.  Where the dash fits under the rubber door strip is also moving so I think this is the source.  I am going to source some thin rubber or fabric strip and push this under the rubber door strip which will hopefully sort the squeak.  Once I have done this I will report back....:-)

Noticed another niggle this morning - a couple of pin head sized rust spots on the roof rails....I thought these were aluminium! ?  The rear quarter chrome trims also have a few white blotches.  I am aware of the issue with the discolouration so will mention when next at the dealers.

Engine rattle seems to have settled down for now.....!

 

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Update - Cured the glovebox noise ! :biggrin:

After finding the issue with the whole dash flexing when the glovebox door was opened, I bought some wiring loom tape from Ebay for about £2 to have a go at sorting the issue..

On Saturday I removed the side cover and applied the tape to the relevant surfaces which appears to touch or were likely to touch. The main point of contact is the section of the side cover which fits into the door rubber, this seemed to be where all the creaking was coming from.  In addition I taped the mating surface of the dash, the underside of the dash where the glovebox shuts against, and the surfaces where the rubber stops touch the door.  As belt and braces I sprayed some lithium grease on all the locating pegs/clips.  You can't really see any of the tape when everything is back together so I was pleased with my attempt.

I was rewarded with complete silence early on Sunday morning during an hour journey over a fairly bumpy road.  Normally it would have driven me bananas within a few minutes, particularly when the car was cold when the creaking was at its worse.  So far so good, the silence continues!!  I can't say for sure exactly what part of the tape has cured the problem but if you have the same issue, and repeat what I have done you will hopefully get a similar result.  The loom tape used was Tesa type and has a nice fabric finish.

Hope that was of interest......!

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