Whilst driving home yesterday my Yeti squealed at me at flashed up "Loss of oil pressure, stop immediately" (or words to that effect). I was able to pull over and stop the car in seconds. When I got out engine oil was gushing out the bottom of it, and the underside was covered in oil. There was a puddle of a few litres on the road.

 

It was serviced (main dealer) in March. There was no yellow warning of low oil levels prior to the red loss of pressure alarm.

 

It was successfully recovered (kudos to thew AA) and taken to Skoda main dealer today who have just called to tell me its fixed and ready to collect. They tell me the sump washer was not fitted correctly. The sump plug was correct and at the right torque, however.

 

To be honest, I'm sceptical... I don't see how it could fail so catastrophically and gush so fast if oil was bypassing the washer and plug threads. This was more like there was no plug or a hose had ruptured.

 

Has anyone else heard of similar issues?

 

Thanks

Simon.

 

 

 

Edited 19 April, 20179 yr by Guest
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Lies but now impossible to prove.

Id suggest it wasnt done up and fellout.

Losing oil pressure is catastrophic to engines so how long it now survives is a lottery.

Had the same thing happen to me with my previous car (1.9TDi Fabia) on the first day of ownership.  Dealer gave me a similar load of cobblers as an excuse - bottom line is they forgot to tighten the sump plug during its pre-delivery service.

 

I was a bit concerned about long term damage to the engine, but was fine 4.5 years later when I sold it.  Fortunately, it happened whilst slowing down on a motorway slip road, so engine speed was low and I managed to switch off immediately after seeing the oil pressure light illuminate.

+1 for loose sump plug

 

the washer is actually part of the plug and shouldn't really be replaced without it (you normally pay for the full plug!).

I agree its  they forgot to torque the sump plug i hope they didn't charge you.

I had that once, one of the few times I had not changed the oil myself,

they did come clean, the sump plug was replaced but not tightened then

overlooked when the original fitter was taken to another job.

Luckily the plug came out on their forecourt (a Talbot Alpine)

Given the reported location of the leak, that can only be a failure to correctly torque the new sump plug.

I had a dealer fail to replace or tighten some safety critical bolts - they never 'fessed up to it even though I had photographic evidence.

a lot to be said for using those oil suction kits

@peterposh like "leaving 0.5l of 10_000 miles old oil in the sump" you mean?

12 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

@peterposh like "leaving 0.5l of 10_000 miles old oil in the sump" you mean?

I've used one for the last 150 000 miles of oil changes with zero problems. 

The container has a measuring scale on it , I suck out the manufacturers recommended amount and replace with same amount. It's not like the old days with sludge in the sump of your austin cambridge

The engine you must drain through the sump but take the oil filter off first is PSA 1.6 HDI engine especially the one's with DPF at least every year or 10'000 mile your asking for big trouble with sludge and failed turbo's .

Well, I got the Yeti back yesterday evening and so far it seems just fine. Drives as before with no engine noise. Looks like all is well now. 

Yeah, agreed. Cover up job. Sump plug not tightened at last service/inspection.

I know most of us will get dealers/garages to do oil changes, but I am not averse to changing the oil myself if I need to. 

So here's MY DIY routine. It applies to most vehicles. 

The reason I'll share it, is because I almost wrecked my own Nissan engine a few years ago, and it's easy to do! TOO EASY..... Believe!! 

 

Get the car jacked up and supported with axle stands or on ramps with the handbrake on,  rear wheels chocked and engine in gear,  ready to do the job. Now... The important bit. Put your keys well away from the car. In the house, in the garage, in a box.... Anywhere but don't leave them in the ignition.

Now... Write... "NO OIL" on a bit of cardboard and cable tie it to your steering wheel. 

 

Do your oil/filter change, and clear up under the car. Double Check that you have tightened the filter and said sump plug using a new washer. Never use an old washer.  Refill the engine with lovely clean oil. Put the filler cap back. 

Now, you can remove the sign, get your keys and either lower your car or reverse it off the ramps. 

 

What I did....... Was tightened the sump plug, found the filler plug awkward to get to, to put the new oil in, so started it up to reverse it off the ramps and get it on level ground.......with NO OIL IN. 

I realised, almost instantly..... Please learn from my stupid error. 

I was a commercial diver years ago. You ALWAYS take the keys off the boat owner before working underwater. Same thing.... If somebody starts the engines up while you're working near the props, it can quickly be fatal. That's where I got the idea from. We used to leave a BIG sign in the wheelhouse.. DO NOT START ENGINES. DIVERS BELOW. 

If the plug was torqued up correctly and the washer was not fitted correctly (I don't know how that could be!) it would have been leaking at a constant rate since being fitted.
It's not possible for it to suddenly "let go" and dump it all out.

It's a pity there is so much plastic hiding the engine otherwise you may have seen the missing plug at the time of it dumping the oil out.

I know years ago when I did a bit of track racing on my Triumph Bonneville, as part of the track regulations, you had to drill a ⅛" hole through one of the corners of your sump plug, and wire it to the frame. Saved dumping oil  all over the track if the plug vibrated loose. Don't know if it's still a requirement..... Times have moved on. 

1 hour ago, FurryFriend said:

I know years ago when I did a bit of track racing on my Triumph Bonneville, as part of the track regulations, you had to drill a ⅛" hole through one of the corners of your sump plug, and wire it to the frame. Saved dumping oil  all over the track if the plug vibrated loose. Don't know if it's still a requirement..... Times have moved on. 

 

But in the problem above the garage said the plug was at the correct torque, I would go so far as to say they are liars,

If it was torqued up correctly it would not vibrate loose like your vibrating and not so well engineered motorcycles could and sometimes did.

I agree absolutely, and have actually already said that imho, it can't possibly have been properly tightened, so that's down to the garage. But I doubt they would admit to it.

However, I also think that being loose, even going over a few manhole covers, potholes speed bumps and all the other daily road obstacles we all have to drive over, the vibration could easily have helped to shake it out. Nothing to do with older engineering. In fact I'm reliably informed that wiring sump plugs IS still mandatory for racing with the most highly engineered engines. 

I also had a thought. 

Has the Yeti got an under engine tray to protect the underside of the engine from damage and dirt?

If so, it's not unknown for the sump plug to be rolling around in it. Maybe worth a look..... And THAT would be almost undeniable by your garage. 

36 minutes ago, FurryFriend said:

I also had a thought. 

Has the Yeti got an under engine tray to protect the underside of the engine from damage and dirt?

If so, it's not unknown for the sump plug to be rolling around in it. Maybe worth a look..... And THAT would be almost undeniable by your garage. 

 

 

Hello.

 

Mine does indeed have the off-road kit which probably explains why I have not seen any dripping prior to the failure. I checked the driveway this morning and there was no sign of a leak and it drove ok to work. Hopefully, this is the end of it, although the garage did offer to check the plug torque again in a few hundred miles time; just to be sure.

 

Does one need to remove the tray to change the oil? If yes, then chances are a loose plug would have been discovered and conveniently 'lost'. I am hoping they did take all the underbody protection off to fully wash off the engine oil to avoid it messing my drive in the future.

Simon

Hi Simon

Not sure if the tray has to come off, as I'm still new to the Yeti, but on the vast majority of cars I've owned  and worked on, yes it needs to be removed.

 

I have about 30 tools and sockets all found in these trays....(including a Snap On torque wrench. I also have a 13mm spanner with a mechanics initials engraved into it....  Seems that garages don't retrieve a lot of them due to time pressures!  

Anyway.... Glad you didn't lose your engine over it. You've been lucky. Safe and enjoyable driving. 

 

Keith. 

 

Yes the under-tray has to come off to drain the oil.

Can you not bore a hole in the under tray 20  / 30 mm or make a small hatch with a cove you take off when needed so you can see the sump plug check it or drain the oil save removing the under tray .