Front strut replacement tools

[bmbmdmb]

Before buying some tools to replace the front strut (MacPherson) on a fabia vrs, I have read that I will need these tools:

Spring compressors. 

Hub spline 14mm , have this but size not checked.

Top mount nut accessed from under bonnet 21mm socket and 7mm Allen key - checked sizes myself.

 

My question - does a swan spanner actually fit. The nut is quite deeply recessed. I could buy a 21mm just for this job. All images of products show that there is no particularly deep swan spanners. 

 

Other option is a 21mm socket with the side cut out, like used to remove oxygen sensors. Again the nut is quite deep in the top mount. Allen key might be obstructed. 

Laser 6496 Strut Nut Socket, Set of 5

 

Final option is  a go through socket set, or Vortex as they are known. Halfords have a set for £80

 

Anyone actually done this job on this car before I splash out on new tools? Advice please.

 

Also, I ve read a strut nut tool , laser 3396, might be helpful to loosen hub holding lower part of shock of the strut, once spline is loosened off. I can't find any images of this being used, but it looks like a substitute to a hammer and chisel to separate the hub from behind the shock. Hard to access etc.

 

Finally, there is mention of making the job of dropping out the strut easier by removing the nut on the tie rod or ball joint on the lower suspension arm. Apologizes if this is wrong term. It is connected to the steering. See image. The part , rod, on the bottom middle.

 

Tool needed is a ball joint separator tool like a pitch fork or less destructive tool in like this ball joint separator.

 

What size is needed, or better to buy the set of 3?

 

I watched the Autodoc guide on u tube, but the nearest car was an octavia.  The front strut then just popped out easily. Is this necessary?

There is even mention of removing driveshaft on the drivers side! I know the drop needs removing, forward of strut.

Edited 23 March, 2018 by bmbmdmb
Extra photo ball joint tool position

[rum4mo]

Always good to spend all your money on new tools - for the future!

 

Strut top nut, I was lucky first time and had a spark plug deep socket that had a hex pattern on the top, and with that you can either use a long allen key or a long hex bit.  Second time round I used a Vortex drive through socket, very handy tool kit to have.

 

Hub carrier splitting tool, again first strut I messed about with various small chisels and got it off, every other strut I've taken apart I've used the Laser Tools tool for that job, much easier.

 

One thing that you have not mentioned was that you might need to remove the drive shaft on the RHS as there is not enough room to press the hub/TCA down low enough to release the strut before it bottoms out - so you need to be able to move the hub around and that means disconnecting either its lower swivel on the hub carrier or at the TCA.

[Breezy_Pete]

1 hour ago, bmbmdmb said:

I watched the Autodoc guide on u tube, but the nearest car was an octavia

 

Try this one, for 9N Polo (nearside ONLY), it should show you everything you need. As rum says, the offside one isn't as easy.

 

 

Getting the top nut undone can be tricky, especially if it's been there since the car was built. (21mm) Spark plug sockets can be a handy way to do the job, as they tend to have a hex on the outside that you can get a spanner on, whilst leaving the square drive hole free to get a 7mm tool through for the counter-holding (example here, if you don't already have such a thing).  Big force will be required, use a sturdy vice to hold things if available (or (just) loosen it while still on the car, prior to undoing the three top-mount bolts). 

 

Hub splitter tool is well worth investing in, for the price they are.

 

Edited 23 March, 2018 by Wino
example spark plug tool link added

[bmbmdmb]

Thanks Rum & Wino, useful info there.

I have a spark plug socket, but at £80 I think I might get a Halfords Vortex go through  kit, I can get more torque on it. Also Ill get the laser strut hub tool.

With the lower swivel / track control arm/ also called 'wishbone' or 'A frame'? So many terms out there. Are these the bolts I need to loosen ? See image please.

Image is front left side looking forward behind wheel hub etc. CV joint is to top right of image just out if frame. Does this contain the ball joint, middle left of image? Is it worth replacing at 75k?

[Breezy_Pete]

Yeah, either the three M8's (which should be replaced when removed) or the 19mm nut that holds the joint to the bearing carrier. Popping the joint out of there after the nut is off may/may not be straightforward though due to access. Ball joint only needs replacing if the boot is torn really.

 

Spend £80 or use something you already have? You must be a lot richer than me!

[bmbmdmb]

14 minutes ago, Wino said:

Spend £80 or use something you already have? You must be a lot richer than me!

Ah, I just love tools Wino :-D . But the finances are going to take a hit whilst looking for new work, after refusing to teach kids on unqualified teacher pay in a well known secondary school academy chain here in Yorkshire.

But that's a story for TES Education.

Thanks for the useful info.

[sepulchrave]

1 hour ago, bmbmdmb said:

Ah, I just love tools Wino :-D . But the finances are going to take a hit whilst looking for new work, after refusing to teach kids on unqualified teacher pay in a well known secondary school academy chain here in Yorkshire.

But that's a story for TES Education.

Thanks for the useful info.

 

I don't blame you, the b4st4rds, you'd be better off doing agency work. Never undercharge for something you're good at.

Edited 23 March, 2018 by sepulchrave
Playground automoderation.

[rum4mo]

Wife was a teacher all her working life except when breeding, when she went back "supply" teaching was okayish, now it is completely terrible deals, and the education leaders why they can't get anyone interested in supply work to cover for all these teachers completely fed up with life in the classroom.  Oldest daughter followed her mother into teaching, when she needed a change as her large school staffroom was completely filled with negative vibs, she did an exchange to Perth Oz, which was entirely a different job, though Oz people on the whole tend to be very positive anyway, when that ended and she could not stay on, she returned to her old job as teachers were running out the door so quickly, then taught in a "British" independent school in KL for 3 years - which was as enjoyable to do as teaching in Oz, now she is back in UK deliberately got herself a position in a challenging school that has a strong management team, now gritting her teeth and hoping for better things to happen soon, while trying to avoid being physically abused by some kids that should really be in a special school, but society likes to "include" them and allow other pupils to get physically abused and lots of teaching time wasted. Maybe humans should get vetted for suitability for producing and "breaking in" kids before they are allowed to breed?

[bmbmdmb]

Thanks for the support.

I will PM you both, doing loft boarding at mo. Do not want to wreck the car thread.

 

 

 

 

[cheshire_cat]

as far as the hub "spreader" tool I used a piece of 10mm allen key hex ground to a screw driver point and a 10mm socket -- ground the right way it can be slipped in and "cammed"  to hold open,   if the chisel doesn't work (not a lot of room)    I can't remember exactly but the spring compressors need to work the right way  because of clearance   my cheapy Machine mart's were no good  but heave duty one which pulled the "otherway" were fine 

[TMB]

A 21mm spark plug socket works brilliantly for the strut damper top nut because you can use a spanner on the flats of the socket and insert an allen key down the middle to hold the rod.

 

Slightly loosen the nut while the strut is still on the car as it makes it easier once the strut is off.

 

EDIT: Just noticed someone else said the same thing.

Edited 23 March, 2018 by TMB

[bmbmdmb]

 

21 hours ago, cheshire_cat said:

I can't remember exactly but the spring compressors need to work the right way  because of clearance   my cheapy Machine mart's were no good  but heavy duty one which pulled the "otherway" were fine 

 

Do you have a picture of the heavy duty ones you used? I have some £30 ones (set of 3).  I suspect the ends will just protrude up into the top of the wheel arm before sufficient compression has occurred. Mine are identical to those in the image below. If this is the case, I can't see what good mine are as 'spring compressors'?

20 hours ago, TMB said:

A 21mm spark plug socket works brilliantly for the strut damper top nut because you can use a spanner on the flats of the socket and insert an allen key down the middle to hold the rod.

On reflection, I can't think of another use of go through / Vortex sockets. Unless I was going to do this job on a routine basis I think a spark plug socket with a spanner is an excellent idea. I'll try this first. Thanks.

 

 

[cheshire_cat]

just checked, mine are threaded at the OTHER end to the hex heads  the ones AT the heads being "freewheeling"  suspiciously look yours (from the pic)   I guess they could be reversed with the aid of a pair of lock nuts if they are normal (ie; not ACME thread)  

[cheshire_cat]

for what it's worth my Machine mart (Clarke) ones are 5/8x11tpi UNC thread

[retro]

This is how I did mine, I didn't have all the necessary tools so had to improvise.

 

Jack car up

 

Remove wheel

 

Remove TRE nut, hit hub with a hammer to pop it out, one precise hit is all it should need.

 

I then removed the bottom ball joint from the wishbone leaving it in the hub.

 

Undid the nut on the strut securing bolt, it stayed still so I could slacker it off but I had to grip the bolt head woth mole grips as it started to spin.

Unhooked the ABS wire from the strut.

 

Removed the drop link from the strut, I used a hex key and crank spanner as it span.

 

Put spring compressor on the spring and tighten to compress the spring.

Undid three top mount bolts.

 

Pulled it up, had to tickle the hub down with a hammer as the strut was stuck in well and truly. Ideally you would have removed the driveshaft nut and removed it from the hub but I didn't have a big enough socket so I wiggled the strut around until I got it out. 

[rum4mo]

On ‎24‎/‎03‎/‎2018 at 14:52, bmbmdmb said:

 

On reflection, I can't think of another use of go through / Vortex sockets. Unless I was going to do this job on a routine basis I think a spark plug socket with a spanner is an excellent idea. I'll try this first. Thanks.

 

 

 

Oh!  I did find a second use for my Vortex socket set but I can't remember what/why, and then I needed to change the front springs on a late 2009 SEAT Ibiza, so, if you hang on it there and stick with Fabia/Polo/Ibiza, when you have moved on to the current models for repair, that Votex drive through socket set will again come in handy as the top mounting design has changed and you need a deeper reach socket, which, when you add in the drive through extension, makes the Vortex socket the ideal tool for that job - Vortex plug over!

[bmbmdmb]

Thanks.

Local motorstore I get 30% off, has a 21mm spark plug as Wino mentioned. £3

If that does not work the go through ratchet is the way to go.

Car affected has not repeated the noise or bad behaviour since wife drove it. I'm holding off this job at moment. The only thing untoward it uneven wear across tirefront left tyre . I got the car steering aligned using Kwik fit Hunter laser 4 wheel system 1 and half years ago. Car was drifting to left. Could be from this , or this later issue. It took 3 attempts by Kwik fit to get it right. Apparently the car reg told the Hunter system that my car was a fabia 2. I only noticed on 3rd attempt due to TV screen showing this in another center.

[Clarke2744]

On 23/03/2018 at 18:04, TMB said:

A 21mm spark plug socket works brilliantly for the strut damper top nut because you can use a spanner on the flats of the socket and insert an allen key down the middle to hold the rod.

 

Slightly loosen the nut while the strut is still on the car as it makes it easier once the strut is off.

 

EDIT: Just noticed someone else said the same thing.

 

Do the front dampers on have a hole for an Allen key down the centre?? Are they not the same as the rears which have a flat face on each side which make it a ball ache and a half to remove 

[rum4mo]

Yes the front dampers do, nothing like the ends of the rear ones!

[Clarke2744]

Thank god!

[rum4mo]

20 hours ago, Clarke2744 said:

Thank god!

 

Oh, so you did not like the challenge of using an adjustable spanner of what is almost two flat areas, can't blame you for that!

[Clarke2744]

Do you know what - I did try that.

[bmbmdmb]

View from engine bay of top mount 21mm socket with 7mm Allen key. Laser sell a brake caliper 7mm key that is larger than the DIY sets. Also the common DIY sets don't have 7mm size.