I'm preparing to do the complete DSG oil change on my car (obtained the genuine oil, adapter & hose, gaskets) but now, as I saw last time when I was under the engine, that the oil pan is corroded (see image), I'm thinking to do that as well in the process, to avoid having to do the oil change two times. Any tips regarding it (I know I have to replace its seal as a precaution, since the mechatronic module is underneath), can the pan be removed easily without having to dismantle half the car (it is a 3.6 FSI, so I don't have that much room to maneuver either from above or below the car)? Should I replace anything else that would be related?

 

It seems this will turn out like the short boot situation where "if you want to get something done, you'll have to do it yourself" ... ... anyways, I've ordered all the required parts, will replace the pictured oil pan as well as the oil pump cover (on the right side of the gearbox from this position, or, it is looking towards the front left wheel). The parts should arrive tomorrow, and if everything received is as it should be, and the weather on Saturday/Sunday nice, I'll try to complete the gearbox oil change, and a small gearbox overhaul at that (hopefully extending its life for at least 50.000 km without any extra maintenance to it).

Hi Vborovic - I'd be interested to see how this turns out for you.

 

That rust looks superficial (external finish just chipped and then the enamel/paint simply comes away...) but what you are doing seems spot on.

 

I looked through Youtube etc. (as you probably have...) and this certainly seems the correct way forward. Good luck with it.

 

Dave

Looks like a new subject for the forum.

Could help others in the future, do you have the part numbers that you ordered?

3 hours ago, superbdreams said:

do you have the part numbers that you ordered

 

Oil pan seal - 02E321371E

Oil pan cover - 02E325201D

2x o-ring seal (for the oil pan mechatronic connector) - WHT001403

Oil pump cover - 02E315141C

 

optional (I've ordered them since I don't want to risk not being able to reuse the current bolts which are also very rusty)

5x (on the oil pan cover) bolts - N 91032702

6x (on the oil pump cover) bolts - N 10451405

A few thoughts while I sort the photos and decide what needs to be shown here (I'm guessing you all know how to to the regular "just the oil" replacement, so I won't go over that) ...

 

Referencing the previous post and part numbers - if you order the oil pan cover, you don't need to order the oil pan seal, because the seal is mounted to the pan (a bundle actually) ... so I now have a spare part extra, hopefully will be able to replace it at the dealer's for something else (or maybe even get money back) ... it seems my oil filter cover/seal, that is on the top of the gearbox was leaking, don't ask me how and why, it was a real mess once I removed the air filter box (and it is not that much oil coming from the engine valve seal that will be the next job ...

 

There is a benefit to having a 3.6 FSI in this case - I didn't have to remove the battery or disconnect it (although I wouldn't recommend this to others, I risk what I'm doing to save time) ... for your viewing pleasure (and making it easier for me to measure - random rhyme there, not intended), I've bought a white plastic basin (and it turned out 5,5 liters of oil did go out from the drain plug + oil pan cover + oil pump cover.

 

The bolts (both types) are new catalogue parts, and they made them shorter, probably to reduce manufacturing costs (like the extra 3-4 mm would make them go broke or something).

 

The recommended tools for the dsg oil seal and dsg oil filler tube are Allen key wrenches (that L shaped all metal tool) ... don't go for bits, because any tool will fight its urge to fall into the container holding the used oil below the drain ... the Allen key wrench is the simplest to recover, wipe and you're all set to go (14 mm for the seal, 8 mm for the plastic tube).

 

Don't wait too long when the oil temperature reaches 35 °C, you'll have to go under the car, remove the adapter and put the seal plug in place ... in my case, I found it odd that the oil that was dripping on my wrists was somewhat hot, when I completed the work under the engine, I checked the VCDS - 49° C was the reported gearbox temperature.

 

This procedure is not that complex, but you need to spend at least 6 hours in and around the car (it might be easier if you have a workshop car elevator, much easier to do this when the car is fully above you, but then you have a problem with the drainage, unless you have one of those telescopic funnels at hand - in which case you're already a car repair man, and you don't need any tips from here.

 

More specific details will follow with the commentary for each photo.

assume you had found this?

 

Before we proceed, a piece of advice: if your DSG driven car is near 10 years old, or has covered many miles than the average, I'd highly recommend replacing both the covers on your next regular oil change. Why? If any of those will leak, you of course won't get any indication of the problem, and will risk the gearbox mechanically failing. The new covers with new bolts are approx. 90 GBP, which in my case is very close to a month's fuel expense. The other important thing to know is that you can't replace any of those two covers without completely draining the oil from the gearbox, so you're saving yourself time and money by doing this procedure in one go. And you can inspect the elements behind them, potentially spotting any issues that at this point aren't a major issue (if you know what you're looking at/for). The oil pan covers the mechantronic part of the gearbox and serves as a coolant/lubrication, while the oil pump cover covers the pump (who knew, right). When the covers are off, avoid doing anything unnecessary, to avoid oil/gearbox contamination (by clearing any debris that could fall off from the top off the engine or pillars onto/into the exposed gearbox openings (and remember, you don't have that much space to move around, be extremely careful with the removing of the old parts and reinstalling the new ones to avoid breaking/hitting something in the gearbox) - take your time and don't rush anything, if in doubt, just remember that the used DSG gearbox is around 3000-4000 GBP ...

 

Let's start: assuming you've already drained the oil from the gearbox (I've left it drain for one hour before proceeding, and event after that time an occasional drop of old oil would fall from the gearbox, so always have something below it (an adequately-sized container preferably, don't waste time with mops or other pieces of old cloth), the first thing I did was replace the oil pump cover. Mine was in good condition, well, at least much better that the forward facing oil pan cover (seen in the opening post). In my case, the upper right torx screw was loose, you could unscrew it with your fingers (it didn't appear that someone did some works previously on this part). Even though you've drained "all" the oil from the gearbox, prepare for some extra oil waiting for you behind the covers - on the oil pump cover, the clockwise tilt will let you know in advance that you can expect the oil to drip on the middle and right screws after unscrewing them (as can be seen on the photo). I've used the big basin that was already under the car holding the old oil, and pulled it under the cover's locations.

 

 

 

What you'll see behind the oil pump cover is the oil pump, and I'd recommend wiping the lower right part, near the screw, for extra oil, to avoid dripping on you until you reinstall the new cover. The covers have the seals on the inner side built-in, so you don't have to worry about that. The new screws (show in the plastic bag)  are slightly longer and with a different head than the previous, factory-mounted ones (this is a trivia fact, unless something goes wrong, then you'll start asking questions towards Skoda why they didn't keep the old ones). You can of course re-use the old screws, but I just decided to do it by the book while I'm at it. New cover on, tighten the screws and you're ready to move on to the oil pan cover (following post).

 

 

 

 

25 minutes ago, superbdreams said:

assume you had found this?

 

I did, but no offense, I have access to the official service procedures and the video I've found most helpful regarding the oil change is this one (it being simple and straightforward):

 

 

The oil pump cover was a walk in the park job compared to the oil pan cover, the latter being not that accessible and there is very little room to maneuver (no matter if the car is on the jacks or on the elevator), but I'd recommend the jacks because you need to be able to have access to the engine bay from both the top and bottom. Like I've mentioned before the new oil pan cover already comes with a seal, so there is no need to order it separately. On the following photo you'll see the round connector in the center that needs to be disconnected (the little handle needs to be turned towards the left, it is a self-locking mechanism - one that pulls the connector close with the rotation, you'll need to apply force to it, because it is probably stuck as the years went on - but don't break it). As you can see on the surroundings, there is a lot of debris, which should be cleaned thoroughly before doing anything on the gearbox openings.

 

 

 

If you have big hands, everything will be that much difficult for you. Remove the two nuts holding the cable on the middle of the pan and when you unfasten the lower screws, you'll get an oily welcome (have that basin prepared underneath it, it will drain from the center part if the car is level as it should be). When you manage to remove the cover (make sure to bring the old seal down together with the cover - I've had them separated so you can see which is which), what will emerge underneath is the mechatronic module, don't waste too much time looking at it, put the new cover over it as soon as possible.

 

 

 

 

It is recommended to replace the two seals on the round connector. You actually need 5 torx screws, I've followed the catalogue and ordered six, but the sixth one came in handy, as I've damaged one screw new while trying to tighten it and my had came loose, damaging the torx head, but luckily, I've managed to remove it from the cover and use the remaining one. The new screws have a different head and are shorter. Now, you could say that someone actually swapped the two pan's screws (because this is what it appears like), but following the genuine part numbers and locations, this is what it leads to, doesn't appear to be wrong (like they initially made the mistake and corrected it later in the manufacturing process).

 

 

 

 

 

The new oil filling suggestion will follow.

 

Here's a few shots old/new & before/after regarding the dsg oil replacement. The main reason I did this entire procedure was because I didn't know when the last gearbox oil change was completed, and I wanted to do this properly (all genuine parts). I've also taken a photo of the dsg fluid pipe (my part no is 02E 321 363 C). I've marked the liters on the white plastic basin for easier reference later.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Regarding the new oil filling: there are several methods, gadgets and adapters available - what I've ordered seems to me like the best approach (if you use the genuine 1 liter fluid container, maybe some others as well, as long as the thread on the cap is the same). I've ordered a filler hose that is very cheap, but the connections are made of metal with quality seals (price approx. 13 GBP with shipping). The filling is simple - when you connect the 1 liter container, you first squeeze the most content you can in the hose, then you use a scalpel/small knife and cut a small hole on the bottom of the container to allow air in, and you're all set to do this 5 more times (the last, sixth container, needs to be half emptied - 5,5 liters of dsg oil are required in total). This setup - before the bottom cutting to enable air - allows for mistakes, because you can drop the container accidentally, and needn't worry about the spills (other methods like the fill funnel on the end might prove to be more messy than you'd want).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Excellent and valuable write up with photos - thank you so much for posting 

 

Dave

I miss the photos 😥, anybody saved them?

On 25/11/2019 at 22:03, Enterprise said:

I miss the photos 😥, anybody saved them?

 

Which photos do you need? I just did another DSG oil change today, so I have fresh photos available. If you need the oil pans, I'll have to dig around my photo archive ... BTW, good decision on my side to do the oil change after "just" 40.000 km, the DSG filter almost disintegrated ... don't ask me how, was shocked to see how it looked like after taking the filter housing off ... 😲

To " @vborovic " - It is very good to change the "DSG"-Oil on every 40.000 Kilometers. 60.000 Kilometers interval is not OK..