That was one of the first jobs I did when I got it new, at the time I was working at Aston Martin in Gaydon, so I did a lot of motorway driving, all it takes is a rouge stone and bang goes the A/C. Had to leave one slat open for the bonnet handle.

 

Cost mainly, you work it out how many they make in a year, it all adds to the cost of the car, when I was at Astons, the ASM V8 Vantage had a quick disconnect connection on the gearbox, this was changed to a connection like the brake flexi, all cos the QD fitting was expensive.

 

I will hold you to that drink

 

Trev

@Aston_Bodger partial success, got the pipe and sensor changed, and did it myself

Bit fiddly but saved £140 in labour. 

Took around 2 hours and didn't take the bumper off.

Got a recharge booked in 2 weeks using  a Groupon for £34. 

The pressure shows 0 now, instead of 30+, looks good so far. The only fault I'm getting now is lower limit not reached, which means a recharge doesn't it?

 

 

@GizmoThor8303 Well done you!!, it looks a big job, but when you get into it and work what needs to come off I bet it's not that bad, did you get the pipe off the condenser from underneath?, pressure looks good to what I would expect to see now.

 

That's not a bad time to do a pipe like that, did you put some silicone grease on the switch?, so it don't weld it's self to the pipe again?

 

Sounds like it's the fault code is correct for no gas in system.

 

 

Trev

@Aston_Bodger to say I was dreading it is an under statement. But as soon as I got going it was obviously not as bad as all that.. 

Having  to drive to Germany soon so I really hope everything is from now on

@GizmoThor8303 most jobs look worse than what they are, I did my rear shocks the other day, working outside no garage or cover, started about 7.30am, done by 9.45am, sun just starting to come out, the worst thing was I had to go though the spring to get the bottom bolt, the manual says take the spring out???, why??, fronts next.

 

Good luck with the drive to Germany.

 

Trev

12 hours ago, Aston_Bodger said:

@GizmoThor8303 most jobs look worse than what they are, I did my rear shocks the other day, working outside no garage or cover, started about 7.30am, done by 9.45am, sun just starting to come out, the worst thing was I had to go though the spring to get the bottom bolt, the manual says take the spring out???, why??, fronts next.

 

Good luck with the drive to Germany.

 

Trev

 

 

Cheers,

 

It's probably how they make day to day drivers take their cars in to a garage.

 

Off topic, hope nobody minds... I've been trying on the fabia section to get some answers, however no joy. My wndows work very sporadically, mostly not though. Could this be down to the motor? Iv'e checked the door slam there was a frayed brown wire, but I cant find where it goes and all other functions work on the driver's side. I am trying to find another motor but I cannot find one ANYWHERE, apart from skoda who want £180 for the pleasure. Will a VW part work? The part number i've got is 6Y1959801a. Now there is one on ebay 6Y1959801. minus the "a" there are also a few that have "Q" but they mean nothing to me

@GizmoThor8303 That's the reason I became a mechanic in the first place.

 

Not sure what the difference is, as I have had very little experience with fabia's, usually brown is earth as on VW's, and if you do find one will probably need to be coded depending on what it come off trim level wise.

 

 

Trev

On 21/05/2018 at 17:15, m0ezp said:

p.s. I'm over the moon with the garage. They got mine done much before expected so I've now got a cold car after new compressor fitted!

 

Working Air-Con data

I took some more data from the Climatronic HVAC onboard diagnostics to show what a fixed air-con looks like on a hot day with engine fully warmed up and car stationary. Figures in brackets are comparative before the compressor was fixed...

 

Various temps:-

04-0 Temp External = 23.5 C  (20.0)

01-1 Temp External CANBUS = 31.5 C  (25.0)

08-0 Right side actual temp screen = 6.6 C  (35.6)

08-1 Footwell = 15 C  (35.5)

08-2 Vents = 6.6 C  (35.6)

 

Evaporator:-

10-0 Evaporator temp = 5.3 C (34C)

10-1 Liquid refrigerant pressure = 12.0 bar (4.0<7.6)

Evaporator is now chilly rather than basking in the sun and liquid pressure should be up at the 11-12 mark

 

AC Compressor:-

11-0 Power set-point mA = 69.5 (82.0)

11-1 Power actual mA = 70.0 (82.0)

11-2 Power max mA = 82.0 (82.0)

11-3 Compressor PWM = 68.5 (92)

11-6 Compressor code = 00 (00)

Presuming the internal clutch in the compressor had crumbled or the solenoid valve had stuck, the compressor was eating all the power that it could get before at 82mA so actual power equaling set-point probably means too much friction in the compressor and time to get a new one. The PWM down at 68.5 presumably means that the HVAC is happier to modulate the compressor at a lower rate as its now getting better data back.

 

A pity that the Compressor codes from HVAC and VCDS were zero and that didn't help diagnosis. Thanks Trev for the tips that made sense of it all

 

David

 

Hi , just a quick question . I have the same problem with mine and the small fan isn't running. Once you changed your compressor did your fan start working again ? 

 

Yes, once fixed the small fan was working normally again.

It could be the control unit at the front, I think it's behind the big fan as you look down on it, if you have  or know someone with VDCS, it can be tested, I did mine when the compressor packed up.

 

 

Trev

4 hours ago, m0ezp said:

Yes, once fixed the small fan was working normally again.

Ok great thank you 

2 hours ago, Aston_Bodger said:

It could be the control unit at the front, I think it's behind the big fan as you look down on it, if you have  or know someone with VDCS, it can be tested, I did mine when the compressor packed up.

 

 

Trev

If it is just the compressor valve that is knackered , would that also affect the fan ? @Aston_bodger 

Edited 14 July, 20187 yr by Ljk2008

@Ljk2008 When my valve packed up, that's the first thing I noticed, the fans not working, even though the signal was being sent to the valve, as far as the HVAC ECU knows the A/C is working but I knew different, shut off codes were fine 00 for working (see other pages in this tread for more).

 

Hope that answers your question?, any more ask away, I don't bite

 

 

Trev AKA Aston bodger

When A/C is switched on, fan speed is controlled according to the refrigerant pressure. If the compressor isn't providing any compression, the pressure will not trigger the fans.

So I've checked climatronic details for the compressor on 11.6 and it has the code 17 . Can anyone explain what could be wrong . It's saying the measured temperature downstream of the evaporator is below -5°.  Could this also be something to do with the pressure valve or switch . 

Sorry if I seem to be asking so many questions , I'm just trying to understand the problems before I take it to a garage and don't want to be spending lots more than I need to . Your info is very much appreciated Thank you 

Edited 14 July, 20187 yr by Ljk2008

Evaporator temperature sensor mis-reading?

3 minutes ago, Wino said:

Evaporator temperature sensor mis-reading?

I'm unsure if it is misreading.  Is there other codes to diagnose this ?

@Aston_Bodger

 

My aircon has now been recharged and im happy to say the air is so cold that it is freezing my nips. I'm over the moon!!

 

Happy to help anyone else that has the issue that I did

Not sure, but if it isn't too bad to access it might be a cheap fix.

16 minutes ago, Ljk2008 said:

So I've checked climatronic details for the compressor on 11.6 and it has the code 17 . Can anyone explain what could be wrong . It's saying the measured temperature downstream of the evaporator is below -5°.  Could this also be something to do with the pressure valve or switch . 

Sorry if I seem to be asking so many questions , I'm just trying to understand the problems before I take it to a garage and don't want to be spending lots more than I need to . Your info is very much appreciated Thank you 

Code 17 is to do with implausible pressure readings isn't it?

31 minutes ago, Wino said:

Code 17 is to do with implausible pressure readings isn't it?

I'm a bit confused to be honest . Going off what I've read and the readings I have got from the climatronic diagnosis for the compressor .11-6 compressor code 17 .  Im seeing two different things , unless I'm just missing something . Il try and add what I've seen.  To be honest I hope it's the first one .  Can anyone clear this up for me 

Edited 14 July, 20187 yr by Ljk2008

use the one posted by Trev, never steered me wrong. 

If you do change the High Pressure Sensor, be careful mine was seized in place resulting in the pipe shearing and having to replace the whole pipe, but if that does happen, it is not the end of the world. It looks a nasty job but it isn't. 

In your position I would swap the sensor out, both codes lean towards that sensor, it is pretty flimsy.

I think I got one from eBay for £20 HELLA branded. I'll dig out some part numbers if you need them.

 

 

It does sound like the pressure switch  has had it, hence why the shut off code, change that clear the code, not sure if it stores it, and you should be good to go.

 

@GizmoThor8303 Glad to be of assistance, and you got your A/C working again, just in time for the thunder storms!!!

 

 

Trev

Just to throw my experience in the pot...

 

Condenser was shot so had system flushed, new condenser fitted and regassed.

 

All set except it took about 15 minutes to blow cold despite getting a clean bill of health.

 

Next day I opened bonnet and turned Aircon on hoping to feel cold pipes and see fans turning, nothing again for 10 minutes.

 

Strange thing is within a minute of closing the bonnet it blew cold and upon reopening the bonnet the fans were spinning.

 

Today I drove 5 miles in 26°C and had to pull over to see why the Aircon was blowing warm. Once more opening and closing the bonnet got it blowing cold within a minute... See a trend here!

 

The auto electrician found no error codes.

 

I'm thinking disconnecting the battery for an hour may be just what the brain needs, like cold booting a computer.

4 hours ago, GizmoThor8303 said:

use the one posted by Trev, never steered me wrong. 

If you do change the High Pressure Sensor, be careful mine was seized in place resulting in the pipe shearing and having to replace the whole pipe, but if that does happen, it is not the end of the world. It looks a nasty job but it isn't. 

In your position I would swap the sensor out, both codes lean towards that sensor, it is pretty flimsy.

I think I got one from eBay for £20 HELLA branded. I'll dig out some part numbers if you need them.

 

 

Thanks guys going to go with the high pressure sensor and see what happens . Il it you know the out come soon . Cheers for all the info .