Not sure of the size, got mine from helfrauds in a set of 6, as I needed to get the steering wheel off when I fitted cruise control.

 

 

Trev

Brilliant advice in this thread, going to try and attempt a fix for my aircon now armed with all this. 

On the HEX-CAN VCDS topic, there is a company in ireland http://www.logicautomotive.ie/product/vcds-hex-v2-unlimited/

Im not related to the company in case anyone asks, I was going to buy one from here is all, but went with obdeleven instead.

@Aston_Bodger Ok, hopefully i'm not hijacking this thread, but I've just done the test, and it shows a shutoff code of 00. HOWEVER...Kwik-Fit evacuated the system after the compressor refused to "kick in" so surely I should have code 03? No pressure?

Edited 21 June, 20187 yr by GizmoThor8303

How many milliamps is the compressor drawing?

Hi.

 

not too sure to be honest. 

I think its 0.010? This was with engine on. Temp on low and full speed.

cheers.

Edited 21 June, 20187 yr by GizmoThor8303
Screenshot

Looks an interesting screenshot - what app are you using?

 

I'm no expert, I did my code checking using the HVAC onboard facilities which are okay but you've probably got easier access with the app. To do it the slow way:-  have engine running - press screen blower and ECO simultaneously, then use left hand temp control to select the HVAC register group and the blower control to select the register within the group. The codes are displayed above the right hand temp control.

 

The compressor is only drawing 10mA (max is 82mA) so my guess is that this is fine if the HVAC has turned off the compressor. I presume the 002 is your compressor status code, which as I understand it means the HVAC has turned the compressor off because of an issue with the blower motor circuit.

 

I think that the HVAC registers in group 12 are about the blower...

 

12. Climate Control Fan 

12 – 0 Fan Setpoint Voltage V

12 – 1 Manual regulation

12 – 2 Code anomaly

12 – 3 Reduction impeller V

12 – 4 Impeller offset 0.1V

 

 

Hope that helps. I'm away for a week later on but I'm sure someone else will help :-)

 

David

The app is obdeleven. A massively cheaper alternative to VCDS. Only used it once but so far so good.

 

I've tried the hvac buttons. On the compressor section I'm getting code 0. Which I take to mean no problem.

 

I had a code 0229 on the fault scan which is low pressure. But kwik fit said the compressor wasn't kicking in, so they evacuated it again.

 

Am I right in thinking then that HVAC is turning it off for another reason other than the compressor?

Edited 21 June, 20187 yr by GizmoThor8303

Yes VCDS is a mortgage job to buy!

 

I took mine to Helfrauds - I don't think that sort of garage are able to do any real diagnostics. I had to get an auto electrician although he just confirmed where the forum thoughts.

 

Its interesting that you're not seeing any compressor rpm. As your compressor isn't kicking in (according to KW) and it's not showing an error code suggests to me that the HVAC is turning everything off for some reason. 

 

Not sure that helps much!

 

Ha, Thanks. 

 

I'll keep digging, am I right in thinking that the compressor IS kicking in by that readout?

The compressor should be drawing 50-70mA if its actively cooling normally. Mine was drawing about the same as the max (82mA) when it was broken. Yours drawing 10mA sounds like the HVAC doesn't want the compressor to do any work. You've not got a compressor error code so my guess is that the HVAC thinks the system is cool enough but isn't aware there's a problem.

 

I'd have a look at what actual temperatures its picking up; perhaps a sensor thinks you're in the arctic already?  Also two items in HVAC group 10 registers might be helpful...

10-0 Evaporator temp - If the system was running normally this should be below 10C

10-1 Liquid refrigerant pressure - if the system was running normally this should be something like 8 to 12 bar I'd say.

 

Good luck!

 

Cheers. 

At work at the moment, but I do remember a pressure showing 37?

Sounds to me as your compressor is goosed, mine was the same, shut off code 00, somewhere in this thread I put all the shut off codes.

 

Now if you have 00, the HVAC ECU is still sending the signal to the N280 valve on the compressor, but this is the thing they stick and there is nothing you can do to get it working (I tried hitting it!!!!), I will bet my house its the N280 valve on the compressor that has bit the dust, depending what compressor you have you can get the system de gassed and buy a valve and change it (it's only held in with a circlip), and have the system re gassed and all good.

 

If how ever you are unlucky like me and had to change the compressor, the maker of the compressor recommends changing the drier pack too, but skoda don't do the plastic nut version now, so you have to change the condenser too ( whole front end has to come off), its easy job, just take your time took me 3 hours and I'm a tech. So it can be done.

 

Any questions give me a shout,

 

Trev

9 hours ago, GizmoThor8303 said:

@Aston_Bodger Ok, hopefully i'm not hijacking this thread, but I've just done the test, and it shows a shutoff code of 00. HOWEVER...Kwik-Fit evacuated the system after the compressor refused to "kick in" so surely I should have code 03? No pressure?

No you are most certainly not hijacking this thread, if you want to know something you are not sure of please ask, I don't mind one bit.

 

Trev

Edited 21 June, 20187 yr by Aston_Bodger
spelling

2 hours ago, Aston_Bodger said:

Sounds to me as your compressor is goosed, mine was the same, shut off code 00, somewhere in this thread I put all the shut off codes.

 

Now if you have 00, the HVAC ECU is still sending the signal to the N280 valve on the compressor, but this is the thing they stick and there is nothing you can do to get it working (I tried hitting it!!!!), I will bet my house its the N280 valve on the compressor that has bit the dust, depending what compressor you have you can get the system de gassed and buy a valve and change it (it's only held in with a circlip), and have the system re gassed and all good.

 

If how ever you are unlucky like me and had to change the compressor, the maker of the compressor recommends changing the drier pack too, but skoda don't do the plastic nut version now, so you have to change the condenser too ( whole front end has to come off), its easy job, just take your time took me 3 hours and I'm a tech. So it can be done.

 

Any questions give me a shout,

 

Trev

Thanks. Is there a way of identifying the solenoid so that I don't change the whole thing unnecessarily? 

The N280 Valve is the one on the back of the compressor where the wire connects.

Cheers.

 

I'll have a look tomorrow. Is there a part number for the compressors that have the replaceable solenoid that I can buy as second hand?

Had mine pressure tested today. Leaking around the white plastic alen nut at the top of the condensor. Assume this cant be resealed and will mean a whole new condensor.

18 hours ago, m0ezp said:

The compressor should be drawing 50-70mA if its actively cooling normally. Mine was drawing about the same as the max (82mA) when it was broken. Yours drawing 10mA sounds like the HVAC doesn't want the compressor to do any work. You've not got a compressor error code so my guess is that the HVAC thinks the system is cool enough but isn't aware there's a problem.

 

I'd have a look at what actual temperatures its picking up; perhaps a sensor thinks you're in the arctic already?  Also two items in HVAC group 10 registers might be helpful...

10-0 Evaporator temp - If the system was running normally this should be below 10C

10-1 Liquid refrigerant pressure - if the system was running normally this should be something like 8 to 12 bar I'd say.

 

Good luck!

 

@m0ezp @Aston_Bodger

Takeit then that these are way off. The reason the 10.1 figure pressure is blur is Because it was going mad, jumping between 32 and 37.

 

the coolant temp was 17 when I opened the car and has shot to 20.6

To be honest, I have never used the in built system, I use VDCS not the V2 the HEX+CAN that does me for now.

 

When mine went the pressures were stable and didn't move, so I knew something was amiss.

 

I think the ones with replaceable N280 valves are the Nippon Denso ones, mine was a Valeo, so I had no chance.

 

 

Trev

19 hours ago, etskoda said:

Had mine pressure tested today. Leaking around the white plastic alen nut at the top of the condensor. Assume this cant be resealed and will mean a whole new condensor.

That's quite a common fault, and you cannot get the bits now, I tried.

 

Best thing to do is to go to Euro car parts that's where I had mine from and the compressor.

 

Trev

3 hours ago, Aston_Bodger said:

To be honest, I have never used the in built system, I use VDCS not the V2 the HEX+CAN that does me for now.

 

When mine went the pressures were stable and didn't move, so I knew something was amiss.

 

I think the ones with replaceable N280 valves are the Nippon Denso ones, mine was a Valeo, so I had no chance.

 

 

Trev

 

Oh right. Is 30+ too high though? Meaning its naffed? If it I'll dive in and replace compressor, condenser and drier pack then.

On that would there be an appetite for a guide, which could possibly be a sticky? Haven't seen one floating . 

It may be getting wrong info from the pressure sensor, it's got a bunch of electronics in, so its not like a normal one.

 

May be worth finding someone with VDCS just to confirm the pressure, as I said I don't use the "onboard" system.

 

 

Trev

12 hours ago, Aston_Bodger said:

It may be getting wrong info from the pressure sensor, it's got a bunch of electronics in, so its not like a normal one.

 

May be worth finding someone with VDCS just to confirm the pressure, as I said I don't use the "onboard" system.

 

 

Trev

 

Right, by scanning it and not on board diagnosis I'm getting 37 bar, I'm going to change the high pressure sensor first and see where that takes me, the system is empty so shouldn't be anywhere near 37bar. Correct?

Edited 23 June, 20187 yr by GizmoThor8303

If the system is empty as you say, then it should be a big fat 0000 Bar, something is amiss there, change the pressure switch and go from there, that's what I would do.

 

37 Bar with nothing in sounds a bit funny to me too.

 

 

Trev

Does anyone know the part number for the plug that goes on the pressure switch on a 2007 bkd engine? I can find the sensor number but not the 3 pin plug.