10 hours ago, m0ezp said:

That looks normal once it’s finished recalibration or at least what I was getting. 

 

So I do that and then wait?

whats the process?

The self test should only take about 30 secs but it doesn’t tell you much at all. Mine sometimes ended with what you showed and sometimes with i0 on the display. I’d have a look at the data to see if there are any codes - press ECON+FaceVent buttons athe same time then go thro the data using the Left side temp control knob and Fan speed knob. 

 

ps. When my compressor was broke there wasn’t much variation in pressure between 4 and 6ish but the new compressor has pressures up to 12ish depending how hard there aircon has to work.

Edited 27 May, 20188 yr by m0ezp
Post script

14 hours ago, Little_Grey said:

 

So I do that and then wait?

whats the process?

Hi Mate,

 

What's up with it?, all that does is reset the flaps.

 

Trev

On 27/05/2018 at 10:40, Aston_Bodger said:

Hi Mate,

 

What's up with it?, all that does is reset the flaps.

 

Trev

Might be I miss understood. I though that was the way you got the fault code readouts.

 

Will be ordering a vcds cable come payday anyway.

 

But looks like I'll also need a new aircon rad.

 

Boooooo

It is a way of getting readouts, but as I have VDCS anyway, I don't bother with it, its much easier to use VDCS, and you can reset the flaps on their own, even gives the range too.

 

I see your getting VDCS?, just be careful with it, if you have not used it before, I have had mine over 10 years now and still learning!!!!, and I'm a tech.

 

Don't know if you can still get the HEX+CAN anymore, I most likely be the V2 cable, then your limited to 3 cars I think, or go the whole hog and get the unlimited cable, mega bucks for that one.

 

So, looks like your condenser has had it?,  you can DIY takes about 3-4 hours, as all the front end has to come off.

 

Trev

Yea, I haven't seen any more die.

I just hope it's not the cabin side fault.

any ideas on how to have a look see at that?

 

Vdcs I have played with at work.

Used it to help working back CAN information for an after market ECU on a golf gti.

 

I expect the 3 vin version will do for now. If work or mates wants to use it they can pay for the upgrade.

Part of the reason for joining the forum. Just to make sure I don't brake anything.

 

 

If its dash side the whole thing has to come out, mine was a 2 day job, could have done it in a day, but my mate was helping "hindering" more like

 

Dash cover is not too bad, I changed the whole thing from a single zone to dual zone, had to rewire the multiplugs for the HVAC ECU, that was not hard to do, hardest thing was the stupid 10mm nut that holds the loom to the unit on the passenger corner, that was the only nut that never made it back on the car.

 

I see you're in Leamington spa?, I'm in MK, so not far.

 

You might be lucky and get hold of a HEX+CAN VDCS?, if they are still about?.

 

Trev

Finally got the display to show me the aircon details.

I was pressing face blower and econ rather than window and econ.

Sorry Little_Grey, think I introduced that red herring!

parts are in! just need to find a time to fit them now.

That's good, if you need me you know where to find me.

 

Trev

aye, apreciate the offer / safety blanket.

 

if you have a photo og where the bumper mounting screws are that should speed me up no end

I'm sorry but I did not take photos, wanted it done quick as I needed the car in about 4 hours, hope this helps.

 

There are a row at the front X3 when you open the bonnet, then there is 1 each side near the front of the front wheels, they don't need to come off, then there is 3X plastic rivet things underneath, take the middle out and pull the rest, 4X plastic rivets under headlights, then there is 2X bolts under the grilles near the towing eye and opposite side, take all them out and disconnect the fog lights and the bumper is off.

 

Then take the crash structure off, tie up the rad, cos you need to take the slam panel off after disconnecting the bonnet cable at the joint.

 

The condenser can be a pig, you have to waggle it DO NOT USE ANYTHING SHARP like a screwdriver to separate, you need a flat surface otherwise it wont seal properly despite seals on pipes.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Trev

Evening all.

Thought I'd jump in on this thread as I'm having AC problems and have been for a year or so. After a lot of online reading I seem to be going round in circles. I naturally assumed that when the AC originally stopped working it needed re- gassing. I had this done last year and all was well for a few weeks but then the temp didn't get as cold as it had. Only paid £20 for the re-gas so wasn't too bothered. From that I assumed there was a leak somewhere, but when I do the onboard diagnostic I get a couple of strange readings.

10.1 seems to be wrong - i cant believe the system would still be intact at that pressure!

And most of the 11 series seem strange.

I assume the 11.6 fault code is why there is no power. I did check fuse 40 but there wasn't one in the car, i put one in but the readings are the same - should there be a fuse 40 as the car is Climatronic and fuse 22 runs that system?

 

Is this likely to be a sensor issue or is it needle in a hay stack time?  Thanks for any help you can give.

 

Evaporator:

10 – 0     Evaporator Temperature     °C 19.0
10 – 1     Liquid refigerant pressure     bar 51.0  - this is not a typo!
10 – 2     Liquid refigerant temperature     °C 19.0

 

AC Compressor:

11 – 0     Power setpoint     mA 000
11 – 1     Power actual     mA 005
11 – 2     Power maximum     mA 000
11 – 3     Compressor PWM     Digital (0-200)  00.0
11 – 4     Power offset compressor     025
11 – 5     Power value     Digital 796
11 – 6     Compressor code 17

6 minutes ago, etskoda said:

Evening all.

Thought I'd jump in on this thread as I'm having AC problems and have been for a year or so. After a lot of online reading I seem to be going round in circles. I naturally assumed that when the AC originally stopped working it needed re- gassing. I had this done last year and all was well for a few weeks but then the temp didn't get as cold as it had. Only paid £20 for the re-gas so wasn't too bothered. From that I assumed there was a leak somewhere, but when I do the onboard diagnostic I get a couple of strange readings.

10.1 seems to be wrong - i cant believe the system would still be intact at that pressure!

And most of the 11 series seem strange.

I assume the 11.6 fault code is why there is no power. I did check fuse 40 but there wasn't one in the car, i put one in but the readings are the same - should there be a fuse 40 as the car is Climatronic and fuse 22 runs that system?

 

Is this likely to be a sensor issue or is it needle in a hay stack time?  Thanks for any help you can give.

 

Evaporator:

10 – 0     Evaporator Temperature     °C 19.0
10 – 1     Liquid refigerant pressure     bar 51.0  - this is not a typo!
10 – 2     Liquid refigerant temperature     °C 19.0

 

AC Compressor:

11 – 0     Power setpoint     mA 000
11 – 1     Power actual     mA 005
11 – 2     Power maximum     mA 000
11 – 3     Compressor PWM     Digital (0-200)  00.0
11 – 4     Power offset compressor     025
11 – 5     Power value     Digital 796
11 – 6     Compressor code 17

 

You've the same car as I have. I didn't find a fuse 40 either but that red herring keeps you distracted awhile!

Yes, you're right 51 bar and you need protective gear! Not sure where it gets that figure from but Code 17 = Compressor off (no signal or implausible signal from High Pressure Sensor -G65-).  The HVAC has shut everything down and you can see that in it sending no compressor modulation signal at 11-3 and the compressor is only drawing 5mA.

 

I don't know if 10-1 is the cause - the sensor has failed and that's causing the HVAC to stop everything. Interesting that last year's regas didn't last so I'd guess you have lost gas anyway. I'd think that someone with VCDS might be able to get a little further with diagnosis.

 

 

 

 

Well for the sake of £15ish i might as well change the sensor to eliminate the problem. Ill see if my local garage can put their ac gauges on it just to confirm its not a 51 bar and if its empty again get them to run some dye through it.

It sounds to me the pressure sensor has gone west, its a bunch of electronics, so looks likely it gone, its easy to change if you have a 17mm crow foot and a long extension, there is a shrader? valve under it and you should not vent gas.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

Trev 

10 hours ago, Aston_Bodger said:

It sounds to me the pressure sensor has gone west,

 

would have been my thought too.

 

i work with ECUs day to day and sensors will often travel to thier min or max value on failure.

never sure if this is deliberate but for us it means we never run an engine lean.

 

point i am getting at, if it is safe to disconnect the sensor assuming you are not going to shoot it off into space i'd be doing that first.

 

have you got a manual pressure checker? like that i posted earlier in the thread?
you could use one to ensure it isnt at the massive pressure first. then if it is go to the garage and get someone with the right gear to do it.

or indeed, unplug the sensor from the wiring side and see if it changes

off on a tangent for now, found a very good octavia 2 ac removal with some good tips.

 

Not a bad guide that, well found.

 

I don't have any pressure equipment, I just went off the HVAC ECU with VDCS, but 51 Bar seems a little high to me!!!, you wont be fired into space if you take it out as it has a valve on it to keep the pressure in.

 

At 51 Bar  I would have though you would have blew a hose at that, they are not rated for that sort of pressure only about 15 bar tops or something like that.

 

Trev

changed the sensor and am now back to a healthy 000bar (exactly where i thought it would be!) and a 03 fault code.

I'll get it pressure tested and see if the leak is easily fixable and get a recharge.

That's good you got it sorted, pressure wise, I would say if you have a leak, it will be the condenser somewhere, stones will take it out, I have mesh up my slats just to make sure.

 

Trev

Attempted this tonight. Defeated by the spline bolts on the crash assembly.

 

Try againsoon

Anyone know the spline bolt size?

Just so I get the correct set?