4 hours ago, MicMac said:

Just to throw my experience in the pot...

 

Condenser was shot so had system flushed, new condenser fitted and regassed.

 

All set except it took about 15 minutes to blow cold despite getting a clean bill of health.

 

Next day I opened bonnet and turned Aircon on hoping to feel cold pipes and see fans turning, nothing again for 10 minutes.

 

Strange thing is within a minute of closing the bonnet it blew cold and upon reopening the bonnet the fans were spinning.

 

Today I drove 5 miles in 26°C and had to pull over to see why the Aircon was blowing warm. Once more opening and closing the bonnet got it blowing cold within a minute... See a trend here!

 

The auto electrician found no error codes.

 

I'm thinking disconnecting the battery for an hour may be just what the brain needs, like cold booting a computer.

You don't normally have the system flushed for a condenser, only if the compressor breaks up inside and metal shards go thought the system, I doubt it's the bonnet switch I could be wrong, but my fans work with the bonnet closed or open that's how I knew they were not working when my N280 valve packed up, and it was blowing hot, as it was a hot day I noticed.

 

If you disconnect the bonnet switch your wipers might not work, I don't know not tried it, but if the bonnet is up they don't work it's a safety feature to stop the wipers hitting the edge of the bonnet, also resets the oil light if it comes on, as if you have put oil in, or something like that, if you don't put oil in it will come on again 100 miles time.

 

You need to find out the shut off code if any, it could be the N280 valve being a bit lazy?, and on the way out, if the shut off code is 00, like said in another post, as far as the HVAC ECU is concerned its working fine, my code was 00, and clearly it was not working at all, nada, zip, bugger all cold air from it.

 

Anything else give me a shout, hope this helps someway?,

 

Trev

Might be that the radiator fan(s) are 'tired' and the act of slamming the bonnet shut is enough to jar them into action?

Next time it's not working and you open the bonnet to investigate, try giving the radiator fan(s) a prod with a rapidly-withdrawing fingertip, see if this prompts rotation/spool up.

Thanks guys been there done that re agitating the fans by hand, they don't turn on hard whenever I've seen them operate, kind of soft start.

 

I have maxidot and I'd know if the bonnet was open and the wipers wouldn't operate.

 

Bit of an odd one, too late to disconnect the battery and reset the system so to speak as the alarm will upset the neighbours, tomorrow.

 

It's just like the switching when the bonnet opens and closes is toggling a parameter which has got scrambled.

 

It's not like it even tries to blow cold before and I even close the bonnet gently, certainly the potholes around here would give things more of a jolt.

 

Engine speed makes no difference as I've ragged it in an attempt to get the system working, no joy.

 

Now that I think about it, it's only when I open the bonnet with the engine running that it works.  I can feel the aluminium pipework go from ambient temp to cold in seconds and the fans begin to turn.

 

If I start the engine with the bonnet already open it doesn't work until I close the bonnet... Weird.

 

I'll see if the auto electrician has any ideas.

Disconnected the battery for an hour today and it made little difference.

 

Still not blowing cold from a cold engine, cycling the ignition gets it blowing cold immediately.

Do you have access to VCDS or similar? I personally used Obdeleven, which gives you the shutoff codes and their meaning. 

Could the bonnet issue be a red herring and it simply needs a recharge? 

Best bet is to find the shutoff code first.

@MicMac Did you get this problem sorted out?

 

Trev

No, I'm hopeful a kindly user or auto elechicken will plug in and see if there are any clues.

 

Sometimes it can go miles and no amount of button pressing will get it to blow cold, sometimes simply opening and closing the bonnet to see if the fans are running and pipework cold works, other times cycling the ignition gets it going.

 

In any case it cycles between what seems ambient and cool, never steady cool.

 

If I sound a bit vague it's because I've tested the temps under different settings and get varied results.

 

It may interest readers to know the heater is never what you'd call hot on max either, just mildly warm which isn't good in winter.

 

Having just had a new condenser and the thumbs up from the Aircon guy I was hoping to at least keep my cool.

 

This is by far the most expensive to run, uncomfortable and problematic car I have ever driven.

 

Money's too tight to mention so I've just got to stay with the devil I know for now.

What system is it?, Climatic ie single zone or Climatronic? ie dual zone.

 

Cos I swapped mine from single to dual 4 years ago now and never had any problems apart from the compressor dying on me but that was nothing really to shout about.

 

I'm wondering if it's the controller gone west?, I have both units here.

 

Trev

It's a 2006 dual zone climatronic.

 

https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-opera-mini-android&channel=new&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=WypaW66zMYqL0gKS2aaYAg&q=skoda+dual+zone+Aircon+nipple&oq=skoda+dual+zone+Aircon+nipple&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-img.3...16646.19542..20398...1.0...686.2560.2-1j5j0j1......0....1.........30i10.mkiIjq16Rdk#imgrc=6HYiW4Yq1LyZuM:

Sounds like to me the HVAC ECU has gone, or got confused if that's possible?

lets hope the sparky has VDCS and know how to use it?, shame your not closer I would gladly take a look for you.

I may have a spare HVAC ECU, it one without seat heating.

Let me know how you get on with the sparky please.

 

Trev

Thanks Trev, it could be a while before I get it looked at but I will post the results for all to benefit.

 

BTW it's a climatronic with heated seats, never had the same results as in the photo though!

If only the gear for dealing with the Aircon was cheap it'd be a DIY job...

 

Check their website for more details.

 

I searched for SANDEN PXE16 PXE14 solenoid (there are other types) and prices start at a tenner so the gas handling is the wallet robber not the part (if it is actually the problem, cheaper than a whole compressor replacement at any rate).

 

Shop around and shop wisely for parts and labour.

 

I'll post details if/when I need to go down this road and my results, no doubt it'll be winter then!

 

Edited 27 July, 20187 yr by MicMac

I'm sure a Brisky member with VDCS will be cheaper than an auto sparky?, have a look on the VDCS owners map, in the VDCS section, it's a start, I normally charge a drink for my work.

 

Trev

I seem to be hijacking this thread.

 

Anyway this may help some diagnose their problem:

 

 

More knowledge:

 

 

Dragging up an old thread, but it is a good one!

 

2 years ago I had a pressure sensor fault, so got it replaced and the garage reported that it initially seemed to leak and then held its pressure so they were able to recharge it and I picked it up working.

Only lasted a few days, and when I checked again the pressure was low, so I tried topping it up and using superseal, but ran out of gas before it was working properly and then didn't have time to touch it again for ages and it went to the bottom of my list, and covid meant I wasn't really using the car last summer.

 

Obviously with the hot weather I wanted to get it working again so got a can of gas and to my surprise needed very little before the pressure came up good (both on the dial on the filling adapter, and in VCDS). But no cold air. I was flicking through the measuring values for ages trying to spot what was wrong. Thanks to this thread I am now pretty sure it is going to be the N280 valve, since pressure is OK, compressor is running etc. and the only thing wrong is that the current is around 80.5-82, which it seems corresponds to a stuck valve. Then the light bulb moment, I put bloody superseal in it 2 years ago, I wonder why the valve could be stuck?  No warning about that on the can, says only suitable for belt driven not electric driven compressors, but fails to mention belt driven compressors controlled by a solenoid valve rather than a clutch... I mean, it could be something else, but seems highly unlikely after reading the 8 pages of this thread.

 

Now to see if my normal garage (not the one who looked at it 2 years ago) can change the valve for me, or compressor if necessary. I bet they are flat out.

@Jim-octavia

 

Hi Jim,

 

Glad it's come in useful again even after all this time,

 

Yeah it's a good read, some very useful stuff too, my A/C is still working too, needs a service though now.

 

If I can help you give me a shout.

 

Aston_Bodger AKA Trev