3 hours ago, Chicane-UK said:

Acquired my 2015 L&K Superb 2.0 TDI on Friday 2nd Feb and a little dismayed to have already encountered a few technical issues despite it being a two owner car with full Skoda history. Naturally no such issues presented themselves on the test drive and I believe the seller when he said it was in perfect running order.

 

First problem manifested within a few days which is a warning about the directional headlight system not working (has the adaptive xenons) .. from reading around and scanning codes, my HOPE is it's just the control module on the headlight unit itself and I plan to swap them around and see if the fault follows it and then look to buy a replacement / second hand unit.

 

Secondly on a long drive yesterday had numerous faults light up on the dash at the same time about ABS failure, tyre pressure, and errors relating to stability control.. a scan points to a faulty rear wheel speed sensor.. they're cheap'ish enough so I've ordered one to swap over on the drive in the next few days.

 

The only other interesting one seems to be that stop/start isn't activated somehow.. doesn't really seem to show any warnings for it, but just doesn't work. I don't particularly care for stop start but it's meant to have it so would be good to try and fix it though I expect that may be a bit more involved...

Battery. The first sign of a failing battery is the Stop/Start stops working. Might have something to do with the other faults as well. 

 

I agree with Colin; knackered battery on the stop/start problem. 
And the issues you had with the Christmas tree lights on the dash sound identical to the rear wheel sensor issue I had. Can I ask; was this a private or trade sale? You have redress if the latter. 

I also had both of those symptoms with my old car, new battery cured the stop/start and a new N/S rear wheel sensor also cured the christmas tree lights on the instrument cluster.

I agree with previous diagnoses above.

Another possibility could be that S&S has been deactivated via VCDS, if the battery is OK. 😁

Cheers folks.. in terms of where I bought the car it was a private sale but honestly I believe the seller was honest about the car and it's just a case of bad timing / luck.. really none of the issues seem that severe on the surface so happy to sort them.

 

In terms of the battery.. I was contemplating buying a proper battery tester due to having a small stack of Amazon vouchers so may be useful.. I don't have access to VCDS so no easy way for me to check if stop start has been disabled...I do have Carly which was very useful on my E61 so will read up whether that is able to pull coding information for the stop start system. 

On 06/02/2024 at 10:56, Gammyleg said:

I believe that by removing the silica bag or replacing the expansion bottle with a NON mit silkat bottle you should only use G12 evo antifreeze. The G13 does not give the required protection.

Is it worth doing this for a 2.0 TSI?

On 06/02/2024 at 10:56, Gammyleg said:

I believe that by removing the silica bag or replacing the expansion bottle with a NON mit silkat bottle you should only use G12 evo antifreeze. The G13 does not give the required protection.

Is it worth doing this for a 2.0 TSI? Doing water pump next week. 

On 06/02/2024 at 10:56, Gammyleg said:

I believe that by removing the silica bag or replacing the expansion bottle with a NON mit silkat bottle you should only use G12 evo antifreeze. The G13 does not give the required protection.

Is it worth doing this for a 2.0 TSI? Doing water pump next week. 

10 hours ago, ZacDaMan72 said:

Is it worth doing this for a 2.0 TSI?

Is it worth doing this for a 2.0 TSI? Doing water pump next week. 

Is it worth doing this for a 2.0 TSI? Doing water pump next week. 

I did it in mine last week. I’d rather change the fluid every two years than have a wrecked heater matrix. Having said that, I’ve bought an Audi filter to shove it into the tank, which should solve the longevity issue…. As long as it fits. 😂

Edited 15 February, 20242 yr by numskull

On 12/02/2024 at 22:32, Chicane-UK said:

Cheers folks.. in terms of where I bought the car it was a private sale but honestly I believe the seller was honest about the car and it's just a case of bad timing / luck.. really none of the issues seem that severe on the surface so happy to sort them.

 

In terms of the battery.. I was contemplating buying a proper battery tester due to having a small stack of Amazon vouchers so may be useful.. I don't have access to VCDS so no easy way for me to check if stop start has been disabled...I do have Carly which was very useful on my E61 so will read up whether that is able to pull coding information for the stop start system. 

Have a look at the battery is it the original?

 

If it is then change it, as it’ll be getting on from 2015.

 

Take a picture and post it here if you’re unsure, but you’ll be looking for a BEM sticker, if it has that it’s original. Although it’s not conclusive that it’s the original but most people would replace with a non OE

48 minutes ago, Danoid said:

Have a look at the battery is it the original?

 

If it is then change it, as it’ll be getting on from 2015.

 

Take a picture and post it here if you’re unsure, but you’ll be looking for a BEM sticker, if it has that it’s original. Although it’s not conclusive that it’s the original but most people would replace with a non OE

 

I've just bought a battery tester from Amazon which should be showing up today but I will absolutely check the age of the battery anyway just out of interest!

P0420 (Catalyst System, Bank1, Efficiency Below Threshold) raises every dpf regeneration,  yesterday checked CAT after DPF it’s in condition. No idea what to check next

*in good condition 

2 hours ago, zacko_O said:

P0420 (Catalyst System, Bank1, Efficiency Below Threshold) raises every dpf regeneration,  yesterday checked CAT after DPF it’s in condition. No idea what to check next

Might be worth making your own thread

2 hours ago, Chicane-UK said:

 

I've just bought a battery tester from Amazon which should be showing up today but I will absolutely check the age of the battery anyway just out of interest!

I’ve got a 2016 and still original battery, I hardly ever use it though, so get 12v low now and again so new battery/more driving is needed plus seems to past the usual 7 year ish mark when they start to die.

 

Because I’m cheap I’ll be buying a Ctec mxs 5.0 to see if I can keep it alive longer 

 

Have a look if it’s AGM or EFB too

2 hours ago, Danoid said:

I’ve got a 2016 and still original battery, I hardly ever use it though, so get 12v low now and again so new battery/more driving is needed plus seems to past the usual 7 year ish mark when they start to die.

 

Because I’m cheap I’ll be buying a Ctec mxs 5.0 to see if I can keep it alive longer 

 

Have a look if it’s AGM or EFB too

 

So the sticker on the car does have a BEM QR code on it so.. as you say, chances it's original though I was advised again that it was always Skoda maintained...

7P0915105 is an OEM reference from VAG for batteries. Thus, good chance, this is it's original battery.

3 hours ago, Chicane-UK said:

 

So the sticker on the car does have a BEM QR code on it so.. as you say, chances it's original though I was advised again that it was always Skoda maintained...

Yeah I reckon that’ll be original, personally I’d find a suitable Varta replacement and have it fitted.

 

If you DIY you’ll need to plug VCDS etc in, change the manufacturer, change ah from 68ah to whatever the new one is, change the bem code value to be whatever but I’d do date format like 15022024, start the car and turn steering wheel full lock left then full lock right and you should be rocking

 

I’ve not done this myself yet but from what I remember that’s the way

55 minutes ago, Danoid said:

Yeah I reckon that’ll be original, personally I’d find a suitable Varta replacement and have it fitted.

 

If you DIY you’ll need to plug VCDS etc in, change the manufacturer, change ah from 68ah to whatever the new one is, change the bem code value to be whatever but I’d do date format like 15022024, start the car and turn steering wheel full lock left then full lock right and you should be rocking

 

I’ve not done this myself yet but from what I remember that’s the way

 

I do some DIY but don't own VCDS unfortunately... I would buy it but a touch steep at £220 limited to only three cars. Appreciate it's pretty much a must have though... I come from BMW ownership more recently and INPA and DIS were essential tools. My neighbour does have a pretty decent Autel scanner so I might have to ask him if I can check it over.. it might do battery coding!

Edited 15 February, 20242 yr by Chicane-UK

Battery coding is a joke!

I've replaced my battery few months ago. The original coding had wrong battery manufacturer 3-letter code (JCB instead VAO) and code was 1111111111.

The only thing which you have to pay attention to is :

- Setting the right autonomy: 68Ah or 70Ah if you install a stronger one. 

- Changing the code. 1111111112 can be enough. It's just to warn the ECU, that battery is new for power management. 

Edited 16 February, 20242 yr by Bap33

1 hour ago, Bap33 said:

Battery coding is a joke!

I've replaced my battery few months ago. The original coding had wrong battery manufacturer 3-letter code (JCB instead VAO) and code was 1111111111.

The only thing which you have to pay attention to is :

- Setting the right autonomy: 68Ah or 70Ah if you install a stronger one. 

- Changing the code. 1111111112 can be enough. It's just to warn the ECU, that battery is new for power management. 

 

Don't forget the battery technology is important too, if u change from EFB to AGM, or vice versa.

 

AFAIK, EFB can be replaced by AGM, but switching from AGM to EFB is not possible, or at least not recommended.

 

Upon my battery order, the website had replaced the AGM one I had chosen without telling me (because there was a shortage on the first one). I've made searches to check if I could keep the EFB one, but I never found the information saying it was OK. Even the website page of the EFB battery they sent me, clearly stated: compliance not warranted for your car.

Thus I returned the EFP battery to get an AGM one.

Edited 16 February, 20242 yr by Bap33

On 05/02/2024 at 02:55, numskull said:

I replaced the OE Silikat header tank yesterday with a non silikat unit. Took about 15 minutes from start to finish.
Using hose clip pliers, I removed the top hose from the tank first (which took the most amount of time during the whole job, as it was very reluctant to budge!) then freed-up the plastic hose support bracket connected to the side of the tank.
Then, I applied upward pressure on the rear of the tank and using a flat blade screwdriver, I undid the two clips on the top rear of the tank until they’d become disconnected and finally, using both hands, I yanked the bottom fixing out of the hole in the wheelarch and the tank was free.
I then turned the tank 45 degrees and removed the bottom hose, and quickly turned the tank upside down whilst keeping a finger on the top hose inlet.
I then emptied the G13 into a jug and then installed the new tank, replaced the G13 from the old tank, topped it up with fresh G13 to the top of the min mark and then ran the car upto temp to check for leaks. 

Having changed the header tank to get rid of the Silikat bag, I decided to buy one of the VAG Silikat cartridge, which should be more reliable than the bag. 
It arrived yesterday and this is it. I’ve popped it against a spoon to give it some scale.

 

Oh BTW, that’s a teaspoon! Yep, it’s somewhat smaller than I thought it would be. Anyway, I’ll see if it’ll fit into the tank somehow. Obviously It has to be at least partially immersed in the G13 to add whatever the silicate adds to the antifreeze product. I’ll report back….

 

 

Is that the container that fits in the dual wall expansion tank?

 

I cant see any Mit Silkat markings on my tank, they may have worn off, it definitely does not have a teabag, maybe it has one of them?

 

I will have a look now I know perhaps what to look for.

This.

 

Where should my tow hook be?

50 minutes ago, brettikivi said:

This.

 

Where should my tow hook be?

Underneath the bumper, should be a cutout if it's fitted 

15 hours ago, J.R. said:

Is that the container that fits in the dual wall expansion tank?

 

I cant see any Mit Silkat markings on my tank, they may have worn off, it definitely does not have a teabag, maybe it has one of them?

 

I will have a look now I know perhaps what to look for.

That’s correct. 
So here is the new tank… 

I popped it into the tank and it fits no problem and with about 80% immersion too. I’m therefore guessing it should add the protection needed to increase the operating life of the G13.