I know this is an old topic but it's been really useful to me when my Rapid started sounding the alarm for no reason.

Has anyone tried the 150mAh batts. as they're much more readily available, 1/3 of the price and have the correct solder tags? Does the computer accept that?

The other question is does anyone know where the alarm siren is located in a 2015 Rapid? I'm guessing it's the same as a Mk3 Fabia, under the scuttle cover but if anyone can confirm before I start pulling it apart that'd be great.

Cheers, Mike.

On 07/11/2025 at 19:21, Screamager said:

Has anyone tried the 150mAh batts.

No, but I have thought about it for future reference. I think it would be OK but obviously I have not tried it. The overall combined battery length would be shorter but by bending the end pins you could meet the solder points. The 150mAh cells are thinner than the 200mAh cells. VCDS (diagnostics) measures the battery's internal resistance to determine status so this should not change (in my opinion) between the 200mAh and the 150mAh, only increasing as the cells age and deteriorate.

I have also thought about soldering a red cable into the positive solder point and a black cable on to the negative and running both wires from the alarm through the bodywork into the dash and mounting a new battery holder behind the dash to make future battery replacement easier.

Bare in mind, I work in finance so the above is just my speculation.

Kev.

Thanks Kev. I might give it a go and see if it's happy with 150mAh. Things cropped up today so I never got to finding the siren module and removing it. Just hope it doesn't go off in the middle of the night and wake up all my neighbours.

Mike.

Mine is still working at 13 years old. Varta specs say the individual NiMH cells have a life of 1000 cycles or 6 years at 25degC - which is where the replace at 6 years recommendation comes from.

TME

55620101501 VARTA MICROBATTERY - Re-battery: Ni-MH | coin...

VARTA MICROBATTERY 55620101501 | Re-battery: Ni-MH; coin,V200H; 1.2V; 200mAh; 25.4x13.9x7.1mm - This product is available in Transfer Multisort Elektronik. Check out our wide range of products.

I got a lot of other parts from TME - very happy with TME. USD15 for 5 cells. Easy to spot weld and recover old mounts.

Skoda parts shows the following part numbers as equivalent.

• 1K0 951 605 F

• 1K0 951 605 A

• 1K0 951 605 B

• 1K0 951 605 C

• 1K0 951 605 D

• 1K8 951 605

• 1K8 951 605 A

• 1K8 951 605 B

The case design has changed for some but size, mount and socket look the same according to pics on Aliexpress. Whole unit about €50 - have seen ones made in italy.

On 29/03/2023 at 23:41, davehutch said:

My Yeti is now 12 years old and has just started having this problem. 01134 code and alarm going off randomly.

I've found this battery on fleaBay which has a photo, bizarrely, exactly the same as @FatblokeVRS posted (I've messaged you @FatblokeVRS to check why that is).

I'm quite happy soldering so might give this a go before I send it to a dealer to charge me a fortune.

 

Regarding the wheel arch cover, will I need to break anything to get enough space and if I do get access to the space where the alarm sits, is it just a nut that needs removing and the cable to be disconnected?

 

Another question, in the short term, to avoid p1551ng off the neighbours, can I simply remove fuse 34 in the dashboard or will that cause other issues?

 

Thanks in advance.

@davehutch Have you ever mounted the battery from the eBay-ad above? They are still for sale, and still with the picture of @FatblokeVRS used in the TS of this topic. See https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403297455731. If yes, what were experiences?
Very strange and suspicious that they advertise something without a picture of the item they are selling....

Hi, I’m new here but my query is related to the problems on this particular post. Yeti 2 litre diesel, 2017 2wd. Alarm goes off within about 30 seconds of locking car. So for a while I haven’t been locking the car which is not ideal. Someone put a fault code reader on it a while ago as a free favour and said the fault is the backup battery in the alarm siren. I did not see the codes on screen myself. So on Friday I decided to disconnect the alarm siren. I did wonder if all would be well or if the indicators would still flash like it is in alarm activated state. Indicators did not flash after locking it so I thought all is well (I don’t mind the car having no alarm). But on Sunday morning I found the car battery is flat.

A) Can anyone tell me if disconnecting the alarm siren causes some other problem that causes adverse battery drain?

B) I know that when the car is locked there is always some current being used - can anyone tell me what amps or milliamps is the normal drain when car is off and locked .

I do have an ammeter so can check mine to see if it’s more than normal, whatever normal is.

I have not opened up the siren to see condition inside but I would have the capability to and or replace the battery pack, but ideally I would rather just have no alarm so as to avoid future problems with it.

Look forward to hearing from you with any expert helpful comments on A and B above

Update: just realised I have posted in Octavia, not Yeti but I think probably my query is not 100% Yeti specific.

Edited 20 April20 Apr by isetta

First, have you had the car battery tested?

Edited 20 April20 Apr by Carlodiesel

I second Carlo. My Yeti is now 13 years old and I've been following this forum all those years. In that time there have been reports of strange things happening, for example random warning lights coming on for no apparent cause, and in some cases replacing the car battery resolved the problem. I did experience this myself when the car was around six or seven years old. The battery wasn't giving me any problems but replacing it seemed an easy option (as it would rule out a dodgy battery; it was something that was likely to need replacing soon anyway and in the cost of running a car it's not a lot of money). I was lucky and had no more issues.

Would it be worth putting a charger on the battery until you get a full charge reading and see if you still have the fault?

@isetta I think for A you would ideally use VCDS to remove the alarm from the Gateway Installation List

See https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=txzhjGfTqqI

For B, with all modules 'asleep' you should see around 20mA (0.02A) of quiescent current. If there's a flashing LED indicating deadlock active, you'll see that 20mA fluctuate up and down with the flashing.

To get the car to the state where it is fully asleep you tend to need to leave it for around 30 minutes with no activity.

Thanks for replies. The main car battery has not been tested. Car is 9 yrs old. Owned car 3 yrs. Don’t know if battery is original but seems likely. Car starts fine and stop start works. I have now cut alarm siren open. Pic of it attached so anyone having problems with this can see model number and the inside - 2 x AAA rechargeable batteries which slot in - not soldered in. One of these reads 1.33v , one at 1.27v in series so total 2.6v so doesn’t seem too bad. But I replaced the batteries today with new energiser rechargeable batteries. Alarm now seems fine, but it’s probably too soon to be sure. Will update if it turns out to be dodgy still. And I will check the current drain when car locked up. Thanks for replies

That's interesting! So the newer generation alarm units do not have these Varta 5/V200H batteries anymore, but simple standard AA-size batteries! That's good news.

If my alarm ever breaks down (already from 2011, so fingers crossed), that might be a good reason to buy a new unit instead of trying to fix the old one.

Too bad a new unit costs € 283...

AAA but that's just my eye for detail.

It makes the appeal of a secondhand one of that part number quite a bit more...

I was thinking of trying to look at the one in our 2012 Roomster, part number 1K8 951 605 B according to partslink24, but superseded by the part number shown above, 1K0951605F.

It went off without obvious cause quite recently at home, though it was very windy at the time.

Just bought one from Silverlake via ebay for £28 that appears to have a 2024 date code on it. 🙂

Edited 22 April22 Apr by Breezy_Pete