Looking into buying an Octavia II 1.9TDI - what should I know?

[alessio92]

My 15 year old Audi A4 Avant is about to die,  and I'm looking for something slightly newer and with lower running costs than the A4s. I'm a fan of the MK2 Octavia and it ticks most of my boxes in terms of practicality, economy and the potential to tow. An upcoming wedding and house move means I'm limited to a budget of about £1500 - £2000, however.

 

Is there anything I should be aware of when looking at these?

I'm a big fan of the 1.9TDI PD engine, but was a bit suprised to see that it was offered on the Octavia until around 2010 - I thought it had been phased out around 2008 with the DPF regulations - did post-2008 1.9TDIs have a DPF fitted? Or have I just got my facts all wrong?

 

Was the Octavia Scout any good? Is it permanently 4-wheel drive or just when required as per the Quattro system?

 

Cheers

 

 

[pete275]

Regarding the DPF, Skoda hung on until 2010 using the 1.9 TDI PD engine without a DPF. Mine's a 2009 and doesn't have one (check if the tailpipe points on the ground).

 

Things to look out for are sticking vanes on the turbo (usually over 100k ish), and a decent service history. Other than that they're fairly bomb proof. Make sure its been serviced using decent oil to VW spec.

 

I've also owned 2 Scouts, great car but heavier on fuel and they tended to roll about a bit more due to the higher ride height. Both were 2.0 PD engines and both were fine to over 100k with proper servicing.

 

For your budget I'd stick to the 1.9 PD you won't find many decent Scouts at that money that haven't done moon mileage IMO

[davy4444]

Afaik the 1.9 PD does not have the fuel pressure to burn down soot in the DPF.

 

Some things on this model (I own a 2005):

• The dual mass flying wheel (DMF) break down often. They can easily be replaced by a single mass flying wheel (SMF).
• I had both of my shock springs break on me...
• I had a small fuel leak at some point
• I had a small coolant leak at some point
• My turbo has been making noise since I bought it, but nothing is bad about it.
• The engine is reliable if it has had good maintenance. Look for that. Mine has 430.000km on it and it will probably keep going to 500k.
• Not sure what is going in on the UK but on the continent, diesels are easy too find these days. Lots of uncertainty on value due to regulations.
• The only time the car left me was when someone had been working on it (turbo pressure was gone due to loose pipe).
• I replaced tons of stuff but nothing weird (brakes, ac compressor but I believe it was fixed on later models, ac radiator, shock absorbers, battery).
• Not much rust, original exhaust, reliable starting, ...

[J.R.]

Can I ask what was the part of the AC compressor that failed please?

 

Mine wasn't working and after replacing the G65 sensor and checking the gas pressure both by VCDS and guages it still does not produce cold air, not that it would in the current weather, the pump turns of course and the only other thing I can think of replacing is the solenoid valve on the pump but that will require a regas hence my question.

 

To the OP, I bought mine a few months ago, it had one rusty and holed brake backplate and on closer inspection they all need replacing (50% done) whilst the discs all looked good on the visible outside face the inner faces were very rusted leaving a small area in contact with the pad, only 20% in the case of the perforated backplate.

 

It had lived by the sea for some of its life though, suspension X members and wishbones etc are all quite rusty but it gose to show just how good the rust proofing is on the other important parts and the bodyshell.

 

If I were buying again I would ask the questions that you are asking and also buy VCDS and scan any vehicle I was considering buying, not a generic OBD reader but VCDS, it will pay for itself by listing all thenon mission critical faults that need remedying for which you can negotiate the price. Just thought, it told me (had I believed it) that my 1.9tdi needed the glowplugs replacing.

Edited 17 December, 2018 by J.R.

[DJSmiley]

I also have a 2005 1.9TDI.

 

- Dual mass flywheel had to be replaced (which is common, usually happens around 250k km)

- Aircon condensor replaced (it was loosing refrigerant on the top of the dryer - common problem)

- I had a small coolant leak (Coolant flange was leaking)

- Thermostat failed

 

All are issues which can be expected, along with general maintenance (filters, brakes, tyres, battery and so on)

 

Reading for faults is a good suggestion. But a well maintained 1.9 will last 'forever'.

 

You only have to pay some attention to the BXE and BLS engines, since they have some higher rates of failures due to camshaft bearing issues.

Although not everyone had these fail, but if it does, the engine is toast. I personally would avoid those, just to be sure.

 

As for DPF, there are 1.9TDI engines fitted with DPF. We have 2 company cars (Caddy) with 1.9TDI and DPF fitted. But this might be different for EU and UK cars. 

 

Turbo: No 'real' figures or limits. All depends on the driver and usage. My collegue had one failing at 80k, but he's used to drive full throttle, even with a cold engine. Oil topups? Only when the light is lit..

Well, (ab)using that hard...any turbo will fail.

I still have the original turbo. As long as you take proper care (warming up the engine before pushing it to its limits and using proper oil / changes / topups), no problem at all.

 

 

My own car (Octavia, BJB engine) is still running fine, currently at 415k km (approx 257k miles).

 

[Tilt]

Check that the Climate Control cools, if this is important to you.

Had mine since 2011 with not many issues and i don't follow strict servicing guides. (tempting fate admitting that). Near 140,000 miles now.

The main issue with mine has been the brakes, or more specifically sticking caliper pistons, which only a full strip-down and rebuild of each caliper would have prevented anyway, imo. 

Cruise control stalk may fail, but just need contacts cleaning. (re-solder for a more permanent fix).

They tend to get a lot of moisture inside in winter. (inside the doors i believe) Rain wind deflectors can help this by airing now and again. (leaving windows open a little).

I did have the DMF replaced upon purchase - at cost to selling garage.

 

Personally i find mine noisy but so far very reliable, not too expensive to run, practical and easy to drive especially with the DSG.

[seriesdriver]

Ours is an 2009 tdi it has done 97k miles we got it in 2010 with 12k on it. the aircon on ours stopped working but it was a compressor bolt that had loosened I had it regassed  at the same time and the gas and lube taken out was almost exactly the same amounts as needed for the refill.

 

We get it serviced every year correct oil is important for pd engines. It had its 2nd cam belt change and water pump in the summer.

 

The only thing that I have changed more often than expected is front brake pads and discs it is on its 3rd set and it is a family car not a race car. 

Edited 18 December, 2018 by seriesdriver

[robt100]

I have a mk2 1.9pd octavia (2006 55 plate). Its covered 219,000 miles, I've had it since 82,000 in 2013. Apart from service/wear n tear items (oil, filters, cambelt, tyres). The only repairs/replacements are:
1 set of discs and pads
2 Rear Calipers (both decided to leak at the same time)
1 set of springs/shocks (upgraded to B4 shocks and eibach springs as it was half the price of OEM!)
1 Thermostat housing (had gone brittle with age)
1 set of front radius arm console bushes

Yes, the air-con doesn't work, but that's down to a de-laminated lorry tyre having a good try at demolishing the front of the car. Apart from that everything works, and it returns 56mpg average! Also had a stage 1 Shark Remap and an Amundsen+ unit with bluetooth and satnav retrofitted.

Still on the original Turbo (always do warm-up/cool-down process) and the DMF was changed when I bought it and is now just about showing a tiny sign on wear when cold going up hills in 5th (but im talking stone cold after a day or two of non-use)
As long as you look after them and service them you cant really go wrong, they don't break! I think its probably cost me around £2,000 in repairs over 5 years and 137,000 miles. So thats 0.14p per mile to repair, thats not bad.
Hope you find the car you need, and hope some of that helps!

[labman1001]

I've a 2.0TDI with the BKD engine and it doesn't have a PDF, just the EGR, and it's a 2007 they're maybe not as economical as the 1.9 even though they've a 6 speed box so if economy isn't a total engine the 2 litre pre facelift might be an option for you...

 

I've had mines 3 1/2 years and done 52,000 miles and changed a couple of calipers as they'd seized, one rear wheel bearing, one front CV Joint, one drop link and broken spring thanks to the states of the road ... It's on 122,400 miles and the only thing not working is the rear wiper which is a common issue.

[alessio92]

On 17/12/2018 at 21:00, pete275 said:

Regarding the DPF, Skoda hung on until 2010 using the 1.9 TDI PD engine without a DPF. Mine's a 2009 and doesn't have one (check if the tailpipe points on the ground).

 

Things to look out for are sticking vanes on the turbo (usually over 100k ish), and a decent service history. Other than that they're fairly bomb proof. Make sure its been serviced using decent oil to VW spec.

 

I've also owned 2 Scouts, great car but heavier on fuel and they tended to roll about a bit more due to the higher ride height. Both were 2.0 PD engines and both were fine to over 100k with proper servicing.

 

For your budget I'd stick to the 1.9 PD you won't find many decent Scouts at that money that haven't done moon mileage IMO

Thanks, the comment about the scout rolling is particularly helpful here as my OH gets easily travelsick and the bouncier the car, the worse it is! Is the downwards-pointing tailpipe a sign that it doesn't have a DPF then?
 

On 17/12/2018 at 21:05, davy4444 said:

Afaik the 1.9 PD does not have the fuel pressure to burn down soot in the DPF.

 

Some things on this model (I own a 2005):

• The dual mass flying wheel (DMF) break down often. They can easily be replaced by a single mass flying wheel (SMF).
• I had both of my shock springs break on me...
• I had a small fuel leak at some point
• I had a small coolant leak at some point
• My turbo has been making noise since I bought it, but nothing is bad about it.
• The engine is reliable if it has had good maintenance. Look for that. Mine has 430.000km on it and it will probably keep going to 500k.
• Not sure what is going in on the UK but on the continent, diesels are easy too find these days. Lots of uncertainty on value due to regulations.
• The only time the car left me was when someone had been working on it (turbo pressure was gone due to loose pipe).
• I replaced tons of stuff but nothing weird (brakes, ac compressor but I believe it was fixed on later models, ac radiator, shock absorbers, battery).
• Not much rust, original exhaust, reliable starting, ...

 

On 17/12/2018 at 23:10, J.R. said:

Can I ask what was the part of the AC compressor that failed please?

 

Mine wasn't working and after replacing the G65 sensor and checking the gas pressure both by VCDS and guages it still does not produce cold air, not that it would in the current weather, the pump turns of course and the only other thing I can think of replacing is the solenoid valve on the pump but that will require a regas hence my question.

 

To the OP, I bought mine a few months ago, it had one rusty and holed brake backplate and on closer inspection they all need replacing (50% done) whilst the discs all looked good on the visible outside face the inner faces were very rusted leaving a small area in contact with the pad, only 20% in the case of the perforated backplate.

 

It had lived by the sea for some of its life though, suspension X members and wishbones etc are all quite rusty but it gose to show just how good the rust proofing is on the other important parts and the bodyshell.

 

If I were buying again I would ask the questions that you are asking and also buy VCDS and scan any vehicle I was considering buying, not a generic OBD reader but VCDS, it will pay for itself by listing all thenon mission critical faults that need remedying for which you can negotiate the price. Just thought, it told me (had I believed it) that my 1.9tdi needed the glowplugs replacing.

 

On 18/12/2018 at 12:13, DJSmiley said:

I also have a 2005 1.9TDI.

 

- Dual mass flywheel had to be replaced (which is common, usually happens around 250k km)

- Aircon condensor replaced (it was loosing refrigerant on the top of the dryer - common problem)

- I had a small coolant leak (Coolant flange was leaking)

- Thermostat failed

 

All are issues which can be expected, along with general maintenance (filters, brakes, tyres, battery and so on)

 

Reading for faults is a good suggestion. But a well maintained 1.9 will last 'forever'.

 

You only have to pay some attention to the BXE and BLS engines, since they have some higher rates of failures due to camshaft bearing issues.

Although not everyone had these fail, but if it does, the engine is toast. I personally would avoid those, just to be sure.

 

As for DPF, there are 1.9TDI engines fitted with DPF. We have 2 company cars (Caddy) with 1.9TDI and DPF fitted. But this might be different for EU and UK cars. 

 

Turbo: No 'real' figures or limits. All depends on the driver and usage. My collegue had one failing at 80k, but he's used to drive full throttle, even with a cold engine. Oil topups? Only when the light is lit..

Well, (ab)using that hard...any turbo will fail.

I still have the original turbo. As long as you take proper care (warming up the engine before pushing it to its limits and using proper oil / changes / topups), no problem at all.

 

 

My own car (Octavia, BJB engine) is still running fine, currently at 415k km (approx 257k miles).

 

Thanks to all the above... 3 questions from what I've highlighted:
1. Is there a part number or something to help me get the right SMF for this model?
2. Re: VCDS - Where can I get one, and how much should I be paying?

3. How do I check if a car has the BXE or BLS engine?

On 18/12/2018 at 13:20, Tilt said:

Check that the Climate Control cools, if this is important to you.

Had mine since 2011 with not many issues and i don't follow strict servicing guides. (tempting fate admitting that). Near 140,000 miles now.

The main issue with mine has been the brakes, or more specifically sticking caliper pistons, which only a full strip-down and rebuild of each caliper would have prevented anyway, imo. 

Cruise control stalk may fail, but just need contacts cleaning. (re-solder for a more permanent fix).

They tend to get a lot of moisture inside in winter. (inside the doors i believe) Rain wind deflectors can help this by airing now and again. (leaving windows open a little).

I did have the DMF replaced upon purchase - at cost to selling garage.

 

Personally i find mine noisy but so far very reliable, not too expensive to run, practical and easy to drive especially with the DSG.

Thanks, will check climate control. I want a manual so no DSG for me!
 

On 18/12/2018 at 21:37, seriesdriver said:

Ours is an 2009 tdi it has done 97k miles we got it in 2010 with 12k on it. the aircon on ours stopped working but it was a compressor bolt that had loosened I had it regassed  at the same time and the gas and lube taken out was almost exactly the same amounts as needed for the refill.

 

We get it serviced every year correct oil is important for pd engines. It had its 2nd cam belt change and water pump in the summer.

 

The only thing that I have changed more often than expected is front brake pads and discs it is on its 3rd set and it is a family car not a race car. 

What is the correct oil? Depending on source I get told 5W30, 5W40 or 10W40. I can't seem to find a consistent answer.
 

On 19/12/2018 at 17:10, robt100 said:

I have a mk2 1.9pd octavia (2006 55 plate). Its covered 219,000 miles, I've had it since 82,000 in 2013. Apart from service/wear n tear items (oil, filters, cambelt, tyres). The only repairs/replacements are:
1 set of discs and pads
2 Rear Calipers (both decided to leak at the same time)
1 set of springs/shocks (upgraded to B4 shocks and eibach springs as it was half the price of OEM!)
1 Thermostat housing (had gone brittle with age)
1 set of front radius arm console bushes

Yes, the air-con doesn't work, but that's down to a de-laminated lorry tyre having a good try at demolishing the front of the car. Apart from that everything works, and it returns 56mpg average! Also had a stage 1 Shark Remap and an Amundsen+ unit with bluetooth and satnav retrofitted.

Still on the original Turbo (always do warm-up/cool-down process) and the DMF was changed when I bought it and is now just about showing a tiny sign on wear when cold going up hills in 5th (but im talking stone cold after a day or two of non-use)
As long as you look after them and service them you cant really go wrong, they don't break! I think its probably cost me around £2,000 in repairs over 5 years and 137,000 miles. So thats 0.14p per mile to repair, thats not bad.
Hope you find the car you need, and hope some of that helps!

Thanks, this is very helpful!
 

On 20/12/2018 at 06:58, labman1001 said:

I've a 2.0TDI with the BKD engine and it doesn't have a PDF, just the EGR, and it's a 2007 they're maybe not as economical as the 1.9 even though they've a 6 speed box so if economy isn't a total engine the 2 litre pre facelift might be an option for you...

 

I've had mines 3 1/2 years and done 52,000 miles and changed a couple of calipers as they'd seized, one rear wheel bearing, one front CV Joint, one drop link and broken spring thanks to the states of the road ... It's on 122,400 miles and the only thing not working is the rear wiper which is a common issue.

So the 2.0TDI is worth a look? I assumed they were all DPF engines so hadn't even considered one.


Thanks so much for these replies, it's exactly what I'd hoped for in terms of info. Sorry I have more questions, just trying to be properly informed.
 

[pete275]

Regarding the 1.9, yes pipes pointing at the floor = no dpf, most 1.9 PDs aren't apart from the superb greenline AFAIK. 

 

the 2.0 is an OK engine, but some had issues with oil pump drives wearing prematurely, and the injector looms in the top of the engine failing. You could look at a remap on the 1.9, 130BHP is easily achievable.

 

 

[silver1011]

1 hour ago, alessio92 said:

Thanks, the comment about the scout rolling is particularly helpful here as my OH gets easily travelsick and the bouncier the car, the worse it is! Is the downwards-pointing tailpipe a sign that it doesn't have a DPF then?
 

What is the correct oil? Depending on source I get told 5W30, 5W40 or 10W40. I can't seem to find a consistent answer.

 

I've had a Scout and wouldn't say it suffered any more body roll than the regular Octavia. The extra ride hide on the Scout comes from higher profile tyres rather than modifications to the suspension.

 

All diesel Scout's have DPF's.

 

Just use VW 507.00 oil, whether it be the 1.9 non-DPF or the 2.0 with or without DPF, or if it's on fixed or variable servicing intervals.

[pete275]

The Scout definitely has a raised ride height, 30mm if memory serves. Ours did wallow about a fair bit, but thats only our experience. It made my other half travelsick and is one of the reasons we didn't have another.

[silver1011]

The extra ride height on the MkII Scout (over the regular 4x4) comes from a higher profile tyre, nothing else.

 

It could be the extra 'give' in the higher tyre sidewall that gives a little more movement.

 

125mm for the Greenline

127mm for vRS

140mm for the standard car

163mm for the 4x4

179mm for the Scout

 

Edited 23 December, 2018 by silver1011

[SuperbTWM]

On 17/12/2018 at 21:05, davy4444 said:

Afaik the 1.9 PD does not have the fuel pressure to burn down soot in the DPF.

 

 

Its not the fuel pressure its the timing. Because the unit injectors require actuation from the camshaft the timing is pretty much fixed on a PD. Whereas a common rail engine can inject fuel while the exhaust valves are open as they have fuel pressure all the time. 

[seriesdriver]

What is the correct oil? Depending on source I get told 5W30, 5W40 or 10W40. I can't seem to find a consistent answer.

 

What is said above you need to make sure it is the correct spec oil vw 507 is what you want, 

 

i use quantum long life iii oil which is 5w 30  there is a dealer who sells it for a good price on ebay a lot of the time 

[SuperbTWM]

20 minutes ago, seriesdriver said:

What is the correct oil? Depending on source I get told 5W30, 5W40 or 10W40. I can't seem to find a consistent answer.

 

What is said above you need to make sure it is the correct spec oil vw 507 is what you want, 

 

i use quantum long life iii oil which is 5w 30  there is a dealer who sells it for a good price on ebay a lot of the time 

 

IIRC you can get the minimum 505.01 in 5-30 and 5-40. The 507 stuff that pretty much covers all bases and what is classed as 'long life' oil in the PD world is always 5-30.

 

So basically, if your going for 505.01 it doesn't matter which you pick really. The Quantum stuff was 5-40 last time I bought some, they had a load in at the dealer when I went for some parts once and he did me a good deal on 20 litres (think they were trying to get rid of it).

 

I sold the car soon after so the 505.01 has been going in the Qashqai 

Edited 23 December, 2018 by SuperbTWM

[labman1001]

pete275 as far as I'm aware the oil pump issue on 2 litre engines never applied to the diesel engine in the Octavia I'm sure for some reason it was only Volkswagen Golfs etc that experienced it.

 

alessio92 the 2 litre diesel is a decent engine and as long as you stay away from the Facelift Mk2 from 2009 onwards the BKD engine fitted in them does not come with a DPF... It isn't for some reason as economical as the 1.9, even in the Mk2, despite the manual 6 speed gearbox but it will still return respectable figures 

[johnmb]

20 hours ago, seriesdriver said:

What is the correct oil? Depending on source I get told 5W30, 5W40 or 10W40. I can't seem to find a consistent answer.

 

What is said above you need to make sure it is the correct spec oil vw 507 is what you want, 

 

i use quantum long life iii oil which is 5w 30  there is a dealer who sells it for a good price on ebay a lot of the time 

I had a 1.9 PD 130 bhp octy , manual 6 speed and ran it for 248ooo miles on vw 507  5w/30 oil , and in the 13 years other than normal maintenance , but all cam belts and water pumps  at 60k mile periods ( important there done ) only had to do Front wheel bearings ,  Rear Shocks , one broke ,  Relaced rear exhast as bracket holding it had broken , Track rod ends ( tracking problem ) and 1 full set of disccs and pads all round , was still on original clutch and DMF  , original Turbo ,  only got rid november 2017 because skoda were doing the £3.5k scrappage deal on a New Car , iam sure it would of run for another 50k miles easaly maybe more 

[Ju1ian1001]

On 24/12/2018 at 01:43, labman1001 said:

pete275 as far as I'm aware the oil pump issue on 2 litre engines never applied to the diesel engine in the Octavia I'm sure for some reason it was only Volkswagen Golfs etc that experienced it.

 

alessio92 the 2 litre diesel is a decent engine and as long as you stay away from the Facelift Mk2 from 2009 onwards the BKD engine fitted in them does not come with a DPF... It isn't for some reason as economical as the 1.9, even in the Mk2, despite the manual 6 speed gearbox but it will still return respectable figures 

The oil pump drive problem, only effected the Audi A4 and Audi A6 as the pump drive was/is part of the balancer shaft, no Golf or any skoda had the balancer shaft so does not have the problems with it.

[labman1001]

Hi Julian1001, thanks for clearing that up .... I've only had my Octavia 3 1/2 years  so I'm not aware of all the issues and problems with various engines ... I was aware certain 2 litre engines had this oil pump drive and the new petrol engines had issues of their own 

[Ju1ian1001]

6 minutes ago, labman1001 said:

Hi Julian1001, thanks for clearing that up .... I've only had my Octavia 3 1/2 years  so I'm not aware of all the issues and problems with various engines ... I was aware certain 2 litre engines had this oil pump drive and the new petrol engines had issues of their own 

No only the Audi's had the balancer shaft to make the PD a little more refined, the unit had 2 types of drive to the oil pump, early units had a chain that failed (would you believe a tensioner problem) so it lost drive and hence no oil pressure, late units had a spline on the end of the shaft that wears flat, again with the engine losing oil pressure, in both cases rendering the engine as scrap. the CR engines don't have the balancer shaft is they much more refined so suit the Audi's better. The Audi PD engine has a different code but i can't remember it at the moment.

[Dzenan_Mujadzic]

Sorry guys for bumping the thread, I have recently got a 2009 Octavia 1.9 tdi BJB engine. In my state they are shown as Euro 4 standard but on this forum i read that they are Euro 3, since they do not have egr valve cooling? How can i check if mine has Egr cooling? Or is it just my states regulative different? Thanks in advance

[DJSmiley]

Mine (also BJB engine, a 2005 O2) is registered as Euro3 at RDW (Dutch car register). Afaik, Euro4 started somewhere in 2005, but in 2005, not all cars had this standard (My car was produced in dec 2004, but registered in 2005)

 

However, I actually don't care: Both euro3 and euro4 are a pita anyway regarding environmental zones (at least in mainland europe)

[Dzenan_Mujadzic]

Thanks for the answer. I don't care about emissions neither since in Bosnia 50% of cars are still Euro 3 or even less , i'm just asking for myself to confirm that it can actually be Euro 4 or that's just in my weird country lol.