And here we go again!
 

A few days after the service and ‘gearbox/software/whatever’ upgrade , moving off from starting is annoying again. I reverse down my drive and , oddly(?) I don’t notice any problems in reverse. Once in the road however the first couple of hundred yards have to be driven carefully as there’s a slight stutter and a reluctance to run smoothly in second gear. After a couple of hundred yards it’s fine and runs smoothly after that. 
 

I’ve also noticed that I’ve stalled this car more often in the last 12 months than I have in any manual car I’ve driven over the last thirty years. And it’s always the same - moving up into second gear from first at low revs. It’s not the scary Sudden lack of power, trying to kill you stall , that existed before the initial upgrade, but it seems to need far more revs and speed in first than ‘normal’ cars before the gear change to second is smooth. 
 

it must be connected surely? This is what I have just described when driving away when cold. It won’t allow me to change up into second without stuttering. 
 

any thoughts? 

Despair!

That's my thought!

Seems to me that whilst the upgrade(s) remove the dangerous stall problem and the kangaroo seems to go on holiday it must have bad weather because when it comes back it's as miserable as before it went! 😁

On 15/06/2020 at 15:53, Quickasaquickthing said:

And here we go again!
 

A few days after the service and ‘gearbox/software/whatever’ upgrade , moving off from starting is annoying again. I reverse down my drive and , oddly(?) I don’t notice any problems in reverse. Once in the road however the first couple of hundred yards have to be driven carefully as there’s a slight stutter and a reluctance to run smoothly in second gear. After a couple of hundred yards it’s fine and runs smoothly after that. 
 

I’ve also noticed that I’ve stalled this car more often in the last 12 months than I have in any manual car I’ve driven over the last thirty years. And it’s always the same - moving up into second gear from first at low revs. It’s not the scary Sudden lack of power, trying to kill you stall , that existed before the initial upgrade, but it seems to need far more revs and speed in first than ‘normal’ cars before the gear change to second is smooth. 
 

it must be connected surely? This is what I have just described when driving away when cold. It won’t allow me to change up into second without stuttering. 
 

any thoughts? 

 

As a matter of interest what low revs number are we talking about here?

 

 

That’s a good question Apprentice, and one I’m not able to answer properly at the moment. In every driving course I was part of as an emergency service driver I was taught to change gear according to conditions, sound, feel, terrain , not by what it said on the revcounter. 

 

Thats what ive done ever since. And to be honest , following those rules I tend to change up from first to second pretty quickly when the car is just rolling. This has served me well over 30 years.

 

a brief google tends to support me I think, this from driving test tips( I think) . In normal driving, as you begin moving off in 1st gear, you will need to change into 2nd gear almost instantly.

 

But this car needs to be held in first much more in my experience. Is this a ‘characteristic ‘ of the engine or an anti stall feature introduced by the upgrades?  I don’t know.

 

i seem to remember reading somewhere in this thread that someone was told by a dealer to hold it in first till at least 10 mph before changing up. Seems odd to me. 

I own car with 1.5 tsi 110kw 2020 year.
I have a „kangaroo“ problem with my 1.5 tsi since first day when engine is cold. It durings about 2 minutes after engin start every day. My engine is MY20 and engine code is DPCA. Software version is 9596. 
I also notice big vibrations during 2-cylinders mod between 1400-1600 rpm. Turbo lag is present also.

Is there someone with MY20 car and similar problems?

22 hours ago, golfhp said:

I own car with 1.5 tsi 110kw 2020 year.
 Turbo lag is present also.

 

I also own 1.5tsi 110kw (manual), and also thought car had turbo lag issues but turns out gas pedal response is set to delayed instead of linear

Meaning, by default, throttle response won't be instant,  but how much a car will accelerate depends on how hard you pressed the pedal and for how long

 

I switched throttle response to linear (meaning 50% pedal is 50% gas, 100% pedal is 100% gas) using ODB coding, and car responds much better now and without noticeable lag during hard acceleration.

 

Delayed response is set by default as that brings fuel consumption down.

@Fux

this coding give some changes for kangaroo? 
 

can you said, what blocks have you coded? 
I will try to repeat your actions.

 

Thank you. 

4 minutes ago, kifir said:

@Fux

this coding give some changes for kangaroo? 
 

can you said, what blocks have you coded? 
I will try to repeat your actions.

 

Thank you. 

 

No, this wont affect kangaroo - you have to have a dealer apply an engine software fix for that

 

This coding will just make the gas pedal behave like in most other cars. You can still have issues with power loss in 1st and 2nd because that is a different problem.

 

DIRECT ACCELERATION - THROTTLE RESPONSE

With this mod, we can change the behavior of the throttle. Option B offers more linear acceleration without sudden deliveries.
Steps:
1 - Module 44 - Power steering.
2 - Adaptation
3 - Select - Driving profile switching
Options:
A - Gradual, time controlled (this is the one that comes standard) We
select option B
B - Directly, controlled by threshold value
We accept and enter the code (19249)

Edited 22 July, 20205 yr by Fux

5 minutes ago, Fux said:

 

Ne, ovo neće utjecati na kenguru - za to morate dobiti distributera koji će primijeniti softverski program motora

 

Ovo kodiranje upravo će učiniti da se papučica gasa ponaša kao u većini drugih automobila. Još uvijek možete imati problema s gubitkom napajanja u 1. i 2. mjestu, jer je to drugačiji problem.

 

DIREKTNA OPREMA - ODGOVOR ZA GORIVO

Pomoću ovog moda možemo promijeniti ponašanje leptira za gas. Opcija B nudi linearno ubrzanje bez naglih isporuka.
Koraci:
1 - Modul 44 - Servo upravljač.
2 - Prilagodba
3 - Odaberite - Promjena profila vožnje
Mogućnosti:
A - Postupno, vremenski kontrolirano (ovo je standardno)
Biramo opciju B
B - Izravno, kontrolirano graničnom vrijednošću
Prihvaćamo i unosimo kod (19249)

Thank you. 

I will try it next week.

Well winter is coming and after a nearly a year after the update done on my car in Nov 2019 I am wondering if any DSG drivers are still having the jerky drive in low gears just after start?

 

I have popped Skoda a question to see if there has been any new ECU updates for this issue. I should be on ECU version 9752 but as there is no way for me to check all I can believe is that they did it in Nov.

 

I have been living with it but would ideally like it sorted before the warranty runs out in August next year...

@MJ1 Skoda announced in November that the problem has been resolved and they are not going to do anything.

Me too still stay with this **** (Octavia MY18).

Warranty ended a week ago, dealer must be happy...

Edited 16 October, 20205 yr by kifir

I will update folk if I find out there is any new ECU update but I am not holding great hopes.

 

I will write a formal letter saying it is not fixed to the dealer and Skoda before the Warranty expires as a marker in case of further trouble. Not that it will do any good but I am always prepared to try small claims if I think I have a case. At the moment the car works but is not smooth at start up and it was not fixed in Nov last year.

 

The joys of being on the bleeding edge of car design...

@MJ1 I don't have a DSG, but my manual 1.5TSI MY18 Karoq had an update at its first service in March, 2 weeks before national lockdown, so have done very little driving since. However since the cooler weather started, I've noticed 'wobbles' in low gear while the car is warming up. Can live with it in the current circumstances, but praying I never again get the life-threatening total power loss that I had before.

My update was done was done about 2 months ago on a MY19 DSG. The wobble is still there but for a shorter time - only a couple of minutes. With the DSG, the gearbox compensated for low torque by dropping a gear or two suddenly and the gearbox no longer does that.  Overall, I am happy that the update has fixed the problem.  It might also have improved the fuel consumption slightly .

4 hours ago, Teds said:

My update was done was done about 2 months ago on a MY19 DSG. The wobble is still there but for a shorter time - only a couple of minutes. With the DSG, the gearbox compensated for low torque by dropping a gear or two suddenly and the gearbox no longer does that.  Overall, I am happy that the update has fixed the problem.  It might also have improved the fuel consumption slightly .

Do you know what version have this update? 
What is you fuel consumption in city after update? 

The engine type is shown as DADA and update was 24EU.

On fuel consumption, I can't really give you a good answer because I live in a small town and try to avoid driving in the city. On clear roads driving at 50-60mph, the car will return about 45mpg.  Driving faster on motorways reduces that to about 40mpg. In our small town, doing only 2 -3 mile trips, consumption is around no higher than 30mpg

No response from SUK yet so have chased them again today. Thanks for the updates I will see if there has been any new update I think I had the 24EU update applied but it really has not made any difference IMO. It is not a major problem just a little niggle and was wondering if they had done any more on this, I guess not...

Hello,

 

Found the main plausible explanation for the kangaroo.

As you probably know, the 1.5tsi engine does not have an EGR, the egr is replaced by the valves overlap, "scavenging" the exhaust gasses in order to minimize the NOx.

It is all about the inlet and exhaust valves overlap and recirculate the smoke more that is should, it is not a mistake, is almost the same thing like #dieselgate.

So the fix is to remap the ECU with the map for the exhaust valves that should be minimum retard(or to remain on zero)  in order to not overlap with the advance of the inlet valves.

Please, if someone has the possibility to check these 2 maps and post them then we can be 100% sure and probably someone smart enough can do the hole map and test it.

Sorry for my bad english

Why some cars and not others @cri1410sti?

Very small differences in initial cam angle setting when fitting original belt?

Hello again, 

 

Since also the Kodiak (that is bigger and has more weight) has the same engine and does not have the kangaroo issue, someone can download the map from Kodiak and the map from Karoq and check what maps are different.

For sure we can see it as a progress fo fix kangaroo  

I was meaning why some Karoqs with same engine as others Karoqs?

Some had/have kangaroo trouble, some not.

Edited 19 May, 20233 yr by Breezy_Pete

That is exactly what happens to a race engine with large valve overlap (fixed not variable) when it bogs down and falls "off the cam"

 

I remember seeing an Imp with a screamer engine kangarooing for half a lap of Lydden Hill before finally finding its breath.

 

Entirely plausible.

 

These cars are getting stupidly complicated.

Hi,

 

Another ideea is that there are different sw versions for 1.5tsi karoqs.

 

Or, other ideea is that they pushed/forced the valve advance/exhaust  (map) to the limit the actual/real capabilities of the mechanical/electrical actuators for the timing gears/cams.

 

Thanks!

Hello Guys!

I have Skoda Karoq 2018 and there was never any update. I was searching on Skoda update site by VIN, but no updates. Are there any updates, maybe I do not know how to install them?

 

44 minutes ago, Skyguar said:

Hello Guys!

I have Skoda Karoq 2018 and there was never any update. I was searching on Skoda update site by VIN, but no updates. Are there any updates, maybe I do not know how to install them?

 

That website is a placebo, you will not get firmware updates from there.

So you will need to visit a dealer/independant workshop to get firmware updates, but remember if the car is working now, why mess with it.