How To: Oil and Filter change on MK3 Octavia (2015 Scout)

[smokinmonkey]

This is a simple procedure that anyone can do as long as you have access to axle stands, ramps, car lift etc.

 

I'm writing this guide to pull together all the tools needed and steps required to carry this out. This was my first time and I spent more time going back and forth looking for sockets etc than actually doing the work!

 

Required:

• torx head screw driver (screws that hold plastic under tray)
• 14mm socket (bolts that the under tray) 1/2" drive preferred
• 13mm socket (drain nut on oil filter housing) <<< this might actually be 12mm, I'm going by memory. But you need to use a 1/4" drive, 1/2" socket in same size doesn't fit.
• 32mm socket (to open the actual filter housing) 1/2" drive required
• 19mm socket (to open the drain plug on the sump) 1/2" drive
• 1/2" and 1/4" extender bars (to reach the oil filter housing)
• New oil (I used 5w30 fully synthetic)
• Oil filter
• Container to catch old oil (minimum 5L in size).
• Funnel for container (I used a wide mouthed bucket to catch mine so didn't need a funnel)
• Old clothes / overalls (the oil WILL splash no matter how careful your are)

 

Optional:

• cable ties to hold back wires and pipes
• cardboard or sheets to catch oil spills
• rubber or latex gloves
• kitchen roll/blue roll
• Small hook or pick set (like this: https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/garage-essentials/rolson-4-piece-pick-hook-set)
• Scissors

 

Step 1. Get the car raised up. I used a set of ramps. If the car is cold, let it run for a few minute to heat the oil a little. This will make it flow out faster.

 

 

 

Step 2. Remove the under tray.

 

Get underneath with your torx screwdriver. The plastic under tray has 3 bolts at the bottom (towards the middle of the car), and 4 at the top (towards the front of the car, 2 on left and 2 on the right).

 

The torx screws are located along the side of the tray (3 on each side) and 3 along the top (between the 2 sets of bolts on left and right). 9 screws in total. Mine had less as some must have been lost during previous work.

 

Set the screws safely aside and grab your ratchet and 14mm socket. First, loosen all the bolts and then proceed to remove them. When you're down to the final 2 bolts, use your arm to press up against the weight of the tray, otherwise it might fall and possibly snap at the last bolt or might just hit you instead. Set the bolts aside for later.

 

Step 3. Replace the oil filter.

 

The oil filter is located towards the front of the engine, just behind the fan. Look up from underneath and you should see this:

 

 

I used cable ties to pull the wires and rubber pipe out of the way so I could get better access.

 

Then I grabbed my 1/4" ratchet, extender bar and the 12mm or 13mm socket. Put down your cardboard or rags and grab your oil collection container. Open up the small drain bolt in the center and catch all the oil that comes out.

 

Next grab your 1/2" ratchet, extender bar and 32mm socket. Open up the oil filter casing, catch the oil and then pull out the old filter.

 

Your new filter should have 2 rubber rings, one tiny and one large. The tiny one is to replace the ring on the drain plug, and the large one replaces the ring on the filter housing. Do this now, and use some kitchen roll to clean them up a bit, especially the treads etc.

 

I couldn't get the old rubber rings off, so had to use a small hook tool to grab underneath.

 

Insert your new filter into the housing, then replace the drain plug on the housing. Now screw the housing on using your hand, tighten with the 32mm socket. I didn't use a torque wrench, just went until it was lightly tightened.

 

IMPORTANT: If you used cable ties to hold back wires and pipes, grab some scissors and cut the cables ties now. I forgot, finished the job and replaced the under tray and then had to take it off again! The cable ties / wires etc could possibly foul the radiator fan and cause some trouble.

 

Step 4. Drain the old oil

 

Pop your bonnet and open the oil filler cap.

 

Grab your cardboard or rags, 1/2" ratchet, 19mm socket, and container for the old oil, slide back towards the middle of the car to find the sump and drain plug. You should this:

 

 

Loosen the bolt with the socket and then open it the rest of the way by hand, have your container ready as this is gonna fly out fast.

 

Once all the oil has drained, replace the sump bolt and tighten with the ratchet (not super tight!)

 

Dispose of the waste oil at your local recycling center.

 

Step 5. Replace the under tray and fill with new oil.

 

I put the bolts in first, by hand and then tightened them up with the 14mm socket. Then put the screws back in.

 

Now fill up with new oil. I think the 2.0L Octavia TDI takes 4.6L of oil, but don't quote me on that. I bought a 5L of oil, filled it with 4L, let it sit for a few minutes and checked the dip stick, then topped up a little, let it sit, checked the dip stick again.

 

I think I used just under 4.5L.

 

Don't forget to replace the oil filler cap once you've filled it with new oil.

 

 

 

And you're done! Put away the tools, get the car off the ramps / axle stands / whatever and get cleaned up. If I've missed anything out or made any grave mistakes, let me know. I changed my oil and filter yesterday. Was going to do the fuel filter too but had got the wrong one. Will get it changed next week.

[Tech1e]

30 Nm for the sump bolt so not tight at all

[VRS_White_Hatch]

On some cars I've had you have to fit either a new sump plug or sump plug washer after an oil change. Does Skoda require anything similar? 

 

On the subject of warming the car first I have always thought this, but I wonder if its just a legacy from oil years ago when in the cold it was thicker? The 0W30 you describe using (and all standard motor oils are multi grade) behaves like a thin oil when cold and a thick oil when hot.  The viscosity is measured and basically 0 means it has a flow rate of water when cold, and thicker when hot. I have been a fan of Mobil1 0w40 on my Saab diesel, any recommendations for Skoda? 

[smokinmonkey]

On 19/08/2019 at 16:32, VRS_White_Hatch said:

On some cars I've had you have to fit either a new sump plug or sump plug washer after an oil change. Does Skoda require anything similar? 

 

On the subject of warming the car first I have always thought this, but I wonder if its just a legacy from oil years ago when in the cold it was thicker? The 0W30 you describe using (and all standard motor oils are multi grade) behaves like a thin oil when cold and a thick oil when hot.  The viscosity is measured and basically 0 means it has a flow rate of water when cold, and thicker when hot. I have been a fan of Mobil1 0w40 on my Saab diesel, any recommendations for Skoda? 

 

I THINK you only replace the washer if it's a copper washer. I only ever serviced my Land Rover Defender before this and the oil filters came with a new copper washer in a box. Don't know about other cars and models.

 

For oil I just went to my local motor factors and grabbed some "Comma XFlow" brand oil. Think it was £20 for 5L. I've no recommendations on oil, it'll be changed out a regular basis anyway.

[smokinmonkey]

This is oil I bought: https://www.amazon.co.uk/COMMA-XFP5L-X-Flow-Type-Liter/dp/B00DYTO5ZK/ 

 

Just checked the invoice and it was £25 from the local place.

[silver1011]

Great guide, thanks.

 

Be careful for future oil changes, the Coma oil you used doesn't appear to meet VAG's required VW 507.00 specification.

 

You can buy 5 litres of genuine VAG oil (Quantum Longlife III) online for the same price you paid.

 

This is from a franchised Skoda main dealer in Scotland...

 

 

Ideally the sump plug would be replaced too. They are less than £2 from Eurocarparts.

 

[Breezy_Pete]

On 19/08/2019 at 16:32, VRS_White_Hatch said:

On some cars I've had you have to fit either a new sump plug or sump plug washer after an oil change. Does Skoda require anything similar? 

 

On the subject of warming the car first I have always thought this, but I wonder if its just a legacy from oil years ago when in the cold it was thicker? The 0W30 you describe using (and all standard motor oils are multi grade) behaves like a thin oil when cold and a thick oil when hot.  The viscosity is measured and basically 0 means it has a flow rate of water when cold, and thicker when hot. I have been a fan of Mobil1 0w40 on my Saab diesel, any recommendations for Skoda? 

That's really not right about the oil getting thicker when hot. 

[Lord_Lucan]

Thanks for the post and pictures...very much appreciated. 

 

How much oil was drained from the oil filter when you undid it's drain plug?  Would it not be best to undo the sump drain plug first to get the majority of the oil out leaving a trickle or so to be drained from the oil filter drain plug? 

 

The reason I ask is that I'm about to do the oil change on my car this weekend and I want to minimise the chances of dropping lots of oil onto my driveway and when I've worked on other cars I've always drained the sump first and then the filter.  Thanks. 

[Lord_Lucan]

Just another update. Carried out the oil change on my car (2013 Octavia 2.0 tdi) and this guide was bob on.  Thanks very much. 

 

However I now have the "Service Now" message appearing each time I switch the ignition on or off.  I've managed to reset the oil service reminder by pressing the 0.0/SET button whilst turning the ignition on however I still see the "Service Now" and get the annoying bong. I've tried the same procedure but with the hazard lights on as shown in some youtube videos but no luck. 

 

I believe it's related to the Inspection reminder rather than the Oil chance reminder; Anyone know how to reset the inspection reminder to get rid of it? 

 

Thanks. 

[Wildman]

On 18/08/2019 at 14:29, smokinmonkey said:

This is a simple procedure that anyone can do as long as you have access to axle stands, ramps, car lift etc.

 

I'm writing this guide to pull together all the tools needed and steps required to carry this out. This was my first time and I spent more time going back and forth looking for sockets etc than actually doing the work!

 

Required:

• torx head screw driver (screws that hold plastic under tray)
• 14mm socket (bolts that the under tray) 1/2" drive preferred
• 13mm socket (drain nut on oil filter housing) <<< this might actually be 12mm, I'm going by memory. But you need to use a 1/4" drive, 1/2" socket in same size doesn't fit.
• 32mm socket (to open the actual filter housing) 1/2" drive required
• 19mm socket (to open the drain plug on the sump) 1/2" drive
• 1/2" and 1/4" extender bars (to reach the oil filter housing)
• New oil (I used 5w30 fully synthetic)
• Oil filter
• Container to catch old oil (minimum 5L in size).
• Funnel for container (I used a wide mouthed bucket to catch mine so didn't need a funnel)
• Old clothes / overalls (the oil WILL splash no matter how careful your are)

 

Optional:

• cable ties to hold back wires and pipes
• cardboard or sheets to catch oil spills
• rubber or latex gloves
• kitchen roll/blue roll
• Small hook or pick set (like this: https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/garage-essentials/rolson-4-piece-pick-hook-set)
• Scissors

 

Step 1. Get the car raised up. I used a set of ramps. If the car is cold, let it run for a few minute to heat the oil a little. This will make it flow out faster.

 

 

 

Step 2. Remove the under tray.

 

Get underneath with your torx screwdriver. The plastic under tray has 3 bolts at the bottom (towards the middle of the car), and 4 at the top (towards the front of the car, 2 on left and 2 on the right).

 

The torx screws are located along the side of the tray (3 on each side) and 3 along the top (between the 2 sets of bolts on left and right). 9 screws in total. Mine had less as some must have been lost during previous work.

 

Set the screws safely aside and grab your ratchet and 14mm socket. First, loosen all the bolts and then proceed to remove them. When you're down to the final 2 bolts, use your arm to press up against the weight of the tray, otherwise it might fall and possibly snap at the last bolt or might just hit you instead. Set the bolts aside for later.

 

Step 3. Replace the oil filter.

 

The oil filter is located towards the front of the engine, just behind the fan. Look up from underneath and you should see this:

 

 

I used cable ties to pull the wires and rubber pipe out of the way so I could get better access.

 

Then I grabbed my 1/4" ratchet, extender bar and the 12mm or 13mm socket. Put down your cardboard or rags and grab your oil collection container. Open up the small drain bolt in the center and catch all the oil that comes out.

 

Next grab your 1/2" ratchet, extender bar and 32mm socket. Open up the oil filter casing, catch the oil and then pull out the old filter.

 

Your new filter should have 2 rubber rings, one tiny and one large. The tiny one is to replace the ring on the drain plug, and the large one replaces the ring on the filter housing. Do this now, and use some kitchen roll to clean them up a bit, especially the treads etc.

 

I couldn't get the old rubber rings off, so had to use a small hook tool to grab underneath.

 

Insert your new filter into the housing, then replace the drain plug on the housing. Now screw the housing on using your hand, tighten with the 32mm socket. I didn't use a torque wrench, just went until it was lightly tightened.

 

IMPORTANT: If you used cable ties to hold back wires and pipes, grab some scissors and cut the cables ties now. I forgot, finished the job and replaced the under tray and then had to take it off again! The cable ties / wires etc could possibly foul the radiator fan and cause some trouble.

 

Step 4. Drain the old oil

 

Pop your bonnet and open the oil filler cap.

 

Grab your cardboard or rags, 1/2" ratchet, 19mm socket, and container for the old oil, slide back towards the middle of the car to find the sump and drain plug. You should this:

 

 

Loosen the bolt with the socket and then open it the rest of the way by hand, have your container ready as this is gonna fly out fast.

 

Once all the oil has drained, replace the sump bolt and tighten with the ratchet (not super tight!)

 

Dispose of the waste oil at your local recycling center.

 

Step 5. Replace the under tray and fill with new oil.

 

I put the bolts in first, by hand and then tightened them up with the 14mm socket. Then put the screws back in.

 

Now fill up with new oil. I think the 2.0L Octavia TDI takes 4.6L of oil, but don't quote me on that. I bought a 5L of oil, filled it with 4L, let it sit for a few minutes and checked the dip stick, then topped up a little, let it sit, checked the dip stick again.

 

I think I used just under 4.5L.

 

Don't forget to replace the oil filler cap once you've filled it with new oil.

 

 

 

And you're done! Put away the tools, get the car off the ramps / axle stands / whatever and get cleaned up. If I've missed anything out or made any grave mistakes, let me know. I changed my oil and filter yesterday. Was going to do the fuel filter too but had got the wrong one. Will get it changed next week.

 

[Wildman]

On 18/08/2019 at 14:29, smokinmonkey said:

Hi There, thanks for posting this.  I paid my local garage 16.80 quid for a filter, 48 quid for the engine oil, and 60quid for labour. 124.80 in total.  I always used to do the oil changes myself and will start doing so again.  A couple of questions if you have time.  What is the filter part number I need for the oil filter? Is it: OEN 98432642? Any tips on brand.  How do you get the onboard computer (ECU?) to accept you've done an oil change?

 

Hi There, thanks for posting this.  I paid my local garage 16.80 quid for a filter, 48 quid for the engine oil, and 60quid for labour. 124.80 in total.  I always used to do the oil changes myself and will start doing so again.  A couple of questions if you have time.  What is the filter part number I need for the oil filter? Is it: OEN 98432642? Any tips on brand.  How do you get the onboard computer (ECU?) to accept you've done an oil change?

[smokinmonkey]

36 minutes ago, Wildman said:

 

Hi There, thanks for posting this.  I paid my local garage 16.80 quid for a filter, 48 quid for the engine oil, and 60quid for labour. 124.80 in total.  I always used to do the oil changes myself and will start doing so again.  A couple of questions if you have time.  What is the filter part number I need for the oil filter? Is it: OEN 98432642? Any tips on brand.  How do you get the onboard computer (ECU?) to accept you've done an oil change?

 

I bought this filter: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/7883369

 

• Manufacturer part number:F 026 407 157
• Manufacturer:BOSCH
• EAN number:4047025337946

 

Your car could be different? Mine was a filter insert.

 

^^ unscrew 1 and 3, replace 2, 4, and 5

[smokinmonkey]

On 07/02/2020 at 14:13, Lord_Lucan said:

Just another update. Carried out the oil change on my car (2013 Octavia 2.0 tdi) and this guide was bob on.  Thanks very much. 

 

However I now have the "Service Now" message appearing each time I switch the ignition on or off.  I've managed to reset the oil service reminder by pressing the 0.0/SET button whilst turning the ignition on however I still see the "Service Now" and get the annoying bong. I've tried the same procedure but with the hazard lights on as shown in some youtube videos but no luck. 

 

I believe it's related to the Inspection reminder rather than the Oil chance reminder; Anyone know how to reset the inspection reminder to get rid of it? 

 

Thanks. 

 

49 minutes ago, Wildman said:

 

Hi There, thanks for posting this.  I paid my local garage 16.80 quid for a filter, 48 quid for the engine oil, and 60quid for labour. 124.80 in total.  I always used to do the oil changes myself and will start doing so again.  A couple of questions if you have time.  What is the filter part number I need for the oil filter? Is it: OEN 98432642? Any tips on brand.  How do you get the onboard computer (ECU?) to accept you've done an oil change?

 

 I followed this video to reset the service reminders: 

 

[Wildman]

On 20/08/2019 at 17:57, smokinmonkey said:

This is oil I bought: https://www.amazon.co.uk/COMMA-XFP5L-X-Flow-Type-Liter/dp/B00DYTO5ZK/ 

 

Just checked the invoice and it was £25 from the local place.

Thanks for that - appreciated.  I was given a Skoda/VW part number: 03N 115 562

[smokinmonkey]

3 minutes ago, Wildman said:

Thanks for that - appreciated.  I was given a Skoda/VW part number: 03N 115 562

 

Yes that brings up the correct type of filter. The bosch I got is on this page: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/03n115562

[fr1nklyn]

Sorry for reviving the old thread - did the oul change and filter today, the filter is real pain.. I tried to tie the cables on one side, but couldn’t remove the filter cap. The tried the other side, and finally removed the cap and then the filter.

I had to put the filter first and then the cap. I know that they should be attached to each other before putting them on place, but just couldn’t do it…. Not sure how I did it last time.

 

Anyway, just wanted to thanks for the great thread and explanation 😀