5 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

No, but the excess coolant will eventually exit to atmosphere as steam through the cap of the reservoir.

Less coolant could potentially create issues as described by you.

depends on temperature reached plus quality of cap but it indeed will

@RicardoM : i bought and installed a new reservoir because the original was a little bit ''brown'' after so many years of use and it wasn't easy to see the level of the coolant.

As my mind turns back after so many things changed in the coolant system but no Air Bleeding method applied, i asked a mechanic and said ''no needed, it makes it by himself'' but i didn't agreed.

 

No matter if in the past i squeezed the main hose and loose slowly the cap so the air will come out i think it's time for something better.

 

Cooling System Bleeding: All Vw Audi Cars

 

 

Isn't a good method to make the air bubbles to removed to the plastic reservoir tank?

 

29 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

i asked a mechanic and said ''no needed, it makes it by himself'' but i didn't agreed.

He is wrong, you are right. Each car has its own air bleeding method. See below for Felicia.

22 hours ago, RicardoM said:

These illustrations should answer to your question.

 

it is necessary to take the cabin heater clogged seriously

I removed the heater

I tied up the hoses

the vehicle now turns the fan on less and it cools faster

I learn something new everyday 😃

 

10 hours ago, RicardoM said:

He is wrong, you are right. Each car has its own air bleeding method. See below for Felicia.

 

 

Thank you for the suggestions.

Squeezing the main hose or the small hose before the thermostat it helps (to transfer the air bubbles to the expansion tank) or not?

 

On the other hand while searching for 6U0919501 B coolant sensor (the link was chosen by random)

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/coolant-temperature-sensor-10653/skoda/felicia/felicia-ii-6u1/11193-1-3

the Felicia owner sees some with yellow ring and some others with blue, some say 150 'c some 140'c and few they didn't say anything

is there a difference between them or anyone can to the job?

Are they as the radiator fan switches which have a specific operating range (70-75, 80-85 etc) which matters or not?

7 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Squeezing the main hose or the small hose before the thermostat it helps (to transfer the air bubbles to the expansion tank) or not?

It does not. The air will stay in the highest point, under the coolant sensor.

7 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

is there a difference between them or anyone can to the job?

They have different temperature/resistance characteristic and should be paired with a matching temperature gauge on the dashboard.

4 hours ago, RicardoM said:

It does not. The air will stay in the highest point, under the coolant sensor.

 

They have different temperature/resistance characteristic and should be paired with a matching temperature gauge on the dashboard.

 

That's logic according to Physics

i saw another video with a ''pumping air'' device but to be honest i find it a little bit sloppy.

 

 

 

As for the second part when you go a dealer or searching in a e-store looking for ''6U0919501 B coolant sensor'' i can not imagine how you will buy the proper one.

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0919501b-double-temperature-sensor-skoda-22788.html

Many times no info at all in the description.

6 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

As for the second part when you go a dealer or searching in a e-store looking for ''6U0919501 B coolant sensor'' i can not imagine how you will buy the proper one.

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0919501b-double-temperature-sensor-skoda-22788.html

Many times no info at all in the description.

Welcome to the club! This means we have the same problem.

I found something relative and i want to ask you: do you believe that a Coolant Cooler from aluminium would help our coolant system?

Would make the temperature of coolant to drop a little bit by transfer some heat from it to the atmosphere?

IMO the 'coolant cooler' 😀 is another marketing BS. In order to transfer enough heat by radiation, there has to be a significant temperature difference between the cooler and atmosphere. Sadly, in the engine bay the air temperature is very high too, so no cooling will take place.

I suggest a bigger radiator for Felicia with A/C if your car has not one already.

Any hits I got for a "coolant cooler" were actually for water-air radiators, or for a water-water intercooler. Neither looked like your photos/

17 hours ago, KenONeill said:

Any hits I got for a "coolant cooler" were actually for water-air radiators, or for a water-water intercooler. Neither looked like your photos/

 

STR8 Flow Cooler/ Radiator

https://www.pedparts.co.uk/product/723/str8-flow-cooler-radiator

 

https://www.scooter-attack.com/str8-flow-cooler-round-619974-a-str8echangeurdeau-39.html

 

https://www.maxiscoot.com/str8-flow-cooler-round-str-500-95-cr-3.html

 

Losing Your Cool: 9 Cooling System Myths and Mistakes — and Why to Avoid Them!

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/07/21/9-cooling-system-myths-and-mistakes-and-why-to-avoid-them/

Check the No 8 photo from the slide-photos in the end, it's the 1st photo of my post and the text below are from them.

Unfortunately their diameter is small (are mainly for motorcycles-scooters) so i don't think will fit in our car.

 

20 hours ago, RicardoM said:

IMO the 'coolant cooler' 😀 is another marketing BS. In order to transfer enough heat by radiation, there has to be a significant temperature difference between the cooler and atmosphere. Sadly, in the engine bay the air temperature is very high too, so no cooling will take place.

 

I suggest a bigger radiator for Felicia with A/C if your car has not one already.

 

Thanks for the info.

I don't know if a bigger radiator will fit (technically i can not take the risk to buy from another model without to be sure if will work) but i have installed a Bosch radiator fan and yes my GLX has a/c.

7 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I don't know if a bigger radiator will fit

On the generality, there's more than one sort of "bigger radiator". As well as ones offering a larger surface area (x by y units wide/tall) there are some that offer an extra row of cooling gills whilst maintaining the original surface area, and they often slot straight in for transverse engine installations.

@D.FYLAKTOS

You are overthinking the cooling system. Only if the engine is overheating under moderate load you should worry.

On 25/02/2020 at 10:55, KenONeill said:

On the generality, there's more than one sort of "bigger radiator". As well as ones offering a larger surface area (x by y units wide/tall) there are some that offer an extra row of cooling gills whilst maintaining the original surface area, and they often slot straight in for transverse engine installations.

 

The ''turbo guys'' here work on this matter, they install better quality or larger radiators aftermarket or hand made like this

 

but i don't think that worth the cost to make something for a Felicia.

 

23 hours ago, RicardoM said:

@D.FYLAKTOS

You are overthinking the cooling system. Only if the engine is overheating under moderate load you should worry.

 

In few months we will have hot weather here, the idea that suddenly (and without knowing the reason) i will have a temporary overheating before the thermostat does not pleases me at all.

Now let's say that it has some cold but in the summer for few seconds i will have hot air in the cabin and a crazy needle on the gauge,i am not sure that hoses etc will be happy.

1 minute ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

but in the summer for few seconds i will have hot air in the cabin and a crazy needle on the gauge

Well, if that is a tragedy...

I say dont worry about this hysterisis

I visited my previous mechanic which changed my (broken) thermostat and i discovered something,he confess that when his assistance removed the old thermostat one part of it was ''gone''

i got angry ''why you didn't told me this before?'' and he said ''no problem,it's far away from the pump and this piece it will be somewhere in the cylinder block''.

 

I returned home,opened the bag that i had in my cabinet with the spare parts and i took a picture,you can see that the central axon is missing !

That piece can cause any trouble? Maybe is blocking a little bit something?

 

 

On 26/02/2020 at 11:36, RicardoM said:

Well, if that is a tragedy...

 

Two times (at least) the day when that middle comes crazy for few seconds even when the heater is Off a bad smell comes in the cabin like coolant which dropped in hot surface

my wife is complaining ''something bad smells, what's burning?'' and to be honest i can not live with the idea that at least 2 times per day i will have to endure this.

 

Every time i had to open the window for few seconds so that bad smell will go away,yes there are far more important problems in the World but i can not compromise with the idea of that bad smell without knowing WHY this happens.

Mine also had a piece of it broken off but it stayed in the housing. 

If it anywhere to be found that would be on top of the rad. 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

when his assistance removed the old thermostat one part of it was ''gone''

I've heard of this sort of problem happening before. In principle, the broken bit(s) should have gone along the top radiator hose and be someplace in that or in the header tank. It would be worth taking off (at both ends yes) and reverse flushing the top hose.

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

Two times (at least) the day when that middle comes crazy for few seconds even when the heater is Off a bad smell comes in the cabin like coolant which dropped in hot surface

my wife is complaining ''something bad smells, what's burning?'' and to be honest i can not live with the idea that at least 2 times per day i will have to endure this.

 

Every time i had to open the window for few seconds so that bad smell will go away,yes there are far more important problems in the World but i can not compromise with the idea of that bad smell without knowing WHY this happens.

Which of the solutions I came with did you apply to your car ?

On 27/02/2020 at 13:21, KenONeill said:

I've heard of this sort of problem happening before. In principle, the broken bit(s) should have gone along the top radiator hose and be someplace in that or in the header tank. It would be worth taking off (at both ends yes) and reverse flushing the top hose.

 

It's in my schedule to do a flushing in the whole system.

 

On 27/02/2020 at 13:50, RicardoM said:

Which of the solutions I came with did you apply to your car ?

 

I have some news:

1) a piece of wire from a DIY Ground Kit became loose and start touching cylinder block which means at least bad smell when the engine was hot

2) a piece of plastic spiral has been felt and stack on the Lamda sensor's bolt which means when the exhaust has hot i had bad smell

3) after checking again and again my notes i found a huge mistake, my coolant mix from the previous work was wrong which means i had too much antifreeze and less water than it must.

I make a correction and the next moment the needle stopped to climb so hi and the movement was more smooth although the problem didn't vanished.

4) I went to a famous VAG parts store and the manager made an observation to me for the latest thermostat purchase,he insist that the ''older'' design was what the Felicia needed and not the ''newer'' !

 

So my next moves are:

abrasion in the end of the exhaust manifold for any residues

install a new thermostat same design as it had when i bought it

measure the coolant mix if needed a more dilution with distilled water

removing the air from the system and make a final test on the road.

Looking at the diagram that RicardoM posted, it looks like what is happening is just normal operation. As the engine warms, the temp gauge sensor (which is on the engine block side of the cooling system)  makes the gauge read higher and higher until it reaches 93C.  At this point, the thermostat opens and coolant begins to flow through the system.  If you look at the diagram, notice that the coolant from the radiator side enters the engine block on the opposite end from the temp gauge sensor. It will take a little while for this cooler coolant to reach the sensor (especially at idle), and when it does the reading on the gauge will drop suddenly and then rise slowly as the system temp stabilizes. Because the fan thermo-switch is located at the radiator outlet (which is always the coolest point in the system) the fan won't start until the coolant temp stabilizes. 

I don't believe that you really have a problem.

 

- JAMES

Edited 2 March, 20206 yr by JAMES399

7 hours ago, JAMES399 said:

At this point, the thermostat opens and coolant begins to flow through the system.

One slight correction. The thermostat starts to open. I mean it is a gradual process.

The rest is OK.