Hello all!

 

This is my very first post on here and also my first ever Skoda  

 

I have bagged an amazing 2011 Mk2 Fabia vRS which only had 1 previous owner (an old boy that only covered 36k miles!)

 

Now I have a 1 year VW warranty so will be doing a stage 2 when this expires, in the meantime I will be addressing the... shall we say... interesting choice of wheel and roof colour? I will be wrapping the roof black and respraying the wheels gun metal.

 

For my shopping list of stage 2 performance modifications, this is how far I have got (appreciate any input or advice):

 

Induction kit - undecided on whether to go for Forge, ITG or go custom with a BMC CDA filter and link up the pipes to the cold feed myself.

Exhaust - looking to do a custom system and have the muffler mounted in the middle of the diffuser (rather than the left). Have been provided with 3 options from Longlife, again not sure which option to go for (all 2.75" bore and utilising the existing mandrel bends):

• Cat-back system (£629)
• Downpipe, flexi & 200 cell sports cat (£599)
• Cat-back with no centre box (£529)

Intercooler - bit stuck here, have seen the forge intercooler has been discontinued and the only other one I can find is the Airtec which is in the £400s! 

Remap - will be going to Avon Tuning for them to do a custom stage 2 remap (after the above mods are fitted) along with a DSG remap. They are bloody good at what they do!

 

After all this I will look into finishing off the exterior looks:

 

Lights - have found a few smoked LED taillights about for the Mk2, however struggling to find some decent LED headlights? 

Badges - going for the classic matt black badge look

Front splitter - https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/233494941976

Side skirts - https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/233497916423

Front grill - any advice on something that looks a bit nicer?

@Burnzy001

Enjoy the car.

Remember some old guys have low mileage Fabia Twinchargers because they only use them for the odd meet up and maybe to the RWYB at weekends so only doing a few 1/4 miles at a time to blow out the smoke.

This is not your new car, just the same colourway.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/221248-vrs-powereds-skoda-vrs-tsi-tmc-itg-2116-bhp

 

Before doing your mods i would get it on a Dyno and see what power it is putting out and this gives you a base line and lets you see if it looks like it is not already remapped.

Check that it is the original engine and not replaced, if original has it had the Breather Mod and software up date.

Same with the DSG, has it had Service Campaign '34F7',  Oil changed from Synthetic to Mineral and a software update.

There should be a sticker in the Spare Tyre well if done.

http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions

 

Edited 25 February, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

27 minutes ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

@Burnzy001

Enjoy the car.

Remember some old guys have low mileage Fabia Twinchargers because they only use them for the odd meet up and maybe to the RWYB at weekends so only doing a few 1/4 miles at a time to blow out the smoke.

This is not your new car, just the same colourway.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/221248-vrs-powereds-skoda-vrs-tsi-tmc-itg-2116-bhp

 

Before doing your mods i would get it on a Dyno and see what power it is putting out and this gives you a base line and lets you see if it looks like it is not already remapped.

Check that it is the original engine and not replaced, if original has it had the Breather Mod and software up date.

Same with the DSG, has it had Service Campaign '34F7',  Oil changed from Synthetic to Mineral and a software update.

There should be a sticker in the Spare Tyre well if done.

http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions

 

 

Thanks! Yeah I had a check to see what was coming out the exhaust (no signs of bad smoke indicating engine ware). It is from a VW dealer and has been fully checked/approved by them so should be completely stock, if any issues (like the common ones with CAVE) I will ensure I find out before I mod anything and during the warranty. 

 

Good shout on the Dyno and other bits, due to pick up and pay for the car this Saturday so will ask all those questions beforehand.

Just so you know.  Black soot on the exhaust tips and blowing soot is not a problem with a CAVE engine.

Running rich when cold is OK, and soot in the exhaust when running super unleaded and blowing it out when up to temp and getting booted.

 

Running lean is the problem. 

 

Check when the spark plugs were replaced, if no record best do them.

 

Just so you know.  Being fully checked and approved by a VW, SEAT, Audi or Skoda dealer means nothing.

I can lead you to threads where right after that was done an engine failed.  They are the ones least in the know about known issues.

At least you have that Warranty, be sure not to void it.  Even though they give it, then they can reject it and say 'Known Issues'.

 

EDIT 

PS.

@ 9 years old now even with a low mileage best budget for replacing the water pump and 2 rubber belts.

If the water pump goes then try claiming on the Warranty.  Some Master Techs support the claim and some do not.

Edited 25 February, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

2 hours ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

Just so you know.  Black soot on the exhaust tips and blowing soot is not a problem with a CAVE engine.

Running rich when cold is OK, and soot in the exhaust when running super unleaded and blowing it out when up to temp and getting booted.

 

Running lean is the problem. 

 

Check when the spark plugs were replaced, if no record best do them.

 

Just so you know.  Being fully checked and approved by a VW, SEAT, Audi or Skoda dealer means nothing.

I can lead you to threads where right after that was done an engine failed.  They are the ones least in the know about known issues.

At least you have that Warranty, be sure not to void it.  Even though they give it, then they can reject it and say 'Known Issues'.

 

EDIT 

PS.

@ 9 years old now even with a low mileage best budget for replacing the water pump and 2 rubber belts.

If the water pump goes then try claiming on the Warranty.  Some Master Techs support the claim and some do not.

 

Thanks again for the advice, understand that the checks may mean nothing in the end, but like you said the warranty should hopefully cover me.

 

I won't touch the car until I am 100% happy! Is it worth taking to a specialist to review while its under warranty? I guess I have a 30 day and 1,000 return so should be able to tell if there are any issues (like an oil thirsty engine).

My advice is really touch nothing.   (if you know somebody that can read fault codes i would do that.)

 

Set your tyre pressures and TPMS. 

Use 99 ron, preferably Tesco Momentum 99.

Check the coolant level cold. use a freezer marker and mark the level.

Dip the oil stone cold on the flat, see where it is.

After at least a 10 mile drive and oil at 80*oC, to 90*oC or at the end of a trip check it at Operating temp after being stopped 4-5 minutes.

 

Then to be sure the car behaves try to usually get the cars oil to above an indicated 50*oC before booting it, better up to near 90*oC before thrashing it, 

then use it as suits you and be sure it runs fine, no misfires, no hic-ups, and the cold oil level stays where it is now.

 

If the slightest worry about it get it back into the Dealership.

 

I hope there are new spark plugs in it, but do not go checking, the VW Tech gave it a clean bill of health. 

Lets hope no Fault Codes on it now.

21 hours ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

My advice is really touch nothing.   (if you know somebody that can read fault codes i would do that.)

 

Set your tyre pressures and TPMS. 

Use 99 ron, preferably Tesco Momentum 99.

Check the coolant level cold. use a freezer marker and mark the level.

Dip the oil stone cold on the flat, see where it is.

After at least a 10 mile drive and oil at 80*oC, to 90*oC or at the end of a trip check it at Operating temp after being stopped 4-5 minutes.

 

Then to be sure the car behaves try to usually get the cars oil to above an indicated 50*oC before booting it, better up to near 90*oC before thrashing it, 

then use it as suits you and be sure it runs fine, no misfires, no hic-ups, and the cold oil level stays where it is now.

 

If the slightest worry about it get it back into the Dealership.

 

I hope there are new spark plugs in it, but do not go checking, the VW Tech gave it a clean bill of health. 

Lets hope no Fault Codes on it now.

Good news! Confirmed from the history that the car had x2 service recalls to Skoda so likely the breather mod & DSG updates. The dealer will confirm the details of work done when they have the car out the MOT centre, however that sounds pretty promising.

Good and bad news.  Sorry.

The Breather mod would only get done if someone reported high oil use.

So checked that Warranty & Service History.  See if oil consumptions tests were done early in life of the car.

 

There were other service campaigns for some cars, like  wiring loom, and heated seats.  

 

 

Edited 26 February, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

7 minutes ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

Good and bad news.  Sorry.

The Breather mod would only get done if someone reported high oil use.

So checked that Warranty & Service History.  See if oil consumptions tests were done early in life of the car.

 

There were other service campaigns for some cars, like  wiring loom, and heated seats.  

 

 

 

No its best to be realistic! We don't know what the 2 recalls were for, this was just basic history check the dealer ran through with me. Like you said I will have to see what the history says, I guess the best outcome I are looking for is the DSG update was done and ideally no issues of oil consumption (and therefore no breather fix required)

Hopefully all is well.

Just be aware that nannied twinchargers are not always the best.

As long as the engine is OK a bit extra oil use can be from VW504 / 507 so 5w 30 FS III being used at Dealership Services.

5w 40 FS to VW 502 is far better IMO & IME with 99 octane petrol.

Then when the spark plugs get changed do not use the NGK  OEM plugs.

 

Just be sure all is well then a re-map can be the best thing you do.  Just not a REVO remap on a Twincharger.

On 26/02/2020 at 14:18, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

Hopefully all is well.

Just be aware that nannied twinchargers are not always the best.

As long as the engine is OK a bit extra oil use can be from VW504 / 507 so 5w 30 FS III being used at Dealership Services.

5w 40 FS to VW 502 is far better IMO & IME with 99 octane petrol.

Then when the spark plugs get changed do not use the NGK  OEM plugs.

 

Just be sure all is well then a re-map can be the best thing you do.  Just not a REVO remap on a Twincharger.

 

500 miles in -  oil temps good, no misfires or issues, MPG is great (48 on motorway) and no drop in oil level. 

 

Only issue is the engine 'wobbles' slightly on startup when car is idle (just below 1k revs). It goes away after driving but have seen this can be a common thing in this engine?

Some say common, but really when the rpm starts at 1,100 and drops in less than 40 seconds it should be smooth.

Have you looked in the Air Box yet and checked the Air Filter is clean?

You still need to see if the spark plugs are all nice and the gap is correct, if you have not done yet.

 

 

On 12/03/2020 at 13:20, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

Some say common, but really when the rpm starts at 1,100 and drops in less than 40 seconds it should be smooth.

Have you looked in the Air Box yet and checked the Air Filter is clean?

You still need to see if the spark plugs are all nice and the gap is correct, if you have not done yet.

 

 

 

I am replacing the air filter with a cold feed induction kit tomorrow so will check the airfilter. 

 

Spark plugs wise I bought some Denso SKJ20CR-A8's as per the guideance on a few other forms. I have attached an image of the old plugs - don't look too bad? No idea how old they are.

Not bad, running a bit rich if you had the car for a good up to temp run before changing the plugs.

Is the 4th plug just the same.

 

I would check the gap on those plugs. They look like they could be more then 0.7mm.

 

What was the gap the new plugs went in at?

26 minutes ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

Not bad, running a bit rich if you had the car for a good up to temp run before changing the plugs.

Is the 4th plug just the same.

 

I would check the gap on those plugs. They look like they could be more then 0.7mm.

 

What was the gap the new plugs went in at?

 

That was pretty much cold before changing. Don't have the tool to check them but here is the gap info of the new ones (bought them specified to fit the engine) car runs perfrectly with no missfires, if anything feels a little tighter 

• Thread Ø: 14mm
• Thread Reach: 19.0mm
• Hex Size:16.0mm
• Heat Range: 20
• Plug Type: 0.7mm Iridium; projected
• Gap Configuration: Increased platinum
• Spark Gap: .8mm
• Resistor Built In: Yes
• Additional: Electrode position 5.0mm

Roof and grill wrapped gloss black - looking much nicer! Going in for a powder coat on the alloys tomorrow

Wheels resprayed - all coming together now!

On 25/02/2020 at 16:31, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

My advice is really touch nothing.   (if you know somebody that can read fault codes i would do that.)

 

Set your tyre pressures and TPMS. 

Use 99 ron, preferably Tesco Momentum 99.

Check the coolant level cold. use a freezer marker and mark the level.

Dip the oil stone cold on the flat, see where it is.

After at least a 10 mile drive and oil at 80*oC, to 90*oC or at the end of a trip check it at Operating temp after being stopped 4-5 minutes.

 

Then to be sure the car behaves try to usually get the cars oil to above an indicated 50*oC before booting it, better up to near 90*oC before thrashing it, 

then use it as suits you and be sure it runs fine, no misfires, no hic-ups, and the cold oil level stays where it is now.

 

If the slightest worry about it get it back into the Dealership.

 

I hope there are new spark plugs in it, but do not go checking, the VW Tech gave it a clean bill of health. 

Lets hope no Fault Codes on it now.

 

Hi again! So checked my oil levels again, 700 miles in and this is what the dipstick is showing (after your guidance of letting it heat up first then leaving it about 5 mins)

Looks like roughly 1.2 litres used (mostly motorway miles, not really been thrashing it either) so guessing that would be classed as overconsumption? 

Top the oil up when cold to just above the cross hatch area.  See how much oil you need to put in.

 

That is not 1.2 Litres used if the Oil was at the correct level to start with.

The oil capacity is 3.6 litres.  The oil can be 1.3 litres low and no Low oil or Low oil Pressure Warning, 

that is when below the Cross Hatch Area. 

 

My advice is that stone cold and not started the oil should be on that flat bit above the cross hatch.

If you do not even get in the car, just put the key in, start the car and then stop it right away and dip it, the oil should be at the top of the cross hatch.

That is a quick check that the oil is at around 3.6-3.9 litres.

 

Then after a drive of over 5 miles, maybe even 10 and the oil is showing between 80-90*oC and you check it after stopping on the flat and after a few minutes that is the same level.

 

Using oil on short trips, cold starts etc is not a major issue.  If doing longer trips and using oil is an excessive oil user.

Be sure there is enough oil in at the start of doing checks.  

That means the oil up in section A as per the Manual.  

 

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

The Dip sticks are crap and the Owners Manual diagrams. 

*With only 3.6 litres of oil as the official capacity you do not want to start with not enough oil.*

Personally 3.9 litres is what i put in at Oil & Filter Services to have the oil at operating temperature.  That is above the Cross Hatch area.

Edited 13 April, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

Usually it is 1litre of oil from min to max levels. I check oil when cold when the oil has drained from the oil galleries back into the sump. From the picture of that clean oil on the dipstick and the lack of oil on the spark plug threads that engine appears to be in good condition. Just enjoy it.

2 minutes ago, edbostan said:

Usually it is 1litre of oil from min to max levels. I check oil when cold when the oil has drained from the oil galleries back into the sump. From the picture of that clean oil on the dipstick and the lack of oil on the spark plug threads that engine appears to be in good condition. Just enjoy it.

 

I thought it was in good condition! Thanks 

16 minutes ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

Top the oil up when cold to just above the cross hatch area.  See how much oil you need to put in.

 

That is not 1.2 Litres used if the Oil was at the correct level to start with.

The oil capacity is 3.6 litres.  The oil can be 1.3 litres low and no Low oil or Low oil Pressure Warning, 

that is when below the Cross Hatch Area. 

 

My advice is that stone cold and not started the oil should be on that flat bit above the cross hatch.

If you do not even get in the car, just put the key in, start the car and then stop it right away and dip it, the oil should be at the top of the cross hatch.

That is a quick check that the oil is at around 3.6-3.9 litres.

 

Then after a drive of over 5 miles, maybe even 10 and the oil is showing between 80-90*oC and you check it after stopping on the flat and after a few minutes that is the same level.

 

Using oil on short trips, cold starts etc is not a major issue.  If doing longer trips and using oil is an excessive oil user.

Be sure there is enough oil in at the start of doing checks.  

That means the oil up in section A as per the Manual.  

 

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

The Dip sticks are crap and the Owners Manual diagrams. 

*With only 3.6 litres of oil as the official capacity you do not want to start with not enough oil.*

Personally 3.9 litres is what i put in at Oil & Filter Services to have the oil at operating temperature.  That is above the Cross Hatch area.

 

Thanks again, I will keep an eye on it this way but seems like is working well

The issue with someone saying 'Usually 1 litre between Min to Max'   is.

 

The same dipstick and different sumps and oil capacities of 3.2, 3.6, 3.9, 4.2 and even 4.6 litre capacities.

 

Even 1.2 TSI's had 3.6 litre capacity then changed to 3.9 litres and many Techs got that wrong. 

 Plenty with 1.4 TSI's just put in 4 litres and no harm done. Actually this is fine IMO.

Enough oil and not too much in a Twincharger.

 

I still swear by using VW502 so 5w 40 Full Synthetic and not VW504 so 5w 30 FS III Long life in a Twincharger. 

& give the engine a good thrashing regularly when up to temp to stop rings gumming up.

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/461244-help-a-new-2011-vrs-owner/page/4/

 

Edited 13 April, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

On 13/04/2020 at 12:31, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

The issue with someone saying 'Usually 1 litre between Min to Max'   is.

 

The same dipstick and different sumps and oil capacities of 3.2, 3.6, 3.9, 4.2 and even 4.6 litre capacities.

 

Even 1.2 TSI's had 3.6 litre capacity then changed to 3.9 litres and many Techs got that wrong. 

 Plenty with 1.4 TSI's just put in 4 litres and no harm done. Actually this is fine IMO.

Enough oil and not too much in a Twincharger.

 

I still swear by using VW502 so 5w 40 Full Synthetic and not VW504 so 5w 30 FS III Long life in a Twincharger. 

& give the engine a good thrashing regularly when up to temp to stop rings gumming up.

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/461244-help-a-new-2011-vrs-owner/page/4/

 

 

This is it stone cold, then after turning on then off it is all the way down to the bottom of the dipper 

Edited 14 April, 20206 yr by Burnzy001

OK.  So the Zabozuma test was not a easy check. 

No matter though, you have enough oil.  Check again sometime when the oil is up to temp.

 

So acting different from other Twinchargers i test, but you maybe have a Silver VW/Audi Oil filter with the flap.

I never use those Filters, i use Black ones that do drip when you remove them.  Those are the same as the filters originally used.  I trust them.

Oil up to the head quick and drained again.

 

 

Edited 14 April, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

Forge induction kit fitted, feels lest restricted and without the OTT roar of an open cone.

 

Can't see why this kit has people badly reviewing it, brilliant quality and fits like a glove. Only potential upgrade would be widening the cold air intake port a little, or even adding in a bonnet scoop.